salokcinnodrog

Moved to Book Review section, cos when you have finished it you will write a review, then you will let me borrow it (permanently )

If it is Loam Ponds, then go to search facility, and type in Loam ponds, specify which section, click search all terms as I'm certain I posted the syndicate phone number on a thread, possibly the Suffolk Venues help and suggestions thread

I read Behind the Rods, and I have to say it was a book I wanted to finish. It took me 2 evenings from start to finish While it is a carp fishing related book, and those I will read, I don't think it will be a classic. Must admit though that the grammar is a lot better than many carp articles in the magazines.

If I could avoid the idiots then it would be Suffolk Water Park. Problem it is expensive compared to the cost of a Season ticket, and because of the numbers of Big fish it gets rammed most days, and unfortunately that includes a large number of numpties.

Also a few existing threads on here, some with tactics and the ways to fish it. All available from the search facility, click "search all terms", then use Catch22 as the criteria, with and without a space between catch and 22

Yare and Wensum Carp have definitely come out on boilies ...and bread, casters, sweetcorn and chick peas. I was putting boilies in in the old marina when they moved in to spawn (over 20 years ago ), so I'm pretty positive they recognise them. It is all going to be down to location and what you can find out, and some of that is going to have to be experimental fishing in various places

The bream move around in reasonable size shoals, the carp tend to stay as individuals, except for spawning time. Oh and I would suggest avoiding anything meaty as you have the bootlace eels, which although in decline, still love those maggots and casters in summer

For pop-ups I much prefer an out turned eye on the hook. With the pop-up being mounted close to the shank on a short hair, basically a hair but the same as the bait being shank mounted, I think the out turn offers a better presentation. When it comes down to bottom baits the current fashion for curved shanks seems to offer a good presentation sometimes without the need for a line aligner, although I do like the straight shank hooks if I can create the line aligner using tubing (either silicon or shrink). Certain waters have a need for different rigs, and in that, a different hook pattern. I still have a number of rigs tied up with Kamasan B175's, and I find that they are extremely good hookers as the inturned eye forces the hook to turn very quickly. The main use to me for an inturned point is when gravel and hook blunting is a problem. I think a lot of hook patterns and use is fashion (Tin Hat being fitted), and about what is written in magazines. If we all used the standard Drennan Super Specialists, (even with that nice bright finish), we would still hook and land fish.

You've not seen the Yare, very few fish for a massive area. The fish can get from the Wensum New Mills Yard in Norwich, down to the junction of the 2 rivers, and back up to the last Mill on the Yare to basically Great Yarmouth with nothing to stop them. The river itself is 10metres deep in places as there are occasional freight carrying ships going up and down it. While Whitlingham is just part of it, they don't always stay there, same as the bream, and boy did I try. You also have the pub downstream from Postwick/Trowse side, Bramerton Woods End where they have been known to show, but that used to be set aside for Water Skiers on certain times and days. Biggest I had was only double figures, and came from the Riverside Road stretch in the City (Wensum) by accident in the winter when I was fishing casters on the stick for Roach, but I have seen a lot bigger near The Compleat Angler (while I was having a drink waiting for a train). A boat will save you a lot of travelling and set-up time, and is invaluable for access to areas where parking near the bankside is limited. In fact only Norwich, Thorpe, Woods End, Griffin Marina and then down to Surlingham offer much bankside access. Also some carp have also been landed in the Yare matches down near Cantley near the Sugar Beet Factory, nothing massive on the tackle intended for bream and roach. The flow down there can be absolutely awesome when the tide turns.

I don't have any photos left, I lost a lot when my Mrs and I split up, and over time as all mine were on prints. Areas to search are around Thorpe St. Andrew in the old marina, by the New Cut, and by the New Cut entrances both ends, just downstream of the Railway bridge, Thorpe Green and Griffin Marina. Bream can be a problem, and the fish can just disappear, although the old marina on the island is one of the spawning areas. Access used to be through the Houses opposite the Girls High School, or by doing a naughty across the bridge from the bottom of Thorpe Road near the Council Offices.

Which part of Norfolk? Plenty in the area, let me know and I'll give some details on a number of fisheries

PLEASE, don't make comments like that. I can think of no end of double entendres to go with it, so I'll just hope the jokes blow over quietly When it comes to Snag fishing is this any use: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=28532

Ways to weigh down pop-ups. Shot on the line; I don't like, I worry about the possibility of the shot crimping and cutting the hooklink. A stop knot made from power gum and covered with putty; works well on plain braids and mono hooklinks. Putty moulded over the end of the coated braid "rip off end"; It works, but does slide off at times, even Heavy Metal or Gardner Critical Mass. Putty moulded over the hook eye, same as above. Fox, Korda, Solar Pop-up weights, Depth Charges etc; Nice idea, but a rip off for the name Carp at the start. Pole anglers Olivettes; Available with a hole through the middle, can be held in place with a small piece of Amnesia or other thick mono, or a version that has a piece of silicon tubing to hold in place at either end. Easy and one of my favoured ways of doing it, putty can also be added if required.

Don't assume you have to lose the lead on every take, thats the point. In a snag free lake you don't need to. Just make sure that whatever lead attachment you use that in the event of a snap off the fish is not trailing around a rig and lead, which is one of the reasons I hate lead clips; the swivel is so tight into the bottom of the clip it CAN'T come out, the clip has not been trimmed down, or the rubber is (accidentally) pushed too far onto the clip. I actually think that John Roberts Beads are better: For Running leads there are various manufacturers versions available, Fox, Solar, Gardner, Korda. All consist of a Run Ring that will slide up and down the mainline (or tubing), but they are basically a Run ring being stopped from running down to the hooklink by a buffer bead of some sort, so for once you don't need to buy components from one manufacturer to suit or fit perfectly.

I very rarely aim to lose the lead on a run, in fact unless I'm snag fishing I don't want to, and for that have a read of this: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=44282 Is this any use? Lead set-up thread: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=37603 Some rig pics: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=22185 To be honest I would still keep it as simple as possible, the majority of fish caught are caught on a basic knotless knotted or line aligner hook set up. It is down to our wish to play around in many cases that we confuse the issue, even if some of the rigs in the 3rd link are a little bit more confusing and I'm as guilty of that as anyone at times. Go to this section of the forum: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewforum.php?f=104 There are threads covering Lead set-ups, what hooklink material, hopefully just about everything you could wish for. The simplest way to tie just about every rig is with the knotless knot, you can tie it with baits on so you get the hair length right. If you wish, then you can add shrink or silicon tubing before you tie on your swivel or quicklink.

Welcome to the madhouse, Catch 22 can produce in Winter, but can be very localised and the fish can stay in particular areas on the lake. Taverham Mills also used to have a reasonable track record if you knew where the fish would hang out. Shallowbrook also used to have a reasonable reputation. Have a dig around for "Norfolk Waters" on the Search facility and specify UK Where to Fish, you will probably find a few more

Safe and usable Helicopter set-up Get a piece of hard tubing, 1bullet buffer bead, 2 soft rubber beads and a ring swivel or equivalents. I believe I have a pic or 2, from when I was playing with the idea Those hooks are something like 1995 patterns so you can see how long I have had an enquiring mind as to what I can play around with and ways to work things out The top bead being able to slide off the top of the body under minimal pressure means the rig swivel can also slide over any leader knot. Therefore as far as I'm concerned that means that you can fish an absolute Long Casting set-up safely with a Helicopter rig, or with a Running Lead. I remember posting on a thread a while ago about Helicopter rigs and I mentioned the JRC Helicopter beads, and there was also an alternative at the time in Cox and Rawle Beach Beads

Cambridgeshire, have a Look at Fenland Fisheries if you want Day Ticket. Its in Earith, about 20miles past Cambridge, turn off A14 at Bar Hill. You are also close to some Norfolk Waters around Thetford and the Watton area. I'm pretty positive that by keying in Cambridgeshire or Suffolk to the search facility then you will have a longer list

Are you looking for Season, Syndicate or Day Ticket?

I have been using Mo's for a while, and while fishing this weekend decided to tie up a few more rigs; the stuff I got from Mo worked a treat Just hold it in the steam from the kettle as I brewed up, piece of cake I always do this with the korda shrink tube and have never had any problems, works fine No, I'll leave that you are happy, large and bold enough to use Korda tackle, then I'll embarrass you with that comment later I'll also not tell you that you can edit your own posts and change the font size

Absolutely ages since Foxearth was mentioned http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=37837&highlight=foxearth I have no idea about current fish stocks since the death of at least 2 of the fish in there including the Biggest in the lakes that was found dead with otter marks on it. The link above has a link to the Foxearth website. I believe that Maggot may well be worthwhile though after a quick chat with a mate

I have been using Mo's for a while, and while fishing this weekend decided to tie up a few more rigs; the stuff I got from Mo worked a treat Just hold it in the steam from the kettle as I brewed up, piece of cake

You can hold the bend in before you put it into the steam, but I make sure that it "stays" by bending it as it comes out. The cold water is just a "quick-fix" instead of letting it cool naturally. Incidentally I think I may have tried Korda tubing and decided that I didn't like it

Firstly as said make sure you get Shrink tube, and get a good quality type! I've used Fox and ESP, and also gone into Electrical shops like Maplins to get Shrink tube, but now use Mo's Co (he has i-net shop or go through E-bay ). I boil the kettle with the rig and shrink tube in the spout, and you should see it shrink as it is in the steam and water vapour, then after is has shrunk, usually within a second or 2 bend it into the shape you want, then while holding this bend put it into cold water and it will stay in shape.

Dan, You know the reason I asked you've seen my set-ups and I feel comfortable using it, however I may well have been fishing in "dirtier" areas of the lake with more rubbish and debris on the bottom, although a few baits have been dropped on gravel features. I wonder if different tubing has different effects, and different smells. I have noticed that when I have used Armourtube on BP that I do get fewer runs, and that is gloss finished. The Solar tubing I use has a "silky", slightly textured feel, as opposed to a totally smooth feel. I wonder if this slight texture allows silt and other debris to settle on it, as opposed to the totally smooth finish (If you have problems seeing or imagining what I mean I mentioned the effect in Leads, Shapes and colours thread: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=22174 ). I also think that some tubing that we use, the plastic absolutely stinks, and that is definitely off putting to my nose, so I wonder if it does the same to carp? I seem to remember Jim Gibbinson commenting on this, and he would take his tubing out of the packaging and leave it for a few weeks before he used it. I take the tubing out of the Solar package (Running Rigs) and put it into a different bag mini bag as I keep all my tubing together. I also have a feeling that it takes out or reduces the vibration of the mainline if fished tight (telegraph/power line effect). I use tubing for the simple reason of using it to protect the mainline and reduce the effects of snag rubbing against mainline. I have landed a couple of fish on waters where the tubing has been rubbed and scraped over gravel, or snags and the tubing has actually been scratched and abraded, yet it has protected the mainline from being rubbed through. That is actually something that I DON'T think that leadcore does, I think that the braided outer of leadcore is more likely to snap and give than tubing, which because of its softness and smoothness (comparitive) doesn't bite into the snag or gravel. One thing I will say, I am confident in Tangle free rigs, my rig placement and with how I fish with tubing, so that in itself may be extra fish anyway