salokcinnodrog

Quite so! Different people prefer different patterns as well, so is this any use? Best Bottom bait hook FLB's are a great 'ook, very strong, you will not snap one of them, and the point is simply awesome. I will say though if you are fishing waters that are silty, and the fish have softer mouthes then they can cut a bit, so be very careful where and when you use them! I always thought it was spelt "Hiya"

Benji, Thank you. A very serious question with genuine concern I'm going to move this into UK Carp Fishing Stickies, it is a very important useful piece of advice. I'm pretty much with Levi on this, although I nearly always use forceps to grip the hook rather than one of the In-line disgorgers that he refers to. Thats a handy tip about the "smack" tap on the back of the hand. Can now legitimately get smacked wrists Grip the hook as tight as you can with forceps, and gently push out in the opposite direction to how it went in. Very few hooks actually stick, but one or two can be enough to make it a difficult job. If the hook point even comes out another hole from where it went in, I always gently push it out past the barb and snip the hook. The cost of a hook towards damaging a fish, the fish will win every time, I'll snip the hook. Final Point, a quick dose of Klinik, or other Hook treatment will always be a good idea The forceps and wire cutters should always be handy to where you unhook the fish, as close to your unhooking mat. I have my unhooking mat pegged next to the back of my bivvy, and attached to one of the guy tethers are my forceps and wire cutters.

Even my Loop knots get attached to a swivel. If you use a swivel and want to use a loop knot, then the knot in the Kryston packaging works with minimal loss of strength. Tie, but don't pull tight, an overhand knot where you want the loop to end, put swivel or link on, with tag end go down through the overhand knot and then go 4 times round the main piece of line and then back up through the overhand loop. Lubricate knot and gradually pull both ends to tighten. Never had one of them give way

I use a loop knot attached to the swivel with Amnesia and Combi rigs, and a Uni knot for Braid and coated braids. It is the movement issue that I figure on. A stiffer hooklink will not move as much as a more supple hooklink, so to allow that extra movement and confidence I work out what I need to achieve, that includes checking what sort of material I need for the hooklink.

I shall not put down the wicked thoughts I have about the brand then

Why not use enough Shrink tubing to go down the shank to hold the hair in place. Perfect when you have the hair coming off opposite the point. As for using Silicon tube, different silicon, different behaviour. If the stuff you gets splits, then use one that doesn't And why does it entail tying a new rig if it does split? Thread the tiny piece of tubing onto baiting needle, pull hair through tubing, and then thread over point being careful NOT to catch fibres if you use a braid hair. Simples!

Was it Richworth and Anchor who made the Leads with the attached Attractor capsules? I believe one of them also made a fizzing tablet

Local Lake this week. One swim, absolutely disgusting, Line, Leadcore leaders, rigs, broken glass, Beer Cans and bottles, the remains of fires in the swim. Just out of the swim, in almost every part of the undergrowth, and some plain ground, the whole area was covered in Human Excrement and that piece of Bog roll. Just over the road from the lake is a Picnic area with a Public Toilet For Gods sake, if you do get caught short on the bank, BAG IT OR BIN IT.

Have a read of this: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=9536 think we may have gone into rigs and rig length in this. Bear in mind you may well need to change the rig length dependant on what the fish are used to, the bottom make-up and what other people are doing. Even the distance you are casting may make some difference

Was reading a couple of other threads on rigs and thought that I could bring this one back to the fore for some more reading. Are your rigs catching? If yes then keep using them. If you start to find that results dry up then you may need to adapt, but bear in mind the effectiveness of your rigs can depend on how or what you feed, just by increasing the free bait may make them effective again. Have a read http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=37416 Carp picking up individual baits may need to have different rigs from those feeding over a bed of bait. It may be as simple as the length of the rig or the hair. I do know that when I use Pop-ups and Snowmen hookbaits I tend to "complicate" the issue as I prefer to use a D-rig set-up for them, don't ask why, a Confidence issue I guess

I was reading another thread and Levigsp came up with a great saying "if you cannot work out the mechanics of a ", this was referring to a particular set-up (actually 2) in relation to somebody's fishing. Here is an absolute confession for you: I DO NOT THINK ABOUT RIG MECHANICS! Totally strange totally weird, but is it as unusual as that? It may not be that unusual for a couple of reasons, people generally don't think about their fishing, or the other without thinking about it they have an understanding, do we go back to the Watercraft? I watch the Carp wherever possible to find out about the way they feed (suck and blow or pick up and eat), I check hookholds and where the hook has gone in to see if anything needs to be changed. I match Hooklink materials that I think will work best to the lakebed and I play about with how I put the hook on the line in relation to the best hooking potential. i.e. I'm currently preferring a Line Aligner over a standard Knotless. How much about Rig Mechanics is something that is thought about or is that also a "Natural"?

Went down to "my" lake today for a couple of hours and was absolutely appalled. I ended up with a number of Carrier Bags of rubbish that had been dropped. From Fishing line measuring tens of metres, Deadbait Packets, Trace Packets, sweetcorn tins, shoelaces cut in half, and a Pike Trace, complete with half a sprat. Add to that the other rubbish, paper etc I think it was 4or5 bags of rubbish picked up and binned. The sick part is that behind some of the swims are Rubbish bins. The rubbish had been dropped on the bank 2 metres away from them, looking like no attempt to bin it. Those who drop litter should be banned from every fishery in Britain, or even the world and should have their right to life revoked FOR HEAVENS SAKE, EVERY ANGLER, PUT YOUR RUBBISH IN THE BIN or even better TAKE IT HOME AND BIN IT

Still part of the English Course Work? Read it as part of my English Studies at school. An interesting book (and play) and after reading a bit spooky. How to make everyone in a family feel extremely guilty for their actions

The other thing about the lake is that this is the first year in a while that the water table has been up to its "normal" level. For a number of years we have had some very dry summers and winters, so the natural water level has been low, and the ground has soaked up the rain that we have had. As a result the extra precipitation from the past year or so, can't soak away into the ground, and the river can't be used to take out the excess as it is currently higher than the lake. Those swims that Bob has worked on are actually the right height for a normal water table, when the water is able to soak away as it should I've even taken my son into the swim right next to the outflow stream and was able to set-up right next to it with not even getting my trainers wet. Yet now I think I would need waders to get onto that swim (if the rushes haven't taken it back over yet) As for trees, I can remember a bailiff who was worried when he came into a swim where I had tied the branch back. He thought I had cut them down, was mighty relieved when I showed him the bailing twine.

The aerator gets has been a problem for ages, it gets repaired, and then a few years later it packs in again. It takes ages to make the parts for it I think that due to the site and the landowner the aerator is unable to be changed. As for the swims, they are under constant erosion. They get raised, then a high water level mean that a year or so later it all needs to be done again. I know how much effort goes into the work on the swims. It is on Private land and the owner doesn't want the trees cleared, he allows fishing, and does some of the work himself. There is a Public footpath around 1 side of the lake. As for the heavy baiting, I believe that a couple of members had tickets pulled by bailiffs in the past, but unless the bailiffs see it happen they can't do anything afterwards. It is looked after as properly as time, money and materials allow. Its under constant erosion, and that takes a lot of work, not just an hour here or there, but constant work, almost full time. Unfortunately anglers being anglers don't have that spare time. They have lives and jobs. It is a "syndicate" in a way, not a Day Ticket water, and so the money is not available to be spent on it. To be honest I would thank your lucky stars that it is fishable at all, as in the mid to late 80's and early 90's for a while it was lost to fishing totally.

I wish! Unfortunately I can't quite manage to understand Carp language all the time Seriously you get some fish that will suck at a bait to discern whether it is attached to a hook, some swipe with their tails and some just "know" that a bait is dangerous. When it comes to surface fishing I think that I freeline a lot better than I fish with a Controller. I really concentrate on getting the fish happy to accept mixers or whatever surface bait, so the hookbait doesn't usually get "sussed". On 1 water I was putting my freebaits about a metre away from some overhanging branches, and they were being pushed down by the (inlet) current the same distance on that line, however by a little bit of careful casting I could get the hookbait closer to the treeline, and they were less wary of that than the "further out" freebies. On another the Carp wouldn't take baits that were more than 30cms away from the lilies, I never landed a fish from that lake on the surface. I hooked 2 and got smashed up instantly on 1 take and bitten off on another, and wasn't going to risk the fish if I went up to heavier line and had to play it through the lilies and rushes. Nowhere else on the lake would the Carp take a mixer or floating bait. I'm not particularly good at freelining on the bottom, although I often watch the bait being taken with the "Lift Method", and get into good fish. As Jez says, it is a case of striking and with Freelined bottom baits I mess it up , don't ask, don't know, yet with a float I get it right.

I've just walked around the local lake while I was having a bit of a pre-bait and fish spotting session. I'm glad that I had 3 carrier bags in my pocket as I ended up filling them with Litter. Soft drinks and Beer Cans and Bottles, Line, sweetcorn tins and bags, crisp packets, sweet and biscuit wrappers, 3 disgorgers, 2 floats and a plummet. What is even worse is that in many cases there were bins available. 5 metres from the bin and it still ends up on the ground I did draw the line at picking up the toilet paper and excrement that had been left right next to the main path that many children and dog walkers go along every day. Litter is an absolute disgrace, anyone who leaves it should be banned from fishing, or even Living! As for those who do need a "Pony", please BURY OR BAG IT AND BIN IT!

And a lot of Carp with wind I always wondered why they bubbled so well

The high point of the tubing I always make face forward. So the high point of the tubing is on the hookpoint side. Fishingaddict, I will disagree with you. It doesn't always, and I know that for a fact, cos I actually get in the water to check. I lost 2 fish this week where the hook hadn't flipped round properly. I will state it may also depends on hook size, but in the case this week I was using size6 Centurions, where I hadn't had a problem previously, but different fish can deal with different rigs in different ways

Nick you could easily be a famous angler and i would love to read articles by you. They would be of quality and honesty, not something you get much of these days. Thank You, A post that brought a smile to my face and a tear to the eye Just don't tell anyone else about the tears, I'll claim I was tired

I remember reading Simon Crow saying about having the hair wrapped around the shank in the past as well, and there is me making sure that I get mine perfectly central. Thanks for the credit for the Superstiff tip, but I must admit its down to one of the Original Genius's for the idea; Jim Gibbinson. He called it The Concertina Rig. I'm more of a sponge for information, it goes in and get's remembered for when I need it. I can't think of many things I come up with first, maybe that's what I need to change to become a Famous Angler? Nick

I borrowed this quote (its only part of a reply) from the Different Strains thread, and its a subject that I've been thinking about as well. There are definitely different ways of feeding from different Carp, it has come up in the past in this thread as well. Some fish will suck and blow to eat their food, and others will scoop and pick up their food in the lips. Is this sucking and blowing fish going to get caught on the same rig as a fish which mouthes the bait? How do you make a rig that will catch the both types of feeding. Shorter rigs will catch fish that are over beds of bait, but will this same short rig catch fish feeding on this bait that are sucking the baits in? It can't be going in far enough. Is this the reason for hookpulls on some fish? Or is the short rig being taken in by fish that are picking the bait up and the lead is pulling the hook down to pr1ck the fish too early? On a longer rig with a good length hair ( both longer than usual) do both types of fish get caught? The water I have had a problem with hookholds I was playing this week, and had takes on 2 different rigs, one again, slightly more Complicated than standard. The rig that produced 3 fish was a Basic Knotless Knotted SuperNova Hooklink to ESP hook of about 20cm long. From the end of the bait I had about 10mm clearance to the shank. The other rod had on a Coated Braid Snowman presentation on a Sliding ring on the shank of the hook, the ring only able to slide to the top of the shank as there was a small Fox rubber stop. I had no clearance from the bait to the ring, the hookbait was tight, no additional hair showing through the bait. On both rigs the carp were hooked fairly and squarely and I had no problems with either. Have I gone too Complicated to start with? Dave had a Carp on a basic Amnesia Hooklink with a mono hair. Personnely I think the carp eating your bait has much more say so on whether or not you hook it. I think rigs only make a slight difference in comparrison. That may be true, but there may come a point on "Pressured" waters where you may need to go more advanced. I know I keep going on about you can change the hooklink length, and the hair length, but there may be a point where you could need to do something different. I have had to play around with rigs on this Fishery that I started fishing last year. Its not always to confuse the Carp either, it could be to avoid the weed or bottom make-up.

I borrowed this quote (its only part of a reply) from the Different Strains thread, and its a subject that I've been thinking about as well. There are definitely different ways of feeding from different Carp, it has come up in the past in this thread as well. Some fish will suck and blow to eat their food, and others will scoop and pick up their food in the lips. Is this sucking and blowing fish going to get caught on the same rig as a fish which mouthes the bait? How do you make a rig that will catch the both types of feeding. Shorter rigs will catch fish that are over beds of bait, but will this same short rig catch fish feeding on this bait that are sucking the baits in? It can't be going in far enough. Is this the reason for hookpulls on some fish? Or is the short rig being taken in by fish that are picking the bait up and the lead is pulling the hook down to pr1ck the fish too early? On a longer rig with a good length hair ( both longer than usual) do both types of fish get caught? The water I have had a problem with hookholds I was playing this week, and had takes on 2 different rigs, one again, slightly more Complicated than standard. The rig that produced 3 fish was a Basic Knotless Knotted SuperNova Hooklink to ESP hook of about 20cm long. From the end of the bait I had about 10mm clearance to the shank. The other rod had on a Coated Braid Snowman presentation on a Sliding ring on the shank of the hook, the ring only able to slide to the top of the shank as there was a small Fox rubber stop. I had no clearance from the bait to the ring, the hookbait was tight, no additional hair showing through the bait. On both rigs the carp were hooked fairly and squarely and I had no problems with either. Have I gone too Complicated to start with? Dave had a Carp on a basic Amnesia Hooklink with a mono hair.

Calm down! I highlighted the fact so that you and others don't turn it into a Death Rig. Preventing the beads from sliding would/could create that possibility. I questioned the need for a Silt set-up, nothing you have said above gives me the idea that its still 100% required. The Silt set-up, bomb on the end of the line was designed for where the hooklinkwas required to be held above the Silt, where the Lead, and some of the Line would be dragged into the silty bottom. From your post it seems that with an inch of leaf mould and weed a basic Pop-up on a pendant set-up would be all that is required. Indeed I also said it could or may improve your bite indication. Also have read your next post and quoted it, those "amazingly talented anglers", Would that be from magazines? Sorry, In which case take it with a pinch of salt. The Helicopter/Silt rig variations are not the be all and end all of fishing. Again Helicopter and Silt set-ups are the Current FASHION. In many cases anglers jump to them because they can't be bothered to think about other Safer and in many cases better options. A Running lead with a Slack line does not need Leadcore, and you can get away with using the Putty or Flying Backlead to pin the Line down.

First question, do you have to use a SILT Rig, (Its proper name)? For weed/silt that thin it may not prove an advantage. It also means that you have to have a Tight Line running through the swim to your end Tackle. Yes the Tubing can slip up the Line at times if the fish goes through a snag and it is forced free. Putty can/may trap the Beads on the line, jamming the beads in place, which may make the rig a Death Rig. Never ever attach a swivel above the tubing for the same reason. The helicopter set-ups also may weaken the line as you are playing the fish at an angle against the line. Another point is that Bomb-on the-end of the line set-ups can give minimal indications. Far better in many cases to use a Standard Pendant (Lead clip/running lead) set-up, and a pop-up rig at the end. Indeed I would avoid totally Bomb on the end of the line set-ups if there are any snags. The Fish can run too far before you get any indication at the rod end. If you look at the Sticky at the top of the section with Rigs, Lead set-ups etc, the Weedy Water Rig and Lead set-up can actually be used in Silty Waters as well.