salokcinnodrog

From last week: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=34583

Whatever you think is best relative to the size of the fish Have a read with this maybe give some additional ideas http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=34583

Just about a perfect precis of the place (although there are a couple of shallower features in a couple of the low number pegs 1-6 if you know them ) As for £50 a night? Flipping heck!

I've removed a couple of slightly argumentative posts. I know Catch22 as a venue although I've never fished it as Catch 22 (although did as Lyng Easthaugh). The lake was drained in the 1990's and the majority of the carp that were in there were removed. It was then refilled and re-stocked with legitimate carp (nearly all commons) from Belgium/Netherlands. There are a few lakes in the Wensum valley that do hold catfish. Some were "shifted" from Taverham as the anglers who caught them did not agree with killing fish (or contacting the EA and the EA killing them) and that IS the rule on Taverham Mills. Catch22 is very heavily fished and has been since it re-opened. As far as I knew the best pegs were the 2 opposite the island, Peg 1 and the other in the 30's, and the island swim itself if you book it specially. It also used to fish well with plenty of pellet, pellet groundbait (and the Method), and boilies made from ground pellets.

I know near Romford you have Dagenham Chase, Fairlop Water at Ilford/Fairlop. I believe that there was or is a syndicate on the Chase. I have tried to contact Fairlop in the past via their website and had no reply from them, so you may actually have to go in there to find out. I think it is on a sailing club and a golf club from memory. 2 lakes, one large lake and one a lot smaller There was also a water mentioned in Hornchurch on the forum, but no-one had much detail on it, but I believe it did Google. I don't know if this is any use: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=27977 http://www.fishsoutheast.co.uk/clubsessex.htm

Nice memory Tackle and Equipment Stickies, "What Mainline?," or something like that (Even I can't remember the exact title , but it is near the top of the section). If you go into Rig Tying Stickies section there are some pics of a number of rigs containing braids. Braid hooklinks offer some advantages, and some disadvantages. They are very supple for their breaking strain, I can't say diameter as even the thickness of braids varies across the board There is a difference between hooklink braids and mainline braids. DO NOT use a mainline braid for a hooklink, many are Kevlar impregnated (certain fibres), which is very good at cutting. In actual fact many Special Forces troops are given a length of Kevlar braid, that can be used as an Emergency Saw. Hooklink braids are mostly softer, although there are a couple on the market that are very thin diameter and are capable of cutting (Drennan Specialist braid is one of them) The main disadvantage is that they have limited or no stretch, although that is normally not a problem as the mainline acts as a shock absorber with its stretch. Knots should be perfect, most braids don't take kindly to blood knots. They are also very easy to tangle, and any knot is almost impossible to undo, so a tangled rig needs to be changed every time. A mono or fluoro is less likely to tangle Some braids float, and others sink in normal use, although the arcing or looping off the bottom is actually common to nearly all hooklinks , even worse with shorter hooklinks. Reasons for using braid, it sits nicely on weed, and is sometimes or even more often camouflaged or not as obvious as mono. The suppleness, may offer extra pick-ups, or non ejection as opposed to the stiffness of mono or fluorocarbon hooklinks. Choice is down to you

I shall not put down the wicked thoughts I have about the brand then

Why not use enough Shrink tubing to go down the shank to hold the hair in place. Perfect when you have the hair coming off opposite the point. As for using Silicon tube, different silicon, different behaviour. If the stuff you gets splits, then use one that doesn't And why does it entail tying a new rig if it does split? Thread the tiny piece of tubing onto baiting needle, pull hair through tubing, and then thread over point being careful NOT to catch fibres if you use a braid hair. Simples!

How did the bait come back? Crushed, whole or even none at all? Then think about the length of the pharyngeal teeth from the lips to the back of the mouth. It could be that the bait went all the way back, but the hook didn't go into the lips. Bait was then crushed (and maybe removed), and the Hook just fell down as the hair was too long. Or it may be the opposite that the hair was too short and the fish were ejecting before the hook took hold. In that case go play around with an extending hair cos a long hair of much above 4or5cms is a pain to cast without tangling. As Wilfster has said Line Trailers could be a possibility as well. Don't automatically assume the latest heavily publicised KD rig is the answer to everything. It may be a case of go back to basics. The KD rig because of how the hair leaves the hook could be the problem. In the link above there is a lovely pic of hair attachments to the hook Compare that to how the hair leaves the hook with a KD rig, and then consider that the hook may actually end up turning totally the wrong way they were coming back whole. i have been thinking of tying the hair to the hook as i doubt hardly anyone does that anymore. Problem is often too much importance is placed on rigs instead of the whole package. A rig can be made more effective by understanding feeding. A very effective rig can be made useless by not having the right feeding situation. Rigs are not the "be all and end all", nor is bait, but the feeding situation and rig need to be taken in context together and understood for both to be at their most effective.

How did the bait come back? Crushed, whole or even none at all? Then think about the length of the pharyngeal teeth from the lips to the back of the mouth. It could be that the bait went all the way back, but the hook didn't go into the lips. Bait was then crushed (and maybe removed), and the Hook just fell down as the hair was too long. Or it may be the opposite that the hair was too short and the fish were ejecting before the hook took hold. In that case go play around with an extending hair cos a long hair of much above 4or5cms is a pain to cast without tangling. As Wilfster has said Line Trailers could be a possibility as well. Don't automatically assume the latest heavily publicised KD rig is the answer to everything. It may be a case of go back to basics. The KD rig because of how the hair leaves the hook could be the problem. In the link above there is a lovely pic of hair attachments to the hook Compare that to how the hair leaves the hook with a KD rig, and then consider that the hook may actually end up turning totally the wrong way

There is another thread about Merrington as well covering the booking of the social: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=31197, and somewhere on there is a link to their website. The website contains the prices and full location. I also know that there are a couple more threads on here about it as well

Try this: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=37416 May keep you going for a little while. But typing in Hair length into the search facility will almost definitely bring up more.

Was it Richworth and Anchor who made the Leads with the attached Attractor capsules? I believe one of them also made a fizzing tablet

Sorry if that sounds a bit strong above, just trying to make the point clear, but you know how outspoken I am

NO! You are reading but not understanding. If anything that was curved or with inturned eye, then every rig would be a Bent Hook rig. The Bent Hook rig had an angle put in, BENT, approximately halfway along the shank to create an angle, or the hook was BENT, so that the (Inturned by coincidence) eye was opposite the point of the hook. Which is basically what we are now trying to achieve by using a Line Aligner or Angled (BENT) piece of Tubing. Because it is tubing, under pressure it straightens out, so other than the hookmark it causes a lot less damage other than a hookmark.

Don't know if you will like this thread on Cobbleacre: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=19062&highlight=marios

Korda Kurv (released recently), Carp-R-Us Nailer (about 9 years old) pretty much the same style hook (probably are the same hook ), are Curved shank hooks http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=22185 The pics in this thread of mine is a Carp-r-Us Nailer Coated Braid with a Line Aligner: Even then there are various different types of Longshank hooks. Partridge Piggyback was one that was a potential danger to fish. An inturned eye (as on the Bent Hook rigs), almost the same as the Fox Series5. The Carp-R-Us Longshank Nailer does not have an inturned eye like the Fox. Then you have a B175 by Kamasan, that is a totally straight shank hook, but it is a longshank style with an inturned eye

Read carefully: Think the only patterns that were used were along the type of B175 which adapted into the Bent Hook rig, or the Partridge Z13 Ritchie MacDonald hooks, which already had the bend/angle installed in the shank.

as you may or may not know, i did a tuition session recently and this was the way that i was told to put single fake corn on the hair ! i will go and try it out in a minute- you made me think about it ! Thats good then, thinking about it End to End may be best if corn itself is on lakebed, but may possibly be worse for hooking if the corn is hiding the hook and all the free corn is flat on the bottom. If you see what I mean Hmm, think you're right time to think about it and start watching the Carp's feeding behaviour again.

jeeez i only asked a question, dont bite my head off HE DIDN'T, but for being a trifle insecure I will. Tony gave you an answer, and an honest one. Don't be oversensitive, all his questions are pertinent and relate to YOUR fishing, which he tried to help you with. As has been explained MANY MANY times before, the best way to find out is to get out there and do it. Watch, Learn and even Experiment to find out what the Fish want. maybe i interpretted it wrong... thanks salokcinnodrog, i feel better now and thanks cal35, im not alone then No problem, glad you took it as intended after reflection If what you have been doing is continually working it can be very hard to change what has been a winning formula, its just also very difficult to work out when it is time for change Just been looking at 1 of my Artificial Corn rigs, and I have a large B175 (size 4) with a long hair and 3 fake pieces of corn (2 buoyant and 1 sinker) and a plastic bead (the type used in those childrens "heat patterns"; sorry can't think of another way to explain it). I had a number of fish all on that over Vitalin and Sweetcorn a couple of weeks ago. That was a session that upset someone , they didn't think I should be spodding on the lake as it "killed" it for them. He had 1 fish on sweetcorn compared to my 6. The Carp just wanted loads of bait and he hadn't put enough in to hold them. Cal, I have a question for you. I know that the majority of us go through corn from side to side, do you find any difference in takes with the corn "end to end". It just seems a bit strange as it wouldn't land that way on the lakebed.

As Sharpy has said The Bent Hook rig was basically a Long Shank hook that had been bent approximately halfway down the shank to assist in the hook turning in quickly. Unfortunately due to misuse, over use and the fact that on many fish it caused serious Mouth Damage it has been frowned upon in Carp Fishing and in most cases has been banned.

jeeez i only asked a question, dont bite my head off HE DIDN'T, but for being a trifle insecure I will. Tony gave you an answer, and an honest one. Don't be oversensitive, all his questions are pertinent and relate to YOUR fishing, which he tried to help you with. As has been explained MANY MANY times before, the best way to find out is to get out there and do it. Watch, Learn and even Experiment to find out what the Fish want.

Well spotted! it may be that the Club have a Ban on Fixed Leads where the Lead cannot release as in the lead jammed on a swivel or fixed between 2 swivels which do constitute a Death Rig if cracked off. They may allow the Semi-Fixed set-up where the Lead can pull off a Lead Clip. Think you may have to do a bit of checking on the rules very closely. Incidentally a Paper clip can be used to attach the lead to bottom Swivel on a Heli-Set-up (and any Running Lead), although you will need to PVA it from Lead to swivel to prevent it coming off on the cast. Yet when the Lead snags, the Paper Clip opens up and the lead will release. Nick

That means your only option is to use a Lead Set-up that the lead can slide up and down the line, i.e a Running Lead (d'oh, sounds a bit obvious said like that doesn't it ) There is a picture of a Running Lead set-up Here, although you don't need the tubing, although it can help prevent tangles it does also reduce indication slightly

Can't argue for keeping it simple any better than Ouch', Tony and Tryzard There is very little need to tie up super complicated rigs in most cases, there is a lot more that can go wrong. The majority of my fishing since the early 90's has been with a basic Line Aligned or knotless knotted rig. To me the only things that I really need to change for most of my fishing is the Hair or rig length (both of which I believe are covered in The Rig Tying Stickies section). The most important thing is actually getting location right, and as Alan has said, would a basic rig in the same position as his Pulley rig have gotten the same take. Get your location and feeding right and then the fish will often prove that simples is best. Does this help any? http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=9536 It is a fairly long thread with extensive ideas, experiments and opinions.