salokcinnodrog

In the Rig Tying Stickies section there are some rig pics, on that thread I have attached a picture of the Kryston Loop knot http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=22185

The rubber hook beads work best when stopping the ring from sliding down to the hookpoint and bend The extra ring on the hook is to stop the doubled over length pulling back on itself and going through the eye if the eye is slightly open at the join as well as it getting caught in the eye as Zander said I think you will find. I very rarely create a join on a hooklink other than combi-rigs, where I want a stiff boom section and a braided hooksection. Play with the lengths for it to work best. I know Moorsey swears blind with a short braided section, about the length of the hookshank (ask him, its his thinking ), whereas I prefer a longer section, between 3 and 5cms long tied to Amnesia. I also use mostly bottom baits or snowman set-ups, so I think that the section tied to swivel or ring in the middle is more suitable for pop-ups (MY thinking) Of course you could make life a whole lot simpler and simply make a hinge in a coated braid Plastic Child safe scissors cut the plastic coating of a braid fairly easily so you don't have to strip it totally

Ok, so you are fishing over a pretty standard bottom, either silt with a few sticks, leaves and twigs, or a gravel bar. On the silty patch you gradually pull back to straighten the hooklink, and as it straightens you pull the hookpoint into a twig or leaf on the lakebed. Or on the gravel patch that you are fishing you pull the hooklink straight, and as you do so you pull the lead and it moves the hook taking the point off the hook as it rubs against stones. Also when you straighten or tweak the rig back, how far do you actually move it? Simon Crow and Rob Hughes actually checked how much movement there was on just tightening down by hand. In some cases the lead was moved by as much as 30centimetres from the point of impact on the lakebed. Far enough to pull it into weed or off your feature. Or another example; You gradually reel down to feel the lead, which is tight on the bottom, either slightly plugged in silt, or tight to a stone. You add a little extra effort to move it, and the lead just pops free, and moves further than you think as it is then effectively on a piece of elastic. That movement could take it away from the "right" spot. Feathering the cast does NOT necessarily straighten the hooklink out. Read my previous post , you CANNOT make a light hooklink fall faster through water than the lead The hooklink will fall around the lead unless it is stiff and pushed away from the lead someway

Why worry about it? A braided rig to me works on the fact that it is not straightened, and is close to the lead. It allows the fish more movement with the hook and bait in the mouth, a straightened hooklink is almost relying on the fish trying to move away to hook itself As Andy says, when casting feather it down near contact and the hooklink "slides" past the lead and enters the water. No matter what though, as the lead falls faster through the water the hooklink will fall around it. Its not tangling in most cases until you pick the lead up on reeling in. If you want to slow the fall of the hook and link through the water then use a nugget of dissolving foam If you do want it straighter then use a Stick mix. I'm happy with a big stringer of baits around the hook bait and it is "tied " onto the hook and the tubing above the lead. Alternatively you could always go to combi rigs with just a short supple section near the hook and a stiffer boom from the lead end (Ask Moorsey about his Combi Link that works for him, mine is a bit different)

Way to get a rough estimate is to tie a length of wool from the (marker) lead back up the mainline and leave it out for a few minutes. It will be at an angle as you tighten down the line, but should be enough to work with. Running leads and softer more supple hooklinks for me every time. I don't like using Helicopter set-ups unless I absolutely have to.

You probably didn't get a reply because you were so specific with ESP tube on the other thread. It can take a few days for someone who has the particular information you asked to get onto the forum. Even your headline question on this thread is misleading,, it is only because I usually read EVERY post that I even bothered reading this thread at all The best Shrink tube is NOT bought from a Tackle shop at all! Go into Maplins and have a look at the 1.4mm, or go to Mo's Co on e-bay or and have a look at the shrink tube he sells. In my view those are the best and I do use B175's, but very rarely use shrink tube on them

I had a quick search for a pic of the Anchor rig on t'interweb, but unfortunately I can't find one. From Memory there is a published picture in a Tim Paisley book, To Catch a Carp, it is in the Frank Warwick rig section chapter. As you tie the rig using a line aligner or piece of tubing over the eye of the hook you push a stiff piece of mono through the tubing at 90degrees to the eye of the hook so it goes from side to side. This piece of mono (bristle) then forms an anchor shape that helps prevent the rig being ejected. (in theory) There is also another with a bristle used to prevent ejection, it extends beyond the hair at the base of the shank, and is basically like that "hair in the mouth with food" that you are constantly trying to split the 2 up with your tongue I can think of a number of rigs that look rubbish in my hand, but hook very effectively. As Dan says, it is NOT how they work in the hand, but how they hook the carp, hopefully causing minimal damage. I CAN'T comment on the effectiveness or any potential damage of the Anchor or Bristle rig as I have honestly never used them.

same tbh, but that wasnt the question was it Nick In a way it is the correct answer to the question. I probably should have added that I use John Roberts clips, but I am pretty positive in the Semi-Fixed, Bolt or Running leads thread in Stickies the answer is in there Not that I can remember, but its on Page1: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=26640

How about the answer that I don't use Lead clips at all! For ages I have been using Solar, Korum and Fox Running Lead set-ups, and on the few occasions that I want to use a Semi-fixed lead I have my own way to fix it, and can do so in the knowledge that the lead will be ejected if I need it to.

I think that much of the stuff with Korda on the label is overpriced or over rated. If you want Running Lead set-ups then to my mind the better ones are Fox, Solar and Korum. They come complete, run rings, buffers/beads and tubing.

If your bait is buoyant enough to lift the hook and hooklink, Fluoro may work, but in long lengths how do you test it out?

Just add pics: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=37603 There are various lead set-ups on that thread in the pictures and diagrams

If you can save it as an Adobe file on a host server it may be able to be linked to, (the same as pictures and image links) I will see what I can find out.

This ais a quote of mine from another thread: While I applaud the idea, that is not the whole truth, as proteins from different sources sometimes have amino acids in common, and other times some totally different. Carp have a requirement for a certain number of amino acids, and others are synthesized from those already present. Add into that by "blending" proteins you don't necessarily increase the protein content, or even needing a binder can radically drop a protein level. In theory, by having a vegetable protein, a fishmeal or meat meal and a milk protein you have covered all of the essentials as long as you have a bait that ends up around that 35-45% (ish)

So do I

I tie the mainline to the rig swivel. I don't like Quick link clips, I have seen them "let go", had it happen to myself, and watched an angler lose a very big fish when the rubber slipped off one of his. Also the quick link clips allow extra movement on the rig which may negate indication of a pick up at the rod end. To me the fastest and most instant way of getting indication is with no swivel, but an "O" ring buried inside the tail rubber. Not practical to tie mainline and rig to that so I make sure that my rig swivel buried as far as possible inside a tail rubber or rubber tulip bead, with only the rig side sticking out. It also makes it fairly tangler free. While writing this I actually wonder if the quick link clips are responsible for more tangles as well allowing more movement?

Pretty much the same here as the last 2 posts, although I do prefer a longer link when using PVA bags

Do the experiment yourself, it DOES NOT straighten itself out under tension, the twist pulls tight and stays in the leadcore! Sorry I have actually taken the trouble to get into the water and test it. Leadcore is horrible stuff for fishing, and in many cases it is used "so that fish are landed". At times being fished in situations where fishing should not be undertaken because it is so snaggy. The majority of excuses for the use of leadcore are simply down to people who HAVEN'T actually done the tests. What is published in magazines is not always the truth as the editors or whatever simply follow fashion. I have had long debates with magazine editors over it, from where I DID do tests and experiments to prove or disprove its safety. Beanz' comments about it rubbing along the flanks are slightly off the mark as well. Yes, fish damage themselves, particularly, or especially at spawning, but that is a natural phenomenon, NOT one we create. Leadcore can create a burn along the skin, but that burn is not always apparent at the time of the capture. A couple of hours or days later it can start to show up, the same as a burn in humans which may blister or scar but not be immediately apparent. Now lets get back to the "losing the lead on a take". You do NOT want that to happen with a heli set-up, as you would want the weight to "hold" so that the rig can be ejected, otherwise the beads etc will not be able to pull off the leadcore until the leadcore is back under tension.

Hope that is not my Sliding ring version or I will be causing trouble EDIT: Oh dear, they have overcomplicated the issue and made it slightly more ineffective to my eyes. Adding the rig putty is actually stopping the rig working as effectively, and the "Blowback" version is using the current fashion for Blowback rigs to make it a "seller". I don't suppose you have any idea how long that has been on their website? Just asking, as last year I sent off pics of my version above (with schematics underneath) to CarpTalk with a Catch report.

Is this any use? A leadcore free version: A piece of rigid tubing a soft rubber bead or two (if you want the sliding version), tail rubber ring swivel and quicklink style clip for the lead. The pics and ideas are ages old, so they are NOT my current hook patterns.

I had to do some pics to help somebody out the other day for tying a combi-rig, so I will add them onto here: Cut your braid and stiff section to lengths required. I have used black Amnesia for clarity as clear does not show up particularly well on the scanner Tie an overhand knot in the stiff section, but don't pull tight, and thread the braid through the loop. On the braid tie a Uni knot back down around the stiff section, wet them both and pull tight While you can use a standard knotless knot my current version is along the lines of a sliding/revolving version, so I add on a line aligner (shrink tubing not yet shrunk down) and add on a rig ring with hair and a small stop to stop it.

I use it for combi-rigs and stiff links, brilliant stuff. The different colours have different "stiffnesseseses" . The black amnesia is a lot more supple than the clear, green or red It also ties a tidier knot

8 feet of leadcore? Seriously? Yes. 8 feet of leadcore? Seriously? Think someone is JOKING Not joking either. I used to have doubts over using leadcore, like a lot of people do. But i had my choddies set up such a way that the bead would always release if the lead got snagged. Sorry, I am anti Leadcore and many of the reasons why are in this thread: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=32598 It does not take much for the leadcore to kink, and then a lead or bead can get trapped on leadcore, no matter how much pressure you put on the beads CAN get trapped holding the rig in place. I found the pics I mentioned previously on this thread http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=44395&highlight=rubber+bead

There may be some useful info on this thread: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=45767

8 feet of leadcore? Seriously? Think someone is JOKING I had a safe way of using a Silt rig set-up using a piece of rigid tubing ( I did put up pics somewhere): A short length of rigid tubing, ring swivel, 2 rubber beads and/or 1 bead and a tail rubber or stop bead. If you want the rig to be able to slide then put the ring swivel on the tubing and at either end use a rubber bead to hold it. The rig can then slide off the tubing in the event of the fish snagging. If you want it fixed then put the tubing into the tail rubber or stop bead.