salokcinnodrog

For pop-ups I much prefer an out turned eye on the hook. With the pop-up being mounted close to the shank on a short hair, basically a hair but the same as the bait being shank mounted, I think the out turn offers a better presentation. When it comes down to bottom baits the current fashion for curved shanks seems to offer a good presentation sometimes without the need for a line aligner, although I do like the straight shank hooks if I can create the line aligner using tubing (either silicon or shrink). Certain waters have a need for different rigs, and in that, a different hook pattern. I still have a number of rigs tied up with Kamasan B175's, and I find that they are extremely good hookers as the inturned eye forces the hook to turn very quickly. The main use to me for an inturned point is when gravel and hook blunting is a problem. I think a lot of hook patterns and use is fashion (Tin Hat being fitted), and about what is written in magazines. If we all used the standard Drennan Super Specialists, (even with that nice bright finish), we would still hook and land fish.

You've not seen the Yare, very few fish for a massive area. The fish can get from the Wensum New Mills Yard in Norwich, down to the junction of the 2 rivers, and back up to the last Mill on the Yare to basically Great Yarmouth with nothing to stop them. The river itself is 10metres deep in places as there are occasional freight carrying ships going up and down it. While Whitlingham is just part of it, they don't always stay there, same as the bream, and boy did I try. You also have the pub downstream from Postwick/Trowse side, Bramerton Woods End where they have been known to show, but that used to be set aside for Water Skiers on certain times and days. Biggest I had was only double figures, and came from the Riverside Road stretch in the City (Wensum) by accident in the winter when I was fishing casters on the stick for Roach, but I have seen a lot bigger near The Compleat Angler (while I was having a drink waiting for a train). A boat will save you a lot of travelling and set-up time, and is invaluable for access to areas where parking near the bankside is limited. In fact only Norwich, Thorpe, Woods End, Griffin Marina and then down to Surlingham offer much bankside access. Also some carp have also been landed in the Yare matches down near Cantley near the Sugar Beet Factory, nothing massive on the tackle intended for bream and roach. The flow down there can be absolutely awesome when the tide turns.

I don't have any photos left, I lost a lot when my Mrs and I split up, and over time as all mine were on prints. Areas to search are around Thorpe St. Andrew in the old marina, by the New Cut, and by the New Cut entrances both ends, just downstream of the Railway bridge, Thorpe Green and Griffin Marina. Bream can be a problem, and the fish can just disappear, although the old marina on the island is one of the spawning areas. Access used to be through the Houses opposite the Girls High School, or by doing a naughty across the bridge from the bottom of Thorpe Road near the Council Offices.

PLEASE, don't make comments like that. I can think of no end of double entendres to go with it, so I'll just hope the jokes blow over quietly When it comes to Snag fishing is this any use: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=28532

Ways to weigh down pop-ups. Shot on the line; I don't like, I worry about the possibility of the shot crimping and cutting the hooklink. A stop knot made from power gum and covered with putty; works well on plain braids and mono hooklinks. Putty moulded over the end of the coated braid "rip off end"; It works, but does slide off at times, even Heavy Metal or Gardner Critical Mass. Putty moulded over the hook eye, same as above. Fox, Korda, Solar Pop-up weights, Depth Charges etc; Nice idea, but a rip off for the name Carp at the start. Pole anglers Olivettes; Available with a hole through the middle, can be held in place with a small piece of Amnesia or other thick mono, or a version that has a piece of silicon tubing to hold in place at either end. Easy and one of my favoured ways of doing it, putty can also be added if required.

Don't assume you have to lose the lead on every take, thats the point. In a snag free lake you don't need to. Just make sure that whatever lead attachment you use that in the event of a snap off the fish is not trailing around a rig and lead, which is one of the reasons I hate lead clips; the swivel is so tight into the bottom of the clip it CAN'T come out, the clip has not been trimmed down, or the rubber is (accidentally) pushed too far onto the clip. I actually think that John Roberts Beads are better: For Running leads there are various manufacturers versions available, Fox, Solar, Gardner, Korda. All consist of a Run Ring that will slide up and down the mainline (or tubing), but they are basically a Run ring being stopped from running down to the hooklink by a buffer bead of some sort, so for once you don't need to buy components from one manufacturer to suit or fit perfectly.

I very rarely aim to lose the lead on a run, in fact unless I'm snag fishing I don't want to, and for that have a read of this: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=44282 Is this any use? Lead set-up thread: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=37603 Some rig pics: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=22185 To be honest I would still keep it as simple as possible, the majority of fish caught are caught on a basic knotless knotted or line aligner hook set up. It is down to our wish to play around in many cases that we confuse the issue, even if some of the rigs in the 3rd link are a little bit more confusing and I'm as guilty of that as anyone at times. Go to this section of the forum: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewforum.php?f=104 There are threads covering Lead set-ups, what hooklink material, hopefully just about everything you could wish for. The simplest way to tie just about every rig is with the knotless knot, you can tie it with baits on so you get the hair length right. If you wish, then you can add shrink or silicon tubing before you tie on your swivel or quicklink.

Safe and usable Helicopter set-up Get a piece of hard tubing, 1bullet buffer bead, 2 soft rubber beads and a ring swivel or equivalents. I believe I have a pic or 2, from when I was playing with the idea Those hooks are something like 1995 patterns so you can see how long I have had an enquiring mind as to what I can play around with and ways to work things out The top bead being able to slide off the top of the body under minimal pressure means the rig swivel can also slide over any leader knot. Therefore as far as I'm concerned that means that you can fish an absolute Long Casting set-up safely with a Helicopter rig, or with a Running Lead. I remember posting on a thread a while ago about Helicopter rigs and I mentioned the JRC Helicopter beads, and there was also an alternative at the time in Cox and Rawle Beach Beads

I have been using Mo's for a while, and while fishing this weekend decided to tie up a few more rigs; the stuff I got from Mo worked a treat Just hold it in the steam from the kettle as I brewed up, piece of cake I always do this with the korda shrink tube and have never had any problems, works fine No, I'll leave that you are happy, large and bold enough to use Korda tackle, then I'll embarrass you with that comment later I'll also not tell you that you can edit your own posts and change the font size

I have been using Mo's for a while, and while fishing this weekend decided to tie up a few more rigs; the stuff I got from Mo worked a treat Just hold it in the steam from the kettle as I brewed up, piece of cake

You can hold the bend in before you put it into the steam, but I make sure that it "stays" by bending it as it comes out. The cold water is just a "quick-fix" instead of letting it cool naturally. Incidentally I think I may have tried Korda tubing and decided that I didn't like it

Firstly as said make sure you get Shrink tube, and get a good quality type! I've used Fox and ESP, and also gone into Electrical shops like Maplins to get Shrink tube, but now use Mo's Co (he has i-net shop or go through E-bay ). I boil the kettle with the rig and shrink tube in the spout, and you should see it shrink as it is in the steam and water vapour, then after is has shrunk, usually within a second or 2 bend it into the shape you want, then while holding this bend put it into cold water and it will stay in shape.

Dan, You know the reason I asked you've seen my set-ups and I feel comfortable using it, however I may well have been fishing in "dirtier" areas of the lake with more rubbish and debris on the bottom, although a few baits have been dropped on gravel features. I wonder if different tubing has different effects, and different smells. I have noticed that when I have used Armourtube on BP that I do get fewer runs, and that is gloss finished. The Solar tubing I use has a "silky", slightly textured feel, as opposed to a totally smooth feel. I wonder if this slight texture allows silt and other debris to settle on it, as opposed to the totally smooth finish (If you have problems seeing or imagining what I mean I mentioned the effect in Leads, Shapes and colours thread: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=22174 ). I also think that some tubing that we use, the plastic absolutely stinks, and that is definitely off putting to my nose, so I wonder if it does the same to carp? I seem to remember Jim Gibbinson commenting on this, and he would take his tubing out of the packaging and leave it for a few weeks before he used it. I take the tubing out of the Solar package (Running Rigs) and put it into a different bag mini bag as I keep all my tubing together. I also have a feeling that it takes out or reduces the vibration of the mainline if fished tight (telegraph/power line effect). I use tubing for the simple reason of using it to protect the mainline and reduce the effects of snag rubbing against mainline. I have landed a couple of fish on waters where the tubing has been rubbed and scraped over gravel, or snags and the tubing has actually been scratched and abraded, yet it has protected the mainline from being rubbed through. That is actually something that I DON'T think that leadcore does, I think that the braided outer of leadcore is more likely to snap and give than tubing, which because of its softness and smoothness (comparitive) doesn't bite into the snag or gravel. One thing I will say, I am confident in Tangle free rigs, my rig placement and with how I fish with tubing, so that in itself may be extra fish anyway

You reckon it effects catch rates? I'm sure that sometimes it does make the rig stand out more, but I think that it doesn't "telegraph" like a tight mono can (vibration).

There is very little chance of mainline removing or pinging a scale, although there is always that miniscule chance, usually with scaly mirrors, but not usually commons. We floater fish with no tubing, and I have not had it happen myself that I can remember. Also a scale will grow back over time. As for Tubing on Running leads, I think it does create a bit more resistance, so I use the softest most supple tubing I can get (Solar) and not a thick tubing that will definitely cause additional problems, also a Run Ring with a large a diameter as possible. With the heavy wire weighted or lined tubing I would think that it is likely not to be as supple as the plastic only tubing available. Using a heavy tubing may mean that you have to use a larger weight so it stays still on the take.

Absolutely loads of answers to this and almost everyone is going to give you a different answer. Further along the page is a thread called "What is the best hook?", and in the UK Rig Tying Stickies, "What is the best bottom bait hook?" Get faith in a particular hook pattern, and then stick with it Now my personal choice is that I avoid Korda hooks and rig materials. I prefer Carp-R-Us hooks, Kryston hooklinks in braid and coated braid, then for mono hooklinks I resort to Berkley XT, Drennan Sub Surface Mono leader (Fly Fishing section) or the last little bit I have left of P-line Floroclear or Carp-R-Us Clearwater for fluoro hooklinks. I hardly ever use anything other than braid or coated braid as I have so much faith in what I do and know that it works for me. To a certain extent match up the hooklinks to what you are fishing for, although most braids less than 15lb may actually be a risk as it is possible for them to cut the fish as they are so fine. I can honestly say that I have never used the KD rig, it is just a currently fashionable rig being pushed by the magazines. You are probably far better using a basic knotless knotted or line aligned hook, and dependant on where you hook the fish playing with the hair and rig length (Threads available). Swivels, hooks, and hooklinks will soon go through £30 Suggestion for you: DO NOT buy Korda, Solar, Nash, Fox or other branded swivels as most are just re-branded from either Mustad, Leeda, Middy or Berkley.

You have all those links to read, and a number of them have pictures of fish which have been tethered and died on a leader or leadcore, and many have personal experiences of anglers who have written about fish tethered and snagged on the same unable to break free, or trailing line, and yet you still use it? I'm sorry, but with all the questions you have asked, it shows your inexperience, and maybe even a little irresponsibility in still using such a risky product. It does not take an angler error in using it for the potential for a fish to become tethered or die because of it, (although the error is in using it!). You have heard about it being used incorrectly, well it can still be dangerous if used correctly, so there is NO correct way to use it safely. The lead core inner may poke out the sheathing and prevent a bead from releasing, and in doing so hold the rig in place. The leadcore may get twisted and kinked, under casting force, and you may get a snap-off, that is another potential dead fish. Don't think that I have no idea what I'm saying, and I am just jumping on the Anti Leadcore bandwagon; I did used to use it, and was happy in its use, until some members on here, Jemsue, Goblin started making me think about its potential for danger. I then lost a fish at SWP where the leadcore leader kept the mainline down in the water as I played a fish, and in doing so, the mainline rubbed through and got abraded on a gravel bar, which eventually cut me off. I left a fish with a length of leadcore trailing behind it. I also retrieved a Safezone leader that had snagged up, covered in weed it was unable to release the rig or the lead. I then tried a series of experiments in the middle of winter, actually getting into the water to see how it landed in the lake, and what happened if it got snagged. While doing this I also pulled in a fish that had gotten snagged up with leadcore around a branch. The fish may have been hooked on a helicopter set-up, but because the leadcore was wrapped around the snag it made no odds, and the fish was snagged and tethered. For your sake, the safety of the fish, and for the happiness of many other anglers, please, dispose of the leadcore, put it in the bin where it belongs and just use mainline (and tubing) straight through. If you are worried about whether tubing puts fish off, look at my results this year, and I use tubing to protect the mainline from rubbing over the gravel on the lake I'm fishing and protect from snags. I may have lost a few, but I do KNOW that the most the fish is trailing is a short hooklink.

Have Fun: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=32598 http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=40970 http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=39794 http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=41527 http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=38886 I've given you plenty to read on those threads, some or even most of your questions may be answered on them. Hopefully it will persuade you how much of a danger Leadcore is to Carp fishing, and that the use of a leader is not needed at all in most cases except for Distance Fishing.

Is this any use? http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=22185 A pic of a combi rig with some other rigs that can be used for Snowman baits Or this Snowman rig thread: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=42194&highlight=snowman And there are more available through the search

Beanz, The lack of bait may only be a theory, but at range even with a bait boat, it is very difficult to get freebies around the hookbait. With a throwing stick boilies can miss by miles; well as much as 10 metres and it may look close to the marker float, add into that the drift, which even a bait boat can't cover, as bait drops down from a boat it still spreads over a wide area (Carpology article, January this year). A spod does not guarantee getting close. Those singles that were fished, may be genuine attempts at singles, but I reckon in many cases it was the over-flavoured pop-ups, and many were fishing single bottom baits anyway, without intending to. A current phenomenon in fishing is that we all bait up with pellets, particles, spod mix, but very rarely use Food source boilies in our mix (most Dynamite Shelfies are NOT food source, but part of a package), and very few are actually fishing a correctly pre-baited and applied food source. The food source boilie fished as a single hookbait may well continue to work if they are being regularly baited up with (http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=27808) At range you have to get the best out of your rig, the lack of indication means that by the time you get the bleep on your buzzer, you only get the indication from fish that take the bait and charge off. A single bleep may be missed as it is lost through the line stretch. At range say 100metres, you could possibly not get indication until the fish has reached 120metres (assuming 20% mono stretch), and even the carp can move the lead 20% in any direction until your (HEAVY) indicator pulls the line down on a drop back, or until the stretch is taken up as the fish runs away from you. It is actually why I prefer running rigs wherever possible. Even at range, there is no tension holding the line, and because the line is not under pressure that line can be pulled through a run ring, so you still get a "proper" run. I have seen even at relatively short ranges a semi-fixed lead pulled in a perfect arc, no movement on the indicator, and no sound from the buzzer. So to my view, you need an absolutely reliable 100% sharp hook, an effective hooking rig, which will change from water to water, but it has to be tangle free. Braids can be a 'mare to fish at long range, unless you can guarantee that they won't tangle, which can be done with the use of Kryston Superstiff. The shorter the rig, then the less chance you have of tangles as well.

Long range fishing you need to be as streamlined and as tidy as possible. The same rigs should work, but the hookpulls may be down to not having enough feed at the long range area. You may not be getting the fish so confident in their feeding, and so they are not so comfortable taking the bait. You might need to increase the weight on the indicator, or go the other way, and if possible use Running leads and slack lines. Not always practical at range I know, but it can work very well. Probably the tidiest and most streamlined lead set-up for long range is a helicopter set-up. The lead tows everything behind it. It could possibly be that your braid rigs are tangling at that sort of distance, and you don't know about it. It may even be that you are striking at line bites, and at that range you are feeling like you are hooking a fish, and then it "gets lost". The one thing I would do is usually drop the hooksize, or lengthen the hair or rig length when I start losing fish to hookpulls. So much to potentially be wrong, and so little information really as each water is different, but if you can get more bait out there see if that makes any difference first if the same rig works closer in

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I'd be even more worried about those clips with mono. I don't like loop knots with a fairly fine mono, even my trusted Kryston knot. I think that the sleeve slipped at some point in the weed, instead of "jamming it up" it pulled it down. It was a coated braid that went, and the only time the line was slack was on the original pulling out the first pads. From then on the line was taught as the fish kited. I know exactly how close I was to getting that fish in as I climbed down the bank to make the attempt for Steve, he had got it under control on a tight line and had walked along the bank. I even saw it turn, and I still won't tell him what I think it was I saw it that closely Its not the first time I've seen it happen, but the most costly loss I've seen. I had the same happen to me with prototypes years ago at Taverham, long before Korda released them, the rubber slipped down, and the clip didn't hold the hooklink, actually attached to a swivel. The rubber sleeve that should have held tight onto the quick link forced down over the swivel in the weed. The quicklink then allowed the swivel to come off. I would say that there use is a complete risk in weedy waters, but after another incident I think that they could be a total liability. It was my mate Wayne who lost a biggie at the net with a quick link clip and the hooklink forcing its way onto the single branch of the twin section, and that was in a fairly weed free water, fairly silty, but a few snags.

Even Danny Fairbrass has said that the best way to get instant indication is to get the swivel or ring as close to or inside the end of the lead to create maximum effect. By using a quick link you are adding an additional pivot point and allowing more movement for the carp to get around. may be on a lead clip or inline but that isnt going to make any differance on a run rig on slack line Very true, but most anglers still don't use and get the benefits of the Running leads Mind you I still think that a quick change link looks "messy" sticking out the end of the bead.

The only reason I can see to use a quick link clip is when you use a Stick mix, other wise they create more trouble than they are worth. Even Danny Fairbrass has said that the best way to get instant indication is to get the swivel or ring as close to or inside the end of the lead to create maximum effect. By using a quick link you are adding an additional pivot point and allowing more movement for the carp to get around. If you must use a quick link, then the better ones are actually designed for Sea Fishing (Sea Match anglers), and are called Spin Links. Even then they need a tight piece of rubber over them. The only other ones that I think are any good are the spiral coil quick links.