salokcinnodrog

For pop-ups I much prefer an out turned eye on the hook. With the pop-up being mounted close to the shank on a short hair, basically a hair but the same as the bait being shank mounted, I think the out turn offers a better presentation. When it comes down to bottom baits the current fashion for curved shanks seems to offer a good presentation sometimes without the need for a line aligner, although I do like the straight shank hooks if I can create the line aligner using tubing (either silicon or shrink). Certain waters have a need for different rigs, and in that, a different hook pattern. I still have a number of rigs tied up with Kamasan B175's, and I find that they are extremely good hookers as the inturned eye forces the hook to turn very quickly. The main use to me for an inturned point is when gravel and hook blunting is a problem. I think a lot of hook patterns and use is fashion (Tin Hat being fitted), and about what is written in magazines. If we all used the standard Drennan Super Specialists, (even with that nice bright finish), we would still hook and land fish.

You've not seen the Yare, very few fish for a massive area. The fish can get from the Wensum New Mills Yard in Norwich, down to the junction of the 2 rivers, and back up to the last Mill on the Yare to basically Great Yarmouth with nothing to stop them. The river itself is 10metres deep in places as there are occasional freight carrying ships going up and down it. While Whitlingham is just part of it, they don't always stay there, same as the bream, and boy did I try. You also have the pub downstream from Postwick/Trowse side, Bramerton Woods End where they have been known to show, but that used to be set aside for Water Skiers on certain times and days. Biggest I had was only double figures, and came from the Riverside Road stretch in the City (Wensum) by accident in the winter when I was fishing casters on the stick for Roach, but I have seen a lot bigger near The Compleat Angler (while I was having a drink waiting for a train). A boat will save you a lot of travelling and set-up time, and is invaluable for access to areas where parking near the bankside is limited. In fact only Norwich, Thorpe, Woods End, Griffin Marina and then down to Surlingham offer much bankside access. Also some carp have also been landed in the Yare matches down near Cantley near the Sugar Beet Factory, nothing massive on the tackle intended for bream and roach. The flow down there can be absolutely awesome when the tide turns.

I don't have any photos left, I lost a lot when my Mrs and I split up, and over time as all mine were on prints. Areas to search are around Thorpe St. Andrew in the old marina, by the New Cut, and by the New Cut entrances both ends, just downstream of the Railway bridge, Thorpe Green and Griffin Marina. Bream can be a problem, and the fish can just disappear, although the old marina on the island is one of the spawning areas. Access used to be through the Houses opposite the Girls High School, or by doing a naughty across the bridge from the bottom of Thorpe Road near the Council Offices.

Which part of Norfolk? Plenty in the area, let me know and I'll give some details on a number of fisheries

PLEASE, don't make comments like that. I can think of no end of double entendres to go with it, so I'll just hope the jokes blow over quietly When it comes to Snag fishing is this any use: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=28532

Ways to weigh down pop-ups. Shot on the line; I don't like, I worry about the possibility of the shot crimping and cutting the hooklink. A stop knot made from power gum and covered with putty; works well on plain braids and mono hooklinks. Putty moulded over the end of the coated braid "rip off end"; It works, but does slide off at times, even Heavy Metal or Gardner Critical Mass. Putty moulded over the hook eye, same as above. Fox, Korda, Solar Pop-up weights, Depth Charges etc; Nice idea, but a rip off for the name Carp at the start. Pole anglers Olivettes; Available with a hole through the middle, can be held in place with a small piece of Amnesia or other thick mono, or a version that has a piece of silicon tubing to hold in place at either end. Easy and one of my favoured ways of doing it, putty can also be added if required.

Don't assume you have to lose the lead on every take, thats the point. In a snag free lake you don't need to. Just make sure that whatever lead attachment you use that in the event of a snap off the fish is not trailing around a rig and lead, which is one of the reasons I hate lead clips; the swivel is so tight into the bottom of the clip it CAN'T come out, the clip has not been trimmed down, or the rubber is (accidentally) pushed too far onto the clip. I actually think that John Roberts Beads are better: For Running leads there are various manufacturers versions available, Fox, Solar, Gardner, Korda. All consist of a Run Ring that will slide up and down the mainline (or tubing), but they are basically a Run ring being stopped from running down to the hooklink by a buffer bead of some sort, so for once you don't need to buy components from one manufacturer to suit or fit perfectly.

I very rarely aim to lose the lead on a run, in fact unless I'm snag fishing I don't want to, and for that have a read of this: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=44282 Is this any use? Lead set-up thread: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=37603 Some rig pics: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=22185 To be honest I would still keep it as simple as possible, the majority of fish caught are caught on a basic knotless knotted or line aligner hook set up. It is down to our wish to play around in many cases that we confuse the issue, even if some of the rigs in the 3rd link are a little bit more confusing and I'm as guilty of that as anyone at times. Go to this section of the forum: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewforum.php?f=104 There are threads covering Lead set-ups, what hooklink material, hopefully just about everything you could wish for. The simplest way to tie just about every rig is with the knotless knot, you can tie it with baits on so you get the hair length right. If you wish, then you can add shrink or silicon tubing before you tie on your swivel or quicklink.

Welcome to the madhouse, Catch 22 can produce in Winter, but can be very localised and the fish can stay in particular areas on the lake. Taverham Mills also used to have a reasonable track record if you knew where the fish would hang out. Shallowbrook also used to have a reasonable reputation. Have a dig around for "Norfolk Waters" on the Search facility and specify UK Where to Fish, you will probably find a few more

Safe and usable Helicopter set-up Get a piece of hard tubing, 1bullet buffer bead, 2 soft rubber beads and a ring swivel or equivalents. I believe I have a pic or 2, from when I was playing with the idea Those hooks are something like 1995 patterns so you can see how long I have had an enquiring mind as to what I can play around with and ways to work things out The top bead being able to slide off the top of the body under minimal pressure means the rig swivel can also slide over any leader knot. Therefore as far as I'm concerned that means that you can fish an absolute Long Casting set-up safely with a Helicopter rig, or with a Running Lead. I remember posting on a thread a while ago about Helicopter rigs and I mentioned the JRC Helicopter beads, and there was also an alternative at the time in Cox and Rawle Beach Beads

Cambridgeshire, have a Look at Fenland Fisheries if you want Day Ticket. Its in Earith, about 20miles past Cambridge, turn off A14 at Bar Hill. You are also close to some Norfolk Waters around Thetford and the Watton area. I'm pretty positive that by keying in Cambridgeshire or Suffolk to the search facility then you will have a longer list

Are you looking for Season, Syndicate or Day Ticket?

I have been using Mo's for a while, and while fishing this weekend decided to tie up a few more rigs; the stuff I got from Mo worked a treat Just hold it in the steam from the kettle as I brewed up, piece of cake I always do this with the korda shrink tube and have never had any problems, works fine No, I'll leave that you are happy, large and bold enough to use Korda tackle, then I'll embarrass you with that comment later I'll also not tell you that you can edit your own posts and change the font size

Absolutely ages since Foxearth was mentioned http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=37837&highlight=foxearth I have no idea about current fish stocks since the death of at least 2 of the fish in there including the Biggest in the lakes that was found dead with otter marks on it. The link above has a link to the Foxearth website. I believe that Maggot may well be worthwhile though after a quick chat with a mate

I have been using Mo's for a while, and while fishing this weekend decided to tie up a few more rigs; the stuff I got from Mo worked a treat Just hold it in the steam from the kettle as I brewed up, piece of cake

You can hold the bend in before you put it into the steam, but I make sure that it "stays" by bending it as it comes out. The cold water is just a "quick-fix" instead of letting it cool naturally. Incidentally I think I may have tried Korda tubing and decided that I didn't like it

Firstly as said make sure you get Shrink tube, and get a good quality type! I've used Fox and ESP, and also gone into Electrical shops like Maplins to get Shrink tube, but now use Mo's Co (he has i-net shop or go through E-bay ). I boil the kettle with the rig and shrink tube in the spout, and you should see it shrink as it is in the steam and water vapour, then after is has shrunk, usually within a second or 2 bend it into the shape you want, then while holding this bend put it into cold water and it will stay in shape.

Dan, You know the reason I asked you've seen my set-ups and I feel comfortable using it, however I may well have been fishing in "dirtier" areas of the lake with more rubbish and debris on the bottom, although a few baits have been dropped on gravel features. I wonder if different tubing has different effects, and different smells. I have noticed that when I have used Armourtube on BP that I do get fewer runs, and that is gloss finished. The Solar tubing I use has a "silky", slightly textured feel, as opposed to a totally smooth feel. I wonder if this slight texture allows silt and other debris to settle on it, as opposed to the totally smooth finish (If you have problems seeing or imagining what I mean I mentioned the effect in Leads, Shapes and colours thread: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=22174 ). I also think that some tubing that we use, the plastic absolutely stinks, and that is definitely off putting to my nose, so I wonder if it does the same to carp? I seem to remember Jim Gibbinson commenting on this, and he would take his tubing out of the packaging and leave it for a few weeks before he used it. I take the tubing out of the Solar package (Running Rigs) and put it into a different bag mini bag as I keep all my tubing together. I also have a feeling that it takes out or reduces the vibration of the mainline if fished tight (telegraph/power line effect). I use tubing for the simple reason of using it to protect the mainline and reduce the effects of snag rubbing against mainline. I have landed a couple of fish on waters where the tubing has been rubbed and scraped over gravel, or snags and the tubing has actually been scratched and abraded, yet it has protected the mainline from being rubbed through. That is actually something that I DON'T think that leadcore does, I think that the braided outer of leadcore is more likely to snap and give than tubing, which because of its softness and smoothness (comparitive) doesn't bite into the snag or gravel. One thing I will say, I am confident in Tangle free rigs, my rig placement and with how I fish with tubing, so that in itself may be extra fish anyway

You reckon it effects catch rates? I'm sure that sometimes it does make the rig stand out more, but I think that it doesn't "telegraph" like a tight mono can (vibration).

There is very little chance of mainline removing or pinging a scale, although there is always that miniscule chance, usually with scaly mirrors, but not usually commons. We floater fish with no tubing, and I have not had it happen myself that I can remember. Also a scale will grow back over time. As for Tubing on Running leads, I think it does create a bit more resistance, so I use the softest most supple tubing I can get (Solar) and not a thick tubing that will definitely cause additional problems, also a Run Ring with a large a diameter as possible. With the heavy wire weighted or lined tubing I would think that it is likely not to be as supple as the plastic only tubing available. Using a heavy tubing may mean that you have to use a larger weight so it stays still on the take.

Absolutely loads of answers to this and almost everyone is going to give you a different answer. Further along the page is a thread called "What is the best hook?", and in the UK Rig Tying Stickies, "What is the best bottom bait hook?" Get faith in a particular hook pattern, and then stick with it Now my personal choice is that I avoid Korda hooks and rig materials. I prefer Carp-R-Us hooks, Kryston hooklinks in braid and coated braid, then for mono hooklinks I resort to Berkley XT, Drennan Sub Surface Mono leader (Fly Fishing section) or the last little bit I have left of P-line Floroclear or Carp-R-Us Clearwater for fluoro hooklinks. I hardly ever use anything other than braid or coated braid as I have so much faith in what I do and know that it works for me. To a certain extent match up the hooklinks to what you are fishing for, although most braids less than 15lb may actually be a risk as it is possible for them to cut the fish as they are so fine. I can honestly say that I have never used the KD rig, it is just a currently fashionable rig being pushed by the magazines. You are probably far better using a basic knotless knotted or line aligned hook, and dependant on where you hook the fish playing with the hair and rig length (Threads available). Swivels, hooks, and hooklinks will soon go through £30 Suggestion for you: DO NOT buy Korda, Solar, Nash, Fox or other branded swivels as most are just re-branded from either Mustad, Leeda, Middy or Berkley.

You have all those links to read, and a number of them have pictures of fish which have been tethered and died on a leader or leadcore, and many have personal experiences of anglers who have written about fish tethered and snagged on the same unable to break free, or trailing line, and yet you still use it? I'm sorry, but with all the questions you have asked, it shows your inexperience, and maybe even a little irresponsibility in still using such a risky product. It does not take an angler error in using it for the potential for a fish to become tethered or die because of it, (although the error is in using it!). You have heard about it being used incorrectly, well it can still be dangerous if used correctly, so there is NO correct way to use it safely. The lead core inner may poke out the sheathing and prevent a bead from releasing, and in doing so hold the rig in place. The leadcore may get twisted and kinked, under casting force, and you may get a snap-off, that is another potential dead fish. Don't think that I have no idea what I'm saying, and I am just jumping on the Anti Leadcore bandwagon; I did used to use it, and was happy in its use, until some members on here, Jemsue, Goblin started making me think about its potential for danger. I then lost a fish at SWP where the leadcore leader kept the mainline down in the water as I played a fish, and in doing so, the mainline rubbed through and got abraded on a gravel bar, which eventually cut me off. I left a fish with a length of leadcore trailing behind it. I also retrieved a Safezone leader that had snagged up, covered in weed it was unable to release the rig or the lead. I then tried a series of experiments in the middle of winter, actually getting into the water to see how it landed in the lake, and what happened if it got snagged. While doing this I also pulled in a fish that had gotten snagged up with leadcore around a branch. The fish may have been hooked on a helicopter set-up, but because the leadcore was wrapped around the snag it made no odds, and the fish was snagged and tethered. For your sake, the safety of the fish, and for the happiness of many other anglers, please, dispose of the leadcore, put it in the bin where it belongs and just use mainline (and tubing) straight through. If you are worried about whether tubing puts fish off, look at my results this year, and I use tubing to protect the mainline from rubbing over the gravel on the lake I'm fishing and protect from snags. I may have lost a few, but I do KNOW that the most the fish is trailing is a short hooklink.

Brought this up again... I wonder how many of these re-invented rigs are causing confusion and bewilderment to current anglers? The majority of experienced anglers all say put the basic simple rig in the right place, with the right bait and you will catch, yet the magazines are advocating all singing all dancing "new" super rigs, yet many probably only catch because of the numbers of people using them. Possibly more fish are caught on a basic knotless knotted/line aligned rig than the rest put together, but the newcomer doesn't know that, the magazines are telling the whole truth in an effort to sell. Now I know I went complicated this year, to the Sliding rig, and I "accidentally" re-named a rig last year a version of the 1up 1down in an attempt to throw a blind as I was testing something out on my lake. My difference was the 1up was a pop-up chopped in half, making it look like a mushroom off the lakebed. No matter what happens I still say that in most fishing put the most simple rig in the right place, with the right feeding situation, be that bed of groundbait, particles boilies or pellets and then looking at hookholds and even "dropped" fish change the hair or rig length accordingly, you will catch.

Have Fun: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=32598 http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=40970 http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=39794 http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=41527 http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=38886 I've given you plenty to read on those threads, some or even most of your questions may be answered on them. Hopefully it will persuade you how much of a danger Leadcore is to Carp fishing, and that the use of a leader is not needed at all in most cases except for Distance Fishing.

You have PM