salokcinnodrog

Lick and stick the bag up. It will lick and stick around standard mainline, leader or tubing It doesn't work with leadcore though

Fish to what you find is right for your fishing. As Stoogi has says there is much difference between the same size hook in various brands and patterns, there is not really a universal hook size guide. Its not just carp fishing that will make you think about the hook size you use, I often use size 8's for roach fishing, be it with sweetcorn or bread as bait, and for carp and chub I will if need be go up to a size 2. A size 2 in a chubs mouth with a large lobworm, slug or bit of bread easily gets lost, and a carp can easily suck in the same size worm on that hook, or even a large piece of crust The main reason for the size of hook we use is more to match the bait size to, although with hair rigging we can make that more difficult to think about.

The most important part of river fishing is exactly the same as lakes, location, and I use exactly the same rigs on the river, although lead set-up may vary from my favoured running lead. One of the most beautiful carp I have caught, at 28lbs, came from a river and was caught with 2x 15mm glugged baits on a line aligned rig of about 20cms made with Merlin braid on a semi-fixed lead over a few handfuls of pellets.

Sure, totally agree, which is why the hair is so important, yet why so many people fail miserably when they fish a bait close to the shank with a very short or non existant hair.

I remember reading part of this book at school, but when I decided to buy some books for my children for Christmas I couldn't help myself reading it again from the start to finish. An amazing tale of how a Cross bred dog from California makes it all the way up to The Yukon into the harshness of Sled dog life during the goldrush. I started the book and couldn't put it down until I had read it from cover to cover.

Its a case of examining every situation as you come to it, and I work on where I where I hook the Carp. I want the Carp to be as confident in my bait as possible, so I tend to keep rigs as simple as possible as well. If I need the hair length extended I will do so. Taken from Andy Littles, Anglers Mail Guide to Carp Fishing, must have been published in the late 80's/early 90's

I totally agree that location is the first part of fishing, but I also think that at times there is a need to come up with something more complicated than the basic. Obviously on "overstocked" lakes the carp will have to pick up almost every item, and in order to make sure that they get the food item will take a massive risk to eat it first. Yet on waters with different circumstances, be it weed, more wary fish or fish that don't necessarily need to eat bait to survive, then you may well need to go more complicated. I also think that in many cases anglers avoid the next step in rig evolution, jumping into the fashionable rig as opposed to the next step forward. A very inefficient rig can be made very efficient by getting the feeding situation right

Use a used Polystyrene cup as bait then

If Gaz hadn't locked it I would have done Problem being that individuals think that it is safe to use because after all Mr. Shelley uses and recommends it, or fisheries won't ban it because the money issue, more anglers more money, and to heck with the risk factor. Here is another thread, I believe complete with a pic or 2: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=38886&highlight=advanced+carp+fishing 13 pages debating the leadcore issue, and how much magazines actually put into showing the risks or discussing the issue

Wrong choddys are for weed. Jim Shelley uses a choddy over any bottom apart from hard bottoms. The lead will sink into the weed and the rest of the leader or mainline will settle on top as long as the pop-up only just sinks under the wait of the leader or putty etc. A well tied and balanced choddy will settle on the tiniest strands of weed or bottom debris! Chods aren't for weed, honest indian The proper name for the set-up was Silt Rigs, that is where they were first designed for. They've become a standard approach, but in weed they can actually cause a few problems; hookpulls or line breakages where the ring abrades the line, or even when the line is being pulled at 90degrees to the fish. I believe Adam Penning has a few comments on it in this months Carpology Rotary Letter, Tim Paisley in one of his books, and also the great Danny Fairbrass said as much in The Korda Guide to Rig Making A semi fixed or running paternostered bait is better in weed, a long tail on a run ring attaching the bomb with a weak link

Safe Zone DOES NOT refer to fish safety, it is the area around the hookbait that he is trying to create. I have retrieved a Safe Zone leader, that was not in any way safe at all. The lead would not or could not be removed by anything other than brute force and a pair of pliers to cut the lead off. The leader was attached to tens of metres of line, and the rig could not be ejected Extra Safety? You have been brainwashed, extra safety is NOT using leaders at all. In fact, having seen some of the big name anglers and how they fish, some definitely haven't heard of carp safety or don't care. That matter was definitely brought up in this months Carpology. IS using a 10ft length of leadcore safe? Honest answer... I can name a big name angler who does! Every time you put on a leader you are moving the weakest point further up the line to the mainline to the leader knot. Without a leader the weak point is the mainline to hooklink join (usually swivel or quicklink), and so in the event of a break the fish is only carrying a hooklink, hook and swivel, which CAN easily be ejected as there is no tension on the hook. EVERY leader increases the risk of a fish getting tethered, a lead not releasing, tension holding the hook in place. Have a read of some of the back issues of Carpology, I can't remember who, sorry, but tubing is apparently able to be caught up on weed and pulled down causing bunching up. (Something I'm going to have to experiment with in a fishing situation ) That possibly leads to a lead not being able to be released. In other words, Leaders and tubing are less safe than plain straight mainline straight through. The choice of the tiny possibility of lifting a scale with mainline, or the larger risk of tethering a fish on a leader? I'm fishing WITHOUT leaders, and where I don't need it without tubing as well. Now lets leave it at that I did give the original link, but here it is again, as all these posts have been copied and pasted: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=32598

Is this any use? http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=22185 there are a few rig pics of stiff and D-rig set-ups. When it comes to mounting a pop-up (or even Snowman) onto a rig ring or D-rig I create a loop at the end of the hair material (in my case usually 4 lb mono) by tying a Uni knot and putting the pop-up into that loop and pulling tight. Then with that bait I can then work out the hair length required and tie the hair onto the ring with a Uni or Blood knot.

Another way of adding cork to the rig is simply to fish it as the top bit on a snowman or as one of a series of baits in a stack rig. Tim Paisley had a series of Big Winter Carp on his stack rig which I seem to think was 3 10mm boilies on the hair with a corkball being 2nd from the top.

The latest fashion item as publicised by the magazines. In the majority of cases you are far better using a standard rig rather than following fashion. If everyone is doing the same KD rig, then it will seem to be catching loads of fish, yet the truth is that if everyone all fished a standard line aligner, or a knotless knotted rig and the same number of fish were caught, then each would show themselves to be as effective as the KD rig. Is a 'standard line aligner' a simple a rig as the 'KD'? I suppose having to add a piece of silicon or shrink tubing makes it slightly more complicated than a slightly modified knotless knot

The latest fashion item as publicised by the magazines. In the majority of cases you are far better using a standard rig rather than following fashion. If everyone is doing the same KD rig, then it will seem to be catching loads of fish, yet the truth is that if everyone all fished a standard line aligner, or a knotless knotted rig and the same number of fish were caught, then each would show themselves to be as effective as the KD rig.

I always look on pop-up rigs as for fish that PICK UP the hookbait (Please note, MY view, not necessarily always correct ). You can make any standard rig a pop-up rig, simply by attaching a pop-up hookbait and adding a piece of putty, shot or sinker to hold it down. In fact, you can use any hi-viz or hi-attract pop-up bait as a bottom bait, depending on how and where you add the putty! One of the most effective pop-up rigs I found was simply a D-rig tied on whatever hooklink material. At the end of the day, YOU have to find out what works for you, be it a standard rig or an adaptation. Here is a thread with a few pics or ideas for you to think about: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=22185

Since I don't use "corked" or "foamed" hookbaits at the moment, here is some thinking for you. If you drill a boilie out all the way through and add a piece of foam or cork for buoyancy, then you will likely add it onto the hair with the foam or cork at 90degrees to the hook, showing out the side. In that position it will lift the hookbait and hook consistently, it will not be at any funny angles. Now go to a partially drilled bait with foam or cork added. If you do it so the drilled and filled bit is pointing at the hook, again, it will give a direct lift upwards. Have the cork at the top, towards the surface, it would also give a direct lift upwards, however you have the risk of the buoyancy of the cork/foam pulling the plug out of the bait. If you change the angle to the sides, then it as if lifts will tilt the hookbait over, probably at a slight angle to the hook.

I can give you a nudge in the right direction with the ingredients from the Enervite blurb from Nutrabaits.net: The full list of ingredients is something along the lines of: Full Fat Soya Flour Liver Powder Equivite Sodium Caseinate Wholemeal Semolina Robin Red Softbill Brewers Yeast Mixed Spices Equivite, if you don't know, is a Horse Feed supplement, and Softbill is another Birdfood. If you can't get hold of that in Australia, here is another page with the ingredients on it: http://www.gardenbird.co.uk/Ultiva-Softbill-Mix/Bird-Food/GBAR02,default,pd.html Hope that helps, not that I ever worked out how to try to save money on bait making or anything myself

Don't know if it is the answer that Ali Hamidi used, but instead of putting your rig on, use a Breakaway Spinlink attached to the swivel at the end of the mainline and attach the spod to that. Then when you have finished using the Pocket Rocket attach the lead and rig as you would usually

I've been using hooklink braids for absolutely years, since the days of Dacron with very few problems and can't ever recall damaging the mouth of a fish. I did actually do some tests with some braids which after testing I felt were too thin to use for fishing, and they were the Drennan Carp Super Specialist braids. I managed to knock over my workbench in the shed one day and left myself with a nasty cut on the hand from holding the braid attached to a hook in the vice on the workbench. As a result I decided to play around with other braids as well. The braids that are sold as Mainline braids often have a Kevlar weave, and so can and will cause damage to the fishes mouth, yet the majority of specialist hooklink braids don't, especially the Kryston range in the heavier strains from 12lb upwards. I felt that the 6,8 and 10lb versions were a bit risky for a hooklink, although as a hair material Also if you use a coated braid, then the coating can be removed near the hook, but leave the majority of the coating on, so that it is protected against damaging the carps mouth and cheeks during playing

No, the hooklink material sounds like a piece of junk I refuse to use Hybrid after I saw a mate have it fail a number of times, no reason, just gave way at the (recommended) knot to swivel or quicklink or the hook. Korda claim that they have sorted the problem, but I just won't use it, especially as many others have said the same thing, and even DF has said that he has had problems with people returning it. The hooklink materials I use are Kryston Mantis, Merlin, Snakebite, Jackal, SuperSilk (not recently) and Amnesia. I have never had any of them fail, so I have NO need to try anything else Each of them works with the "improved" loop knot shown in the Kryston packing and/or the Uni knot. With the improved loop knot though, be aware that even the layered coating of the coated braids will eventually start to break and come away

The Palomar is one of the few knots that is 100% efficient, but the blood knot is pretty bad in terms of breakage and efficiency in many hooklink materials or mainlines. It is a strangulation knot, and can cut through itself when under pressure. The blood knot is the first knot I used when tying hooks and swivels to mono, and even as a child I used to notice the occasional unexplained breakage from it. Also for tying hooks on it is NOT as tidy as a Uni knot or even knotless or whipping knot, especially if you use the hooklink as a continuation to form the hair. The only material I feel comfortable using a blood knot on is Amnesia for my marker rod boom and leader, although it is rated best for some fluorocarbons, but do lighter blob the tag end to stop it pulling through With a Uni knot in mono or coated and uncoated braids I have not had a breakage unless I have had to pull for a break. In fact I have actually had the combi link knot or braid break before the swivel loop knot in Amnesia.

What is the hooklink material? Fluorocarbons work better with other knots to those that work with mono, braids or coated braids Since I rarely or even never use fluoros I nearly always use the Uni knot for all my fishing to swivels

Somebody hold me back Just keep it simple, it isn't about rigs, its about location, getting the carp feeding and then putting a standard rig where they will feel comfortable taking it. A whole thread on rigs: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=22185

I knew that there was a reason I dislike lead clips. They do NOT give the best answer to fishing, yet down to over marketing they are seen as the be all and end all. It can be a lead clip that due to angler error (not even intentionally), the tail rubber being pushed on a tad too far, the lug not being trimmed back, or the clip itself becoming jammed with weed, and the fish is being played with half a ton of weed, and a lead that is halfway up the line, leading to the whole lot being lost. I much prefer Inline set-ups in weed; Very little weed actually hangs up on an Inline Distance lead, instead masking the hook or fish on the retrieve, making it a whole lot easier to get everything in. The other option is to go to a set-up that is GUARANTEED to lose the lead, not what is sold as being likely to lose it. Attach the lead to a John Roberts bead semi- fixed onto the mainline to hooklink swivel with a paperclip or tie the lead on with a piece of 3 or 4lb mono, or use the proper clips provided and cut the lug at the (mainline side) top so that the lead can be ejected. These clips while not being designed exclusively as the current Lead clips are, worked well and anglers KNEW that they would have to adapt them.