salokcinnodrog

Just add pics: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=37603 There are various lead set-ups on that thread in the pictures and diagrams

If you can save it as an Adobe file on a host server it may be able to be linked to, (the same as pictures and image links) I will see what I can find out.

This ais a quote of mine from another thread: While I applaud the idea, that is not the whole truth, as proteins from different sources sometimes have amino acids in common, and other times some totally different. Carp have a requirement for a certain number of amino acids, and others are synthesized from those already present. Add into that by "blending" proteins you don't necessarily increase the protein content, or even needing a binder can radically drop a protein level. In theory, by having a vegetable protein, a fishmeal or meat meal and a milk protein you have covered all of the essentials as long as you have a bait that ends up around that 35-45% (ish)

So do I

I tie the mainline to the rig swivel. I don't like Quick link clips, I have seen them "let go", had it happen to myself, and watched an angler lose a very big fish when the rubber slipped off one of his. Also the quick link clips allow extra movement on the rig which may negate indication of a pick up at the rod end. To me the fastest and most instant way of getting indication is with no swivel, but an "O" ring buried inside the tail rubber. Not practical to tie mainline and rig to that so I make sure that my rig swivel buried as far as possible inside a tail rubber or rubber tulip bead, with only the rig side sticking out. It also makes it fairly tangler free. While writing this I actually wonder if the quick link clips are responsible for more tangles as well allowing more movement?

Pretty much the same here as the last 2 posts, although I do prefer a longer link when using PVA bags

Do the experiment yourself, it DOES NOT straighten itself out under tension, the twist pulls tight and stays in the leadcore! Sorry I have actually taken the trouble to get into the water and test it. Leadcore is horrible stuff for fishing, and in many cases it is used "so that fish are landed". At times being fished in situations where fishing should not be undertaken because it is so snaggy. The majority of excuses for the use of leadcore are simply down to people who HAVEN'T actually done the tests. What is published in magazines is not always the truth as the editors or whatever simply follow fashion. I have had long debates with magazine editors over it, from where I DID do tests and experiments to prove or disprove its safety. Beanz' comments about it rubbing along the flanks are slightly off the mark as well. Yes, fish damage themselves, particularly, or especially at spawning, but that is a natural phenomenon, NOT one we create. Leadcore can create a burn along the skin, but that burn is not always apparent at the time of the capture. A couple of hours or days later it can start to show up, the same as a burn in humans which may blister or scar but not be immediately apparent. Now lets get back to the "losing the lead on a take". You do NOT want that to happen with a heli set-up, as you would want the weight to "hold" so that the rig can be ejected, otherwise the beads etc will not be able to pull off the leadcore until the leadcore is back under tension.

Hope that is not my Sliding ring version or I will be causing trouble EDIT: Oh dear, they have overcomplicated the issue and made it slightly more ineffective to my eyes. Adding the rig putty is actually stopping the rig working as effectively, and the "Blowback" version is using the current fashion for Blowback rigs to make it a "seller". I don't suppose you have any idea how long that has been on their website? Just asking, as last year I sent off pics of my version above (with schematics underneath) to CarpTalk with a Catch report.

Is this any use? A leadcore free version: A piece of rigid tubing a soft rubber bead or two (if you want the sliding version), tail rubber ring swivel and quicklink style clip for the lead. The pics and ideas are ages old, so they are NOT my current hook patterns.

I had to do some pics to help somebody out the other day for tying a combi-rig, so I will add them onto here: Cut your braid and stiff section to lengths required. I have used black Amnesia for clarity as clear does not show up particularly well on the scanner Tie an overhand knot in the stiff section, but don't pull tight, and thread the braid through the loop. On the braid tie a Uni knot back down around the stiff section, wet them both and pull tight While you can use a standard knotless knot my current version is along the lines of a sliding/revolving version, so I add on a line aligner (shrink tubing not yet shrunk down) and add on a rig ring with hair and a small stop to stop it.

I use it for combi-rigs and stiff links, brilliant stuff. The different colours have different "stiffnesseseses" . The black amnesia is a lot more supple than the clear, green or red It also ties a tidier knot

8 feet of leadcore? Seriously? Yes. 8 feet of leadcore? Seriously? Think someone is JOKING Not joking either. I used to have doubts over using leadcore, like a lot of people do. But i had my choddies set up such a way that the bead would always release if the lead got snagged. Sorry, I am anti Leadcore and many of the reasons why are in this thread: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=32598 It does not take much for the leadcore to kink, and then a lead or bead can get trapped on leadcore, no matter how much pressure you put on the beads CAN get trapped holding the rig in place. I found the pics I mentioned previously on this thread http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=44395&highlight=rubber+bead

There may be some useful info on this thread: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=45767

8 feet of leadcore? Seriously? Think someone is JOKING I had a safe way of using a Silt rig set-up using a piece of rigid tubing ( I did put up pics somewhere): A short length of rigid tubing, ring swivel, 2 rubber beads and/or 1 bead and a tail rubber or stop bead. If you want the rig to be able to slide then put the ring swivel on the tubing and at either end use a rubber bead to hold it. The rig can then slide off the tubing in the event of the fish snagging. If you want it fixed then put the tubing into the tail rubber or stop bead.

Is this any use? http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=33587

By the way, as somebody other than me has pointed out, the Kurvs are almost the same hook as the Centurions, Muggas and an Ashima pattern Yet the Kurvs do NOT hold their point as long as those other patterns.

i'm sorry but that is an unnfair comment to make. The korda wide gape is the most used carp hook on the market,and i haven't yet (touch wood) dropped a fish on a sharp wide gape. i no you are entitled to your opinion but i thought saying they're rubbish is a bit unfair. The most used hook on the market, and many anglers blame other things than a bad hook anyway. I honestly think that Korda hooks are not as good as made out to be. I have used them after persuasion from a friend, and I did lose or even not get fish on them. I'm certain that I had pick-ups with the hooks, but they did not convert into strikable runs. Carp-R-Us Centurions, Kamasan B175's did produce runs from the exact same spot. There are so many people who have been "converted" into Korda Tackle that they won't accept that there is anything wrong with the products, yet in many cases there is, and many anglers won't use them because of that. Go to the "Korda" threads, and for each angler who rates them, there are many who won't. Now when it comes to hook patterns I use those I know work, and after the "missing" fish I will test every pattern to check its performance before I use it in a fishing situation. I have ended up with patterns I'm confident with, B175's, my last few Centurions and Nailers, and Gardner Mugga's.

A question for you... Why do you think that rig tubing is there to prevent lifting scales? You DON'T fish floaters with anti-tangle tubing. I have not lifted or can't remember ever lifting a scale when I fish mainline straight through. The tubing is only used to prevent tangles or to break up the line and prevent it being seen (or felt; vibration, not against the fish). When you fish at any range above about 40metres the line at that range near the end tackle is running along the lakebed anyway

No need for the backstop, and most of the time the tubing stays in the bead with no problems. Use a Solar rig "thingimajig (can't remember its proper name ) push the buffer bead onto the metal tube, and then the tubing into the small hole in the thingimajig, and slide the bead back down onto the tubing. Using a large buffer bead or even a rubber tulip bead it grips the hooklink swivel and does not work free.

actually if you tie a flourocarbon rig with an inturned eye you will notice that the angle can get a little acute between the line and the hook ie something like a fox SR whilst not full out turned will be a lot better I seem to remember a well known angler mentioning that with a standard hook pattern and straight eyed hooks the fluorocarbon was being worn or cut by the hook eye. I seem to think he preferred an extreme inturned eye, and bringing the fluorocarbon out from the back of the eye.

http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=37416 Is that any use?

You've got 2 different answers as to what Dan and Jules find easiest, and here is a 3rd, so you are going to have to work out what suits you. I tie a Uni knot loop at the end my hooklink and tie the hook on knotless knot or a piece of (4lb) mono if I tie a separate hair. Fit pop-up into loop and gently pull it down tight. I don't often use individual pop-ups as hookbaits, but I do usually use a snowman set-up, and tie the hair long enough for the bottom bait to go on as well and still loop the pop-up.

From the experiments I carried out, the brands that the inner leadcore poked out, ESP, Gardner etc, basically all of them after time, and a few casts! One of Levigsp's fishing partners did, and discovered that the rig was running along the fish's cheeks and causing "burns".

I can't put it any other way, but I will advise you NOT to use leadcore in your fishing. The cost is relative, not just the cost of what you gets for your money, but the risks it poses to the fish we love in tethering and dead fish. I may be "one track" minded when it comes to leadcore, but in my honest view, leadcore does NOT give you any advantage in your fishing, and is an absolute risk to the fish, either in marks, scars or the potential for tethering and killing fish. In my view there is NO safe leadcore rig set-up, and Numbers of fish have been found tethered and dead when leaders have been used. Leadcore does NOT hide the rig, in fact it is more visible than a standard mainline, and it does NOT pin the line to the lakebed. Have a read of some of these and then please I ask you, don't even think about using leadcore in your fishing: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=32598 http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=38886&highlight=advanced+carp+fishing http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=40711&highlight=advanced+carp+fishing http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=39794

But why add a fluoro leader (http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=32598), when at any range it is going to serve no useful purpose? At around 40metres, the line is going to have arced down from the rod tip to the lakebed anyway, and is camouflaged against the lakebed.