salokcinnodrog

You can hold the bend in before you put it into the steam, but I make sure that it "stays" by bending it as it comes out. The cold water is just a "quick-fix" instead of letting it cool naturally. Incidentally I think I may have tried Korda tubing and decided that I didn't like it

Firstly as said make sure you get Shrink tube, and get a good quality type! I've used Fox and ESP, and also gone into Electrical shops like Maplins to get Shrink tube, but now use Mo's Co (he has i-net shop or go through E-bay ). I boil the kettle with the rig and shrink tube in the spout, and you should see it shrink as it is in the steam and water vapour, then after is has shrunk, usually within a second or 2 bend it into the shape you want, then while holding this bend put it into cold water and it will stay in shape.

Dan, You know the reason I asked you've seen my set-ups and I feel comfortable using it, however I may well have been fishing in "dirtier" areas of the lake with more rubbish and debris on the bottom, although a few baits have been dropped on gravel features. I wonder if different tubing has different effects, and different smells. I have noticed that when I have used Armourtube on BP that I do get fewer runs, and that is gloss finished. The Solar tubing I use has a "silky", slightly textured feel, as opposed to a totally smooth feel. I wonder if this slight texture allows silt and other debris to settle on it, as opposed to the totally smooth finish (If you have problems seeing or imagining what I mean I mentioned the effect in Leads, Shapes and colours thread: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=22174 ). I also think that some tubing that we use, the plastic absolutely stinks, and that is definitely off putting to my nose, so I wonder if it does the same to carp? I seem to remember Jim Gibbinson commenting on this, and he would take his tubing out of the packaging and leave it for a few weeks before he used it. I take the tubing out of the Solar package (Running Rigs) and put it into a different bag mini bag as I keep all my tubing together. I also have a feeling that it takes out or reduces the vibration of the mainline if fished tight (telegraph/power line effect). I use tubing for the simple reason of using it to protect the mainline and reduce the effects of snag rubbing against mainline. I have landed a couple of fish on waters where the tubing has been rubbed and scraped over gravel, or snags and the tubing has actually been scratched and abraded, yet it has protected the mainline from being rubbed through. That is actually something that I DON'T think that leadcore does, I think that the braided outer of leadcore is more likely to snap and give than tubing, which because of its softness and smoothness (comparitive) doesn't bite into the snag or gravel. One thing I will say, I am confident in Tangle free rigs, my rig placement and with how I fish with tubing, so that in itself may be extra fish anyway

You reckon it effects catch rates? I'm sure that sometimes it does make the rig stand out more, but I think that it doesn't "telegraph" like a tight mono can (vibration).

There is very little chance of mainline removing or pinging a scale, although there is always that miniscule chance, usually with scaly mirrors, but not usually commons. We floater fish with no tubing, and I have not had it happen myself that I can remember. Also a scale will grow back over time. As for Tubing on Running leads, I think it does create a bit more resistance, so I use the softest most supple tubing I can get (Solar) and not a thick tubing that will definitely cause additional problems, also a Run Ring with a large a diameter as possible. With the heavy wire weighted or lined tubing I would think that it is likely not to be as supple as the plastic only tubing available. Using a heavy tubing may mean that you have to use a larger weight so it stays still on the take.

Absolutely loads of answers to this and almost everyone is going to give you a different answer. Further along the page is a thread called "What is the best hook?", and in the UK Rig Tying Stickies, "What is the best bottom bait hook?" Get faith in a particular hook pattern, and then stick with it Now my personal choice is that I avoid Korda hooks and rig materials. I prefer Carp-R-Us hooks, Kryston hooklinks in braid and coated braid, then for mono hooklinks I resort to Berkley XT, Drennan Sub Surface Mono leader (Fly Fishing section) or the last little bit I have left of P-line Floroclear or Carp-R-Us Clearwater for fluoro hooklinks. I hardly ever use anything other than braid or coated braid as I have so much faith in what I do and know that it works for me. To a certain extent match up the hooklinks to what you are fishing for, although most braids less than 15lb may actually be a risk as it is possible for them to cut the fish as they are so fine. I can honestly say that I have never used the KD rig, it is just a currently fashionable rig being pushed by the magazines. You are probably far better using a basic knotless knotted or line aligned hook, and dependant on where you hook the fish playing with the hair and rig length (Threads available). Swivels, hooks, and hooklinks will soon go through £30 Suggestion for you: DO NOT buy Korda, Solar, Nash, Fox or other branded swivels as most are just re-branded from either Mustad, Leeda, Middy or Berkley.

You have all those links to read, and a number of them have pictures of fish which have been tethered and died on a leader or leadcore, and many have personal experiences of anglers who have written about fish tethered and snagged on the same unable to break free, or trailing line, and yet you still use it? I'm sorry, but with all the questions you have asked, it shows your inexperience, and maybe even a little irresponsibility in still using such a risky product. It does not take an angler error in using it for the potential for a fish to become tethered or die because of it, (although the error is in using it!). You have heard about it being used incorrectly, well it can still be dangerous if used correctly, so there is NO correct way to use it safely. The lead core inner may poke out the sheathing and prevent a bead from releasing, and in doing so hold the rig in place. The leadcore may get twisted and kinked, under casting force, and you may get a snap-off, that is another potential dead fish. Don't think that I have no idea what I'm saying, and I am just jumping on the Anti Leadcore bandwagon; I did used to use it, and was happy in its use, until some members on here, Jemsue, Goblin started making me think about its potential for danger. I then lost a fish at SWP where the leadcore leader kept the mainline down in the water as I played a fish, and in doing so, the mainline rubbed through and got abraded on a gravel bar, which eventually cut me off. I left a fish with a length of leadcore trailing behind it. I also retrieved a Safezone leader that had snagged up, covered in weed it was unable to release the rig or the lead. I then tried a series of experiments in the middle of winter, actually getting into the water to see how it landed in the lake, and what happened if it got snagged. While doing this I also pulled in a fish that had gotten snagged up with leadcore around a branch. The fish may have been hooked on a helicopter set-up, but because the leadcore was wrapped around the snag it made no odds, and the fish was snagged and tethered. For your sake, the safety of the fish, and for the happiness of many other anglers, please, dispose of the leadcore, put it in the bin where it belongs and just use mainline (and tubing) straight through. If you are worried about whether tubing puts fish off, look at my results this year, and I use tubing to protect the mainline from rubbing over the gravel on the lake I'm fishing and protect from snags. I may have lost a few, but I do KNOW that the most the fish is trailing is a short hooklink.

Brought this up again... I wonder how many of these re-invented rigs are causing confusion and bewilderment to current anglers? The majority of experienced anglers all say put the basic simple rig in the right place, with the right bait and you will catch, yet the magazines are advocating all singing all dancing "new" super rigs, yet many probably only catch because of the numbers of people using them. Possibly more fish are caught on a basic knotless knotted/line aligned rig than the rest put together, but the newcomer doesn't know that, the magazines are telling the whole truth in an effort to sell. Now I know I went complicated this year, to the Sliding rig, and I "accidentally" re-named a rig last year a version of the 1up 1down in an attempt to throw a blind as I was testing something out on my lake. My difference was the 1up was a pop-up chopped in half, making it look like a mushroom off the lakebed. No matter what happens I still say that in most fishing put the most simple rig in the right place, with the right feeding situation, be that bed of groundbait, particles boilies or pellets and then looking at hookholds and even "dropped" fish change the hair or rig length accordingly, you will catch.

Have Fun: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=32598 http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=40970 http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=39794 http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=41527 http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=38886 I've given you plenty to read on those threads, some or even most of your questions may be answered on them. Hopefully it will persuade you how much of a danger Leadcore is to Carp fishing, and that the use of a leader is not needed at all in most cases except for Distance Fishing.

You have PM

Near Ipswich you have GAPS, FMS and obviously you know about Ladywood. The best bet on all of them is to go into either Markhams or Viscount and ask. Albie used to use Viscount as his local shop

Is this any use? http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=22185 A pic of a combi rig with some other rigs that can be used for Snowman baits Or this Snowman rig thread: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=42194&highlight=snowman And there are more available through the search

Careful, you putting words into peoples mouth, although the thought that you need to get out and experience things may definitely help you had sprung to mind By the way, Santa Claus did exist, he was an Eastern European or Turk (can't remember which) who did go around at Christmas time giving gifts to those who were struggling to survive, hence why we remember Saint Nicklaus or a turk???? are they not easten europeans then??? that still dont narrow it down , that could include us if you're irish Correct, some Turks are not Eastern European, but actually Asian, check where the border is, The Bosphorus, running right through Istanbul I've said it to you before; As much as you can learn from the forum, when it comes down to YOUR fishing, the only way to learn relating to YOUR fishing is for you to try things out. You have an idea of rigs, or hook set-ups, and how to get the best rig for your fishing, even then it is dependant on whether small fish are a nuisance or not, and that information I gave you in my previous post. Now it is down to YOU as to how you utilise that information. Then when you have learnt from the fishing it will be a lesson for you to remember, that is called EXPERIENCE

Careful, you putting words into peoples mouth, although the thought that you need to get out and experience things may definitely help you had sprung to mind By the way, Santa Claus did exist, he was an Eastern European or Turk (can't remember which) who did go around at Christmas time giving gifts to those who were struggling to survive, hence why we remember Saint Nicklaus

For ways to attach the actual maggots to the hook try this: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=26868&highlight=maggot+rig I found it on the search facility by typing in "Maggot rig", clicking search all terms, then specified Rig Tying section I'll tell you that there are others, I just picked the first that the mouse hovered over... As for the lead attachment or set-up, work out what you want to do; whether the small fish are going to be a nuisance, if they are then you may need maximum indication as a semi-fixed set-up may NOT tell you if small fish have robbed you blind, but with a running lead set-up you will know if small fish are in the area. Alternatively using plenty of maggots the carp may just sit there and scoff, and you may need to force them to panic and bolt

I would suggest that you beg, steal or borrow a copy Of River Carping by Neal Wayte. The River Soar has its own chapter with stretches that are worthwhile targetting, some areas, and even who does what tickets. It may be a few years old, but I reckon it may still be a useful read

why dont they like it? does it frey? It is not a rated hooklink now , but back when stiff mono links were the rage it was (and still is) one of the best going. I would think that many or possibly most Sea Anglers still use Amnesia, it is fairly abrasion resistant as well, and toughness is demanded in Sea fishing. Available in white (clear), red, black or green (green is difficult to find). I found that the black is softest, but may be more obvious on the lakebed than the other colours. It also makes a good shockleader in the 30lb Strain, and I use it in combi-links as the stiff upper section even now

Beanz, The lack of bait may only be a theory, but at range even with a bait boat, it is very difficult to get freebies around the hookbait. With a throwing stick boilies can miss by miles; well as much as 10 metres and it may look close to the marker float, add into that the drift, which even a bait boat can't cover, as bait drops down from a boat it still spreads over a wide area (Carpology article, January this year). A spod does not guarantee getting close. Those singles that were fished, may be genuine attempts at singles, but I reckon in many cases it was the over-flavoured pop-ups, and many were fishing single bottom baits anyway, without intending to. A current phenomenon in fishing is that we all bait up with pellets, particles, spod mix, but very rarely use Food source boilies in our mix (most Dynamite Shelfies are NOT food source, but part of a package), and very few are actually fishing a correctly pre-baited and applied food source. The food source boilie fished as a single hookbait may well continue to work if they are being regularly baited up with (http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=27808) At range you have to get the best out of your rig, the lack of indication means that by the time you get the bleep on your buzzer, you only get the indication from fish that take the bait and charge off. A single bleep may be missed as it is lost through the line stretch. At range say 100metres, you could possibly not get indication until the fish has reached 120metres (assuming 20% mono stretch), and even the carp can move the lead 20% in any direction until your (HEAVY) indicator pulls the line down on a drop back, or until the stretch is taken up as the fish runs away from you. It is actually why I prefer running rigs wherever possible. Even at range, there is no tension holding the line, and because the line is not under pressure that line can be pulled through a run ring, so you still get a "proper" run. I have seen even at relatively short ranges a semi-fixed lead pulled in a perfect arc, no movement on the indicator, and no sound from the buzzer. So to my view, you need an absolutely reliable 100% sharp hook, an effective hooking rig, which will change from water to water, but it has to be tangle free. Braids can be a 'mare to fish at long range, unless you can guarantee that they won't tangle, which can be done with the use of Kryston Superstiff. The shorter the rig, then the less chance you have of tangles as well.

Have a read of this: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=33587

yeah i have that biting the nails syndrome what about the korda stripper i know its not that good on certain ones but i worth a go. For six or so quid cheaper than ya next dentist bill Thumb nail or teeth, and mine are all my own Apparently the childrens plastic safety scissors are supposed to be good for stripping or cutting the coating

thanks Sam, Don't forget that is just my view Other people love Lead clips, and in perfectly clear waters, they may be the best or easiest way to attach a lead to the mainline. I don't like them personally, I have alternative ways of attaching the lead, preferring to use a running set-up 9times out of 10. If I do use a Semi-Fixed set-up a running lead can be used, but just fish with a tight line Or the alternative I like is actually the John Roberts Beads. They can be adapted to eject the lead EVERY time the fish get snagged and create no sharp angles for anything to catch up on.

Long range fishing you need to be as streamlined and as tidy as possible. The same rigs should work, but the hookpulls may be down to not having enough feed at the long range area. You may not be getting the fish so confident in their feeding, and so they are not so comfortable taking the bait. You might need to increase the weight on the indicator, or go the other way, and if possible use Running leads and slack lines. Not always practical at range I know, but it can work very well. Probably the tidiest and most streamlined lead set-up for long range is a helicopter set-up. The lead tows everything behind it. It could possibly be that your braid rigs are tangling at that sort of distance, and you don't know about it. It may even be that you are striking at line bites, and at that range you are feeling like you are hooking a fish, and then it "gets lost". The one thing I would do is usually drop the hooksize, or lengthen the hair or rig length when I start losing fish to hookpulls. So much to potentially be wrong, and so little information really as each water is different, but if you can get more bait out there see if that makes any difference first if the same rig works closer in

Bin the Lead clips, horrible things Don't work near snags, and a running lead can be tied on near snags. Even an inline can often slide over snags, whereas a lead clip even with ejected lead can catch up

Thread moved into UK Where to fish section http://www.fizzwig.co.uk/markham/lake.html I believe I also mentioned it on the Suffolk venues thread

As per my post on NW: I can add on here this little piece that may also assist: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=37603. Its a link to various Lead set-ups with some pics. Also go to the search facility at the top of the page, and type in Running leads vs Semi-fixed as your search criteria, and there is another thread in Advanced Carp Fishing section that may offer some more help