salokcinnodrog

Answered

If I give a full explanation then it seems patronising, yet what you forget is that other people NOT just yourself read threads and opinions, and may need a full answer or explanation. If I had just given a 3 word answer of "Use the Chod" you would have been happy, but it didn't agree with what you wanted to hear. In fact you trying to tell me about how Silt rigs and Chod rig got their name put my back up as I am pretty sure that I probably have a very long memory regarding a vast number of rigs, baits and tackle, in many cases long before some of todays anglers were born. Frank Warwick christened the Chod rig "the Short rig" Just put it this way, I've fished in the 70's, 80's, 90, 00's and now the 10's. Work out how many decades that is! You asked for advice, and I gave you advice and my opinion and some of it from PERSONAL EXPERIENCE! I would totally avoid Helicopter set-ups unless I absolutely have to, and the clue in that personal experience is in this line: 20years ago I was playing around with bomb on the end of the line set-ups and found that that was a fault that they had going against them. It meant that even with 20lb leaders I was losing fish, where even the shockleader was giving way. Then we switched over to that horrible poxy stuff called leadcore, which is something I dislike with a passion after finding out for myself how much of a risk it is in fishing. As for Jim Shelley, then I still honestly don't care, I have had personal contact with him, and sometimes what the great and famous do, is not always the best in terms of fish safety There are other rigs that are effective with a great hooking potential, and many a whole lot easier to set up on a standard lead set-up. Now I fish a water that is very silty; no matter how hard I search I still can't find a hard bit of bottom in the lake, it is very thick (smelly) silt, yet I haven't had to resort to Silt set-ups with the bomb on the end of the line yet, and I have had a fair number of fish out on limited number of sessions.

It wasn't Frank Warwick who christened the short rigs on a helicopter the Silt rig, it was Tim Paisley, shortened from the terminology from "bomb-on-the-end-of-the-line" as he put it "for brevity's sake" The Chod rig terminology came from a conversation between Terry Hearn and Jim Maylin when one asked the other "What's the bottom like out there?" The reply was "its a bit choddy". And Jim Shelley also had to change away from the Silt rig on a number of waters, because it didn't sit right, and wasn't hooking fish Just because someone "famous" does something, it DOES NOT mean that other methods won't work. I use Combi rigs, so I do know how stiffer hooklinks come off the swivel, being as Amnesia is a VERY stiff hooklink material Which is WHY I gave you the picture, so you could see a lead link.

The SILT rig set up (its proper name, NOT Chod, which stands for Claggy Horrible Old Detritus, or something similar), is designed for Silt fishing, NOT in weed, but has been (badly) adapted for any situation (by those who are too lazy to do anything else Actually the hooking ability of a Helicopter set-up is not great, and can be responsible for more lost fish than standard set-ups, some of which since you didn't get any indication you won't even know about. The angle of pull is across the line, so a ring swivel on mainline can weaken the line by rubbing, and then under pressure it breaks, also that angler of pressure can also lead to high numbers of hookpulls. It is something that Tim Paisley wrote about years ago when he was fishing The Mangrove Swamp in Big Carp Summer in his book Big Carp. Just because a lake is silty, or gravel, sand or clay you DON'T have to use a Helicopter/Rotary set-up. You could fish a standard set-up incorporating a semi-fixed or running lead, effectively a paternoster That way using a weak link, you can be sure that the lead will break free if required. Or by using (the only good use for) a Leadcore link, it will pull the lead down into the silt. The lead pulls everything behind it, reducing tangles, and with a flat (pear/bottle) lead, is less likely to sink right into the lakebed. Pictured below in the quotes is the set-up that Derek Ritchie used to land a number of fish in a water he was fishing, and Danny Fairbrass liked it so much he published it in his book The Korda Guide to Rig Making, or something along those lines You can play around with the length of the lead link, and also the breaking strain so that you get it sorted for how you need to fish

Fine mono works just as well In fact I tie my snowman baits on with fine mono. Don't confuse yourself with rigs. In most cses a knotless knot rig will work, and is easy to adjust dependant on how the carp are taking. The first thing to look at is your hair length, simply by adjusting that you can get your hookholds in the right place. For my reference I look at where I hook (or lose) carp. If it is right back in the mouth the hair is too long, if I'm getting right at the front of the mouth or losing fish then the hair is too short, in the centre of the bottom lip, perfect. Also how you feed or quantity can change where you are hooking fish. These may offer some help: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=37603 http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=22185

I made that 34 at a quick count. You have OCD, need serious help and I reckon tablets are the only answer. I know I've got about 25 tied up, and as I use a rig and change it after each fish grab a new one out of the rig bin. When I get home or during my quiet times fishing I tie up a new rig to replace it. A few specific pop-up rigs, and the rest are mostly my "specialised" snowman sliding set-ups for my season ticket water.

It may be a total blanket ban as (mainline) braids are very thin and can cut fish if used straight through or as a hooklink, in fact a few hooklink braids fall into that category if they are so fine; Which is actually the reason why in many cases we fish with a higher breaking strain hooklink than the mainline I.E, 12lb Mainline and 25lb Hooklink If a water has a braided (mainline and hooklink) line ban I am quite happy using mono or fluoro. We all worry about how a hooklink behaves in water. Most rigs work anyway, whether they fall into thumb or palm test as failures. I know a number of big name anglers who use mainline and mono as their hooklinks, Paddy Webb and Lee Jackson fell into this category for a long time. Either use a finer mono for your hair, or continue the hooklink through with the knotless knot. You could simply tie your hook on as opposed to knotless knot, and then use silicon or shrink tubing over the knot. It worked before we had these finer braided hooklinks (Dacron being the first), and will still work today.

More than 2 types of tubing, as you have also forgotten the joys of plain ordinary silicon tubing that can be used on hooks, often faster and easier than using shrink tube, especially if you are tying up rigs on the bank I also use shrink and silicon tubing on the hooks to create line aligners, which I have confidence in, and although they may be easy, sometimes a standard knotless knotted hook does not catch hold, so the line aligner can be useful. If I can get away with it, I would be quite happy fishing without Anti-Tangle tubing on the mainline, although I'm confident in its use, as a bit of extra protection against snags and gravel rub. http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=22185 http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=35896

You're mixed up! A balanced bait rig can be as simple or as complicated as you want to make it. A balanced (2) hookbait can be a snowman hookbait, or you can drill out a boilie and then fill it with foam core, and how much you use, you'll have to play with for each hookbait. You can use a standard knotless knot presentation or you can faff about trying different things, but why make life complicated? http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=50409&highlight=balanced+baits http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=47555&highlight=balanced+baits

I have not fished any lead set-up other than a running lead for over 5years Any use? http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=26640 http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=27479

The snowman is a bit difficult to work out. Sometimes its success may be down to the baits being "lighter" and so possibly more easily sucked in, yet at times, the "wobble" of the bait may get the fish to not accept it. I very rarely fish (overflavoured high visibility) pop-ups at all, I much prefer bottom baits or snowman set-ups, and I may be missing out, but pop-ups can possibly blow and work against you. This thread may also offer some help: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=32834

I know that if we look at rigs in the water, we are (usually) only looking from a margin point of view, and we have carefully laid the rig down. In my case my not switching from braid is because it works for me; I have great confidence in my hooklinks. I know that with the way I set them up they are pretty tangle free, and I want to allow the movement that I feel braid offers over the stiffness of fluorocarbon. You're catching, so what you are currently doing works If you are catching there may well be no reason to change, however, if you are using 2 rods, then try a braided hooklink on one and fluoro on the other, and see which produces most fish. That may mean swapping rods over at times, putting your fluorocarbon hooklink where you have had your braid and vice versa. Compare the results, and get your confidence in what you are doing, preferably with both There probably are times when one material will outfish the other, don't know why, it happens, then all of a sudden it can switch back.

The majority of my braided hooklinks are closer to 30cms long, that is for coated and uncoated braids, come to that for most of my hooklinks all together The rig pic I was thinking of is on this thread: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=42738&highlight=rig+camouflage The most important thing is that you put your rig where the food is, on the silt if the carp feed on, or in it of they dig to get their food, so for that you will have to play with the rig length.

Kryston Heavy Metal. Moulds around absolutely everything and sticks exactly where its put, mono, fluoro, braid coated and uncoated. As for Korda sinkers on pop-ups, I just use small olivettes for pole fishing if it is a very buoyant pop-up, or I want an overweighted bait

Not just Adrenaline, the majority of monos take a lot of time to rest on the lakebed, even if they are described as sinking. It is not until they have taken on water that they eventually settle; part of the reason that it can take so long to get a mono line to sink to the lakebed when fishing running leads and slack line. Sure we may want to have a looped up hooklink, weighted at the lead/mainline end and with the weight of the hook and bait at t'other, but I would much rather have a hooklink that was flat out laying on the lakebed, which even then will take some attention to achieve as most hooklinks do loop up to some extent

Rodney The lake I fish is sometimes very clear, but usually cloudy. When it is clear normally around February to March, the water is so clear you can see the bottom in 15feet of water (and all of the snags if people bothered to look). Even then I still use my coated and stripped braided or combi-rig hooklinks. I do have a picture somewhere of a clear winter margin with a braided rig in it. I know that in the middle of the lake is totally different in terms of what the fish can or can't see, but this margin picture convinced me that sometimes we may try too hard to camouflage everything when we have no need. I'd use fluorocarbon not for its invisible properties, but actually for its different behaviour regarding stiffness and how the fish were taking the bait. Is this any use? http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=33587

I don't like mono as a hooklink with pop-up rigs, I feel that they lack finesse, the curve of the mono is not allowing the hooklink to lay flat and then vertical if that makes sense. I much prefer the method I put in one of your other rig threads, to tie a Uni knot loop at the end of a coated (and partially stripped) or uncoated braid and then attach the hook with a KK. Also the pattern of the hook I prefer is a Kamasan B175, I don't feel a curve shank hook is right for pop-ups. No need for shrink tube For Gardner Muggas, I still prefer my braided (coated and a stripped section or uncoated hooklinks), but use them only for bottom or snowman set-ups, where the snowman is an 18mm bottom bait with a 15mm pop-up above it, or the winter alternative a 15mm bottom bait, with a trimmed down pop-up to only just sink the bait and hook. The hook is attached with a Uni knot and line aligner.

I'm lazy, my standard pop-up rig is braid or coated braid. I tie a uni knot loop in the end of the hooklink material (coated braid is stripped back approximately one third of its length), put a pop-up in the loop and pull tight. I then attach hook with a knotless knot, and make sure that the bait is very tight to the hookshank. The distance I want the pop-up above the bottom I put a piece of putty on the hooklink. With the coated braid, it is usually where the braid has been stripped to. Its simple, easy to tie, and it works for me and has done so for a lot of years, but I noticed Cobleyn has different thoughts, so you will have to get confident in an arangement for yourself to see what works best. I very rarely put a stringer or pva bag or even stick around a pop-up hookbait, the added accoutrements can drag the hook down into the bottom debris and mask the hookpoint. I may add a stringer to the hooklink swivel, but NEVER the hook itself

A snowman can be a critically balanced bait, the pop-up balancing the weight of the bottom bait, or it can be a pop-up, with both baits lifted off the bottom, or just using a pop-up to provide attraction to a heavy bottom bait. Don't confuse yourself with rigs In most cases a simple knotless knotted rig will work, for pop-ups or bottom baits. Simply tie a loop at the end of a length of hooklink material, and attach a hook with a knotless knot. If you prefer a "tied on" hook, then use a good knot, and attach a hair (fine breaking strain mono or hair braid/dental floss) by going through the hook eye and tie a bog standard blood knot, and to protect the lot I put a piece of shrink tube over the eye of the hook and down the shank to get the hair leaving the shank in the right place. That bog standard rig will work in most places This should keep you busy and hopefully some interesting reading http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=33587 http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=22185 http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=35896 http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=37416

Braid all the time. I do not possess any fluorocarbon hooklink material of any kind. Last time it was used was with an adjustable zig rig, can't remember the last time I used a fluoro rig on the bottom

Nick- what've you done??? You know that's going to cost you a few hook pulls Didn't say that I had dropped a fish on one of my old patterns though due to me pulling too hard though did I And not forgetting a snapped combi- hooklink down to me being careless and lazy

I'm sticking with the Gardner Muggas now. Them and the B175's are now the only hooks I have left in the tackle box. I don't see a need to change, I know they work, go in and stay in, in clear and snaggy waters. I can honestly say that since I have been using Muggas I have not dropped a fish (kiss of death that ), and I'm fishing for big fish

I'm not 100% on dropping the lead on a heli setup. I work on the assumption that the lead dragging on the lakebed will allow the rig to slide up and off the mainline at the "broken" end, using the weight to make the rig safe. I know the theory that the rig can then slide off either end, but it still doesn't quite sit right in my limited brain power. The rig could be halfway up the leader or line and both ends are trailing with "equal" pressure, and so the rig is trapped until one or both ends snags, which could actually be as fatal as having a rig that couldn't slide off the line anyway. I don't particularly like helicopter set-ups, especially its current favourite Chod. Helicopter set-ups on many occasions have a swivel rubbing over the line which can lead to your mainline (or leader) being abraded by the swivel. It doesn't take a nick or mark in the swivel to wear line, the metal itself could be enough to eventually break the line, usually under pressure of a fish. Properly fished with a helicopter bead or a version I came up with years ago using a short length of rigid tubing the helicopter set-ups should be as safe for fishing, but they DON'T necessarily give full bite indication at the rod end. The most important part is that the rig CAN slide off the mainline or leader, so that the most a carp (or any other fish) is trailing is just a short hooklink.

A whole thread from a month or so ago, all about fishing with maggots http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=51663&highlight=fishing+maggots Found via the search facility, when I could get my fingers to interact with my brain and the keyboard in the correct order

Hooklink is from the mainline join all the way through to the hook. The hair is possibly a continuation of the hooklink material if the hook is tied onto that line with a "knotless knot". (http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=22185) Coated braid, it has an additional stiffening, protective coating or layer over (uncoated) braid, that can usually be stripped off. The inner core may be the same as other uncoated braids available. I'm not sure that versatile is quite the right word, but I understand what you mean. If you are convinced that matching the hooklink (trace in US methodology) to the bottom you are fishing over, then you may want want that matches perfectly. Braids can be "folded" up over themselves and the whole lot put into a PVA bag along with the hook and bait, whereas you couldn't do that with mono or fluorocarbon without crinkling. Of the Kryston products you have mentioned, I have used them all, coated and uncoated, and had no problems. I bought a spool of Merlin about 4 years ago, and for the cost of that spool, it is still going, and I do go through a fair number of hook links each year. I think that I also bought Mantis at the same time, and again, that spool is still going.