salokcinnodrog

Does this come to any use? http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=22185 Also while in that section of the forum, I believe that there is a lead set-up thread with a few other safe set-ups available

Years ago when it was known as the Silt rig I discovered problems with dropping fish on that tyope of set-up, no matter what size lead I used. I felt that the fish is pulling at an angle that is not natural to the mainline, i.e. the lead is at the end, and the fish pulling at approximately 90degrees instead of you pulling directly to the fish. With the Silt Rig I found I had to play fish very carefully and very "slowly", almost no pressure, let them do what they wanted, and if they needed any stick to keep them away from trouble then the hook would often pull, or even worse (naked mainline) the mainline would snap as the swivel wore the line through. Since then as much as possible I avoid Helicopters of any sort, much preferring a more "standard" set-up. As Jules mentions, do you have to use a helicopter style set-up? Unless the silt is really deep and you simply don't have any choice, then a pendant or inline lead with a longer hooklink is often far better.

I have no end of problems getting 15lb line through Korda tubing and refuse to buy the stuff because of that. I have no problems with Fox, Solar or Korum tubing, and buy their complete run ring kits. Cut the mainline at an angle and it should feed straight through the tubing with no problems. If it does cause a problem, put the run ring on the tubing, and attach a lead, the tubing is then held straight, and the line should go straight through it.

I bought Delkims in the 90's, and when I had tackle stolen in 2000ish I replaced them with the same model, which is now I think the Standard that they sell. I have never had a fault that is not of my own making, (leaving batteries in to corrode ), and even then Delkim repaired them at minimal cost. I have used them in boiling heat and monsoon rain, and they have not failed in any way. The reason I choose Delkim is that I wanted an alarm that had variable volume, tone and sensitivity. The tone is because I have problems hearing low tones, and found that their was a particular higher level tone that grabbed my attention better. Volume obviously speaks for itself, I want to be able to turn the volume down during the day, and occasionally I needed to be able to have a high volume at night when I couldn't use a sounder box or receiver, (or the receiver battery failed). The sensitivity issues, as good as roller wheels are with proper runs or dropbacks, at times I found I was missing takes when fish didn't take line, but I could see the line twitching. I occasionally struck line movement with no bleeps and found myself connected to fish, so the vibration sensing was a useful positive reason for being used. Now the alarms I have are over 10years old, and as I said I have had no problems with them. Some faults are caused by user error, the battery case issue could be a case in point. Delkim recommend using Duracell or Kodak batteries, and for good reason, they are slightly larger than cheaper square models, and so press against the battery slide. Some issues though are obviously as time goes on due to faulty materials, batches or waterproof problems. I can't comment on current models as mine still work and I have no reason to change just yet

This any use? http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=34983

If it is safe enough then I won't use anything, mainline straight through to the running lead and end tackle. However, most of the time I seem to end up fishing near snags, and have confidence in a length of tubing.

Fish with what you have confidence with! I nearly always use braid or combi links, because they suit my fishing, yet the simplest and easiest material to use is simply mono, the same as your mainline. Look at how the fish feed in your lakes, see what works best, and use whatever seems to provide the best hookholds in your fishing, whatever material. Somewhere in UK Carp Fishing a while ago there was a debate on the merits of fluoro or mono over braid (in a thread about putting the rig in PVA http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=50214), my view is that braid allows better movement when the fish picks up the hookbait, mono or fluoro can't extend any further on a pick up, or even suck if the fish suck food from a distance. Simply, don't confuse yourself with rigs, a simple knotless knotted rig will catch the vast majority of fish in the waters, and what appears to be inefficient with the palm or thumb test, can well be very efficient when the bait and rig is put into the fish in a way that they are happy to feed over. So get the feeding situation right, and the simplest basic rig will work If you don't get hookups, then the first thing to do is extend the rig or hair length.

In that case avoid the Korda stuff then Seriously as much as I dislike nearly all of the Korda stuff, because it is often "overpriced tat", they do have occsional items that suit your fishing. Get confident in whatever you use, be it John Roberts, Solar, Fox, Nash or whoever. I have used Kryston hooklinks since the 90's and see no reason to change. Hooks I use Gardner, Gamakatsu, Drennan and Carp-R-Us hooks when I can get hold of what I want. Tubing, rig bits is whoever makes what I need, again, Fox, Solar, John Roberts and other manufacturers all have their place in my box. The only Korda items I use at the moment are leads in certain shapes and sizes, simply cos I have them and they suited me when I was in the shop.

I'll be happy for you to post them on here (http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=22185) if you are happy with them :

The pop-up sits on top of the bottom bait, bit like a snowman really

I simply have mine with the hook laying on its side with the snowman baits sitting alongside it, the pop-up counterbalances the bottom bait (15mm p-u against 18mm bb)

Sliding helicopter set-ups (Chod) in weed although publicised as the "be all and end all" are not necessarily the best option either A normal pop-up rig can be fished on any type of presentation, be it helicopter, (fixed or sliding), pendant, (running or semi-fixed) or inline, whereas a chod rig is usually a sliding presentation to present a bait above (its original purpose) the silt. A paternostered set-up can be better, more indication at the rod end, less risk of snapping up (on a fish or otherwise), and less chance of leaving a tethered fish

Don't forget that you can counterbalance a pop-up so that it becomes critically balanced Or even overweight it. A pop-up is usually a bait presented above the lakebed, but a pop-up bait can be used on a rig on the lakebed or even in the silt. Even a zig rig is a pop-up or buoyant bait of some sort presented well above the lakebed. Bet that makes it as clear as mud

An honest answer here, and one that people overlook is Emmcee's point about the "thumb" and "palm" tests. There are many hookrigs that would fail both tests, yet work effectively and catch plenty of fish, and nicely hooked in the bottom lip. Years ago I first started using the D-rig for bottom and pop-up baits, it is effective with both. The hooks I have been using for a while have been curved shank hooks, in the picture on this thread http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=22185 I think from memory was a Carp-r-Us Nailer or Centurion hook. That is not the only brand that will work, as the Gamakatsu GP204, the Gardner Muggas are similar patterns, and there are others. You've found a preference for you with an out turned eye hook, that does not make it less effective, just bear in mind that what works for you is not the same preference that everyone else has.

Don't make me think, thats not fair You're picking up on something that is true, although there is the miniscule possibility that a carp may just happen across the hooklink from the lead side, and "picks it up" with its mouth clamped over the lakebed as well, in that case even a running lead rig is at full extension with no hope of movement, yet with a non extended rig there is still the possibility of movement away.

I've used Kryston hooklink materials for years, starting with Silkworm, but after playing around found that I was more comfortable with Merlin, as I felt it to be less buoyant. Since then I've used Merlin, SuperNova, and Silkworm, and have found no need to change as they work for me, and I have faith in what works without changing. Do you currently have more than one then, ready to go?? If so, why is this? Oh and not forgetting I like SuperSilk as well which although white when brand new takes on the colour of the lakebed. Current Kryston hooklinks in the tackle box are the SuperNova and the Merlin. Simply a case of using what I think is required at the time, maybe for matching to the colour of the lakebed, or maybe because I feel like trying something different if I haven't been catching. There is that little bit of room for experimentation in my fishing, and if a rig is sat there for 24hours or so and I haven't caught I will check and/or change it. http://www.kryston.com/index.php Although Cobleyn says that the braids will float and loop up, to be honest that is actually a feature of many other hooklinks, (even monos) as they often sit in a loop from lead to hook unless weighted down, so the rubbing putty or even dirt or mud from the bankside is worthwhile if you are worried about it. A big advantage with braids is that they are supple, allowing plenty of movement both laterally and longitudinally. To make it simple, they can move from side to side as well as extend out, which to me is something I want. If you use a hooklink of any material that is fully extended then the hook can't move away from the lead if a fish sucks or picks up in its lips. Some fish may suck a bait, but if it doesn't move towards it, then becomes what may be termed a source of danger and the hookbait is left. If a fish attempts to pick up the bait, and it is fully extended, then it may simply pull the hookbait out of the mouth without any proper take. The other feature to stop tangling is another Kryston product called Superstiff, a pva style gel that you coat your hooklink with which under water dissolves and allows it to return to its supple state.

I've used Kryston hooklink materials for years, starting with Silkworm, but after playing around found that I was more comfortable with Merlin, as I felt it to be less buoyant. Since then I've used Merlin, SuperNova, and Silkworm, and have found no need to change as they work for me, and I have faith in what works without changing.

Is there anything on this that is of use? A Leader free Silt/Helicopter set-up that I designed years ago http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=37603

To an extent yes, but the diameter of some braids in a lower strain could well cut the fishes mouth to ribbons. Most of the time if you get a break off, then as long as the lead or rig can release (and not all lead clips will do that) the fish is just trailing a short length of line and/or a hooklink. If you get a knot give way, it is usually the first knot that gives, that being the mainline to quicklink or swivel knot, result the fish just trailing a short hooklink. When there is NO WEIGHT on the line a fish can usually eject even a barbed hook with few problems

A fair few people use the same line for their hooklink as their mainline, with the standard mainline to hooklink swivel as the join. A Mono hooklink doesn't tangle as easily as a braided one. For the hair I use either hair braid from ESP being as I bought some years ago and still have some left, or 4lb mono. Unlike HNV I tie a blood or uni knot with it through the eye of the hook, and then silicon or shrink tubing over the eye/shank to hold it in place, and a Uni knot to attach the hook to the hooklink.

Dave Lane at Suffolk Water Park caught a number of fish by feeding floaters and fishing a zig underneath them when they came to their "dead zone" against the rushes. Fox produce an adjustable Zig rig kit, although I haven't used one, I prefer a submerged float and a 30-60cm hooklink and then work it up the water rather than top down. If you prefer though with the adjustable zig you can go top down just by reeling in the line slightly. Is there anything in this of any use? http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=34983

Not new, but try Beekay Guide to Carp Rigs (may be worth Googling Beekay), Korda also did a Guide to Rigs, and Gardner do a small guide Also chapters in Tim Paisleys Big Carp, To Catch a Carp, and Hutchy The Carp Strikes Back amongst others. You also have some of the free DVD's from Nash, Korda and the like, which probably have a bit in them, just remember that they are an advert as well. However in most cases, keep it simple, a standard Knotless knotted rig will work although occasionally a Line aligner may make for better hooking and possibly anti ejection. The most important thing is putting the rig in the right place and getting the feeding situation right You also have: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=22185

Chris, I used to fish bent hooks, didn't see much damage, but long before they were banned, stopped using them, because of the fact that on some fish they had definitely caused major mouth damage, and anglers had expressed concerns in the magazines (no forums around all those years ago). I DIDN'T cause harm to the fish I was fishing for (large carp over 20lb+), but the pattern or use did cause mouth damage to plenty of smaller carp with smaller mouths. Sorry, leadcore CAN cause damage to carp, some not immediately apparent, as well as the obvious tethering. Leadcore is abrasive, and can rub a "blister" or burn type scar on the fish. I have caught fish, when I was using leadcore that hadn't been caught for years, yet when I landed them there were fresh red marks on the flank where the leader would rub, and NO fresh hookholds in the mouth, or on another fish , what looked like black lines across the flanks. Levigsp, who is also a very good angler and has landed some big (no publicity style) fish has also done experiments and seen the same sort of damage that I mention. Moorsey has also had to kill a fish that had picked up a rig attached to leadcore (helicopter style as well) and the fish could not eject the rig. It had passed through a number of weedbeds, and what started off as a small twig was totally engulfed in weed, and the fish had a broken jaw preventing it from ever feeding again. For the rest of the argument on Leadcore I will pass onto this thread: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=32598, and also do a copy and paste, cos this thread will go nowhere further if we are just making the same arguments again.

Good replie mate but i started chod fishing coping Jim's style years ago fishing light leads 1-1.5oz and lengths of leadcore upto 10ft long (yes you've read it right lads) i fished the same setup as jim exsplained to me and found it had advantages and disadvantages, the reason behind using such a long length of leadcore is its the lenght and weight of the leadcore that hooks the fish not the lead as it the last thing to come into play. I don't and never will use such a long lenght of leadcore again for certain reasons as it very difficult to cast it out and be target with such a long length and i think its unsafe and careless to do so. However like you i will contiune to use leadcore upto 4-6ft depending on the situation or flourocarbon straight through again depending on the situation im faced with.. It seems to me nearly everyone on this forum is againest the use of leadcore for 1 reason or another. I think to many people are to quick to jump on the band wagon without having any knowledge of the product. So i put this to you all .... If its that bad Magazines would'nt feature it. Every Top well known angler thats in the public eye would be againest it. And tackle companies would'nt produce it.... Tell me why?????? I don't mean to get peoples backs ups and i dont mean to be a bore.. Chris, I took the trouble to do a load of experiments with leadcore, in and out of the water, and sorry to say it, I even troubled to e-mail one of the magazines who featured leadcore rigs, and to be honest the reply I got was less than explanatory. The magazines have been promoting unsafe leadcore set-ups, so YES the magazines do make light or ignore the potential risks of its use. Not only do they ignore the risks they don't explain the safety aspects of WHERE and how to use it properly. Many items of tackle are sold simply because of the money that they make. You don't need a fluorcarbon leader in most fishing, it doesn't always disappear and can be visible underwater. At much above 40metres I reckon the line is running down in an arc and along the lakebed anyway, a clear or camouflaged line is less visible against the lakebed. Leadcore stands out against the lakebed, a 1mm visible line or a 0.35mm line that is hard to distinguish. Lead clips, you don't necessarily need them, they don't always do the job said on the tin, yet are seen as the way to attach lead to the line for all purposes. In fact the simplest way to catch carp is often to forget what is published and go back to basics, mainline straight through, with a simple running link lead to a basic rig, be it on mono or whatever. This is the thread where I queried the use and article: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=38886&highlight=advanced+carp+fishing As for the curved section, when I have to resort to using "The short rig" (as Frank Warwick christened it I think), I still use 15lb clear Amnesia for the hooklink, a loop knot to the swivel and it will curve nicely; A) by the natural curve from coming off the spool, and B) by body heat and being rubbed over my thumb. A fish is likely to approach the hookbait from an above angle, so the hooklink is not visible anyway. I can also use that short rig on my preferred running lead set-up, and do so with no problems on harder lakebeds; although the reason for using a helicopter set-up is usually because of one of 2 reasons: a) silty lakebed where I feel the lead will sink in and may pull the hooklink down into it below feeding level b) I am aiming for maximum distance casting, where I need the lead to pull the rig along in flight tangle free.

The one thing I will say, and sorry Emmcee, personal experience has taught me NEVER to use Leadcore again. Andy, there are plenty of leadcore threads round at the moment, with other links available that I recommend you look at. The general advice is to avoid leadcore, and more and more anglers are hopefully getting the message that it is risky stuff and should not be used in fishing.