salokcinnodrog

Handy to bring up an old thread I use the boilie stops that come on the "length". Fire extinguisher tags, clothes label tags that you cut the boilie stop off each time. I push the forward pointed (ish) end into the bottom boilie, and then cut it off close to the boilie. It stops the boilie sliding up and down the hair

A leader knot on this thread: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=37444&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=25 Or this may be handy: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?p=449670#449670 The mono leader I put an overhand knot but don't pull it tight. Thread the thinner mono or braid through that loop in line, then up the leader I tie a Uni knot. Now pull the overhand loop tight, and gradually tighten down the Uni knot. I blob the tag ends with a lighter, just makes for a nicer tidier finish, and prevents the blobs pulling through.

Why add extra bits and pieces to make life more difficult than you need to? A simple pop-up rig is exactly the same rig as a bottom bait rig, but with a pop-up attached to the hook and a counterweight on or below the hook/hair to set your distance. Many of my pop-up rigs are simply a Uni-knot loop at the end of the hair, (with bait in loop when tying hooklink), and a knotless knot with the bait tight to the shank. The counterbalance is then just below the hook the distance you want it popped up. I must confess though, make sure you use VERY buoyant pop-ups, and overbalance them rather than critically getting as close to neutral as you possibly can. I want the hook to be proud of the lakebed, sitting shank straight up, and point pointing straight down. Other than that I find a D-rig is usually the best presentation I can use for pop-ups. Is this any use? http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=22185

How simple would you like it? Simple hooklink material, same as the line that is on your reels, monofilament Fairly tangle free, although I will say that it doesn't necessarily take a knotless knot very well, especially with certain hook patterns where the line rubs over the eye, so in most cases I would recommend using a "proper" knot, and tying on a hair, which is easy enough as well. A thin length of mono tied to the eye of the hook and then line aligner down the hookshank to "exit" point protects the lot. When it comes to other hooklink materials, braids, coated and uncoated, I stick with what I know works, and for me, better than all the rest, is Kryston. I use Mantis, Mantis Gold, SuperSilk, SuperNova and Merlin. I use what I know works, and sorry to all of the other brands, I have never had Kryston hooklink materials give way, never a problem, so I see no need to try anything else and simply can't be bothered with any other make. Is this any use? http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=22185

Coated braid being stiffer than uncoated means you can reduce tangles as one reason, but by choosing where you "break" the coating you can create hinges, or have stripped sections at either end of the hooklink.

This one Jez?

Is this any use? http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=42729

Any use? http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=26640 http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=27479&highlight=running+leads

The past couple of years I have really been complicating the issue for myself, but bear in mind that I'm not fishing a standard water, but more now a heavily fished pit which is home to a number of very good anglers, and some big fish. I've been down the Combi-rig route with the same sort of ending (in fact it did produce my previous PB from the same lake, along with numbers of other fish), and at times I do still think that it is a very useful rig set-up. It is pictured with details of tyin on the " How to Tie the Knotless Knot" thred Jemsue also asked why in many cases we overcomplicate things, (http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=47507&highlight=complicated) but I STILL think that in most cases, there is no need to confuse yourself and the fish by anything other than a plain basic line aligner and hair rig.

DON'T Ever have a swivel attaching the leadcore to the mainline, and really best NOT to use leadcore. Have a read: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=22185 http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=36456 http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=51296 If you don't need to complicate things with a Combi-rig, then don't bother, a standard straight hooklink will catch plenty.

Line through a Tail Rubber, and with the plastic peg going through the inside of an inline lead push the tail rubber over the top of the plastic peg (if worried about line damage a piece of shrink tubing shrunk over the peg will provide protection), and tie the mainline to your hooklink swivel. Then push a rubber tulip bead over the swivel knot and inside the base of the inline lead. The line goes outside the lead, which will pop off if snagged. Far safer than ever using leadcore on an inline set-up, which because it will always trail behind the rig in the event of a snap-off is NOT safe!

Definitely NOT the Korda ones! In my humble view they are probably the worst lead clips on the market, and I don't like lead clips at all unless I positively have to use them. You should have: mainline to swivel with free running run ring or (fixed in terms of so the lead can come off) lead clip, swivel knotted to hooklink or attached to quick link, quick link to hooklink.

Thread moved to correct section. Is this any use? http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=33587 http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=22185

An old thread back up to the top How much do magazines and the fashion rigs actually work in our fishing.? Does using a KD rig really make that much difference over our standard knotless knotted? Come to that, could a line aligner actually work when we may be losing or not even hooking fish on a knotless knotted rig? Is switching to a KD rig the natural answer to that knotless knotted rig "failing"? How many people do think about changing the hair length, the rig length, or even how we feed the swim? Those things may totally change the effectiveness of a rig for the better (or worse). The "standard" hair rig was adapted by Rod Hutchinson and Roger Smith; Hutchys Sliding or Extending hair and Roger Smiths D-rig, both progressions from their fishing at the time. Strange we still use the D-rig (always capitalised due to the "shape" of the hair attachment), yet the sliding hair is almost forgotten in the annals of history. Often we change rigs for the sake of change, or fashion, we don't necessarily take the next progression of adaptation from what we already have. Its all well and good asking what rig to use, on a forum, or reading the answers in a magazine, but they don't give or cover OUR circumstances, we need to experiment ourselves. As anglers fishing we need to have an understanding or natural ability to play with mechanics, as simple as using a line aligner over a knotless knot, and as easy as changing the hair length

DON'T shout And secondly, LOOK: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=41949

As a man that has overcast in to many a snag, the best thing I can recommend to do is to point the rod directly towards the snag, tighten up the clutch and walk backwards keeping the rod in line until the hooklink or line breaks (or you pull in the tree your attached to). It should go at one of the knots, worse case at the reel, but your rod should stay in one piece. Be careful of flying leads/feeders heading back your way though! Wrap a towel or rag around your wrist and grab the line just beyond the rod tip, that way you avoid breaking off at the reel, the worst place it can go. When you do it this way you tend to break the mainline at the hooklink/mainline join

Read it carefully, and so as to make my point clear, I have boldened my reason for using it: No leadcore is safe, especially when you fish it with inline or pendant set-ups. The leadcore in those type of set-ups will ALWAYS trail behind the hooklink, there is NO WAY that the leadcore can be ejected. It is enough weight to hold a hook in and it only takes as little as 15cms, or 6inches, to be able to snag up on a branch, twig or weedbed.

Nick, I value your help and advice on here above many others, as from reading through many of your posts you always have valid points to your discussions as well as doing plenty of research and tests to find facts to back them up... recently I have been drawn towards the leadcore leader for its pinning properties,. however for many reasons I'd prefer to keep away from it, one being that I like my hooklink to be the weaker link than the mainline so if in the event of a lost fish, it'll only be trailing maximum of 18" of line and no lead (all though I do use running rigs mostly and semi fixed rigs using tulip beads when method feeding etc so they're safe regardless of where the line breaks.) I would like my hooklink, line and rig to be as inconspicuous as possible and yet pinned to the bottom as well as possible to stop spooking fish, so I'm guessing that a flurocarbon hooklink would be best? would I benefit from using a flurocarbon leader for the duration my line would trail through the baited area to help keep it as hidden as possible, or benifit more from having a flourocarbon mainline all the way through to reduce the number of knots in my line? how would be best to pin this to the bottom whilst remaining safe? as bits of putty up the line at intervals would prevent the lead coming free wouldn't it? the world of leaders is new to me as I tend to fish nylon mainline through to a nylon hook link, and all though I have had results on this, I'm hoping to target bigger fish through the winter and into next spring and want to do everything I can to aid in hooking the more cautious lumps. so my question to someone who is of far greater experience than myself is, do you have any advice on how I can create an inconspicuous, strong rig that will pin nicely to the bottom yet remain safe? are there any mainline and/or hooklink materials you have found better than most for this you could advise me on? I am asking because I have recently been fishing with whatever I've had knocking around in my dads old tackle box, but I am hoping to join a syndicate next season, and will be getting a new tacklebox and filling it all with new tackle, and as I've been out of the loop so to speak for a fair while what is on the market now is quite daunting and confusing and the mags don't really portray anything safe, and are mainly one large, continuous advert!! I'm asking you because I know you value fish safety above all else and have tried and tested many items out there, and the main reason is you are unbiased! Sorry if this is a long post I'm just a bit lost with it all and thought you the best person I know of to ask No Problem. A few of my tied rigs are in this thread and are basically the white background pictures http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=22185 All of the rigs I have tied in this thread have actually been used for fishing, and all have caught. When it comes to mainline, I use Daiwa Sensor Mono or P-Line Floroclear when I can get hold of it (available in USA and I have had to import it), and fish straight through. I have been using Anti-Tangle tubing over the last 30-45cms of mainline to prevent tangles and provide a bit of protection from snags and gravel, accepting that I will lose a bit of sensitivity with running leads and slack lines. Since I'm not 100% sure on whether the tubing is visible or not, looped or coiled up or not I have been adding a bit of weight to it. (My views on that have changed over time) To keep it down I use a small mouse dropping piece of putty, and shape it so that the putty allows the run ring to slide over it easily. This Running set up is pictured straight on my rods as I was retying rigs after replacing the Mainline. Running Rig with tubing

Paul, Is this any use? http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=32598 I don't want to really get into the whole debate again as I have posted so much about it in the past, but any thread that makes anglers consider what they are doing and fish welfare is always a worthwhile thread. My thoughts are that in most cases there is absolutely no need for a leader unless you are using it for absolute distance casting, and if there are any weed or snags, then bin it, use a safe mainline straight through, and accept that you can't fish as far out. I did start a thread last week about line visibility, so I have a funny feeling that much of what is purported to be true in reducing the visibility of end tackle may actually be a bit of a myth (http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=51785

The line aligner has been covered again in one of the monthlies, Septembers Carpology, and according to palm tests, (which I don't necessarily think are always effective), was the best at grabbing hold and turning in to create good hook pr icking.

Don't know if it is any use to you, but I prefer the knot from the Kryston packing/leaflet. Put the swivel or create the loop and then make an overhand knot (but don't pull tight), take the tag end back through the overhand knot, and wrap around 4 times, then back up through the overhand loop. Now wet the knot and then gradually pull tight. With this knot I find it is soft enough with Kryston coated braids for them to still have some movement without breaking the coating. I also use it for stiff rigs to swivel, where my boom section is Amnesia

Definitely the best. Stood the test of time, so I see no reason to change. I have never had a Kryston braid or coated braid give way on me, and their putty is also the best www.kryston.com

Is this any use? http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=48557 Not the "I don't use Bait floss" bit, but about the knot I use to tie baits on

Try this: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=41949 I refuse to use Glue on any knot I tie, instead relying on tying a good knot. If you consider that Superglue or rig glue are both cyanoacrylates, so essentially the same product. That glue may well strengthen a knot in the immediate short term, but water weakens superglue, in fact one of the reasons that superglue or a medical equivalent is used to replace stitches, so the wound can be glued, and then the glue will weaken and break off as the moisture gets into it. Also that glue will also stop lateral movement on a material. As you play a fish the knot is moving around at the top of the hook eye, swivel or splice. That movement may not appear to be much but if the knot is glued, the knot and line can't move, it may break instead.

Hence my choice for a clear submerged float The bait is well above the float even with only 30cms. I use that short a length so that I can eradicate tangles, any longer and really whacking it out any distance and a longer hooklink can be a right pain to cast. The other thing is that for hooklinks I often use a fluorocarbon hooklink, which sinks, so too long a hooklink may actually drag the hook and bait down. On the occasions I decide to go any longer I've found I need to be casting the hooklink out of a bucket or off the ground or unhooking mat, just don't let the hook snag up when you cast I've done a copy and pste onto the linked thread ealier in the topic