salokcinnodrog

In most cases about the only thing you need as a rig, is a basic knotless knotted or line aligned hook and hair, (some hook patterns DO NOT flip in with a knotless knot) rig that you can tie. Then if you have problems with hooking, or not or hookpulls you can change and adapt by playing with the hair or rig length. Also don't forget that how you feed or bait up and put in free offerings may have some effect on a rig behaviour. That is down to YOU to develop your own style. Find a suitable hooklink material for you and the lakebed (!), but remember that you will have to possibily change this hooklink material depending on what you fish over as the various areas or lake you fish changes. Those links above should help you immensely, but remember, MOST rigs are only confusing, because WE make them so. We fish the same every time, bait up same, cast the same, to the same features. When the fish get wary of that feeding situation, that area, that same lead set-up, then we change the rig, its the rig fault, not our own. I've used this rig pretty much from 1994 to now, although I've used a fresh hook a few times and a fresh piece of braid a couple more, its the same rig Why change what works? I'm comfortable with it, as are the fish in MOST waters Rigs are only as confusing as you allow them to be.

You mean this one ? I quite liked the look of it. just a 360 isn't it ? good rig but again in the right situation have fun and keep up the tying, it's good to experiment now and then and the above rig really isn't that tricky to tie like them all a couple of goes and you soon will pick it up. Ye thats the one lol whats the point tho i mean how will this catch me a carp more than say a normal knotless knot rig set up? ppl say its for the right situation but they dont say what these situations are. Can u help? Look at your fishing, FORGET the rigs published in many of the magazines, and consider are you catching? where are you hooking the fish? are you getting hookpulls? and how does the hooklink behave in the water or on the lakebed? How are the fish feeding? Have a read of these: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=9536 http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=37416 http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=41886

http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=41751&highlight=tubing

What exactly do you want I'm sorry to sound offish but I just don't get it, sorry. What has your age got to do with it? 16 is old enough to join Paxmans or CAPS. You actually want to pay £15 a night for some dirty rubbish ridden lake where the fish are all in bad condition rather than join a club... To fish 365 days will cost you £5475 on day ticket or £45 for Paxmans.... now let me think which I'd prefer...... Ok, next suggestion, try the little pond behind Weeley caravan site, they were brought up on chips & left overs from the cafe for years so please don't ask me about bait Or fish Holland Brook for free And you ask about Ardleigh Reservoir ( http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=41888 ), which although they do Day Tickets, for serious Carp Fishing you will likely need to do nights, and the cost of a season ticket is close on £200 for a year. CAPS or Paxmans is a lot better than a water that has limited stocks in a Hellhole, which a number of the Day tickets waters are in that area. 30 minutes from Manningtree, hmmm! look up Suffolk Waters. I know for a fact that if you are so insistent on Day Tickets then a number near to Ipswich are in that time limit. If not then I'll give you the fun of Essex Waters: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=38888&highlight=essex http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=24979&highlight=essex

You don't need to waste money on anti tangle booms A piece of silicon tube, or even a Tail Rubber slid over the hooklink swivel will do the same job , although Solar do (sorry, can't bring myself to recommend ESP gear now, not since they are making ready tied Death Rigs )

That will usually be the hooklink falling around the lead as it drops through the water then As mentioned use dissolving foam, PVA bags or mesh, or stringers, or go to kryston superstiff, or feather the cast. All of those methods reduce or prevent tangles

Probably a couple of ways http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=22185 http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=37416 From the bottom link I remember Andy Little explaining that he found it easier to make a continuation from the hook knot and down the shank, (can be done with the knotless knot or any knot to include a hair material inside the knot barrel) held in place with a couple of pieces of silicone, but you know about that one, cos I remember your Silicon splitting Try getting a length of mono/or hair material, roughly double the length you want as a hair. Double Overhand knot the 2 ends together, you then have a loop at the other end. Put loop alongside hook bend, then the knotted piece put over hook bend and down through the loop. Put bait in loop and then put stop in. (Does that make sense?). It is a double thickness hair, but the tight loop doesn't slip far Or get your hair material, tie loop in end for bait stop, then attach to hook with a grinner or blood knot on the bend.

You could have pointed out the typo though

Just about a perfect explanation I'm not totally sure about 1.5 times as long as the hooklink, I usually just use a couple of centimetres longer than the rig. In most cases you don't need tubing at all. By the use of feathering the cast, using a Mono or Fluorocarbon hooklink, PVA bags/mesh/or stringers tangles can be pretty much eliminated, even with braided hooklinks (probably why tubing has been advocated to reduce tangles as braid is very supple). I know these are mentioned on other threads, so having a play with the search may be useful . Tubing in most cases is like putting a stick right across your dinner plate. Put you right off your meal A standard mainline is extremely unlikely to cut a fish, although a braid mainline is different. You don't fish tubing on a Surface fishing set-up, so why the need on a bottom bait.? The most camouflaged tubing is more obvious than an extremely fine (in relation) line. Consider your mainline is (approx) 0.35-0.40mm, and the finest tubing is 0.75mm. Which is going to be easiest to see? Add a tight line into that (with or without tubing) and it is going to be more obvious for the Carp to see. Fish a tight line at short range (under say 40metres) with tubing and you are likely to be holding it up off the bottom of the lake. The line running "straight" from rod tip to end tackle. In nature very few items are "tight" or straight. The best way to camouflage a line (in my view) is to fish it as slack as possible with a Running Lead, the line running along the lake bed, drooping straight down from the rod tip. Despite what many think, the indication is more instant than with a tight line and Semi-Fixed Lead, the lead does not need to be moved to get an indication at the rod (It does with a Semi-fixed set-up, and that includes Silt/Helicopter rigs). Also have a search for Running vs Semi-Fixed Leads, and Slack lines vs Tight lines There is a time when I worry about using tubing and it being longer than a couple of centimetres more than the rig; that is when I'm using tubing as a "abrasion resistor" and using it to protect the line from snags etc which may cut through uncovered mainline. Simplest set-up is probably knotless knotted hook to hooklink with a swivel joining to mainline. On the mainline coming back from the swivel a rubber bead or 2 to protect the knot and stop run ring sliding down hooklink, a Run Ring with a lead attached. Sorry if that is long winded, but I've tried to be as comprehensive as possible, to be understood

Try these: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=22185 http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=37603 While I know that Spudder has recommended the Korda Running set-up, there are other manufacturers (and some are definitely better!) Solar, Fox, ESP etc. Go through, choose the one that suits YOU, not which is advertised or plugged, as the truth is out there and it is not always in the magazines

From last week: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=34583

Whatever you think is best relative to the size of the fish Have a read with this maybe give some additional ideas http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=34583

Just about a perfect precis of the place (although there are a couple of shallower features in a couple of the low number pegs 1-6 if you know them ) As for £50 a night? Flipping heck!

I've removed a couple of slightly argumentative posts. I know Catch22 as a venue although I've never fished it as Catch 22 (although did as Lyng Easthaugh). The lake was drained in the 1990's and the majority of the carp that were in there were removed. It was then refilled and re-stocked with legitimate carp (nearly all commons) from Belgium/Netherlands. There are a few lakes in the Wensum valley that do hold catfish. Some were "shifted" from Taverham as the anglers who caught them did not agree with killing fish (or contacting the EA and the EA killing them) and that IS the rule on Taverham Mills. Catch22 is very heavily fished and has been since it re-opened. As far as I knew the best pegs were the 2 opposite the island, Peg 1 and the other in the 30's, and the island swim itself if you book it specially. It also used to fish well with plenty of pellet, pellet groundbait (and the Method), and boilies made from ground pellets.

I know near Romford you have Dagenham Chase, Fairlop Water at Ilford/Fairlop. I believe that there was or is a syndicate on the Chase. I have tried to contact Fairlop in the past via their website and had no reply from them, so you may actually have to go in there to find out. I think it is on a sailing club and a golf club from memory. 2 lakes, one large lake and one a lot smaller There was also a water mentioned in Hornchurch on the forum, but no-one had much detail on it, but I believe it did Google. I don't know if this is any use: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=27977 http://www.fishsoutheast.co.uk/clubsessex.htm

Nice memory Tackle and Equipment Stickies, "What Mainline?," or something like that (Even I can't remember the exact title , but it is near the top of the section). If you go into Rig Tying Stickies section there are some pics of a number of rigs containing braids. Braid hooklinks offer some advantages, and some disadvantages. They are very supple for their breaking strain, I can't say diameter as even the thickness of braids varies across the board There is a difference between hooklink braids and mainline braids. DO NOT use a mainline braid for a hooklink, many are Kevlar impregnated (certain fibres), which is very good at cutting. In actual fact many Special Forces troops are given a length of Kevlar braid, that can be used as an Emergency Saw. Hooklink braids are mostly softer, although there are a couple on the market that are very thin diameter and are capable of cutting (Drennan Specialist braid is one of them) The main disadvantage is that they have limited or no stretch, although that is normally not a problem as the mainline acts as a shock absorber with its stretch. Knots should be perfect, most braids don't take kindly to blood knots. They are also very easy to tangle, and any knot is almost impossible to undo, so a tangled rig needs to be changed every time. A mono or fluoro is less likely to tangle Some braids float, and others sink in normal use, although the arcing or looping off the bottom is actually common to nearly all hooklinks , even worse with shorter hooklinks. Reasons for using braid, it sits nicely on weed, and is sometimes or even more often camouflaged or not as obvious as mono. The suppleness, may offer extra pick-ups, or non ejection as opposed to the stiffness of mono or fluorocarbon hooklinks. Choice is down to you

I shall not put down the wicked thoughts I have about the brand then

Why not use enough Shrink tubing to go down the shank to hold the hair in place. Perfect when you have the hair coming off opposite the point. As for using Silicon tube, different silicon, different behaviour. If the stuff you gets splits, then use one that doesn't And why does it entail tying a new rig if it does split? Thread the tiny piece of tubing onto baiting needle, pull hair through tubing, and then thread over point being careful NOT to catch fibres if you use a braid hair. Simples!

How did the bait come back? Crushed, whole or even none at all? Then think about the length of the pharyngeal teeth from the lips to the back of the mouth. It could be that the bait went all the way back, but the hook didn't go into the lips. Bait was then crushed (and maybe removed), and the Hook just fell down as the hair was too long. Or it may be the opposite that the hair was too short and the fish were ejecting before the hook took hold. In that case go play around with an extending hair cos a long hair of much above 4or5cms is a pain to cast without tangling. As Wilfster has said Line Trailers could be a possibility as well. Don't automatically assume the latest heavily publicised KD rig is the answer to everything. It may be a case of go back to basics. The KD rig because of how the hair leaves the hook could be the problem. In the link above there is a lovely pic of hair attachments to the hook Compare that to how the hair leaves the hook with a KD rig, and then consider that the hook may actually end up turning totally the wrong way they were coming back whole. i have been thinking of tying the hair to the hook as i doubt hardly anyone does that anymore. Problem is often too much importance is placed on rigs instead of the whole package. A rig can be made more effective by understanding feeding. A very effective rig can be made useless by not having the right feeding situation. Rigs are not the "be all and end all", nor is bait, but the feeding situation and rig need to be taken in context together and understood for both to be at their most effective.

How did the bait come back? Crushed, whole or even none at all? Then think about the length of the pharyngeal teeth from the lips to the back of the mouth. It could be that the bait went all the way back, but the hook didn't go into the lips. Bait was then crushed (and maybe removed), and the Hook just fell down as the hair was too long. Or it may be the opposite that the hair was too short and the fish were ejecting before the hook took hold. In that case go play around with an extending hair cos a long hair of much above 4or5cms is a pain to cast without tangling. As Wilfster has said Line Trailers could be a possibility as well. Don't automatically assume the latest heavily publicised KD rig is the answer to everything. It may be a case of go back to basics. The KD rig because of how the hair leaves the hook could be the problem. In the link above there is a lovely pic of hair attachments to the hook Compare that to how the hair leaves the hook with a KD rig, and then consider that the hook may actually end up turning totally the wrong way

There is another thread about Merrington as well covering the booking of the social: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=31197, and somewhere on there is a link to their website. The website contains the prices and full location. I also know that there are a couple more threads on here about it as well

Try this: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=37416 May keep you going for a little while. But typing in Hair length into the search facility will almost definitely bring up more.

Was it Richworth and Anchor who made the Leads with the attached Attractor capsules? I believe one of them also made a fizzing tablet

Sorry if that sounds a bit strong above, just trying to make the point clear, but you know how outspoken I am

NO! You are reading but not understanding. If anything that was curved or with inturned eye, then every rig would be a Bent Hook rig. The Bent Hook rig had an angle put in, BENT, approximately halfway along the shank to create an angle, or the hook was BENT, so that the (Inturned by coincidence) eye was opposite the point of the hook. Which is basically what we are now trying to achieve by using a Line Aligner or Angled (BENT) piece of Tubing. Because it is tubing, under pressure it straightens out, so other than the hookmark it causes a lot less damage other than a hookmark.