salokcinnodrog

As Daleg has said, a Silt feeder may need a totally different presentation to a gravel or hard bottom feeder. The curtain at the top of the mouth, the majority of carp I have caught have still had this intact, some weird places to be hooking if it has been damaged or ruined, although surface feeders and hooking in the top may be a cause Thats why I say I don't think about Rig Mechanics, although I understand about lengthening the shank with tubing, and a line aligner is something I'm doing now as a matter of course. Again, you've pointed out that some fish, maybe especially fat, gutty fish may be "vertical feeders". Maybe because although I say I don't think about it, it is possibly part of the understanding of watercraft, which I may do without thinking about, or knowing why I do it. Its the same with when I use Pop-ups exclusively, I prefer an out-turned eye, and the pop-up tight to the hook as I feel that I get better hookholds and hook-ups with that presentation. I do also check how the hook and pop-up sit in the margins of the water. I can't convince myself to have the hook laying on its side and the pop-up above it. That should in theory give me a better chance of a hook-up with a fish that is picking up as opposed to sucking and blowing, so the rig should really be chosen with how a fish feeds in mind.

Not sure how many fish over 20, but I don't think many. There is very little natural food for the fish other than the slugs that they like hoovering up from the overhanging foliage. The best feature that had a lot of bloodworm alongside it is no longer there, the rushes were cut down to create another swim/platform. I honestly don't know how up to date the website is, the best I can suggest is to have a word with the farmer if you can get hold of him, he wasn't about when a mate went down for a look and to find out what was happening, the only thing he could find out is what was on the noticeboard

Its a rectangular shape irrigation pond with a small inlet at the road end and about 3/4 of an acre maximum next to a farm. The lake drops down and has 2 definite shelves as it drops. As far as I'm aware it has gone from Day Ticket to being on the GAPS club book, although I'm not totally sure on that. It did in fact used to be a Stock Pond (and in my view is about all that it is good for ) Bait is easy, sweetcorn, luncheon meat, peperami, or a good boilie, and they love PLENTY of sweetcorn and groundbait. How simple can tying a Knotless knot rig with a hair be? It doesn't matter what swim, although 2 or 3 will be very obvious and most of your casting will along the margins anyway. You could cast from one end to the other!

Thought I'd bring this up again as somebody tried to be a bit smart on another thread Unfortunately I can't quote all 4 posts, and strangely enough I also gained qualifications in Electro-Mechanical and General Mechanical Engineering to C&G level (thats City and Guilds, not Cow and Gate Baby Milk ) I say I don't think about Rig Mechanics consciously, it maybe something unconscious. Although I don't like hookpulls I nearly always analyse them and work out why. I have time on my hands with the fish I target, and can spend plenty of time at the lake(s), so to miss a fish or 2 does not normally worry me unduly. I admit that I have particular favourite brands and types of hook, and very rarely use any others as I'm not a "Fashion Victim", so whatever I tie has to be able to work effectively with what I do. I do test rigs out at times, although the palm and thumb test I think are crude and ineffective. Fish don't feed that way, they can't pull the hooklink away, so I don't think that they give a true representation. I feel that the fish takes in the bait, and the hook follows, then dependant on if taken back or ejected drops into the bottom lip or not. To get the bait taken back comfortably then make sure the feeding situation is right. Don't get me wrong, thats just my way of thinking. When I had a series of hookpulls last year I looked to possible reasons and decided that my all braid rig was getting caught up in weed patches around the clear areas, so without thinking I tied up some Combi links, Amnesia boom to Supersilk bottom, this change immediately resulted in numbers of fish on the bank. I honestly don't know why I did it, but felt that the Stiff section would lie flat on the clear bed, and the braid would be natural in or over the top of the weed The next water I went onto I had a couple of hookpulls on my standard braid rig and line aligned version, so worked out and decided that on this lake the weed and detritus was masking the hookpoint. I had also observed that the fish I was targetting was not going to accept rigs on the standard Silt/chod or a pop-up set-up. A change to lift the hookpoint with my version of the 1up 1down (Mushroom) rig immediately all fish were hooked dead centre of the bottom lip. When I started fishing a totally different water this year in terms of pressure and Big Fish I changed away from my basics to a sliding/revolving rig for a couple of reasons; The fish were more pressured than most of the fish around my local waters, and I wanted a rig that would behave pretty much the same on the clay or gravel lakebed that is in the swim I have fished so far. I've not done too bad banking a few when I went onto it. Again the fish have been hooked nicely bottom lip and in a couple of occasions had hooked very deeply and were not going to come out in a month of Sundays during the fight. Strangely one of the first fish I hooked was a new 30 for the water and wasn't recognised by any of the other anglers. I can't see this fish getting away with it all the time (it did actually have someones rig in the corner of its lip, which I didn't discover until I went to lift it for photos), but did my rig make a difference? I guess we never know the whole truth as we catch a fish, and we don't really know whether the new rig was the reason for it, or whether it would have come to a standard. As I've said loads of times we really want to keep it as simple as possible, yet some fish just can get away with it plenty of times without us even knowing. Just about every rig gets ejected without us getting a hook-up, so a new development happens or is contrived. How often will the Lead set up make a difference to what we do? Do Rig mechanics make a massive difference or do we forget to consider the other factors, how we feed, where we position our rigs? Or do the whole lot have to be considered in total and in part?

Quite so! Different people prefer different patterns as well, so is this any use? Best Bottom bait hook FLB's are a great 'ook, very strong, you will not snap one of them, and the point is simply awesome. I will say though if you are fishing waters that are silty, and the fish have softer mouthes then they can cut a bit, so be very careful where and when you use them! I always thought it was spelt "Hiya"

Try this, it may help http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=33587

Is this any use? http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=37416

Benji, Thank you. A very serious question with genuine concern I'm going to move this into UK Carp Fishing Stickies, it is a very important useful piece of advice. I'm pretty much with Levi on this, although I nearly always use forceps to grip the hook rather than one of the In-line disgorgers that he refers to. Thats a handy tip about the "smack" tap on the back of the hand. Can now legitimately get smacked wrists Grip the hook as tight as you can with forceps, and gently push out in the opposite direction to how it went in. Very few hooks actually stick, but one or two can be enough to make it a difficult job. If the hook point even comes out another hole from where it went in, I always gently push it out past the barb and snip the hook. The cost of a hook towards damaging a fish, the fish will win every time, I'll snip the hook. Final Point, a quick dose of Klinik, or other Hook treatment will always be a good idea The forceps and wire cutters should always be handy to where you unhook the fish, as close to your unhooking mat. I have my unhooking mat pegged next to the back of my bivvy, and attached to one of the guy tethers are my forceps and wire cutters.

By posting on a thread you bring it back to the top of the section, where it can be updated with new posts

No, you can leave it on, it does knot tidily must admit never stripped of at the swivel end It depends on what you want to achieve with the hooklink. On the one pictured I've only taken a tiny piece off on the hair for a small hinge just under the tubing. Also think I was using it in a fairly snaggy water as well . Looks like one of my basic Thwaite rigs If you strip a length of at the hook end then you'll have a supple piece near the hook, or you can "break" it to create a hinge halfway down, or if you want movement near the swivel it can be removed. That's useful in allowing a little extra movement.

No, you can leave it on, it does knot tidily

It depends on what make Coated Braid it is as different manufacturers recommend different knots. One thing I will say is that a Blood knot in most cases is an absolute NO NO. For the Kryston Coated braids I use a Uni or Clinch knot. Go through the swivel loop twice with the braid, make yourself a loop with the tag end, and then go round the braid 5 times down towards the swivel with that tag, then back up through the loop. Lubricate and pull tight. For tidiness I lighter blob the loose tag This might also help: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=41949

You have absolutely loads of choices, and many of them already mentioned on the forum. Just on the Day Ticket or Holiday Style venue, Linear, Taverham, Waveney Valley/Yew Tree/Marsh Farm, Anglers Paradise, Suffolk Water Park. Don't get into the mindset of everything being instant , with your location I can pretty much guarantee that you have fisheries in the area that will produce those fish and bigger IF you make the effort! So to the above list you can add a number of Club Waters in Essex, CAPS, KDAA, and a number of others between Suffolk and the edge of London, again, a search for Essex Waters will give you an extensive list to go for, add into that Hertfordshire and you WILL be sorted. Just depends on whether you are treating it as a holiday session or is your long term local target

Your rigs working for you, and dependant on where you are hooking the fish then the gap/hair length is right. If you need to play around with the hair length, there is a thread in Carp Fishing or Rig Tying Stickies about the actual length of the hair and how it may need changing. I wonder about Blowback rigs though, differentiating between those that use a piece of tubing on the shank compared to those with a ring. A Blowback rig with a piece of tubing will give you indication if you have been done (in theory), the tubing and hair will be blown back up the hookshank showing you've been sussed (the theory according to Kevin Nash), yet won't reset itself as the rigs with a ring can do. I think though, that there are a number of variations of rigs that can be termed "Blowback" rigs; any rig with a sliding ring, either fixed to the hair and knotless knot, or free sliding. Even a D-rig could be classed as a Blowback rig, as can the Sliding or Revolving rigs that I've been playing with.

From years ago when I fished Days Lake (which at the time was the only one on the complex with definite carp in, and only about 10 carp at the time as well, (1994/5)), if there were any more than 3 anglers on there it switched off. The new stocking may make it a better venue, as to how it fishes and whether there are any other variations of tickets from Cemex, I would recommend contacting them

From Cemex Friday night the 31st July 2009: http://www.cemexangling.co.uk/new_site/venueinfo.php?function=viewvenue&venueid=213 I'm pretty positive I've posted about Ringland before, if I have just by posting on an existing thread would bring it back to the top

A number of lakes, with limited membership on each, very difficult to get into, or find info on. You get onto lake1 (eventually, if you are lucky, have just won the lottery and a bird has pooed on your shoulder ), then as the existing members see your ability then you get your membership upgraded the next year with the increase in cost onto the next lake etc. As for getting Contact Details, very difficult, pretty much the same people/person as the West Stow syndicate, which has the same sort of restrictions I think. The only difference is you can actually walk around The Stow as it is in the middle of the Country Park From Thetford, you may well be better off heading towards Cambridge for waters

Sensible idea, and I do the same, however as I use Combi rigs with a loop I still want the Amnesia Boom straight and loop perfectly formed when fishing, I do make sure I can straighten them on the bank. I rub some heat into the Amnesia, either through my fingers or up and down the trouser legs, then get a Solar Bead thing, (that you use to put the beads on tubing), and push that through the loop, get forceps or grips on the hook and then straighten the hooklink with gradual increase of tension, NO jerky movements. It also means that I'm additional testing my knots as well

Now you're asking something, its such a long time since I fished it that I can't really remember the make up of the bottom , although I seem to remember it was fairly hard bottomed, a few silt patches. It seemed to have a bit of a tinge, not majorly coloured, you could make out the fish about 30cms under the surface at 30metres range, but not the exact size or enough to identify them.

Go to Search facility, type in "Suffolk waters", specify UK Where to fish section of the forum, then click search all terms. You will find a MASSIVE list of Suffolk waters come up Lets just say what I know about Creeting is not that good. Probably your best bet is to get into a good club, and accept that you will have to wait for a fish as what is available in Suffolk is very limited.

Welcome to the Forum. 6,7,8, sounds like the "Wooded" bank from memory, but I'm not totally sure, its a long time since I've been there. You get booked into your pegs and can't move on Yew Tree, unless a swim is free, which really puts Stalking them down. The Carp do move about the Lake, as do the Catfish, but the Carp can be seen as they move. You will pretty much know if you are in the right area as they do show up in the water and give themselves away. Cats can and will take Fish based baits, and scrap like heck, even the smaller ones, although the carp will take the same baits , and I know that Trigga did work on there. The majority of anglers fish TIGHT to the emergent features, which are pretty obvious, islands etc. When you cast if you are on the pylon bank, be very careful with your casting, as the pylons do eat up tackle, as do the trees on the islands. Check the Current Rules very carefully as the Bailiffs can be very strict

Mate, As I say the best PVA going I regularly order from his shop (even if I do take the E-bay link I've saved in favourites ). Whenever I buy anything I forward a copy of the PayPal receipt and just check and confirm the delivery. I even get an e-mail confirmation (often personalised rather than the "mass produced" sale) back as well. Always spot on, arrives when he says.

Thats the joys of carp fishing mate!!! Put it this way, I've hardly used Fluorocarbon or Mono as a hooklink except for Surface fishing (yes Fluoro with Vaseline on it for Surface, minus the last bit near the hook), sticking to Braid (Combi links or straight) and Coated Braid for years. I manage to catch a few fish. It may be a case of picking a braid that matches the Lakebed as much as possible, or it could be the suppleness creates confusion, whatever, to me Braid works and I do a lot better because I have confidence in it than when I use Mono or Flurocarbon I think that Fluorcarbon also has slightly less stretch than Mono. Mono is between 18-25% I think, compared to the 15% (ish) of Fluoro

Not forgetting that with Mo's Co (in my view the BEST PVA supplies), if you spend over £10 (before carriage) you get a free goody from him. I've always received a small packet of Long Distance Lick and Stick Bags. These are perfect for up to 4x 18mm Boilies or a small amount of crumb. Tucker, You say about Oil based ingredients slowing down the dissolve time of PVA, even dropping the Bags in High Oil pellets can slow the dissolve time down to the eventuality of not dissolving at all

Blast from the past, and I know that it has been mentioned on the forum before I'm going to have to point you in the direction of the Search facility as I can't paste in the link. Go to Search, click "search all terms", specify The UK where to fish section of the forum, and then click search. You will have about 10 threads come up. Information is sparse, and I don't know current rules or stocks; It is a long long time since I fished it. Just watch out for the Crays