Jump to content

salokcinnodrog

Super Moderator
  • Posts

    4,019
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    300

Everything posted by salokcinnodrog

  1. I borrowed this quote (its only part of a reply) from the Different Strains thread, and its a subject that I've been thinking about as well. There are definitely different ways of feeding from different Carp, it has come up in the past in this thread as well. Some fish will suck and blow to eat their food, and others will scoop and pick up their food in the lips. Is this sucking and blowing fish going to get caught on the same rig as a fish which mouthes the bait? How do you make a rig that will catch the both types of feeding. Shorter rigs will catch fish that are over beds of bait, but will this same short rig catch fish feeding on this bait that are sucking the baits in? It can't be going in far enough. Is this the reason for hookpulls on some fish? Or is the short rig being taken in by fish that are picking the bait up and the lead is pulling the hook down to pr1ck the fish too early? On a longer rig with a good length hair ( both longer than usual) do both types of fish get caught? The water I have had a problem with hookholds I was playing this week, and had takes on 2 different rigs, one again, slightly more Complicated than standard. The rig that produced 3 fish was a Basic Knotless Knotted SuperNova Hooklink to ESP hook of about 20cm long. From the end of the bait I had about 10mm clearance to the shank. The other rod had on a Coated Braid Snowman presentation on a Sliding ring on the shank of the hook, the ring only able to slide to the top of the shank as there was a small Fox rubber stop. I had no clearance from the bait to the ring, the hookbait was tight, no additional hair showing through the bait. On both rigs the carp were hooked fairly and squarely and I had no problems with either. Have I gone too Complicated to start with? Dave had a Carp on a basic Amnesia Hooklink with a mono hair. Personnely I think the carp eating your bait has much more say so on whether or not you hook it. I think rigs only make a slight difference in comparrison. That may be true, but there may come a point on "Pressured" waters where you may need to go more advanced. I know I keep going on about you can change the hooklink length, and the hair length, but there may be a point where you could need to do something different. I have had to play around with rigs on this Fishery that I started fishing last year. Its not always to confuse the Carp either, it could be to avoid the weed or bottom make-up.
  2. I borrowed this quote (its only part of a reply) from the Different Strains thread, and its a subject that I've been thinking about as well. There are definitely different ways of feeding from different Carp, it has come up in the past in this thread as well. Some fish will suck and blow to eat their food, and others will scoop and pick up their food in the lips. Is this sucking and blowing fish going to get caught on the same rig as a fish which mouthes the bait? How do you make a rig that will catch the both types of feeding. Shorter rigs will catch fish that are over beds of bait, but will this same short rig catch fish feeding on this bait that are sucking the baits in? It can't be going in far enough. Is this the reason for hookpulls on some fish? Or is the short rig being taken in by fish that are picking the bait up and the lead is pulling the hook down to pr1ck the fish too early? On a longer rig with a good length hair ( both longer than usual) do both types of fish get caught? The water I have had a problem with hookholds I was playing this week, and had takes on 2 different rigs, one again, slightly more Complicated than standard. The rig that produced 3 fish was a Basic Knotless Knotted SuperNova Hooklink to ESP hook of about 20cm long. From the end of the bait I had about 10mm clearance to the shank. The other rod had on a Coated Braid Snowman presentation on a Sliding ring on the shank of the hook, the ring only able to slide to the top of the shank as there was a small Fox rubber stop. I had no clearance from the bait to the ring, the hookbait was tight, no additional hair showing through the bait. On both rigs the carp were hooked fairly and squarely and I had no problems with either. Have I gone too Complicated to start with? Dave had a Carp on a basic Amnesia Hooklink with a mono hair.
  3. Calm down! I highlighted the fact so that you and others don't turn it into a Death Rig. Preventing the beads from sliding would/could create that possibility. I questioned the need for a Silt set-up, nothing you have said above gives me the idea that its still 100% required. The Silt set-up, bomb on the end of the line was designed for where the hooklinkwas required to be held above the Silt, where the Lead, and some of the Line would be dragged into the silty bottom. From your post it seems that with an inch of leaf mould and weed a basic Pop-up on a pendant set-up would be all that is required. Indeed I also said it could or may improve your bite indication. Also have read your next post and quoted it, those "amazingly talented anglers", Would that be from magazines? Sorry, In which case take it with a pinch of salt. The Helicopter/Silt rig variations are not the be all and end all of fishing. Again Helicopter and Silt set-ups are the Current FASHION. In many cases anglers jump to them because they can't be bothered to think about other Safer and in many cases better options. A Running lead with a Slack line does not need Leadcore, and you can get away with using the Putty or Flying Backlead to pin the Line down.
  4. First question, do you have to use a SILT Rig, (Its proper name)? For weed/silt that thin it may not prove an advantage. It also means that you have to have a Tight Line running through the swim to your end Tackle. Yes the Tubing can slip up the Line at times if the fish goes through a snag and it is forced free. Putty can/may trap the Beads on the line, jamming the beads in place, which may make the rig a Death Rig. Never ever attach a swivel above the tubing for the same reason. The helicopter set-ups also may weaken the line as you are playing the fish at an angle against the line. Another point is that Bomb-on the-end of the line set-ups can give minimal indications. Far better in many cases to use a Standard Pendant (Lead clip/running lead) set-up, and a pop-up rig at the end. Indeed I would avoid totally Bomb on the end of the line set-ups if there are any snags. The Fish can run too far before you get any indication at the rod end. If you look at the Sticky at the top of the section with Rigs, Lead set-ups etc, the Weedy Water Rig and Lead set-up can actually be used in Silty Waters as well.
  5. Walked up to the owner and said, "Excuse me, how much does it cost to fish here and what are the Rules you stipulate? Is there any chance I would be allowed to fish your lakes?"
  6. Fraid not, its my Secret Water about 5miles away from Ipswich 5 miles from ipswich eh! right google earth time Good job I haven't told in which direction , around Ipswich it looks like the Printer has spilled Blue Ink on the Map (Rod Hutchinson)
  7. Fraid not, its my Secret Water about 5miles away from Ipswich
  8. I forgot I had this on the PC, taken early on one of my Unknown water trips. Just loved the Blue sky and the view first thing.
  9. I would not say the BlowBack rigs are simple. The simplest rigs are Knotless Knotted with a Hair. From that you can change most things easily, the hooklink length or the hair length. Then add into that the Mantis, that is not a "basic" braid. It makes Combination rigs easier to tie, so I would not class it as simple.
  10. Tackle Box sell it, think it was one of their specials originally .
  11. Another point that I didn't extend onto is that Carp may take soaked/dipped boilies quite happily, but regular captures on them and they may start to get wary and eventually refuse to take them. A continually overflavoured bait and the Carp may start to not take them
  12. If you are losing leads then the Lead clip is working efficiently. As soon as the Fish is picking up the Rig and swimming off the Lead pulls free of the Clip as the Rubber slides up, which is exactly what they are supposed to do. The Rubber is sliding free and preventing the fish from getting snagged in weed etc. If you are annoyed at losing leads at minimal contact with the Lead clips, then switch to the Carp-R-Us Lead Clips, they have a 3 stage Clip for changes in tension of your choice. MAKE SURE YOU READ THE INSTRUCTIONS WITH THESE FIRST, as they are not a standard Line clip.
  13. Air Drying reduces the Moisture Content in baits. Oils may turn to a sticky snot type thing on the outside of them. When the Bait is rehydrated then the flavour will still be released. Hence why I don't like using Artificial Flavours in Food Source Baits. If you use them as an Individual Attractor bait with no freebies around they may still work. The Carp do not eat the individual hookbait.
  14. Essential Oils can be overloaded. Many are best at extremely low dosages, Leek and Garlic are best at levels as low as 2drops per 250ml Bait Soak. The type of flavours, as pointed out above by Gaz in his point about Natural Flavours are important, but even Citrus Flavours or Fruit flavours on Esters can be overloaded. I have written about the types of flavours in the past. Thats from this thread: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=24365
  15. If you are using Boilie dips then my advice is to fish single hookbaits, with limited or no freebies around it. You are relying on the attraction of the Hookbait to pull the carp to the bait. As for overdosing, even with shop bought dips and glugs, unless you know that they don't contain any ingredients that, in excess, can repel carp then its possible that they can be overdosed. I much prefer Glugs/dips that contain things like Nutramino, Multimino, CSL Liquid, but with no added flavours. It tends to be the flavours that act as a repellant in excess. Who knows what percentage of flavour in a dip is going to make it repellant? Its also far better to get the carp onto a long term food source bait and feed regularly, (even when not fishing), than to fish Attractor baits as in many waters the carp are now getting extremely wary of Hi-Vis and/or overflavoured hookbaits.
  16. Used Weetabix in Boilie Base mixes and Groundbait.
  17. lol, I know about the Search facility being a bit of a Pain at times. Ask for one item and 2564 threads come up and not all of them relevant. It depends on what you want to do with it. Vitalin mixed stiff can be used as a Method Mix if soaked and then Drained off. Or if you want a milky cloud with it then let it take on too much water. When its wet I find it comes out of a spod better. It also mixes with other Groundbaits well. When I do that I tend to put enough Boiling Water to wet it, leave it over night, and then mix dry groundbait or Base Mix into the Vitalin next day.
  18. And I was just about to give you a smart remark as well. The best way I found to prepare Vitalin was to pour boiling Water over it the night before I used it. Just not always possible on the Bank. I used to keep some Vitalin and Particles in the Car when I went for a couple of days. Every time I would go I would pour some Particles straight onto it the Day before I needed it. So if I was fishing for 3 days I would have a Bucket of Vitalin prepared at home with Boiling Water. As soon as I had put that in the Lake I would top the Bucket up with Fresh Vitalin and then pour some of the Particles in on top of it. Basically you can use the Vitalin almost dry, but I prefer a reasonably wet mix for the Spod.
  19. And the maximum that you can concentrate on CCTV for is a maximum of 20minutes! Its down to Education again. Everyone (though not us) thinks that that is what Street Cleaners/Bailiffs are there for, its happens everywhere and not just at Fisheries. The Lake I was at today had Bins behind almost every other swim and there was no Rubbish about and its Day Ticket now. I think the right to Ban Litter droppers should be exercised and enforced
  20. Good idea, but we already moan about Big Brother watching. Well Bailliffed waters with regular checks would help. Actually check Rod licences when arriving on (Day ticket) Waters and then if the Peg has litter in when an Angler leaves then the angler should be banned. LOL, You and me both
  21. Litter is an Absolute PET HATE of Mine. From bits of line and general Rubbish. I must admit to dropping my Tab end of Roll Ups, but since its paper and tobacco only and NO Filter. Yet Filter ends I pick up and put in the bin bag. I seem to go home with more litter than I know I made, carrier bags and Bait Bucket almost always filled up with mine and what I picked up The strangest thing though, why do people take great care in pushing a Bag of Litter into the Deepest darkest Brambles, risking Life and Cuts and Prickles? it takes less effort to take it home. The absolute worst though has to be people who can't be bothered to tidy up after having a Dump on the Bank, leaving Excrement and Bog roll about is disgusting. BAG IT AND BIN IT or BURY IT!
  22. If you add Crushed or Grilled Hemp you can quite literally make the Groundbait explode from the Spod or Feeder
  23. The only thing stopping what you add to Vitalin is your Imagination. Pellets, whole and Powdered, Hemp, Pigeon Conditioner, other Particles, Tuna, other Groundbaits, Bread Crumb, Base Mix, Robin Red, Spices, Gravy Powder, Whole/Crushed/Crumbled Boilies I regularly add Particles to my Vitalin and the best way I have found is to prepare it the night before you use it, easy even on the Bank if you take a Large Bucket of ready Prepared Particles. The water of the Particles gets absorbed by the Vitalin, just play around until you get the right amount to do what you want with it. This mix is soft enough to go in a Spod, or stiff enough to be used as Groundbait and Balled in or Method Fished
  24. Potassium sorbate is a mild preservative. Its primary use is as a food preservative (E number 202). Its molecular formula is C6H7O2K and its systematic name is potassium (E,E)-hexa-2,4-dienoate. Potassium sorbate is effective in a variety of applications including food, wine, and personal care. Potassium sorbate is the potassium salt of sorbic acid. Potassium sorbate is used to inhibit molds, microbes and yeast and to increase shelf life, and is used in such tiny quantities that there is no known adverse health effects. Like I said I don't like Potassium Sorbate in my food, its not got a good reaction with Yeasts Either, which I used to use in a lot of my Bait, also I like the 2day old sugar and enzyme forming on baits from the freezer. Potassium Sorbate prevents this from forming.
×
×
  • Create New...