salokcinnodrog

No, I didn't misunderstand you Read it carefully The actual choice of rig, hook and hooklink etc is down to you, but Keith has just given what works for him. It may depend on how the fish on YOUR local lake behave, so you will have to get some time down there watching them, and seeing how they feed, where they feed etc , then base your decisions on that. What works for one person does not work for others. I absolutely love Daiwa Sensor line, others hate it. I don't like Korda Hooks, and avoid them, so what I would recommend will be different to other people Knots for Fluoro, from the SEARCH FACILITY click here http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=32234&highlight=flurocarbon http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=38614&highlight=fluorocarbon The answers to some of your questons can be found on here already, as I said, it will be differing opinions from various people. BUT, the person who has to work it out in the end is YOU

Superstiff dissolves in water, so it reverts back to a soft braid Does using a Coated braid give you the option? It will reduce tangles, and you can still have a length of uncoated/stripped braid near the hook

No, cos the Run Ring has a link to the Lead; Just imagine this pic with no tubing: Running Lead Set-up using Tubing: The tubing is normally only there to prevent tangles or occasionally to provide abrasion resistance and protect the mainline.

I used to use Solar Bullet Buffer beads, it may be worth having a look and see if the new "re-design" will still take tubing if you need it. http://www.solartackle.co.uk/adv_rg/adv_rg06.html#beads2

Like Keith and the others I try to keep it as simple as possible, although my choice is for Solar Running Rigs. Run Ring on Line first, Buffer Bead, then Hooklink attached to swivel. The only reason for tubing as I use it, is to protect from some snags, and in the majority of cases there is no need for it. It does reduce sensitivity, and makes the End Tackle more visible to the fish

Ooer Mrs I believe that there is another thread mentioning Superstiff somewhere, and a sneaky little tip about a Concertina rig

The last thread on Orchid, maybe unfortunately, was this: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=33588&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=orchid&start=25 Very little on how to fish it, and I can't see much on the other Orchid threads either (YES I DID LOOK), but from what I can remember from Magazines is that it has often been a case of spodded pellets and bright hookbait over the top, or just a Hi Viz pop-up. Not sure how true that is, maybe a word with the Fishery Manager/Owner can yield more up to date? (Thread moved into UK Where to Fish)

Firstly, do you absolutely need to use a Leader? Please have a read of these: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=38886 http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=32598 http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=39794 The bottom one contains a link to CarpTalk online and the article which shows a fish that was found extremely dead attached to a Leader that had been badly constructed, and had twisted and kinked, preventing a bead sliding off. Any Leader needs to be made so that lead releases and the Carp can eject the hook. So it is probably best to use a Running Lead set-up with Fluoro leaders. http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=32234&highlight=fluorocarbon http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=38614&highlight=fluorocarbon If you do decide that you need a fluorocarbon then why not use a Mainline rather than a leader? Have a search for P-line, there are a couple of threads about it. Knots: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=32236 http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=25551

Have a read of this: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=9536 think we may have gone into rigs and rig length in this. Bear in mind you may well need to change the rig length dependant on what the fish are used to, the bottom make-up and what other people are doing. Even the distance you are casting may make some difference

PVA can be used in your favour Get the mesh and put a number of boilies in it, but when you tie it up, tighten it too much, as it dissolves the boilies often "spring" out the pva, well away from the hook. Also if you use Boilie crumb in a bag or mesh, then the only whole item is the hookbait. Also if you tie back the hooklink to the tubing then you can get away with single tangle free with one or none in free offerings. The feathering a cast gets the hooklink to kick away from the mainline, but you can also use Dissolving foam, Superstiff, or even just a wet braided hooklink with no air trapped behaves differently from a dry braided link

Mate, you may save yourself some serious ribbing if you learn towards using the search facility: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=32234&highlight=fluorocarbon http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=38614&highlight=fluorocarbon The top link is from January 2008 to January 2009 last post

The idea is interesting, obviously camouflaging the hook may or may not be important . I did try the plastic maggots to create a line aligner effect on a bottom bait rig, but I noticed a couple of hookpulls as I think the rubber on the shank impeded hooking. It may depend on how the fish pick it up, or it may depend on whether the plastic/rubber is the "bait" itself or whether you have a separate hair. I simply didn't do enough playing to be sure either way, although I do seem to think that the Mag aligner is fished as an indivdual item over maggots (DOH! pretty obvious ) I also remember that Phil Bunyan in his series on Wraysbury (a series of articles in ACF that I DID find interesting) used the outer braid from Leadcore to create a weed effect camouflage over the hook. I wonder if the buoyancy of the bait will make any difference, because that seems to cover suckers and pick it up feeders depending on what fish are feeding? Just my thinking that if Carp are feeding over particles, then you don't need a Pop-up that high off the bottom (only to get it in first; attention grabbing), but if you are not feeding in an area then the Pop-up may be better. I do know that when I use the Combi link with or without a Pop-up that my hookholds are bottom lip

Thread moved to correct section

No Problem I say it has to be 3 folds, it can actually be any odd number, but 3 works best

A slight play on words, but another Kryston product bit like PVA I also believe that Jim Gibbinson folds up his braided hooklinks in a Concertina effect (Must have 3 folds ) and uses Super Stiff to hold it together, he then has an "extending" hooklink.

Each in the right situation? If you want a totally separate hooklink all the way down then the untwisted is better. If you want to untwist just a small piece near the hook then the twisted You may find that the twisted version stops debris going between the strands, yet with the untwisted a twig or something may go between. Also both because they are very supple are in need of a Superstiff'ening to cast and reduce tangles or need to be used in a Combi link

One that gets the bait where the fish feed! It may be on top of the silt if it is the thick black stinky stuff, or it may be in it if it is rich in Natural food, more "brown" silt. And no I don't always think that the Silt/Helicopter Rig is best, it can be worth using longer braided hooklinks If you have a play with the search facility, I reckon that there are few Silt Fishing threads about

Was reading a couple of other threads on rigs and thought that I could bring this one back to the fore for some more reading. Are your rigs catching? If yes then keep using them. If you start to find that results dry up then you may need to adapt, but bear in mind the effectiveness of your rigs can depend on how or what you feed, just by increasing the free bait may make them effective again. Have a read http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=37416 Carp picking up individual baits may need to have different rigs from those feeding over a bed of bait. It may be as simple as the length of the rig or the hair. I do know that when I use Pop-ups and Snowmen hookbaits I tend to "complicate" the issue as I prefer to use a D-rig set-up for them, don't ask why, a Confidence issue I guess

Are your rigs catching? If yes then keep using them. If you start to find that results dry up then you may need to adapt, but bear in mind the effectiveness of your rigs can depend on how or what you feed, just by increasing the free bait may make them effective again. Have a read http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=37416 http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=9536&highlight=complicated+rigs

Viscount and Markhams had the full Drennan Range of Hooks, Super Spades, etc

A thread on The Chase in Dagenham:http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=30682&highlight=chase If you post on an existing thread you bring it back to the top of the section

Like you I prefer spades for small fish as well, although I found with the knot that you get with the Knot tyer (the "twist to tighten" tyer) is perfect for making a hair on larger hooks so I bought up a supply of the Spade end Owners that were about around 15years ago. They worked nicely with braided hooklinks as well. Flipping heck, we're getting "least" ejection without realising it on smaller fish

Unfortunately it does happen at times. You trap some moisture between the tubing and the hook and it causes corrosion, or where the hook eye is it starts to corrode for some reason, even on supposedly rust free hooks. The "rust free" is usually because of a coating of some sort, a hook may get scratched by sharpening or on the lakebed, but the eye area or even the barb seems to get a thinner or missing coating. Keith Was it 10 years ago that Drennan "bought out" Kamasan or was it longer? I used to use both depending on which Tackle shop I went into, although I can't remember the Kamasan or Komatsu number (before Kamasan, same company ) Tucker, If you can get hold of them, Spade ends in larger sizes are very good for Perfect Line Align style with the hooklink material coming from the front of the spade

I'll give another answer as to why I got so wound up other than the obvious Death Rig scenario: Rig Tying Stickies, Lead Set-ups http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=37603 IT IS ALREADY POSTED ON THE FORUM, it takes little common sense to find it. I was not patronising, I was disgusted . You want me to be patronising, and say Oh that is such a good rig, it will work? The chance of that is an absolute No way. I gave a constructive comment (actually link) to a thread that may answer a few questions and so that you can use or set up a safe rig. The question as to how to set up a safe rig has been answered many times, and Tcbuk, I'm pretty positive you have participated in those threads ( http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=31293) and so know that an Upline Swivel is a Big No No! Use a little of that Common sense Please! The only reason that you will be able to log on is so that you larn Darn quick about Rig Safety

I saw that pic and I'm very slowly counting to 10, but at the moment I'm putting swear words between every figure. Think my usual "Kick the PC, headbutt the door, roll a ciggie, kick the front door, smoke and then back via the headbutted items again may well come into play. PLEASE FOR YOUR SAKE IF I EVER SEE IT, AND FOR THE SAKE OF THE FISH DO NOT USE THAT RIG AS IT STANDS, REMOVE THE TOP SWIVEL OF THAT SET-UP, DO NOT SUPERGLUE BEADS ONTO TUBING. YES I DO INTEND TO SHOUT AT THAT, IT IS DISGUSTING . You have been a member of this forum since September 2007 and you think to make a rig like that is acceptable fishing? There are absolutely loads of threads about Running rigs, Rig Safety etc. Either a VERY bad taste wind-up, or APPALLING Fishing (sorry I REFUSE to call it angling ). My nice part of this post: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=26640