chillfactor

So I take it the braid has slipped behind the eye where it bends round , and doesn't quite meet the back of the hook going down ? If your first rap of braid is always the other side of the hook this won't happen .

Hi Phil ,I take it your rapping the braid away from the open part of the eye when you make your rigs ?

I've heard a few people mention these ace hooks open up. I've been using the avid hooks, and I'm really impressed with them .Strong super sharp out of the pack and no need to keep touching them up with a file , they have remained sharp after a few sessions and fish .

I think what normally happens hear dal, is you you just set up your hives permanently in the farmers crops . As you can't just pick up a hive and move it , the bees would return to where you took them from . I think I can remember reading that you can move the hive 3 ft a day without annoying the colony to much. Still a novice myself so could be wrong .

We found the swarm in the spring ... got them settled in there new hive . I don't know how much you know about bee keeking Buzz , but you have the brood chamber where the queen does her sole job of laying eggs and the honey supers ( chambers) where you harvest your honey from . The queen is unable to enter the honey supers due to a grid with gaps to small for her to pass through, so she can't lay eggs in there . So when you get a new swarm the first job is to get the colony going in the brood chamber then you add the honey supers later..... We should get a fairly good crop in a few weeks , next year will be even better though . Really enjoying it if the truth be told

Taxi for Tim Thought about it Andy but 60.0000 names is an awful lot lol

Not exactly a pet I know,but after finding a swarm down our field in the spring have taken up bee keeking .

Hi mate , I just googled him and found the website , but there are no prices on there . What sort of money are we talking ? unless he's allot cheaper personally I would go with cotswold rods . where are you based ? you can have a day down at cotswold rods trying blanks out and then they will make them to your spec taking in to consideration your height and build etc and what you need them for so you end up with a rod built just for you and your needs .

Woody you nanner its Phil from the other site talk on there.

Nope I'm from Gloucestershie Phil

If your a Gloucester boy woody won't you be Out on a date with your sister tonight

I did try the IQ material last year and to be fair caught on it when braid was struggling for some reason on one of the waters I was fishing... but if you use it for the hair material as well I found it kinked after a fish or two and gave me poor presentation so I used it down to hook then had a braid hair was quite an effective little rig .

snap still have a spool, 7lb, ....still has its uses too eh mate....got 9lb and 11lb.....still got some bulk spools of 11lb sylcast sorrel mainline that I keep telling myself to spool up with when you get your new reels you can mate... did the insurance company specify a company to buy all your replacement kit from? I hear that's happening more and more now .

another vote for the ace pop up pegs coupled with the esp shank stops really simple.... like me

Thanks Nick always like the reasoning behind rig evolution.. as a matter of interest where were you hooking them.. bottom lip ? or a mixture of hook holds ?

There are a couple of advantages... One as you state doesn't tangle on the cast also gives you good presentation on the bottom as your hook length will stay straighter on landing...also very good abrasion properties compared to just braid which is the reason I use it on the river I fish over here mate... A normal uncoated braid frays quite quickly where I fish on rocks etc but A coated one will easily last me a session... like you say strip the coating back to tie your hook on and leave at least an inch or 2 striped above the hook for more natural movement. hope this helps a little mate Phil

Hi Nick can you run me through the pluses of this set up and reasoning behind it in more detail ? Thanks Phil

Looking at the video a heavy bottom bait would of been allot better ... And I can see exactly your point John makes sense to me

Good thread this lads given me some food for thought on improving my rigs. The few times I have been carp fishing this year has seen me strike into nothing after one toners a couple of times which always gets you thinking and wondering, but then the next cast one toner and fish on...It's just trying to work out what might of happened different between the two takes

I have heard that to but others have said korda hooks are ok, I will be trying without silicone when im next on the bank and if that doesnt work i will be looking at new hooks, Fox and nash hooks are the 2 alot of people have recommended Gardner mugga's are worth a look to mate

How has it caught 100's of carp if they haven't seen it?! Lol Being serious though Kev. Do you really think that it has a rate as high as 99% of carp not being able to eject or is it tongue in cheek? If so, what makes the results so high? I honestly don't think that there is a rig out there that can have that sort of ratio between getting the bait picked up and hooking a fish. Agree with you Nige And if there was such a rig you would be better off than danny f

there's Quite a few on here that might say it's your hook...I did try korda hooks because I do use some of there other products but wasn't impressed with the hooks... I've been using gardner mugga hooks for years and have confidence in them might be worth looking at . Phil

Hi All... was just wondering what knots you prefer and use for different jobs? Phil