salokcinnodrog

Best search is Leadcore vs Fluorocarbon or Invisible Leaders, think there have been 6/7threads recently on this if you have a look

I think that everyones opinions are valid, but I do make sure that my Leadcore rigs can eject the Lead and don't get jammed up. I don't even have a problem with the splices at either end of the Leadcore and they are NOT GLUED as the splice pulls tight onto itself. I use 15lb Mainline attached to the Leadcore with a Uni knot into the splice and have not had a Snap-up since I started using it. The Hooklink is 15lb either in Braid/Coated Braid or Amnesia The weak spot in any set-up is going to be the Knots. The knot that attaches the hooklink or the Knot attaching the Leadcore to the Mainline. I have full confidence in attaching the Mainline to the Leadcore with a Uni Knot and the hooklink to swivel with loop knot or Uni Knot, knowing that if anything breaks it will be the Swivel knot. I have landed Hard Fighting Carp on this set-up to well over 20lbs.

I can't see why not. It is the weight of the lead that gets the distance, just by tidying the hooklink up by nicking the point of the hook into the pva you could actually be increasing distance. No bait and that flapping around

:D

You can still use stringers, but that causes the cast to wobble slightly. The hooklink doesn't have to be free to revolve in the cast as what makes the distance of the cast is the Lead momentum and velocity.

Yes, it is probably safer to the Carp. If you have the Helicopter swivel going on the Mainline there is the possibility that because you are pulling against the Carp at an angle that it will eventually break the Line. If you use Tubing you prevent much of this damage that MAY be caused. If you have a Snap-up with a helicopter how long will it be before the Carp is able to eject the Lead, hook and hooklink?

Yes you can use Mini bags or Fishnet PVA on a Heli rig. If you attach them to the Lead then your feed may be a little way away from the Hookbait though. You can attach PVA to the hook though If you use really small bags about the size of a 50p piece and get the Bait and some freebies in the Pva it works nicely, just get it as round as possible.

Carp-R-Us Nailers in both the standard and Longshank verisons are very sharp, sticky sharp. I have found that they go in and stay in. I have not lost a fish on them since I started using them. LongShanks work well for Pop-ups for me and I prefer the standard for bottom baits. If you need a strong hook in the same style have a look at the Carp-R-Us Centurions a look as well.

I use Trilene XL for Floater fishing, very thin and very strong. Good Line for hooklinks, just not as a Mainline

Sorry Just reading through this Thread again and double checked the validity of some of the posts, against my thoughts and noticed this. Not being funny but a Combi Rig is not a Simple Rig! It is an advanced presentation designed for use where Braid was needed for Subtlety yet unable to be fished as Total Braid is not Tangle free. Most hooks can be made more effective by lengthening the Shank of the Hook, either with a Stiff Presentation or by adding Tubing of some form. By Stiff Presentation You could stiffen up by other means, not just tubing. Yet ShortShanked wide Gape Hooks seem to be the Best Selling hooks of the moment, so why are we fishing with a presentation that is Naturally inefficient? Going back over my Last Post I just noticed I put that I prefer Short Shanked Hooks, but even these I lengthen with a Line Aligner/tubing.

If you had done a search you would have found this thread, same question: http://www.carp.com/forum/t18003/s.html

Piece of Cake! Use a Gardner tube threader, diamond eye Pole Threader, or Amnesia

Description straight from Solar Tackle:

I use ESP Leadcore and Running Leads and a Slack Line for the majority of my Fishing and there are quite a few posts on this subject if you have a search. I think that with Running Leads you are actually increasing the sensitivity and get a better indication. The Leadcore keeps the Line down to the Lakebed and provides a bit of resistance to a Taking Fish, but I don't think enough weight for the Carp to use it as a Lever to use to eject the hook. Also if using Barbless enough resistance to hold the hook in on the Take. Incidentally I have not lost a fish on this set-up since I have started using it with Barbed or Barbless hooks. I use Solar Run Rings, Buffer Beads and beads for all of my fishing as I found that they work for me and prefer to avoid using Korda Tackle as Solar are the original and in my view the Best. The thread below has a pic of my Leadcore set-up, which is spliced at both ends and set so I can change rigs in seconds. The rest of the thread is about Hook Sharpness. http://www.carp.com/forum/showthread.php?threadid=17291

I'll stick with using as little Nash gear as I can. Just don't like the company!

As you are playing a fish the hook is likely to work deeper into the Fishes Lip anyway. I think what The Triggalink is made to do is pull straight into a good hookhold;) Since I have a bungee style rig system that I can use I don't see the need to try it, plus as you say its made by Nash.

Oh and not forgetting Supersilk. It is bright white out of the Packet, but takes on the Colour of the Lakebed within minutes.

I've got a Rig that does that anyway!

I use Braid for most of my Fishing. Either Coated Kryston or Ordinary Kryston Braids. My Favourite on any bottom is either Merlin or Mantis Gold.

Have a look at this thread: http://www.carp.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=17033 Complete pic and I think from memory a description of What I use.

You can cut down Tangles on Mono Hooklengths by using PVA presentations, either a Stringer or a Bag. Some rigs tangle on the retrieve as you pick up the Lead, yet in the water they are Untangled, so it appears you may have had a Tangle, yet you didn't. Because the Lead is in the middle of the coil as you pick up to retrieve, the Hooklength tangles around the Lead. :D

Also try cutting the Fluorocarbon into a Point for threading back through the Hook Eye. Tying onto the swivel I use the Loop knot recommended in the Kryston Packaging. Stick up a search as there was a pic for it posted not that long ago.

I have found that the majority of hooklink Materials loop up, its caused by the tension of the Swivel Knot, so a loop knot may help. I have found that it can be worth putting little pieces of Putty down the hooklink to get it to fall over.

Had you removed any of the Coating? The section that you remove the coating from may get air trapped between the fibres. If this is a problem give it a rub with some Putty, or squeeze it out when its wet.