salokcinnodrog

The amount of experiments I did on a Runs water last year between trips on my Big Fish water, strangely enough it was always the simple rigs that worked on the Runs Water. This is a water that is heavily fished by the Match Style Anglers. Simple rigs and baiting situations beat the "Complicated Rigs" hands down. I actually lost a couple of fish on the more "advanced" presentations where I had been playing around. Running Lead and Paternostered rigs definately produced the most strikable indications. I also found that on very short Stiff type presentations produced more lost fish than anything as well. My feelings are that the Carp were being hooked at the extreme edge of the Lip and as I was playing them the hook worked free. Yet to lengthen the rig and switch to braid produced more fish without loss.

I agree entirely. I look on any Blank as I got something wrong. Ok on a 167 acre water I can get location entirely wrong, but its down to me not thinking my way into fish. You proved my point entirely, you had fish in front and were able to work out how to hook them, by Just shortening your rigs you have done something different.

Sorry to attach the hook I still use a Knotless Knot.

I like the Loop Knot that is pictured on the Kryston Packing, never had it fail.

Thats what amazes me, why the Head scratching? Just by altering the Hair length or rig length then many problems can be overcome. No rig is going to work every time and hook every fish, but just by changing one of those things you create a NEW set of Circumstances for the Carp to deal with. No Matter what though, No rig will work in the slightest if it isn't anywhere near a Carp, its LOCATION that is the error in most cases, not the Rig

I, me, personally have never used it, and after watching a close friend of mine lose a big fish on it when it sheared under pressure I won't. He had played a fish out from under Lilies and then for no apprent reason it just gave way in open water. He later put a Carp on the bank from exactly the same spot that was 20lbs+ that Fought exactly the same. The fish he landed was caught on a 15lb Amnesia hooklink.

Ian, From the description you have given that sounds the same as the BFA Deception that was about a few(?) years ago. I've posted a pic of a Withy rig tied on it that I'm using on a water that has Crayfish in it. Unfortunately the colour doesn't show up very well, but I have noticed it doesn't show up in the water either. Nailers, Yes they are Sharp. Now you know why I like them so much, and very strong for their size. If you think they are good, have a look at the Centurions, slightly stronger, but same sort of shape as Owner FLB's.

The extra Water Pressure speeding up the Ingress of water into the Bait you mean and pushing the Air out? No I don't understand in the slightest:p :D

Its simply a different presentation of your hookbait. I've used it when Floater fishing with a very short hair, keeping the Biscuit close to the hook. Found it can work better than a normal hair for floater fishing. It also works well with a pop-up, when you want to keep the hook hidden, but very close to the bottom. Try it with the shot on the hook rig that Frank Warwick likes, or with a pop-up that only just lifts the hook.

You are going to get loads of different answers as so many people prefer different things and different materials suit different lakes. I tend to use Kryston Super Mantis, Mantis Gold, Snakebite and Snakeskin, Merlin and Amnesia for my rigs.

Have a look at these threads regarding Fluorocarbons: http://www.carp.com/forum/t17040/s.html http://www.carp.com/forum/t11673/s.html http://www.carp.com/forum/t16933/s.html Loads of views on these threads from different people, they cover knots, when people use them and length. A simple Knotless knot presentation and/or Line Aligner is the easiest to tie.

For pop-ups try tying a loop at the end of the hair using a Uni or Grinner knot. Then put a pop-up bait in the loop and tighten it down. You can then just put the hook on with a Normal Knotless knot. Easy enough to change the bait then:D I don't think that any bait that is punctured will stay the same as you are making a spot where water can get into the Bait. That is the same for bottom baits or Pop-ups. Look how soft bottom baits can get after being put on the hair and taking in water. The only time I really use a D-rig is with Snowman presentations, although it does work well with Pop-ups. I just use Pop-ups so infrequently on my Normal water because I want my Hookbait to be the same as my Free Offerings.

As Courtz says, 10lb of Leader Strength per ounce of Lead wiith Nylon Leaders, but if you decide to use a Braided Shockleader then DOUBLE that, as there is NO stretch. Also with a Braided Leader I would recommend using a Finger Stall. I use Drennan 40lb Greased Weasel in Grey or Amnesia for Shockleaders, but other people recommend Tapered Leaders. I have tried them but can't get on with them If you don't use a Shockleader then steveofar has highlighted what happens with a CrackOff, and a Crackoff can travel FOUR OR FIVE times or even more the distance of your normal cast. So imaging you are casting 120metres, a Crackoff could travel 600metres, that is nearly HALF a MILE.

Fair opinion, at least you give a reason for disliking it. Fly fisherman huh? Nothing wrong with that, been known to fling a few feathers and fur about myself. For leaders for that I use Drennan Double strength or their Flyline Mono. I have also used Clear Amnesia when attaching a wire trace for Fly Fishing for Pike. Like you I worry about the fracture caused by the Fluorocarbon twisting over itself. I think the problem with Fluorocarbon is that there are so many different types/brands and all have different recommendations as to knots and BS. The same line from 2 Suppliers could have 2 different Breaking Strains dependant on who is marketing it. Its just finding out what suits you, and that can get expensive.

I used to use it years ago as a Shockleader and never had any problems with it. It just looks like a pale weed stem in the water as long as it is not fished too tight. One thing I would say though is the majority of the time I fish with very slack lines. Another thing I would cover it up with tubing near the Lead, as I have heard that it can get underneath scales and ping them off.

You may find that you are losing Indication and possibly Takes by the Front of the Lead and the Rig Swivel bedding into the Clay, effectively shortening your Hooklength. I would suggest that you change to a Helicopter or Pendant style Lead arrangement depending on the Distance you are fishing at. Depending on Water Clarity you may find a hooklength that is camouflaged, but Clay waters tend to be fairly coloured so fish with what ever Hooklink material you are comfortable with. For clay I have found that Kryston Silkworm, Supersilk and Mantis Gold are pretty well matched to the colour of the Lakebed. Supersilk may look a bit bright white, but it takes on the colour of the Lakebed and so camouflages itself. If you prefer Fluorocarbons or Mono Hooklengths fish with them. Just keep your rigs fairly simple, knotless knot and/or Line Aligner. The easiest things to change to increase takes are the length of the rig and/or the hair.

Is that the BFA Deception that was around or the new one Ian? I did like the BFA version, then it got hard to get hold of. I think I have had 1 maybe 2 hookpulls on the Nailers in 4years. The hookpull I think was down to me fishing too short a hair, as once I lengthened it I haven't lost a fish due to that since. They are spot on, very sharp and stay in.

Buzzbomb, Good to see innovation has not been lost Any bottle will do. I use to use Shampoo Bottles or Washing Up Liquid Bottles and cut the top off. Cut a piece of Foam or Polystyrene to the inside diameter of the Bottle and push it to the Bottom. At the top I would then drill 3 equidistant holes and using 15kg Amnesia, crimp 3 lengths through the Holes. Tie a swivel to the 3 lengths and then cover with Silicone Rig Tubing for tidiness.

Depends How long my hooklinks are! If I fish with a short 10-15cms hooklength I'll normally use about a 30cms. If I go up to using 60cm hooklengths then I'll use 120cm of tubing.

Sorry I disagree with having No Shockleader. I put a 4metre Length of 30lb Amnesia at the End of the Braid. Reason being with a Shockleader you have a Margin for Error and some stretch. If you mistime a Cast with No Shockleader you can cut your finger through to the Bone. If you crack off with just Braid you may well have lost a lot of Braid, but if you have a Crack Off with a shockleader the Chances are it will go at the knot joining the 2 together.

Not sure about that Coops. I have used In-lines a Lot in weed and had no problems. Maybe it's the way I use them in PVA bags. I put the hook and Bait in one corner and the Lead in the other, then fill bag with bait and close the top of the Bag around the Tubing. The Braided Rig is close to the Lead so I get quick indication. Even with stringers I had no problems, again maybe down to my way of attaching stringers. PVA tied/looped through the Swivel and hook. I.e Double your PVA and loop it through swivel, then back through loop. Attach bait to stringer then put hook through the PVA itself. I used In-lines at SWP and had no problems with Weed getting stuck on the Lead as I reeled in. Pendant Leads and Lead Clips I have found to jam up, even if fished properly as stated on Manufacturers packing, with the rubber only just holding the Lead on. I have even resorted to tying the Lead on in weed and had no Problems. I have lost fish with Helicopter set-ups, where the angle of Line on rig swivel has chafed across the tubing. Also I found Bite Indication far reduced with Helicopter set-ups, maybe it is down to Pressured Fish feeling for the Lead? I also found that in weed the Helicopter set up with the Lead trailing the Fish kept the fish lower in the water than an "Normal" up the line Lead Attachment. Mind you for the past few year I have been using Running Leads in Weed or near snags and can't remember the last time I lost a fish. A big Solar Run Ring doesn't get jammed up with Weed and The Ressie is very weedy in places. Think we'll get different answers on this, probably down to the way each of us fishes and has found to work for them;) :D

It is not particularly suitable for use in weedy waters. You are creating an angle across the lead/line as you are playing a fish. You risk more fish snagging up/snap off using the Helicopter set-ups in weed. Far better to use an IN-LINE set-up, as the Lead does not get snagged up in weed. Weed just slides over the Lead. Even a Pendant set-up with a Safety Clip can cause problems in weedy waters.

Only as a weak link, same as tying a lead on for weed.

You can learn a hell of a lot from Books. Like the fact that Rod Hutchinson recommended Suspended Baits in The Carp Strikes Back about 20 YEARS AGO. And also for doubling up on Paternoster Lengths when you fish Paternosted Floating Baits. He recommended the Use of a Fixed and a Bolt Rig for Suspended Baits, as he called them, not a Blooming Zig Rig He also recommended using 1-3lb line for 2-3 oz Leads. Just attach it with PVA when Casting, lol and it doesn't break

Prefer Solar Tubing Myself, nicely matches the Lake bed. I think they also have the distribution on the Armourtube which I have used.