salokcinnodrog

Only used 40lb as a Shockleader Mate, I Use the 30lb as the Boom section on Combi Rigs. For some reason the Black seems more supple than the Clear! So I tend to use the Clear for the Boom and the Black as a Shockleader. The thicker starins I have trouble knotting and end up pulling the Knots tight in the 40lb Tight with a pair of long nose pliers! 30lb stuff is responsible for a couple of chips in my Teeth as well!

Which ones have you used? Just ask because I've found that the Kryston ones are ok and not stiff. Or again each and everyone to what suits them

I use 15lb Amnesia for some of my rigs, and in Combi Rigs I use the 30lb Strain. The Loop knot:http://www.basspro.com/servlet/catalog.CFPage?appID=84&template=knot4.cfm Complete with an explanation as well

I have been using Kryston Merlin for years with no problems. Same Problem with lots of Braids and there is an answer to it. Some may get air trapped in between the fibres, even though branded as a Sinking Braid. Get them wet first, squeeze the water out and then cast them out after testing. Other people rub Putty up and down the braid to sink it, or Kryston did or still do a product called "drop em", which you put small pieces on the Braid.

Lol, Sometimes I do, sometimes I don't. If you bury the hook with a Pop-up, all of a sudden as the Carp are snaffling the feeder they see a piece apparently break free and may take it as a result! By the same token if you don't put it in the Method Ball the Carp may see it as a piece that has broken free on the way down and take it. So the answer is see what works best for you, and then change it about to see what results you get as they may get wise to one or the other at different times! I would increase the length of the Hooklink slightly though, probably to about 15cm.

If its that coloured It's unlikely to matter what colour hooklink you use. If you want to have a play and see what works best or what you are comfortable with

That be what I reckon as well. If you want to match up then have a look at Kryston Mantis Gold. Nice Brown Colour or I think Wychwood market a Deception braid in a Brown flecked Camouflage version (used to be sold by Big Fish Adventure)

http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=22185 Try These Mate. I use them for the Majority of my Fishing anywhere. If you want to use pop-ups you can use these just adding Putty or shot to the Hooklink.

So how's it all work with the Terry Hearn Combi rig (as someone else noted) and the various designs of chod rigs out there these days. I think on any given day either supple or stiff could work. Ian, I can't argue with Tery Hearns results on his Pop-Up rig, but I think that with the 2 lengths of Stiff material it sits too high off the Bottom of the Lake. My main concern is that I prefer to fish pop-ups over a Background feed and feel that with a very high pop-up it may get ignored or lead to Foul hooking! Again I found than on the Waters I fish that the Chod Rigs seem to sit too high and also that where some of the Fish have holed up I couldn't use the Chod Rig to get a Bait to them comfortably. (Right Under Trees)

Between 2-8feet of Line, simple and easy! Either attached to a swivel, or with a Water knot to the Mainline and a Stop and bead preventing the controller coming down the link. For hooklengths I use Trilene XL in 7lb, but others like Drennan Fly leader, Preston Powerline etc.

Try this thread, basic Rigs and how to tie that. Maybe a bit basic since you've fished before, but a good starting point for the majority of people to have some experimentation with http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=22185

The top one is a link to a Carp.com article in the Magazine. The second link is how to create the splice. http://www.carp.com/article191.html http://www.carp-uk.net/rigs/leadcore/leadcore.htm I splice BOTH ends and leave them large enough so that I can get my hooklink swivel through the end. I then attach the hooklink as a Loop to loop. The Knot I use to attach the Mainline to the other spliced loop is a Uni/Grinner Knot. Never had one give way or a Crackoff!

Ah right... I stand corrected then Nick, thanks for showing me up in public mate I apologise Wholeheartedly! It was only becasue I have a Wychwood Catalogue in front of me and an article that Colin Davidson wrote about Crimping. Think its a bit of trying to publicise their products I wouldn't trust Crimped Rigs on Nylon either. Not even Sea Fishing, I have seen some catastrophes that have been narrowly avoided by crimps coming apart.

Not as far as I know Chris but it's just not something i'd like to do with my rigs mate I think Wychwood recommended a particular type of line that they marketed and their own double barrelled Crimps

So how's it all work with the Terry Hearn Combi rig (as someone else noted) and the various designs of chod rigs out there these days. I think on any given day either supple or stiff could work. My worry is the extra Knots on the hooklink mini swivel or ring! Plus I tend to fish pop-ups over a Background feed area more as a Critically Balanced bait than as a Real Pop-up. My pop-ups are very close to the Lake bed, unless I'm fishing over decaying Leaf and smelly silt. Another thing with Pop-ups is I don't like to cast them in with a Normal stringer as I worry about the stringer dragging the Hookbait down and the point getting clogged up.

I normally fish it straight through, not worrying about a Hooklength. If I'm fishing in a snaggy area I will put on a weaker Hooklength so if I get snapped off then the Carp can get rid of it easily. Incidentally in the Pic it states 3-6lb line, please increase this for the sake of Carp to 6lb minimum dependant on Carp Size you are fishing for!

I'll answer the Pop-up Hooklength, the other you should put another post up for in Carp Fishing. I've switched this to UK Rig Tying as well. I prefer to use a long Braided Hooklength for Pop-ups, I want as supple a Hooklink as I can get away with. A stiffer material may not be taken in properly as the Bait is sucked in. My Normal length is about 15cms for Pop-up hooklengths and I use simple rigs as well. A Uni/Grinner knot loop and the hook knotless knotted on. My favourite patterns are Kamasan B175's, Drennan Super Specialist or Carp-R-Us Longshank Nailers.

Whatever you prefer Mate. The loop allows a bit of flexibility and movement around the swivel, but if you don't have the loop you have instant "Hit" from the Lead! Plus you can also use those ringed swivels. I just don't trust the knots strength of Hybrid after testing it in my Garage!

Use a small peacock waggler float with all the shotting load pinched on close to the hook and see when a fish stands on its nose and sucks the bait in, how the float tip 'lifts' . Strike instantly! Not all bites lift the float. If a fish is moving along the bottom in the opposite direction the float simply sails away. • Fix the waggler at the bottom with a silicone sleeve. • The shot that's on the bottom should be two to four inches from the hook. But be prepared to adjust either way if hittable bites do not materialise.

Hi Mate, Welcome to the Forum. I have seen a few rigs where Crimping was recommended. For certain Stiff Rigs it was supposed to get exact Lengths and dimension required. Unfortunately it needed to use the Correct type of Nylon and specific type of Crimps as the standard Pike Crimps didn't work on Nylons at times. If you are worried about your knots for swivles I would suggest the Uni/Grinner Knot for swivels and the same or a Knotless Knot for hooks. If you look at the Sticky Basic Rigs at the top of the Rig Tying Section there are a few pics of Rigs in there with a pic and description of a Knotless knot. This method works with nearly all Hooklength materials. Nick

I fished it last year then Personal Crisis meant I couldn't renew mmy Ticket this year. I've got unfinished business on there though!

Ardleigh, in the middle of nowhere

No, honestly not Never fished it in my life, never been there sir, it wasn't me Nick

Hi Mate, I've been using a lot of Kryston SuperMantis and Mantis Gold. That has a stiff outer coating and a supple inner and found no problems with it. I found its Breaking Strain very consistent compared to the Korda Hybrid. I have seen Hybrid part for no apparent reason, whereas the Mantis has played fish around snags and rubbed against them with no problems. In fact one fish I played at Ardleigh actually ran around a Buoy and I had to play it back round it. The Buoy was either Chain or rope covered in Mussels and I played it back. The Mainline was fragged, but the outer coating on the Mantis was worn, but didn't break and the Inner core was intact.

HI Mate, There is a sticky on Rig Tying showing basic Rigs: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=22185 Inline Lead Set-ups: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=22075 Running Lead set-ups:http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=21867 The Tubing I use is Solar and is normally 5-10cms longer than the Rig. Solar Run Ring, Buffer bead all make up the rest. The reason I use Solar is that it works for me and I personally think that it is better stuff than Korda! You can get the Solar Running rig set as a complete pack, they also do the Semi-Fixed Bolt Rigs Accesories or Business End on their website http://www.solartackle.co.uk/ If you look up Zig Rig as a Specific Thread i think you'll find a few threads come up with some Pics!