salokcinnodrog

Whatever you prefer Mate. The loop allows a bit of flexibility and movement around the swivel, but if you don't have the loop you have instant "Hit" from the Lead! Plus you can also use those ringed swivels. I just don't trust the knots strength of Hybrid after testing it in my Garage!

Use a small peacock waggler float with all the shotting load pinched on close to the hook and see when a fish stands on its nose and sucks the bait in, how the float tip 'lifts' . Strike instantly! Not all bites lift the float. If a fish is moving along the bottom in the opposite direction the float simply sails away. • Fix the waggler at the bottom with a silicone sleeve. • The shot that's on the bottom should be two to four inches from the hook. But be prepared to adjust either way if hittable bites do not materialise.

Hi Mate, Welcome to the Forum. I have seen a few rigs where Crimping was recommended. For certain Stiff Rigs it was supposed to get exact Lengths and dimension required. Unfortunately it needed to use the Correct type of Nylon and specific type of Crimps as the standard Pike Crimps didn't work on Nylons at times. If you are worried about your knots for swivles I would suggest the Uni/Grinner Knot for swivels and the same or a Knotless Knot for hooks. If you look at the Sticky Basic Rigs at the top of the Rig Tying Section there are a few pics of Rigs in there with a pic and description of a Knotless knot. This method works with nearly all Hooklength materials. Nick

I fished it last year then Personal Crisis meant I couldn't renew mmy Ticket this year. I've got unfinished business on there though!

Ardleigh, in the middle of nowhere

No, honestly not Never fished it in my life, never been there sir, it wasn't me Nick

Hi Mate, I've been using a lot of Kryston SuperMantis and Mantis Gold. That has a stiff outer coating and a supple inner and found no problems with it. I found its Breaking Strain very consistent compared to the Korda Hybrid. I have seen Hybrid part for no apparent reason, whereas the Mantis has played fish around snags and rubbed against them with no problems. In fact one fish I played at Ardleigh actually ran around a Buoy and I had to play it back round it. The Buoy was either Chain or rope covered in Mussels and I played it back. The Mainline was fragged, but the outer coating on the Mantis was worn, but didn't break and the Inner core was intact.

HI Mate, There is a sticky on Rig Tying showing basic Rigs: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=22185 Inline Lead Set-ups: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=22075 Running Lead set-ups:http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=21867 The Tubing I use is Solar and is normally 5-10cms longer than the Rig. Solar Run Ring, Buffer bead all make up the rest. The reason I use Solar is that it works for me and I personally think that it is better stuff than Korda! You can get the Solar Running rig set as a complete pack, they also do the Semi-Fixed Bolt Rigs Accesories or Business End on their website http://www.solartackle.co.uk/ If you look up Zig Rig as a Specific Thread i think you'll find a few threads come up with some Pics!

Hi Mate, Don't just fish a Hooklink material because you "want to" unless you are confident of its abilities first. Before I use a Hooklink material "In Anger", it gets subjected to loads of tests. Abrasion Resistance, Sheer Resistance, Breaking Strain, how it knots and the best knot for it. All get bench and Tank Tested. About the Only hooklink material I didn't test like this was Amnesia, but I have been using it for Sea Fishing for so long I was confident in it already. The reason to avoid a Stiffer style rig in silt is that for a Stiff rig to work effectively it should be fairly short in my opinion

pmsl

There was an article on rigs Camouflaged with real weed from the water published in CarpWorld years ago. I've done this on a couple of waters to hide hooklinks in the past. When tying the rig catch a strand of the weed under your knotless knot and at the swivel end tie it to the swivel loop with a piece of fine nylon

I Wonder Why Bob did Leave Taverham Mills? Same thing happened there. He was not entirely honest about what was being caught and from where.

Ouch! I pay £8.50 fro a 100 size 8 swivels!

Good Thinking but Been used for years. It works well when using a Bottom Bait to counter Balance a Pop-up. Different Baits on 2 different hairs, or 2/3 hairs with a large quantity of Hemp/Particles on each. If the Fish are feeding on Particles they just hoover up a large Mouthful, so the mass particle is a normal food item

Different people different answers! 1) From Hook to Boilie, between 5-10mm. 2) Rig length, the majority of Carp Anglers todat are using rigs between 6-12inches long, so be different from everyone else if you can. The rig length can be as long as you want it, depending on your situation. Bear in mind though that Shorter Rigs CAN/MAY lead to increased Hookpulls. (See Complicated Rigs Thread). 3) The hair loop I just tie an Overhand knot at the end of the Hair before I tie the Hook on if I'm using Bottom Baits. 4) I use Kryston Merlin for much of my fishing, although after some comments on here I will be trying to get on with SuperNova. Other Braids I use are SuperSilk, Silkworm and Deception.

No probs Mate, The pics themselves are great and an "Idiots Guide" which is always helpful, just that point about the Glue that may make a Rig more Risky and Carp Unsafe. If the Glued splice went on a cast it could be Dangerous with a Cracked off Lead flying a lot further than a normal Cast.

Just one point on there, A properly Spliced Loop WILL NOT need gluing. By Adding Superglue you actually create a point that can break on the Leadcore as it twists. You also make another point that any bead can get trapped on! I splice mine and have landed Hard Fighting Carp to over 20lbs without gluing the splice.

Any Rig that you use for Pop-ups or Bottom Baits. You have to be confident in what works, so why change what is currently working for you? Simple Knotless Knotted Rig from Braid.

I prefer to Freeline myself, although I do have a couple of the Drennan Controllers if needed. I do also attach a PVA Bag of Surface baits to the hook when I need extra distance. Just use a different colour mixer/biscuit on the hook and you can see it against the rest.

No Probs Mate. The link up top shows the actual colour it comes in.

Khaki! It has a twin colour weave ESP Bumpf [quote} ESP Leadcore is immensely strong with a 45lb breaking strain and has a high abrasion resistance. It is ideal for heavy weed and snags while the two tone weave provides excellent camouflage. 7m per spool.

I think it works out better, why pay £2.50-£3.00 for 1 pre-tied leader when you can get a spool for £5-10. That spool will make up a lot more than 4 leaders. You can get the length you need not be forced into a 1metre leader when you may actually need 1.5metre. Also as you have discovered, the Pre-Tied ones may not be perfectly formed.

I don't think that you are the only person with that problem using that Brand! I always use ESP Leadcore, in my view it is the best. You do have to make sure that the Splice into itself is long enough to grip. I normally aim for 15-20mm and leave a large Loop.

I have not had a Leadcore Splice Break or slip. The leadcore splice works on the Chinese finger trap method, where as the outside is pulled tight it shrinks in size and traps itself on the inner part of the spice. There really is no need for glue at all as this could stop the movement of the outer core which needs to stay supple to expand and detract as required to cause the hold. If you splice into itself for about a centimetre it will stay tight on itself. Also if you make the loop large enough at the Hooklink end you can attach your swivel loop to loop method. This link shows how I attach the swivel to the Loop. http://www.carp.com/forum/showthread.php?threadid=17291

Each and every one to their Own;) I prefer the Carp-R-Us range, Nailers, Lonshank Nailers and Centurion, and then of course the Owner FLB's:D