salokcinnodrog

As you are playing a fish the hook is likely to work deeper into the Fishes Lip anyway. I think what The Triggalink is made to do is pull straight into a good hookhold;) Since I have a bungee style rig system that I can use I don't see the need to try it, plus as you say its made by Nash.

Oh and not forgetting Supersilk. It is bright white out of the Packet, but takes on the Colour of the Lakebed within minutes.

I've got a Rig that does that anyway!

I use Braid for most of my Fishing. Either Coated Kryston or Ordinary Kryston Braids. My Favourite on any bottom is either Merlin or Mantis Gold.

Have a look at this thread: http://www.carp.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=17033 Complete pic and I think from memory a description of What I use.

You can cut down Tangles on Mono Hooklengths by using PVA presentations, either a Stringer or a Bag. Some rigs tangle on the retrieve as you pick up the Lead, yet in the water they are Untangled, so it appears you may have had a Tangle, yet you didn't. Because the Lead is in the middle of the coil as you pick up to retrieve, the Hooklength tangles around the Lead. :D

Also try cutting the Fluorocarbon into a Point for threading back through the Hook Eye. Tying onto the swivel I use the Loop knot recommended in the Kryston Packaging. Stick up a search as there was a pic for it posted not that long ago.

I have found that the majority of hooklink Materials loop up, its caused by the tension of the Swivel Knot, so a loop knot may help. I have found that it can be worth putting little pieces of Putty down the hooklink to get it to fall over.

Had you removed any of the Coating? The section that you remove the coating from may get air trapped between the fibres. If this is a problem give it a rub with some Putty, or squeeze it out when its wet.

http://www.carp.com/forum/showthread.php?threadid=17291 Should be a pic on that thread link.

I splice it at both ends and then tie it to the Mainline with a Uni knot. At the rig end I have a large splice so I can just "loop to loop" the hooklink on and change rigs in seconds. I'll find a pic or link and put that on here.

I get green Hair Stops for nothing, the complete tags. I can't remember the last time I actually bought any.

You can strip as much or as little of the coating as you want. Try a look at this thread: http://www.carp.com/forum/t17011/s.html couple of rig pics on here, the second is a coated braid, but as you can see I have taken none of the coating off the hooklink. I don't like a loop to a quick Change link, I worry about security and have actually had a couple of rigs slip off quick change links. On one of the leadcore threads, if you have a search, is a pic of my quick change rig method.

It needed it. Litter was a major problem there and the whole Lake used to be Rat City

The 2 biggest that were in Days Lake died last year(?), and were normally coming out at mid 30's. In fact I think that there were only 7 fish in there in Total. It is very weedy, and only has about 7/8 swims. Not many features, but quite a few lily beds on the first swims to the left.

Yes you can use Mini bags or Fishnet PVA on a Heli rig. If you attach them to the Lead then your feed may be a little way away from the Hookbait though. You can attach PVA to the hook though If you use really small bags about the size of a 50p piece and get the Bait and some freebies in the Pva it works nicely, just get it as round as possible.

I'm not going to fish it, but I know quite a bit about the Lakes. What Lake were you planning on Fishing and what do you want to know about it?

Only problem with the V shaped ones is they can pull through a Bait.

Personally I would dump one of the swivels. Either tie your rig to a Quick Link type clip or tie your rig to a swivel and dump the one on the Leadcore. I actually splice Leadcore at the Hooklink end, just leaving a loop that I can put the Hooklink swivel on in seconds when I change rigs.

Definately the Withy Rig and the original, made before Shrink Tubing was easily available. The hook is a Size 6 Carp-R-Us Centurion.

Soft braid works well with Withy Rig. Have a look at this thread: http://www.carp.com/forum/t17011/s.html Decent Withy rig pic on here

Why do I think that we went to the same school of Fishing knowledge? lol. Many of your thoughts seem to be along the same lines as mine.

Again Not necessarily. My choice of Hook Pattern is dictated mostly by whether I'm using a Pop-up or not. For Pop-ups I prefer to use Long Shank Hooks, yet for Bottom Baits I like short shank hooks like the Standard Carp-r-Us Nailers, Centurions, Owner FLB's and the Like. If I use a Pop-up I normally switch to the Longshank Nailers and also some Nash Outpoint Hooks I bought Years ago. Although I do fish Snowman presentations with Short Shanks Hooks. Any hook can have the Shank Length extended by the use of Tubing or Shrink Tube and its easy enough just to set it up with a Line Aligner.

Not necessarily. I try to use the opposite of what other Anglers are using. Most are using Fluoro's and Mono at the moment so I'm still using Braids and Coated Braids. I have found that Braid is more supple than Mono and Fluoro's and in my mind because of this harder to eject as it crumples rather than staying stiff. Yet as we progress from mono onto braid and forwards this suppleness can lead to missed runs. It is simply the fact that I'm fishing differently to the majority of other Anglers as to why I stick with Braids. With Braid it is a matter of seconds to change the hooklength and Hairlength. I've also found, probably down to practice, that I can tie Braided Hooklengths in seconds, a lot faster than I can tie a mono/Fluorocarbon link.