salokcinnodrog

Del, Fair Point, getting liners on tight lines and working ''back" to the fish is a way of locating them. Not always at what depth they are at tho;)

Your replies are getting sharp:p and your comments are barbed:D :D

This year I've been fishing with very slack lines and running leads. My rigs are pretty basic, and are normally about 15cms long. Had a reasonably good season so far where i'm fishing, but wish I could spend more time on there. I've found that tight lines and fixed leads tend to get sussed fairly easily on some of the waters I have fished in the past, so I tend to try to be different from everyone else.

Thanks Mate, my "point" exactly;) :D

Could be a number of things causing you to lose fish on Mustad Hooks. Is your rig long enough? Is your hair long enough? If you are losing fish to hookpulls then lengthen either/both of the above. Too short and you may only just be pricking the Fish in the extremities of the lip. Are you using the right Hooklength material for the pattern of the hook? I work on the theory that inturned eyes are best with braids, straight eyes work with Fluoro/mono or braids and outurned eyes work best with Stiff Materials. Are you relying on a knotless knot? While the knotless knot is an easy way to "tie" on a hook, it is not always the most effective way at getting the point to find a hold in the lip? A line aligner can be better. Are you using a supple hair? A stiff hair can prevent the hook being taken in cleanly. These are just some of the possibilities. And the most important, do you have confidence in the hook? I nearly always use Carp-r-us Nailers, Centurions or Longshank Nailers, the reason being I know they work for me.

My view is that by the time the rig material has been felt, the hook should be embedded in the bottom lip. Try feeling the difference between braid and fluoro and mono over your own lip. I can't feel braid as I can Fluoro/mono.

Good reason for that. I've already put a picture in another thread of my basic bottom bait rig. Loads of threads on rigs and what people use.

Fluorocarbons because of their refractive index should not be able to be seen in the water. I've been using the Carp-r-Us fluorocarbon for hooklengths this year and found it very difficult to see in the margins.

The same one as the one I use in summer.

Try to fish as simply as possible. A simple knotless knotted hook to mono or braid will catch. I fish simply, I haven't changed my rigs for 5years, the only thing you need to change are the hairlength or the length of the hooklink in most cases. And I do catch a few fish. lol Have a look at this thread as there is a pic of 2 of my rigs on there: http://www.carp.com/forum/t13935/s.html

I have found that a Trilobe Lead in 1.5 - 2oz can actually behave like a lot heavier lead as it rests on the flat side. Also because of its shape, if fishing over heavy silt it doesn't dive in so deeply. They can be a bit of a sod to cast though, because their shape means they tend to go a little awry at times, especially in a strong wind. The fluorocarbon leader offers less resistance than a Monofilament mainline and also pins it down against the lake bed as fluoro is heavier than mono. A leader, a length of (stronger) line used for the purpose of preventing crack-offs, rubbing against snags or to sink the last few metres of line behind the lead.

I, me personally have found with a Running Lead fish lines as slack as possible. If you are fishing over silt try to find out what weight lead just sinks into it, you can then get away with a lighter lead than normal. With Semi Fixed Rigs you fish a tight line to increase the Bolt effect, but if a fish just mouthes the bait and gets away with it, you may get no indication whatsoever, yet a Running Lead will give a bleep or other indication. As for Rigs also have a look at Complicated Rigs, we had many thoughts on Leads, Rigs, and hooking arrangements.

Gently push a needle through the into the leadcore about a 2cms from the end and burn the end to stop fraying. Then pull your mainline down through the leadcore and needle knot it. You then have a small knot that rig components can pass over in the event of a break.

Have a look at the threads covering fixed vs running leads on the forum. I prefer Heavy running leads, don't often use Inlines at the moment, although with a semi Fixed Inline you can get great indication of a take. I'm not too keen on Helicopter rigs as improperly set up they can be a death rig.

I don't worry about hooksize to baitsize. I use size 8's for the majority of my fishing. In terms of hooks I use Nailers, Centurions from Carp-R-Us and Owner Flb's for the bottom baits. All are short slightly curved shank hooks. For Pop-ups I prefer a longer straighter shank, like the B175 or Drennan Super Specialist, although I do like the curved shank of the Longshank Nailers at times if I'm worried about ejection. There is much printed about different hooks by different anglers, but I'd find out what works best for you.

It sounds good as a Running Rig. The things I would do if possible is to: A) have a flat sided Lead, to grip the lake bed better if possible. B) use a larger lead to hold down to the lake bed. Have a look at the threads Running vs Fixed Leads, there are plenty of thoughts on them that may cover your queries

Sorry mate, don't know if I was registered member back then:)

Hi Joe, Thats something else we agree on. I do use a long straight shank hook for most of my Pop-up rigs. I find that they get a better hook hold on most occasions, normally right in the middle of the bottom lip.

Hi Mate Welcome to the forum. On my pop-up rigs I tie a sliding loop on the hair. Just use a grinner or Uni knot and don't tighten it all the way down. Into the loop formed I put the Pop-up and then tighten down to the bait. Knotless Knot the Hook on and you have a simple, easy pop-up rig. Just attach putty or other counterweight at height you require and away you go.

I used to live in Norwich and fished the Wensum and the Yare. The Broads themselves don't really start until you get to Surlingham on the Yare. There are some large Carp in the Yare, but locating them is a real nightmare, the biggest I have heard landed was a Mirror of 35lb from Thorpe. They are all along the River though, from the junction with the Wensum, all the way down through Thorpe, Postwich Woods End and down New Mills Yard on the Wensum is a possible, but getting into there you need a boat. For Carp try further upriver, by Dolphin Bridge and up behind the Anglian Water Station, I know for a fact that there are some big Carp along there that escaped from the fish farm at Hellesdon.

Most of my rigs are knotless knotted with a line aligner. Its easy, simple and catches fish.

Plenty of threads on here on Mainline if you have a search. I use Daiwa Sensor in 15lb in Summer and 12lb in winter. Never had a problem with it, but see what other people say as well

I use mostly size 8 Carp-r-Us Nailers and Centurions for the majority of my fishing. I fish 18 or 14mm Boilies with them quite comfortably. One thing I will say is I worry more about Lead size to hook size than I do with Hook size and Boilie size. Try picking up a size 4 hook with a 1oz Lead on the end of your finger. Then try again with the size 8 hook and a 3oz lead , it should bring tears to your eyes. That just demonstrates the efficiency of your hooking arrangement.

Solar or Kryston Heavy Metal Putty. Tie a stopknot on the hooklength at the depth you want to fish above the deck and mould putty around it. If you use Kryston coated braids and fish with the hookend stripped it will attach to the little bit that is the remainder of where you stripped it.

I normally use the Knotless Knot and leave a loop with ring free running around it. There are a couple of ways of tying the D-Rig, although If the ring is running up and down the actual hook shank it can't be called a D-rig? It can be used for bottom baits, pop-ups, snowman rigs and Stack rigs I attach the bait to the ring with a length of Hair Braid or 4lb Nylon. With pop-ups, stack and snowman presentations you can either fish tight to the ring or have some play between the bait and the ring. With botton baits I have a small amount of play between bait and ring. Must admit I've never used it with Maggot rigs though.