salokcinnodrog

I have found that a Trilobe Lead in 1.5 - 2oz can actually behave like a lot heavier lead as it rests on the flat side. Also because of its shape, if fishing over heavy silt it doesn't dive in so deeply. They can be a bit of a sod to cast though, because their shape means they tend to go a little awry at times, especially in a strong wind. The fluorocarbon leader offers less resistance than a Monofilament mainline and also pins it down against the lake bed as fluoro is heavier than mono. A leader, a length of (stronger) line used for the purpose of preventing crack-offs, rubbing against snags or to sink the last few metres of line behind the lead.

I, me personally have found with a Running Lead fish lines as slack as possible. If you are fishing over silt try to find out what weight lead just sinks into it, you can then get away with a lighter lead than normal. With Semi Fixed Rigs you fish a tight line to increase the Bolt effect, but if a fish just mouthes the bait and gets away with it, you may get no indication whatsoever, yet a Running Lead will give a bleep or other indication. As for Rigs also have a look at Complicated Rigs, we had many thoughts on Leads, Rigs, and hooking arrangements.

Gently push a needle through the into the leadcore about a 2cms from the end and burn the end to stop fraying. Then pull your mainline down through the leadcore and needle knot it. You then have a small knot that rig components can pass over in the event of a break.

Have a look at the threads covering fixed vs running leads on the forum. I prefer Heavy running leads, don't often use Inlines at the moment, although with a semi Fixed Inline you can get great indication of a take. I'm not too keen on Helicopter rigs as improperly set up they can be a death rig.

I don't worry about hooksize to baitsize. I use size 8's for the majority of my fishing. In terms of hooks I use Nailers, Centurions from Carp-R-Us and Owner Flb's for the bottom baits. All are short slightly curved shank hooks. For Pop-ups I prefer a longer straighter shank, like the B175 or Drennan Super Specialist, although I do like the curved shank of the Longshank Nailers at times if I'm worried about ejection. There is much printed about different hooks by different anglers, but I'd find out what works best for you.

It sounds good as a Running Rig. The things I would do if possible is to: A) have a flat sided Lead, to grip the lake bed better if possible. B) use a larger lead to hold down to the lake bed. Have a look at the threads Running vs Fixed Leads, there are plenty of thoughts on them that may cover your queries

Sorry mate, don't know if I was registered member back then:)

Hi Joe, Thats something else we agree on. I do use a long straight shank hook for most of my Pop-up rigs. I find that they get a better hook hold on most occasions, normally right in the middle of the bottom lip.

Hi Mate Welcome to the forum. On my pop-up rigs I tie a sliding loop on the hair. Just use a grinner or Uni knot and don't tighten it all the way down. Into the loop formed I put the Pop-up and then tighten down to the bait. Knotless Knot the Hook on and you have a simple, easy pop-up rig. Just attach putty or other counterweight at height you require and away you go.

I used to live in Norwich and fished the Wensum and the Yare. The Broads themselves don't really start until you get to Surlingham on the Yare. There are some large Carp in the Yare, but locating them is a real nightmare, the biggest I have heard landed was a Mirror of 35lb from Thorpe. They are all along the River though, from the junction with the Wensum, all the way down through Thorpe, Postwich Woods End and down New Mills Yard on the Wensum is a possible, but getting into there you need a boat. For Carp try further upriver, by Dolphin Bridge and up behind the Anglian Water Station, I know for a fact that there are some big Carp along there that escaped from the fish farm at Hellesdon.

Most of my rigs are knotless knotted with a line aligner. Its easy, simple and catches fish.

Plenty of threads on here on Mainline if you have a search. I use Daiwa Sensor in 15lb in Summer and 12lb in winter. Never had a problem with it, but see what other people say as well

I use mostly size 8 Carp-r-Us Nailers and Centurions for the majority of my fishing. I fish 18 or 14mm Boilies with them quite comfortably. One thing I will say is I worry more about Lead size to hook size than I do with Hook size and Boilie size. Try picking up a size 4 hook with a 1oz Lead on the end of your finger. Then try again with the size 8 hook and a 3oz lead , it should bring tears to your eyes. That just demonstrates the efficiency of your hooking arrangement.

Solar or Kryston Heavy Metal Putty. Tie a stopknot on the hooklength at the depth you want to fish above the deck and mould putty around it. If you use Kryston coated braids and fish with the hookend stripped it will attach to the little bit that is the remainder of where you stripped it.

I normally use the Knotless Knot and leave a loop with ring free running around it. There are a couple of ways of tying the D-Rig, although If the ring is running up and down the actual hook shank it can't be called a D-rig? It can be used for bottom baits, pop-ups, snowman rigs and Stack rigs I attach the bait to the ring with a length of Hair Braid or 4lb Nylon. With pop-ups, stack and snowman presentations you can either fish tight to the ring or have some play between the bait and the ring. With botton baits I have a small amount of play between bait and ring. Must admit I've never used it with Maggot rigs though.

I'm a Big Fan of either Amnesia or Drennan Greased Weasel. I have found that Amnesia can be a bit stiff at times when its cold, so often switch to 40lb Grey Greased Weasel. This is soft and supple at all temperatures. I can't use tapered Leaders I have a tendency to Crack off for some reason. With Nylon Shockleaders you need to allow 10lbs for every ounce of Lead you are using, with Braid because of the Lack of stretch you NEED to DOUBLE this, so 20 for every ounce of Lead. Also with Braided Leaders make sure you wear a finger stall.

No problems mate. I've got it tapped, I tie up fresh Rigs as I'm boiling the Kettle for coffee. The shrink tube on the hooks gets Shrunk in the mug as I pour the Boiling water in;) :D Another Lazy way in my fishing Life

Basically they are shortened Hooklinks. Imagine a Hooklength divided into 2 like a combi link with a swivel joined. One end being the Boom and the other the Link. Linklets are the short bit that the Hook is attached to. Think that's the best way to descibe them.

I fish with simple rigs, I don't want to fiddle about with Rig Rings or tiny pieces of silicon when I'm fishing. I extend the Shrink Tubing from my Line Aligner, so that the hair leaves the hook at the back of the Shank, directly opposite the point of the hook.. If the hair leaves at the bend of the hook and is ejected, then the hook can swing round and leave the Carp's mouth without getting a hold. Therefore down the back of the shank, whichever way the hook goes in the hook stands a good chance of pricking the fish in the lip. Diagram enclosed, both rigs are made with Super Mantis on Carp-R-us Centurions Size6 (I think) and are 15cm long. You can see where I've stripped the outer coating to.

Cos I don't fish near anyone else and they can't find me.

It pins your line tight to the bottom of the Lake if you use slack Lines and Running Leads. If you have a spliced loop at the hooklength end, you can change your rigs in seconds. Very handy if you are the type of person who changes hook after every fish.

Kryston Coated Braids. I find them more abrasion resistant than Fluoro, less chance of a sudden PING as they rub against a snag. The coating means I can fish with either a soft braid or a stiffer rig. I have used Fluoro's against the braid and for some reason with the same length rigs found I was getting more Hookpulls

Born in Essex, now living back in Suffolk, after a spell teaching the Norfolk lads how to fish Multiple baits and to stalk fish effectively. :D I'm a student of life, with a Laid back attitude who is always experimenting while fishing just to prove a point. Taverham Mills used to respond well to 8mm Cubed Stack Rigs with a rough cut piece of Cork as the lift. Up to 5 Boilies Cubes on the hair and the fish would wolf them down, without even trying to reject them.

Nope. Salokcin (1st Name) Nodrog (Surname) Now spell them the other way round

It depends on the fish you are after and trying to achieve. Say the fish are used to pulling for resistance from a 2oz Lead, you can either go heavier or lighter to disorientate them. Light Leads are perfect for when you are trying to sneak your rigs into place without too much disturbance, but try to use them as Semi-Fixed as they are too light for Running Leads to get an effect (my thoughts). Heavy Leads are great for Increasing the Bolt effect and making the hook get a purchase in Semi-Fixed mode. Try picking up a size 6 attached to a 1.5oz lead with your finger, you may manage it, but try the same again with a 2.5 or 3oz lead and it would probably bring tears to your eyes. I use 3oz Leads for the majority of my Fishing, but use Running Leads with slack Lines. The Lead doesn't move on the take, so I get good instant indication. Have a look at the Threads: Complicated Rigs and Running Vs Fixed for more information.