salokcinnodrog

The big "bundle" of PVA splodge where it is all tied up can take a lot longer to dissolve than the main bag. Knots also take a lot longer. I very rarely use PVA Tape or string to tie a bag off, I put hook and hooklink inside, kept from tangling by the Pellets/boilie crumb etc, then the lead, top it off with more filler, twist the top shut and then get a wet finger and totally slide and twist. I know that I will get a Splurge where it takes longer to dissolve, but I have checked the dissolve of the bags previously, and know that the main bag has dissolved.

You might be right in some cases but far from all. Before I even try to fish a lake I try to get a detailed underwater substrate report, I then do a lot of leading with a 4oz-pear lead and 60 lb braid. By tying the two together I get a good idea of how the bigger carp will feed. That then tells me what type of rig I should be using. What a lot of people cannot get into their heads is a lot of different rig work in exactly the same way mechanically. What you are trying to do is find the method of feeding, then you choose one of the rigs that will present the bait in a fashion that will work mechanically on that feeding fish. The reason so many rigs have been invented is that people will always try and make a rig that will hook better/quicker than any other in the same situation. The person who sticks to one rig alone is the person denying themselves of valuable fish. Earlier this year I fished an estate lake. I fished running leads and the hook was knotless knotted with an aggressive hair on normal nylon line with bottom baits. I was catching fish like there was no tomorrow and there was no reason to change. But these were nave fish in turbid water. The following week I was on quite different water, an old very large gravel pit with a very low stock. If I had fished the same as the previous week I think I would have caught in the end by luck, but I do not think I would have caught what I did. I fished running leads again but the rig consisted of the much-maligned 360o rig attached to flouro and critically balanced snowmen. If you saw how the fish were hooked you would not have any doubts; to say the hooks were in is an understatement. There is another side to this. The selfish person inside of me says the less people think about these things and stick to their guns and use simple rigs, the better it is for the like of me. Frank I love it when I can follow Frank's posts with such an observation and him quoting and giving such a reply to a very well thought out query as yours DW, For years my first thought has always been to keep it as simple as possible when moving onto a new water, on the Reservoir I did use Knotless knotted or line aligned rigs to coated braid with the exception of snowman baits when I preferred a D-rig (don't know, don't ask. I actually queried my thinking on the "Complicated rigs" thread that is still available in Advanced Carp Fishing section), however like Frank I work out the Lakebed to suit what rigs I use for what I want to achieve. When I moved onto the Hertfordshire syndicate I figured that the lake was going to be more pressured than my standard waters and that I wanted to use Double baits with a Snowman. I had not been able to see any Carp feeding on a previous visit. I had also figured that I needed a rig that could behave similarly on clay and gravel. This pressure I figured would mean that basic rigs while giving the potential to work if the feeding situation was right, would be regularly used. As a result I wanted something that the Carp had NOT seen, or unlikely to have seen before or for a long time, this rig turned out to be very effective, but other rigs would probably or maybe possibly have produced the same result if put in the right place. In Franks post the last line makes me chuckle as in the past I have said "keep it simple", but I match my hooklink material to the lakebed to be as camouflaged as possible. It would make many anglers cringe when they see the effects I go to camouflage Lead, hooklink etc

I think a lot of people forget that Rigs tend to be designed for the Fish in a particular water (Withy Pool Rig, Bent Hook rig (I won't advocate that definitely), Savay Looney Rig etc), and as such the rig needs to be set for how particular fish behave. Yet across various waters there are similarities, and there is also "Rig Fashion" as published by the magazines. As I said in my previous post, the majority of anglers are currently using whatever is the Magazines latest wonder presentation, not really thinking about their fishing and how the carp in their water behave. Go onto an "overstocked commercial" and just about any rig put in the right place with the right feed situation will produce, that can be a standard knotless knotted rig. The fish need to feed, they need to take an anglers baits and so the rig is just there as a risk. Yet on highly pressured Big Fish waters, where the BIG Carp are more wary then the rigs will need to be adapted to produce and be something that the Carp are not expecting. It is there that Rig development comes from, but, always that but, the anglers who catch those Big Fish get their name in lights, or the press, and that rig that they have adapted or developed is the new or regurgitated fashion. Also most anglers who fish waters do not move on in the logical extension to the standard. From the standard hair the basic adaption was by Hutchy to an Extending hair or Roger Smiths D-rig, both very successful, yet I bet a vast number of anglers have just jumped past these adaptations to the current wonder rig.

Believe it or not I don't work on Rig Mechanics. For the majority of my Carp fishing since 1994 I have used pretty basic Line aligners or Knotless knotted rigs, although depending on situation I have used D-rigs or my version of the revolving/sliding hair rig. I also know that the over the "Palm" and "over the thumb" tests can show that a hook will flip in to the fishes mouth, yet in reality it doesn't always do that. In most cases the only thing we need to change are the rig length or the hair length, yet I'm willing to bet that very few people actually look into the fishes mouth to see exactly where the Hook has hit home (unless they've watched Danny Fairbrass DVD's ) Nowadays the fashion is for Branded rigs and hooks, the Curve/Kurve, Longshank, Wide Gape etc, yet people do not think about the actual tying or even the hooklink material, all of which can make a hook behave differently depending on the fish, or even what the lakebed is made up of. In most cases most of the anglers who are confusing themselves seeing what they do in the articles would be far better off with that Drennan Super Specialist and putting that simple rig in the right place rather than worrying about the rig as opposed to its location

Go to the Search facility at the top of the page, type in Hertfordshire and then specify "Uk Where to fish section" and also click "search all terms". There is a whole thread devoted to various Day Ticket waters in Hertfordshire. For syndicates and clubs I know for a fact that there is very little on here. In fact from the area you have specified I also know that just by driving/cycling around you will find absolutely loads of waters

Even my Loop knots get attached to a swivel. If you use a swivel and want to use a loop knot, then the knot in the Kryston packaging works with minimal loss of strength. Tie, but don't pull tight, an overhand knot where you want the loop to end, put swivel or link on, with tag end go down through the overhand knot and then go 4 times round the main piece of line and then back up through the overhand loop. Lubricate knot and gradually pull both ends to tighten. Never had one of them give way

I wouldn't say the Snowman is a rig, more of a presentation. You can adapt a number of rigs to become Snowman style, simply by using a longer than than you would for a single bait. D-rig, Sliding/Revolving hair, or even basic knotless knotted can all be adapted to Snowman baits. As for where to use it, anywhere you feel confident in its abilities and your approach

There are a couple, but very difficult to get into. Very closed Syndicates. SWP is the best bet. I live in Suffolk and travel away for my fishing!

I use a loop knot attached to the swivel with Amnesia and Combi rigs, and a Uni knot for Braid and coated braids. It is the movement issue that I figure on. A stiffer hooklink will not move as much as a more supple hooklink, so to allow that extra movement and confidence I work out what I need to achieve, that includes checking what sort of material I need for the hooklink.

A number of manufacturers do Hair braid, or use whipping thread (very strong for the same thickness as cotton). To the hooklink, tie the hair material (my favoured Uni knot ), and then slide it down the front of the hooklink to the top of the knot and tighten and then through the eye from the front, point side to the back. You can then fix your hair loop and a gentle overhand knot will hold it to the shank. If you are Silicon or Shrink tube covering the hook then it looks even tidier

From the current rules I gather that on Slipe Lane is baiting up with Stringers and Bags only! I know what I've been told in regard to fish stocks and weights of fish, weed and features, but is there any more up to date information on Slipe Lane around at all?

WOW, a whole days wait! It can take a couple of days (or up to a week) for people to see a thread and reply on that subject You won't find much on going swims as due to the happenings at the lakes there are as yet no real hot swims. (Last year fish were moved from lake to lake as the Trout lake was closed for Trout fishing and Trout removed. Carp and other coarse fish then moved and stocked into the other lakes). The only way to find out is to get yourself down there and fish and learn as you go. The only advice that I can offer you regarding bait is that my mate who fished it was getting some of his boilies from me, and I've been on Smokey Mackeral for a couple of years. When he bought his own (and also for another mate) they used B&F co and bought what they were used to. I'm not sure what his groundbait and spod mix was made up off, but I know that again they used B&F. So that may be worth a start and see if they can offer any help

It has been used on Drayton Reservoir as a viable catching method, regular baiting, catapulting boilies, groundbait over the float. Mostly by the Match anglers who used to fish there. Add some floating bits into your groundbait, so you have a groundbait that sinks and then some of the particles float up along with some groundbait that breaks up and go down you create an area that has particles (as in pieces) constantly in the area.

You dont tend to find to many mains hook ups on the bank though I like useing the kettle for shrink tube, esp when useing coated braids, never had a problem as long as you take care, and it also give's you the chance to run the coated braid through the steam aswell, which when held under tension it will cool prefectly straight, ensureing that rig will fall away from our lead You know my rig tubs, full of rigs tied at home I very rarely tie a rig on the bank. It is not just Shrink Tube either that can be used to "lengthen" the shank, certain silicon or other tubing can be used for the same effect, and also reduces to a certain extent that knot movement that WickieShaun was talking about.

Regarding the Line aligner vs Shrink Tubing vs Knotless Knot: By adding a length of shrink tubing almost any pattern of hook can be improved by lengthening the shank. A standard piece of Shrink tubing straight over the eye, or Knotless knot does not always cause the hook to flip in and hook properly, IT DOES depend on the pattern of the hook in some cases (or in my opinion it does ), hence the preference for a line aligner by some. Who says you need to use a Kettle to get your Shrink tubing right? Use a Hair dryer then when in shape drop in COLD water to hold the shape Saying that I've never found a braided hooklink to get damaged over the spout of the kettle as it boils

In most cases about the only thing you need as a rig, is a basic knotless knotted or line aligned hook and hair, (some hook patterns DO NOT flip in with a knotless knot) rig that you can tie. Then if you have problems with hooking, or not or hookpulls you can change and adapt by playing with the hair or rig length. Also don't forget that how you feed or bait up and put in free offerings may have some effect on a rig behaviour. That is down to YOU to develop your own style. Find a suitable hooklink material for you and the lakebed (!), but remember that you will have to possibily change this hooklink material depending on what you fish over as the various areas or lake you fish changes. Those links above should help you immensely, but remember, MOST rigs are only confusing, because WE make them so. We fish the same every time, bait up same, cast the same, to the same features. When the fish get wary of that feeding situation, that area, that same lead set-up, then we change the rig, its the rig fault, not our own. I've used this rig pretty much from 1994 to now, although I've used a fresh hook a few times and a fresh piece of braid a couple more, its the same rig Why change what works? I'm comfortable with it, as are the fish in MOST waters Rigs are only as confusing as you allow them to be.

You mean this one ? I quite liked the look of it. just a 360 isn't it ? good rig but again in the right situation have fun and keep up the tying, it's good to experiment now and then and the above rig really isn't that tricky to tie like them all a couple of goes and you soon will pick it up. Ye thats the one lol whats the point tho i mean how will this catch me a carp more than say a normal knotless knot rig set up? ppl say its for the right situation but they dont say what these situations are. Can u help? Look at your fishing, FORGET the rigs published in many of the magazines, and consider are you catching? where are you hooking the fish? are you getting hookpulls? and how does the hooklink behave in the water or on the lakebed? How are the fish feeding? Have a read of these: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=9536 http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=37416 http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=41886

http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=41751&highlight=tubing

What exactly do you want I'm sorry to sound offish but I just don't get it, sorry. What has your age got to do with it? 16 is old enough to join Paxmans or CAPS. You actually want to pay £15 a night for some dirty rubbish ridden lake where the fish are all in bad condition rather than join a club... To fish 365 days will cost you £5475 on day ticket or £45 for Paxmans.... now let me think which I'd prefer...... Ok, next suggestion, try the little pond behind Weeley caravan site, they were brought up on chips & left overs from the cafe for years so please don't ask me about bait Or fish Holland Brook for free And you ask about Ardleigh Reservoir ( http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=41888 ), which although they do Day Tickets, for serious Carp Fishing you will likely need to do nights, and the cost of a season ticket is close on £200 for a year. CAPS or Paxmans is a lot better than a water that has limited stocks in a Hellhole, which a number of the Day tickets waters are in that area. 30 minutes from Manningtree, hmmm! look up Suffolk Waters. I know for a fact that if you are so insistent on Day Tickets then a number near to Ipswich are in that time limit. If not then I'll give you the fun of Essex Waters: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=38888&highlight=essex http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=24979&highlight=essex

You don't need to waste money on anti tangle booms A piece of silicon tube, or even a Tail Rubber slid over the hooklink swivel will do the same job , although Solar do (sorry, can't bring myself to recommend ESP gear now, not since they are making ready tied Death Rigs )

That will usually be the hooklink falling around the lead as it drops through the water then As mentioned use dissolving foam, PVA bags or mesh, or stringers, or go to kryston superstiff, or feather the cast. All of those methods reduce or prevent tangles

Probably a couple of ways http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=22185 http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=37416 From the bottom link I remember Andy Little explaining that he found it easier to make a continuation from the hook knot and down the shank, (can be done with the knotless knot or any knot to include a hair material inside the knot barrel) held in place with a couple of pieces of silicone, but you know about that one, cos I remember your Silicon splitting Try getting a length of mono/or hair material, roughly double the length you want as a hair. Double Overhand knot the 2 ends together, you then have a loop at the other end. Put loop alongside hook bend, then the knotted piece put over hook bend and down through the loop. Put bait in loop and then put stop in. (Does that make sense?). It is a double thickness hair, but the tight loop doesn't slip far Or get your hair material, tie loop in end for bait stop, then attach to hook with a grinner or blood knot on the bend.

You could have pointed out the typo though

Just about a perfect explanation I'm not totally sure about 1.5 times as long as the hooklink, I usually just use a couple of centimetres longer than the rig. In most cases you don't need tubing at all. By the use of feathering the cast, using a Mono or Fluorocarbon hooklink, PVA bags/mesh/or stringers tangles can be pretty much eliminated, even with braided hooklinks (probably why tubing has been advocated to reduce tangles as braid is very supple). I know these are mentioned on other threads, so having a play with the search may be useful . Tubing in most cases is like putting a stick right across your dinner plate. Put you right off your meal A standard mainline is extremely unlikely to cut a fish, although a braid mainline is different. You don't fish tubing on a Surface fishing set-up, so why the need on a bottom bait.? The most camouflaged tubing is more obvious than an extremely fine (in relation) line. Consider your mainline is (approx) 0.35-0.40mm, and the finest tubing is 0.75mm. Which is going to be easiest to see? Add a tight line into that (with or without tubing) and it is going to be more obvious for the Carp to see. Fish a tight line at short range (under say 40metres) with tubing and you are likely to be holding it up off the bottom of the lake. The line running "straight" from rod tip to end tackle. In nature very few items are "tight" or straight. The best way to camouflage a line (in my view) is to fish it as slack as possible with a Running Lead, the line running along the lake bed, drooping straight down from the rod tip. Despite what many think, the indication is more instant than with a tight line and Semi-Fixed Lead, the lead does not need to be moved to get an indication at the rod (It does with a Semi-fixed set-up, and that includes Silt/Helicopter rigs). Also have a search for Running vs Semi-Fixed Leads, and Slack lines vs Tight lines There is a time when I worry about using tubing and it being longer than a couple of centimetres more than the rig; that is when I'm using tubing as a "abrasion resistor" and using it to protect the line from snags etc which may cut through uncovered mainline. Simplest set-up is probably knotless knotted hook to hooklink with a swivel joining to mainline. On the mainline coming back from the swivel a rubber bead or 2 to protect the knot and stop run ring sliding down hooklink, a Run Ring with a lead attached. Sorry if that is long winded, but I've tried to be as comprehensive as possible, to be understood

Try these: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=22185 http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=37603 While I know that Spudder has recommended the Korda Running set-up, there are other manufacturers (and some are definitely better!) Solar, Fox, ESP etc. Go through, choose the one that suits YOU, not which is advertised or plugged, as the truth is out there and it is not always in the magazines