beanz

iv never used "braid scissors" iv just used sharp scissors, held them open and pulled the braid back into them, always a nice clean cut.... at a fraction of the price!!

id only cast that out after i'd done a few tests at home. id worry that the line could cut through the plastic(if line passes over tubing).preferably id just get some ring swivels.

im not 100% sure , but they both(nash/korda) (or just one of them)only drop the lead when you tighten down to the fish and the hook link hits the clip.... i read this since posting but cant remember where any way , if true then i guess the lead would stay on if a fish picked up a cracked off rig, what d'you think??? very small chance i guess the fish would swim towards the lead with the force needed to bump the release mechanism.....not sure as iv not held one in my hand to have a play... but it could actually be safer than pva held leads, weak links ect.....so maybe step forward

i totally agree with you willi. nash are releasing a similar item,though it looks less stream lined. and both are being branded as "safe" ...well it can only be safe if the lines connected to rod and reel, and then yeah i guess loosing the lead makes things slightly safer when playing a fish in and around snags... but its like they ignore the fact that crack offs and breakages happen occasionally.

alrite malc. nice catches... that cat wasnt from the same lake as the carp was it??? im sure i see a few last year, a baby about 12" long and a tail of a 20+ disappearing along the margin on the tramp bank.. but no ones believes me as they hadnt seen any, ...the polish guy showed me a pic of a cat but couldnt understand where he said it came from.

iv use quick change swivels( like in link)for years, not on lead clips though, and never ever had a link slip off, iv used them with anti tangle sleeves or just a few mm of silicon tube , like i said..never had a problem apart from in the middle of the night and trying to get braided loops on i have had links slip out of the key hole shaped ones on a few occasions , maybe something to do with me?? i wasnt sure, but it dented my confidence.

im a running rig user for nearly 99%,occasionally switching to heli set ups if i need more distance. fluoro, line clips,heavy bobbins all help to drive the hook in further but thats all IMO, it just further, i think the force the carp blows the rig out is where the 'hold ' takes place...no matter what lead set you use this always happen before the lead comes in to play....take the chod...slack line,sliding freely between, say 3foot gap on top/bottom bead, if the ejecting of the rig didnt set the hook then how did chod become such a great popular rig on all kinds of different waters??? surely the trickier waters were the carp sit there testing baits youd never get a full blown screaming run on the chod....so i conclude...its the ejection of the hook that plays a more important role that any lead.size or shape. which now leaves the most important bit, the hair, where this leaves the hook and the length will change the way the hook is ejected, bait shape/size means the hair length would need to suit. iv said it before, the KD imo worked ,not because of a turn under the hair but because the knotless was only a few turns,making the ejected bait pull at the eye, if you did a knotless knot up all the way up too or past the bend, on ejection i think it would lift the point clear of any potential hookings so yeah sharpy...sort ya hair out!!

two off the top of my head within distance, http://www.sibsonfisheries.co.uk/ and http://www.stanwicklakesfisheries.com/ stanwick is a bit more though you get 4 lakes for the price, is open all year, and ticket runs from date purchased for 12 months. which i dont think is the same with sibson, its starts/end in june.

you after a syndicate or would a season ticket be any good???

micro swivel or bait screw make the rig so much easier to tie, but i dont think either way effect the effectiveness of the rig...with the exception of weight!

Nige, Have you tried this rig although using a plain standard ring instead of the swivel? I understand that a swivel will give a little bit more weight to balance the pop-up, but I think that a rig ring will still give correct movement along the D-rig section ever since i see niges pic,iv used a swivel and melted the floss...it speeds up 'rigging up' no end, being able to hold the swivel with fat clumsy fingers to slide on the D or shank is so easy,unlike fiddling with a micro ring and needle...never lost a swivel doing this

i was just scrolling down thinking this needs a mention iv been trying to teach my nephew this year and he hasnt quite got the hang of this, every time i see him forget i tell to reel in and sure enough he's tangled

the bottom bead only comes into play when playing a fish,as when cast the hook link flys up and away from it and settles there. when playing a fish the hook link and lead are pull together, so it is possible to lose fish if the lead is bouncing is to close, so placing a 3inch or more length of catty elastic or silicon tubing between lead and bottom bead helps buffer that effect.also its possible to bash the fish with the lead... you can tie a stop knot on the leader or depending on the leader,tie a knot in the actual leader to stop the bead dropping to close to the lead.. but to long and its very possible to have the lead snag as it hangs down to far under the fish. so about 4-8 inches unless using a very short chod link then id lengthen by an extra inch or 2

it sounds like your missing the tension bars/pole. they are handy but not necessary. they are extras on some makes of bivvy. i had a pram hood that didnt have them and never found i needed them,even with the doors folded back. though saying that when facing a strong wind i had to make sure the front pegs were well in or it will fold back down around you

in theory this is a good way to dump the leader when using a leadclip. but in reality it increases the snagging points...mainline/leader knot has to pass through the tail rubber( which works fine testing it at home using our hands) but a bit of weed round the knot or small twig wrapped in the line, now the fish has a big loop to drag around and find a snag and if using leadcore,then just a kink may be enough to jammed at the tail rubber its not as safe as its made out to be. the youtube vid a few years back when i first see this was a perfect example of how you need hands to make it part

the is a myth, probably originating from lead clips designers, that the lead snags fish. well the mainline will still snag around submerged branches and other bottom debris...causing any set up to be a risk. lead clips only lose the lead when pulled away from you, so if your lead is wedge in the fork of a sunken tree and you have to pull for a break....well hopefully your not using fake baits the is no 100% safe rig they all have risks, whether tied by a 'carp rig safety expert' or someone who's going to kill it to eat. heli,bolt and running are all connected to 300yds of line.

so is shivering a result of soap dodging????

jules..that little pool is available to night fish...it involves a separate ticket and pre booking....and a long drive

i use running for nearly all my carping,with a slackish line, i havent had a twitchy take ever that i can recall,(from carp..plenty of bream)all my takes are screamers. weed i like inline as it more stream lined and collect less. for extra distance i will use heli set ups( but it rare )or if needing a leader. and i dont use bolt set ups..just a personal thing, as iv never felt i needed to use the lead to hook'em. i dont think the lead set up plays a big part unlike location and bait for most situations.

a bag will add weight , so your balanced rig wouldnt fall as you want,but will still have the effect of flying up more freely when taken. the fake bait should mean if the crays turn up your still angling, i say should cause you never know with hemp they can become preoccupied on it so like i said...if their mouth is down on the bottom you dont want your bait higher. and as for the KD ,, im not the guy to ask i believe the way its tied has nothing thing to do with it hooking potential and its the fact that the hair when blown pulls at the eye and not bend. a standard knotless knot with 3-4 turns is exactly the same in my mind

any pop up rig fished over a tight baited spot runs the risk of foul hooking. when feeding on hemp the carp dont have to move far to keep feeding and they can keep their head down, where a spread of boilies over a large area gets them moving and also dropping the head down for each individual bait. in your situation,where i could see the bottom i would use a bottom bait with a small mesh/bag just to protect the hook. once the fish have cleared the weed id be happy to just flick out the hook bare.or if i didnt want any free offerings id balance the bait to slowly fall and settle on the weed.

are you not using a top bead then???

im unsure what you mean by "if the fish picks up the bait and swims away from me the weight of the lead will have no hooking affect at all" as it would be in the silt, so even a light lead will have a bolt effect.

ready mades are good for a quick cheap fix,but long term you risk missing chances because the individual small 1%s that all add become second to the convenience of the old ready tied you have. where length of rig or hair could play a great part in hook ups or even how sharp the hook is,,out the packet sharp isnt sharper enough for many anglers but when you only have a few readies and no way on the bank to replace the patterns you feel needed, your maybe using a inferior rigs and who wants that playing with there confidence???? lardy- where d'you shop it'd be a tenner at least for a coated braid in my local tackle shop