salokcinnodrog

looks to me like SAFE no longer means safe, its now just synonymous with 'more money in the bank'
 would be interesting to get danny and kevins take on the SAFETY aspect tho.

Theres a great sticky in this section on safe lead set ups and there is also a couple of good threads , both current and in the former hot topic sections too with pics of members' lead set ups , components and sometimes their reasons for using them.
What with quite a few newish members getting involved recently as well i thought the subject worthy of a thread of its own , similar to bez's recent thread "which rig are you currently using " or something like that
 
So , i'm inviting everyone to post pics of their current lead set ups .
Lets see what you got boys ....
I'll post mine this evening when small child is not clambering all over me :)

It is the hookpulls  that to me makes me think the hair was too short, so lengthening it you have gotten them to take a bit more confidently. Again, on the extreme edge of the mouth, I would possibly add a little bit more length until hooks were firmly embedded centre of bottom lip.
 
The other way possibly to get better hookholds could actually be to feed a bit more, so the fish are feeding a bit more confidently as well.
 
I have always considered in my mind that confident feeding fish don't necessarily inspect, or suck and blow hookbaits as much as those that are not feeding comfortably, so increasing your groundbait (particles groundbait or whatever background feed), may lead them to be more confident. If they really do start feeding comfortably though, and get pre-occupied, then shortening the hair may be the answer. 
 
I know, blooming circles again!  
 
Beanz makes a fair point in hook and hair position, and I think I have mentioned it in the past? Remember the pic:

 
Where the hair leaves the hook; From thejust below the eye as KD, then the hook may well be going in point downwards, and as it is blown out, then automatically hooks the lip. From the eye itself, may be going in backwards, and be blown out, and from the bend of the hook, can be blown out backwards, so the point is still facing the throat, no chance of a hookhold. So my preference has been for the hair to leave the shank of the hook, opposite the barb/point of the hook.

well I now know exactly how big the pike I lost last week was!
 
I took my friend Colin for his first ever pike trip yesterday, and on his 2nd cast with a smelt on the float rod he landed a 9lb pike, a very tentative take, that the float merely twitched on. He wasn't sure about it, so I told him to hit it. A very scrappy pike then surfaced, and had taken the bait very confidently on the spot, and was for such a take, deeply hooked
 
About 3 hours later he flicked a ledgered smelt under the tree to the left and within 20minutes had another indication of 3 bleeps, which he hit quickly and played himself a decent pike to the landing net. As I lifted the net under it, I could only laugh and he couldn't work out why. When I lifted it onto the mat, there was around 6feet of my line that had some very large abrasion rubs across it, and my trace in the corner of its mouth, which I managed to remove easily, although his trace was very deep and in the stomach.
 
I immediately cut t he line from his rod, so that attached to the trace was just a foot length of line, and no rod hanging around. An over officious bailiff then started to make life very awkward. I have unhooked goodness knows how many deep pike, and always found that even with a big fish, a small pair of forceps I can free deep hooked fish by going in carefully through the gill rakers, someone gently pull the line/trace, and I can unhook the trebles with no damage. I had the bailiff telling me I should go in the front, with a pair of long noses, which with my head looking at what I was doing, my left hand holding the mouth open in the gill flaps the other side and astride the fish on the unhooking mat, and my mate gently holding the line to prevent it going back in as far as I was concerned was not an option. I also had him telling me to pull the fish backward and forward in the margins to flush it through!
 
I unhooked and sorted, weighed it and got a mat picture within 3 minutes, which with an extra trace in, I reckon is acceptable, and when I held it in the margins for release, she swam away strongly
 
I really feel for Colin as it was the fish of a lifetime, and his 2nd ever pike at 24lb, I could not get a decent picture as the bailiff was so panicky, and he wouldn't let Colin lift it for a pic.

Covert Mugga's. 'nuff said

Yes, you win one boilie stop.
 
Send a stamped addressed envelope and I'll send it to you

Do I win a prize for tightest forum member for not wanting to lose boilie stops?

Aldeby Hall Fruit Farm Lakes, Beccles
5 small Pits: Otter - Crossing Water - Long Water - Round Water - Bridge Water .
 
Good treelined woody mixed fishery with variety of stocks and carp to 28lb plus.
Depths between 2 and 8 feet, and the water is normally well coloured. Wooden Stagings in all swims which cater for Disabled Anglers
Tickets from:Paul Gibbs - 01502 678121
1 rod £6 2 rods £9 3 rods £12 8am to 8 am includes night.
The lakes can be found on the A143 about a mile on the way to Aldeby.
 
Barford Lakes Fishery, Barford
There are four lakes at the main Barford Lakes Complex (which includes the Training Lake). Barford Pleasure Lake, 35 pegs,
Top Lake, 15/16 swims, Training Lake, 7 swims and the Match only Match Lake. Depths Range from 6 to 15feet deep. Carp are the Main species up to 20lb, although other species are present. Some of the lakes and pegs are suitable for Disabled Anglers
Contact: Barford Lakes and Tackle Shop, Chapel Street, Barford, Norwich, Norfolk NR9 4BJ Tel: 01603 759624
Email: sarah@barfordlakes.co.uk
Route: From Norwich follow the A47 towards Dereham, then take the B1108 towards Watton, then follow the signs to Barford.
After entering Barford on the B1108 you will see a pub called The Cock Inn and there is a Fiat garage opposite. Take the road opposite the pub which is Cock Street. Continue to the end and turn right at the T-junction and carry on through the village for about a quarter of a mile. You will then notice that on the right hand side the road is lined with oak trees. Keep looking to the right and you will see our 300-yard gravel driveway, signed Barford Lakes.
 
Bawburgh Lake Norwich
This 12 acre Gravel Pit varies in depth between 2 and 18 feet, offering a variety of shallow plateaux and deep gullies. The Carp are well into 20lb mark, as well as other species.
This is a Members only water of the Norfolk Anglers Consultative Association.
Route: From Norwich take the Dereham Road towards Bowthorpe, and turn left at the Bowthorpe Roundabout. Turn Right at the Traffic lights and proceed to the mini roundabout, take the right turn down the narrow Bawburgh Road. Bawburgh Lake is on the right of the track.
 
 
Blickling Lake Blickling near Aylsham, North Norfolk.
Set in the grounds of Blickling Hall, owned by the National Trust. This open water of over 20 acres is shallow and weedy at the hall end. Depths vary from 6ft to 10ft at dam wall end.Mixed Fishery with Bream, Roach, Tench and Carp to Double Figures.
No night fishing.TICKETS:£3.50 on the bank.CONTACT:01263 734181
 
Booton Clay Pit, Booton
This triangular tree surrounded pit is about 4 acres. There are beds of reeds topping the shallow bars. Carp run to over 30lb
Contact: Cawston Angling Club
Route: From Norwich take the road to Reepham. Just before Reepham village take the road to Haveringland and Buxton.
The pit is on the left after about one and a half miles, well hidden by a hedge of Tall Trees.
 
Common Charity Lakes, Lenwade
Situated on Lenwade Common these Lakes are controlled by Great Witchingham Fuel Allotment Charity, and comprise 3 lakes between 2 and 5 acres. Depths vary betweem 5 and 15 feet and the water is usually very clear. There are other species as well as Carp to 20lb+.
Route: From Norwich take the A1067 Fakenham road into Lenwade and then take the first left after the Village Bakery and Butchers shop. This leads directly to the fishery and Car Park.
 
Cobbleacre Lake, Hevingham Norwich
This is a complex of 3 gravel and Claypits varying in size between 3 1/2 acres and 1/4 acre.
The Largest lake varies in depth from 4 to 12 feet with carp to over 25lb. The other 2 are more General Coarse fisheries.
Route: From Norwich take the B1149 Holt Roadpassing through Horsford. 3/4 of a mile past the Shorthorm Crossroads turn right alongside the woodyard down Brick Kiln Road. The entrance to the lakes is on the right past Baileys Barn
 
Costessey Pits No2 and 3, Costessey
Owned by Anglian Water, these 2 pits are known as the Ski Pit (No2), where Water Skiing takes place and the Carp Lake (No3).
No2 is approximately 15acres and has depths between 8 and 12 feet. The water is usually well coloured and has Carp to over 30lb as well as other species. Level swims are provided for Wheelchair anglers near the Main Car Park. Day and Season Tickets are available
from Anglian Water Office at Taverham Mills.
No3 covers 6 acres and averages over 10 feet deep. The swims are cut in woodland around the margins of the lake.
The Carp go to over 40lb. There is a Syndicate on this lake.
Contact for both waters: Anglian Water 01603 861014.
Route: From Norwich take the Dereham Road towards the Norfolk Showground. At the Roundhouse pub turn right into Longwater Lane.
At the end by the school turn left and then take the next right turn towards Taverham. The Lakes are then on the right.
 
Cranworth/Woodrising Water Meadows
This 2 acre man made lake has 2 islands and is shaped like a figure of eight. Depths vary from 2-10feet and the water is well coloured.
There is a prolific stock of Carp to over 20lbs. Crayfish are also present in the water. Caravanners and Camp site is also available.
Route: From Norwich take the B1108 Watton road to Hingham, just beyond the village look out on the right for the road to Shipden, follow the Cranworth signs and the lake is near to Jubilee farm on the right.
 
Felmingham Mill LAKES, Aylsham.
Three lakes, depths vary from 3 to 10 feet and contain good stocks of Roach, Tench, Crucian Carp and some double figure Carp to 15lb
Day Ticket £3.50 and OAP £2.00 Tel. 01263 735106
 
Northfield Lakes (formerly Holmans Pits), Southery
Two well established oval shaped Clay Pits of around 1 and 11/2 acres. Depths vary between 2 and 7 feet. Carp to over 20lb and other species.
Day Tickets. Contact Tel 01366 377551
Route: From Downham Market take the A10 towards Ely for around 5miles and then turn into Southery on the B1386. Entrance to the lakes is the second farm turning on the left
 
Home Lake, Aylsham
Natural spring fed lake, 30 well laid out swims, sheltered. Carp to 32 lb, high average size (20+).
 
Taswood Lakes
This venue is a collection of 5 lakes, Heron, Broadwing and Spring Lakes all contain some nice carp but Broadwing contains probably the largest of the carp including all the strains mirror's, common's and some great grass carp. All the lakes contain large grass carp so for anyone seeking a big grassie the perhaps is no better place to have a go than this venue
Route: From Norwich take the A140 to Newton Flotman, then the right turn to Flordon. After about a mile and a half take the left turn to Tasburgh, the lakes are on the left.
 
Taverham Mills Lake, Taverham
Controlled by Anglian Water This beautiful 20acre Lake is almost completely Tree lined, and has extensive Lily Beds. The depths range from 3 feet down to 15foot. As well as Tench and Bream to Double figure there are Carp to over 30lb. Tickets are available from the Fishery Lodge/ Tackle Shop on site. Facilities include Holiday Lodges, Tackle Shop and Toilet. There are both Season and Day Tickets available.
Contact: Anglian Water Tel 01603 861014. www.taverham-mill.com
Route: from Norwich take the A1067 Fakenham Road into Drayton, and turn left immediately after the Petrol Station. Follow this road
into Taverham until you reach the Crossroads. The Fishery is then on the left right next to the Prepatory School at the end of a long drive.
 
Thompson Water, near Merton, Norwich
This huge reed lined lake of over 30acres is for the most part between 2 and 5 feet deep, although there are holes to over 10 feet deep.
As well as Carp to over 20lbs there are other species.
Contact: Tel: 01953 883370
Route: From Norwich, take the B1108 Watton Road into Watton, then the B1110 road into Merton and through into Thompson Village.
Turn down Marlpit Lane on the rightand carry on down to the unmade Peddars way (Roman Road), and the lake is on the left.
 
University Broad Lake Norwich
This 10 acre Gravel Pit is the only large fishable stillwater actually inside the City Boundary of Norwich.
Depths range from 4 to 20 feet, with deep water around much of the margins. As well as Rudd, roach, Tench and Bream, there are Carp to over 20lb.
This Lake is controlled by the University of East Anglia, and is Members Only.
Contact: Mr. Paul Fountain, Finance Division, The Registry,University of East Anglia, Norwich, Norfolk, NR4 7TJ
http://www.uea.ac.uk/~e419/ueasaac/welcome.html
Route: Take the B1108 Watton Roadfrom the Centre of Norwich and then turn left into Bluebell road in Earlham Village.
The University and the Broad can be seen in the Yare valley on the right.
 
Waveney Valley Lakes Wortwell
This complex is probably the best stocked group of Carp Fisheries in East Anglia. Heartsmere, Yew Tree, Marsh Lake, and the Alphabetically named lakes. Depths range from 3 to 12 feet deep over the complex. Many of the Lakes contain Carp to over 30lb.
On site there are full facilities, Tackle shop, showers, toilets etc. There are Caravans to hire as well as Day Ticket Lakes.
Route: From Norwich take the A140. After Long Stratton take the left turn to Pulham Market, continue along this road, the B1134into Harleston, and then take the road into Wortwell village. The Lakes are well signposted and in the centre of Wortwell on the right.
 
Wensum Fisheries, Costessey
Four well established old gravel working lakes in the Wensum Valley, varying in size between 2 and 10 acres, with depths to 14 feet.
Clear Water Lake and Rainbow Pool hold Carp amongst other species.
This fishery is controlled by Norwich and District Angling Association.
Route: Take the Dereham Road from Norwich City Centre until the Roundhouse Public House and Longwater Lane on the right.
Follow the road to the end and turn left, then take the next right towards Taverham. The Lakes entrance is on the right, actually between the entrances to Costessey No2 and No3 Pits.
 
I do have a list of other venues, if anyone would like to PM with updated contact information etc I look forward to adding it to these:
 
Wallnut Tree Farm Pool Attleborough Blickling Lake Aylsham Stonegate Lake Aylsham Felmingham Mill Lake Aylsham Home Lake Aylsham Little Lake Land Bungay Chapel Road Lake Cromer Granary Lakes Dereham Dereham Tatts Pit Downham Market Fakenham Willsmore Water Fakenham Gimmingham Lakes Gimmingham Great Melton Reservoir Great Melton Pentney Carp Lakes Kings Lynn Tottenhill Pit Kings Lynn Fosters End Pit Kings Lynn Wood Lakes Kings Lynn West Lexham Moat Kings Lynn Marlingford Mere Norwich Shallow Brook Carp Lake Norwich Reepham Fisheries Norwich Ringland Lakes Norwich Lyng Easthaugh Pits Norwich Bramley Lake Norwich Felthorpe Lakes Norwich Haveringland Lake Norwich Bridge Lake Norwich Abbey Waters - Buckenham Norwich Ling Gravel Works Norwich Bedingham Pit Pit Shippham Geens Pit Snetterton Chiswick Pit Stow Bardolph Little Dunham Carp Lakes Swaffham Bradmoor Lakes Swaffham Billingford Pit Swanton Scottow Pond Swanton Abbot Nunnery Lakes Thetford Highfield Fisheries Thorpe Abbots Holkham Hall Lake Wells-next-the-sea Beeston Lake Wroxham Hoveton Hall Lake

It is the hookpulls  that to me makes me think the hair was too short, so lengthening it you have gotten them to take a bit more confidently. Again, on the extreme edge of the mouth, I would possibly add a little bit more length until hooks were firmly embedded centre of bottom lip.
 
The other way possibly to get better hookholds could actually be to feed a bit more, so the fish are feeding a bit more confidently as well.
 
I have always considered in my mind that confident feeding fish don't necessarily inspect, or suck and blow hookbaits as much as those that are not feeding comfortably, so increasing your groundbait (particles groundbait or whatever background feed), may lead them to be more confident. If they really do start feeding comfortably though, and get pre-occupied, then shortening the hair may be the answer. 
 
I know, blooming circles again!  
 
Beanz makes a fair point in hook and hair position, and I think I have mentioned it in the past? Remember the pic:

 
Where the hair leaves the hook; From thejust below the eye as KD, then the hook may well be going in point downwards, and as it is blown out, then automatically hooks the lip. From the eye itself, may be going in backwards, and be blown out, and from the bend of the hook, can be blown out backwards, so the point is still facing the throat, no chance of a hookhold. So my preference has been for the hair to leave the shank of the hook, opposite the barb/point of the hook.

It is the hookpulls  that to me makes me think the hair was too short, so lengthening it you have gotten them to take a bit more confidently. Again, on the extreme edge of the mouth, I would possibly add a little bit more length until hooks were firmly embedded centre of bottom lip.
 
The other way possibly to get better hookholds could actually be to feed a bit more, so the fish are feeding a bit more confidently as well.
 
I have always considered in my mind that confident feeding fish don't necessarily inspect, or suck and blow hookbaits as much as those that are not feeding comfortably, so increasing your groundbait (particles groundbait or whatever background feed), may lead them to be more confident. If they really do start feeding comfortably though, and get pre-occupied, then shortening the hair may be the answer. 
 
I know, blooming circles again!  
 
Beanz makes a fair point in hook and hair position, and I think I have mentioned it in the past? Remember the pic:

 
Where the hair leaves the hook; From thejust below the eye as KD, then the hook may well be going in point downwards, and as it is blown out, then automatically hooks the lip. From the eye itself, may be going in backwards, and be blown out, and from the bend of the hook, can be blown out backwards, so the point is still facing the throat, no chance of a hookhold. So my preference has been for the hair to leave the shank of the hook, opposite the barb/point of the hook.

There you go
https://forum.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=14332&highlight=wensum

Taverham Mills used to have some cracking fish in from singles up to 30lbs, although I know that at least one of the 30's got ottered     
 
Never forget your floaters in summer, in certain areas during the day or early evening they are extremely confident in taking them.
Stalking can work well in certain swims as well.
 
The lake has plenty of gravel bars, weed, lilies, silty patches for long and short range fishing.
 
DON'T ignore the margins.
 
Working from Peg1 round to the left.
Peg1-3 itself, in between the trees and past the small islands, not a particularly good area in summer for some reason, the fish move past it, but don't feed confidently, yet in winter is one of the best areas on the lake.
 
Peg 4/5 an area where the fish would cruise around the islands and in the island bay.
 
Road Bank, plenty of gravel in front of you, and a couple of islands. If you cast to the islands around pegs9-10 be very careful, the branches come along way away from the island underwater, fish have been tethered by idiots casting or boating baits too close.
 
The last swim on the road bank in the bay has a deep hole in which I'm pretty positive has a nice inlet spring in.
 
The Point, between the 2 islands, can produce, but is patchy.
 
From the next bay with the pipe connecting to Costessey, an area where the fish can hole up, but fishes best when water is beng pumped in.
 
All the pegs along the bank can produce down to what is number 29 or 30, the last before an area we called "The Backwaters", and all have plenty of gravel or island features in front of them as well as loads of weed.
 
The Backwaters themselves are good for stalking and floater fishing. By being really quiet, you can sneak up on the fish, and they do come in close, but when I say quiet, I mean silent, no vibration whatsoever
 
Onto the Plateau Point, the swim to the right of the main Plateau swim has long produced fish from the far bank corner to the right or under the overhanging tree in front.
 
The Plateau swim, a BIG double swim, but although the fish do go over the plateau, it can be difficult, and if the water level is low, you will be fishing in water which may only just cover your ankles.
 
Carrying on round you have what are known as "The Tench Swims", the 3 or 4 swims with the last in the corner.
The 2nd and 3rd from that corner have the remains of a WW2 Bomber in, so can be a bit snaggy as well as having loads of lilies in front.
 
Onto the Cowtail you have the swims on the island, the fish actually are catchable between the island and the main bank, and towards the Plateau is a very big silt patch, that used to hold LARGE bream to over Double figures.
Round the Cowtail you have the same water as the Back Bank, and is a shorter walk   is worthwhile if no-one is fishing the back bank.
 
Cowtail corner, to the tree in the water along the island to the left. To the right you have a large gravel bank along the island, but it doesn't produce much. The left side of the swim is the better option.
To the left the next 3 swims all face to the island, as does CowTail point down the slope, but the point also has water to the left. All will produce at times.
The other swim down the slope to the left of the point has a number of nice features.
 
Round into the bay, a couple of swims on the high bank, don't ignore them and fish the margins. Hidden in that bay is a large rock standing proud of the lakebed, it will take a lot of finding (unless you can get a rowing boat out and actually see it).
 
The swim at the back of the bay, margins and fallen tree to the right, lily pad in front.
Swim in the corner is pretty much a cut-off.
 
Round onto the meadow swims, all produce fish, and there is plenty of weed.
 
I don't know the lake at all, not much anyway   
 
I used to fish (live on) there, but I haven't been back for 8years as I feel it couldn't live up to how I learnt to fish it
 
 
I wrote the above post about 4 years ago
 
The fish can really get onto a good bait, so prebaiting with a food source boilie can work very well for you. I used to absolutely load up with fishmeals, knowing that the carp were eating almost all of them (the tench and bream got a few), and since almost everyone at one time used the same baits who were fishing it, the fish loved them. When I moved back to Ipswich, I carried on feeding The Biollix for a number of years on my monthly trips and still caught, but my mate was fishing and feeding a Pellet based base mix bait, and was also catching as many fish
 

Very well explained Ouchthathurt, thank you! Makes sense to me now, for years (literally) I've not known why and how a bent hook will cause damage and couldn't understand how double hooking could happen!
The fish safety talk always makes me cringe a little, as it is a total juxtaposition ( long word, oh yeah, probably spelt wrong) having tempted a fish with the most attractive meal I can make I force a ridiculously sharp object into its mouth and drag it out of its environment effectively suffocating it just to take a picture and try again to get the rest of its family.... Although I am aware the fish can't appreciate what I do I will try to minimise any long term impact.
 
I went to my local lake which I adore, small tree lined, not any anglers and even less carp! The trees over hang quite far and there is currently a dead duck decomposing on one of the over hangs as it took a liking to a rig that was snapped off in the tree with its bait attached.... This is a horrible sight and would break my heart if it was a carp that had been snagged up like this. And for this reason I stay away from rigs and methods that carry the myths and rumors of harming fish, even though a lot of time I can't understand the potential for damage.
 
So for me having read your explanation of the bent hook issue and if this may be a similar problem for the 360 I will stay away from using it. I'm not a big fish angler, but I complicate anything I can so rigs with lots of swivels, whistles & bells catch my attention.
 
I think tackle company's and magazines should take more responsibility and give clear instructions on the specifics of the kit they sell and the difference between rigs for big carp and rigs for smaller standard size carp..... (Ok essay over, now back to just hitting the like button)

Rob maylin also outlined the dangers of the bent hook rig in print too, once they became known. The 360 rig is attributed to dave lane who stated it was a "big fish" rig where the likelyhood of doublehooking/stitching the hook is less likely. Some mouth damage will be down to poor unhooking, refusal to cut the hook if required (or even not being aware this is an option, how many people truthfully think to snip a hook?) also using the 360 rig out of the context to which it was origionally designed. I think that its use on smaller fish, high stock runs waters (for which it wasnt designed) is another reason why mouth damage may be encountered. Personally i think there are other pop up rigs out there that are just as effective.
 

I wonder how much mouth damage from some of these rigs is down to bad unhooking?
 
I have no problems in cutting the hook, on the shank, just below the eye or as low as I can get, and then feeding the point through. The cut eye section will fall away with no problems. It is fiddling and faffing and forcing the hook free (with any rig) that can cause (additional) damage. Then dose up the hookmark, or marks with Klinik or similar hookpoint antiseptic treatment
 
 
I would much rather tie on a fresh hooklink, rig or hook, than expect to re-use the same one each time. 
 
Please don't get me wrong, I am very tight on hooks, and materials, if it is sharp enough, then to me it is good enough, but for the sake of NOT damaging a fish, I would far rather cut the hook or hooklink than be responsible for mouth damage.
A good pair of wire/side cutters is an important item to have in the tackle box for that very reason.
 
I think that it is long shank hooks that can be the cause of much mouth damage, especially in small fish, whatever pattern, Carp-R-Us Longshank Nailer, Fox Series 5, Ritchie MacDonald Z13 or PiggyBacks, whenever there is a chance of double hooking, and I think that many anglers are using fashionable rigs, without necessarily knowing or being able to think out the potential risks. It is not even their fault, but since Rob Maylin first published the Bent Hook Rig, it got used everywhere, and the same is true of the 360 rig. 

The 360 rig is sometimes pinned with mouth damage due to its mechanics, in the same way the long shank bent hook rig was in the 80-90s - indeed this rig was banned in many places. The long shank aspect used to "double hook" (hook through the lips multiple times, otherwise called stitching) and then tear in the carps mouth, the bent hook, if not bent correctly, would open and close at the point of bending kind of like an old fashioned can opener causing damage to the carp.
 
The fox series 5 - the first commercially available long shanked curved hook brought in to try and emulate the success of the bent hook rig. It was found that smaller, more frantic carp could "double hook" themselves which then tore, ripping the lips. The readon shrink tube became so popular was it allowed you to fish a "bent hook" which didnt cause the damage with the hook opening and closing like a can openerin the carps mouth this is why we bend and curve shrink tube, to emulate the bent hook rig.The link has been made between the longshanked aspect and the 360 rig, it has been said (by "them") that it can cause the double hooking which leads to mouth damage. The evidence is not exactly solid, in the case of the bent hook rig, the damage and its cause was obvious, and lots of lakes banned it. The 360 rig is used by many top anglers, mr dave lane being one of them, it is seen as a "big fish rig" mostly down to the fact it utilises a longshanked hook which can hook multiple times in a smaller carps mouth. It is also designed to be fished heavily weighted as opposed to critically balanced. The idea is that the pop up spins 360 degrees and hook in the bottom lip. The use of a longshank hook has always been linked to mouth damage to smaller carp. Whether its true or not? Well thats open to speculation, the old bent hook was brutal, but the 360 rig is well popular and well used, if it was as damaging as the old bent hook rig was, then we would know by now, its been out for years, i dont use it as its too much metal in/around the hook - plus the use of a longshank puts me off a bit, as i remember the mouth damage from the 1st longshank curved hooks and bent hook rigs. I havent seen the series 5 on sale for years, although fox do sell the armapoint LSC which look near as damn it identical.
 

I used to catch with it Pete. Wouldn't say I did amazingly well, but I was only an apprentice and a kilo of boilies cost me an arm and a leg so only two or three freebies went in with it 
 
I always had the float rod out as well which was my man source of fishing at the time.
 
I saved for months to buy a carbon composite rod and a reel because I wanted to try carp fishing and then a kilo of boilies had to last about 6-8 weeks.

Yeah, this is almost the modern take of this classic rig, however using a light line hair from the bend of the hook, without the hair being a continuation of the hooklink which seems to make it stiffer, the light, long hair makes the point of the hook "heavy" and the hook is more unstable on ejection. Its similar to the very early hairs during their inception with lenny middleton the knotless knot/continuation of hooklink-hair is a relatively recent concept, the hairs were often lighter hairs tied seperatley on to the eye or shank of the hook. As the hooklink of the time was mono, dental floss hairs on mono links were one of the first hair rigs i ever used in the mid 90's 
The "hook bend hair" is relatively forgotten about as being "old" but it can work. It looks pretty "hookable" i think with a curveshanked hook, this would flip over and dig in really well.
 

You're not alone in loving cork handles. I'm sort of betwixt and between in that, a few years back, I had my Greys Prodigys customised to suit me and my needs rather than having full-on custom built rods.
 
The first thing that I insisted on was full Portugese cork handles which came out just perfect for me, all these years later I'm still loving them.
 
I also had Fuji reel seats fitted, all of the eyes relined with PTFE which has the lowest coefficient of friction in the civilised world (possibly ) and slightly larger diameter tip-eyes. Oh, and rather posh brushed stainless butt caps.
 
These rods are now fully mature (read "old") but I'm very fond of them and ain't looking to change them any time soon.
 
Ian

Build wise, many machine built rods will not be built using the natural spine of the blank.

Aside from aesthetics, Where a custom rod really comes into its own, is the fact that its custom. You can have the handle length set up perfectly for your arm length, and the eyes positioned perfectly dependingon what reel you are going to be using.

Yes mate, very similar. I like to use a stiff filament though as I found it tangles less especially if used with an anti-tangle sleeve on the hooklink. Also, the large ring, used so the mainline can travel through with as little resistance as possible, sometimes had the tendency to 'spin' leaving the mainline sort or trapped. It's not that much of a problem but makes it act as a fixed lead (not what I was after with the setup). To combat this, a short length of tubing on the mainline, blobbed into the bead to stop it slipping, works wonders!
I showed this to Mick the other week at Horseshoe. It's how I set up my marker float but incorporate a foot of leadcore (lead removed) to get over that spinning of the ring.

I don't use runing rigs that often but when I do, and I am fishing in silt or a soft area as you put it, I will use this simple arangement (sorry for the tattyness. It was just a quick sketch as its better than me trying to explain it in words):
 

And with leadcore and pendant or inline set-ups, it only takes a tiny kink and the fish could now be trailing a death rig. If you have to use leadcore, then only ever with a helicopter set-up, but my advice, is ditch the leadcore totally.
 
I know about inline running leads, and yes, they can work, but are they working as we think they are?
 
I came to the conclusion, if I want a running lead, use a run ring. If I want to fish in weed with an inline, then use a straight semi-fixed inline

Just reading this and realised I didn't make it particularly clear.
 
I make the hair from the mono, by tying a uni knot loop at the end, and putting pop-up in to get the hair length right. With the pop-up in place, I then attach the hair to the ring allowing enough space for a bottom bait as well. I then remove the pop-up, and put bottom bait on the hair with baiting needle, the pop-up then gets put back into the loop. The pop-up effectively becomes the bait stop. 

If you do decide on Lee valley, it's likely I'll be back on Nazeing. I've got withdrawal symptoms for the lagoons, and I'll happily put kettle on for you, if you can handle black coffee, and chat if you ever wander round when I'm there