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Crimping and fluorocarbon


elmoputney

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10 hours ago, InteraX said:

Trakker CR 3 piece suit, ready for winter now.

OMC tungsten putty.

20m 20lb OMC flourocarbon.

Korda Krimps

Korda Small Krimp Tool

Korda Spinner Ring Swivels

Time to try making some of my own Ronnie's with a nice stiff boom.

You might want to check that the fluorocarbon is crimpable, some of them aren't and it makes them weak, most of the crimpable booms are made from mono rather than fluoro, personally I use korda boom for krimping. 

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On 06/10/2024 at 07:30, elmoputney said:

You might want to check that the fluorocarbon is crimpable, some of them aren't and it makes them weak, most of the crimpable booms are made from mono rather than fluoro, personally I use korda boom for krimping. 

Fluorocarbon is funny stuff.

On the stuff i have tested it has around the same stretch as mono, but as it gets to the stretch 'point' it doesn't go back, it breaks, it is not elastic like mono.

It is also different for knots. I have had uni knots give way, but never a blood knot.

 

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On 06/10/2024 at 07:30, elmoputney said:

You might want to check that the fluorocarbon is crimpable, some of them aren't and it makes them weak, most of the crimpable booms are made from mono rather than fluoro, personally I use korda boom for krimping. 

My mate used the crimps as described and pulled hard on the finished rigs - every one snapped at the crimp.  Thinking he was doing something wrong he explained the issue to a guy on the Korda stand at a show - he made a rig and passed it to my mate who pulled it and it snapped at the crimp exactly the same, the guy didn't know what to say and hurried away to a different customer.

I won't use them full stop after this, not that I was considering anyway.

I'd recommend really testing the finished rigs, are they as strong as you imagined?

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2 hours ago, kevtaylor said:

My mate used the crimps as described and pulled hard on the finished rigs - every one snapped at the crimp.  Thinking he was doing something wrong he explained the issue to a guy on the Korda stand at a show - he made a rig and passed it to my mate who pulled it and it snapped at the crimp exactly the same, the guy didn't know what to say and hurried away to a different customer.

I won't use them full stop after this, not that I was considering anyway.

I'd recommend really testing the finished rigs, are they as strong as you imagined?

It was Rod Hutchinson who said "test a knot by hammering it".

I presume he meant give it a good pull, yank it, put it under pressure.

Every knot I tie, I test it, every crimp trace, whether for pike or sea fishing I test it.

I don't like crimped rigs for carp fishing. 

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2 hours ago, kevtaylor said:

My mate used the crimps as described and pulled hard on the finished rigs - every one snapped at the crimp.  Thinking he was doing something wrong he explained the issue to a guy on the Korda stand at a show - he made a rig and passed it to my mate who pulled it and it snapped at the crimp exactly the same, the guy didn't know what to say and hurried away to a different customer.

I won't use them full stop after this, not that I was considering anyway.

I'd recommend really testing the finished rigs, are they as strong as you imagined?

I haven't had any issues yet, if they don't click when you crush them, they tend to slip, so I would redo them, i pull them everytime to the point I think they would slip and If I pulled the granny out of it, I think that it would snap at the crimp

But I also think if I made a knotted version of my boom if i pull it hard enough it will probably snap, I seem to remember doing that with some fluorocarbon rigs and snapping them someone told me not to pull it so hard 😂

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1 hour ago, elmoputney said:

I haven't had any issues yet, if they don't click when you crush them, they tend to slip, so I would redo them, i pull them everytime to the point I think they would slip and If I pulled the granny out of it, I think that it would snap at the crimp

But I also think if I made a knotted version of my boom if i pull it hard enough it will probably snap, I seem to remember doing that with some fluorocarbon rigs and snapping them someone told me not to pull it so hard 😂

Lol - thats what they said to my mate, seems off, it's snapping below the stated breaking strain surely.  Then if you get it a bit wrong well below.

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28 minutes ago, kevtaylor said:

Lol - thats what they said to my mate, seems off, it's snapping below the stated breaking strain surely.  Then if you get it a bit wrong well below.

It depends I think, personally I pull it tight enough to test it knowing that it's under tension, but I've learnt it will snap if you pull it too much, it's more like a mainline, if you did a boom of mainline with loops at both ends, you know it will snap eventually, you kind of have to treat it like that, 

I did also go through a phase of having doubts about them, but over time I've just got used to them and no longer worry, I use the 15lb boom with XS crimps. You definately need the right size crimps for BS. 

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49 minutes ago, elmoputney said:

It depends I think, personally I pull it tight enough to test it knowing that it's under tension, but I've learnt it will snap if you pull it too much, it's more like a mainline, if you did a boom of mainline with loops at both ends, you know it will snap eventually, you kind of have to treat it like that, 

I did also go through a phase of having doubts about them, but over time I've just got used to them and no longer worry, I use the 15lb boom with XS crimps. You definately need the right size crimps for BS. 

 

1 hour ago, kevtaylor said:

Lol - thats what they said to my mate, seems off, it's snapping below the stated breaking strain surely.  Then if you get it a bit wrong well below.

Does a fish know not to pull too hard?

Fluorocarbon loses 5% strength with any knot, and any kink can cause it to break.

Fracturing it with a crimp...

I've never had a problem with the blood knot or Clinch knot with fluorocarbon. 

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12 hours ago, salokcinnodrog said:

 

Does a fish know not to pull too hard?

I was going to just ignore this but I can't. I guess I have to justify all my opinions these days. 

However hard a fish pulls not all the pressure will be on the crimped boom, there is also however much line acting as a shock absorber behind it. Then you also have the clutch on your reel to further lessen the tension. The bend of your rod and your body movements to take away the impact, it won't all be on the rig. 

I use 15lb boom for my rigs, and 21lb line at the moment, and I will tell you why.

in the unfortunate event of a break (which hasn't happened yet and I've had some savage fights with decent sized carp ) more than likely it WILL break at the boom, but to me that is preferable to the fish also dragging about 50yds of trailing line and a lead system that might get tethered and not discharge as it should (and yes i do have a robust lead set up that should discharge) if I have played a fish so hard that my set up has failed I would call that bad angling on my part. Obviously sometimes your set up might fail but things cannot be helped and that is just unlucky (act of god stuff) but... 

I test each boom that I make and have used them for multiple captures so I am confident my process is robust. 

 

 

 

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11 hours ago, elmoputney said:

I'm not using fluorocarbon. 

Because I don't use stiff mono or fluoro booms I don't have to deal with the knot or crimp issue, if I did I'd prefer the crimped look but have concerns over damage or try to master some sort of perfect loop knot.

I can't see me not using a braided boom section despite the visibility of it over fluoros and monos, simply because I don't like the idea of it sitting funny.  I'm not finding clear gravel areas on the pits I'm fishing.  If I went down the stiff boom route I'd have to use heli's as standard and I much prefer clips for convenience/lazy and imo better hooking.

What are you fishing over with the booms and what set-up?

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3 minutes ago, kevtaylor said:

Because I don't use stiff mono or fluoro booms I don't have to deal with the knot or crimp issue, if I did I'd prefer the crimped look but have concerns over damage or try to master some sort of perfect loop knot.

I can't see me not using a braided boom section despite the visibility of it over fluoros and monos, simply because I don't like the idea of it sitting funny.  I'm not finding clear gravel areas on the pits I'm fishing.  If I went down the stiff boom route I'd have to use heli's as standard and I much prefer clips for convenience/lazy and imo better hooking.

What are you fishing over with the booms and what set-up?

I do get why people prefer braided hooklinks they are stronger you would struggle to break them by pulling them,also sitting funny that's why I prefer the 15lb it is a lot more supple than the thicker heavier ones. 

My preferred spots are usually smooth clay/slightly silty spots tbh 

 

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12 minutes ago, elmoputney said:

I do get why people prefer braided hooklinks they are stronger you would struggle to break them by pulling them,also sitting funny that's why I prefer the 15lb it is a lot more supple than the thicker heavier ones. 

My preferred spots are usually smooth clay/slightly silty spots tbh 

 

I've got some Gardner Tricklink probably in 15lb that's quite supple, had a play with that - seems good.

Gonna try the Trilene Fluoro I've bought for leaders next was better value and bigger spool around 100 metres, feels supple and pulls straight just like the specific leader spools where get less of it.

With the clarity of the water I'm on I do think should I be using less visible booms, moved onto the fluoro leaders a couple of years back due to the clarity.  Might have a play around this winter/spring, but want to keep the leadclips if poss so it will have to be a supple material.

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7 minutes ago, kevtaylor said:

 

 

 

47 minutes ago, kevtaylor said:

I've got some Gardner Tricklink probably in 15lb that's quite supple, had a play with that - seems good.

Gonna try the Trilene Fluoro I've bought for leaders next was better value and bigger spool around 100 metres, feels supple and pulls straight just like the specific leader spools where get less of it.

With the clarity of the water I'm on I do think should I be using less visible booms, moved onto the fluoro leaders a couple of years back due to the clarity.  Might have a play around this winter/spring, but want to keep the leadclips if poss so it will have to be a supple material.

You can crimp tricklink works quite well, I've only got in 25lb and that's a bit too stiff,

if you are concerned about your rig not sitting right you can always lengthen the boom, with the 15lb it does have some flexibility. Since messing with it in the margins I am convinced it's a lot less visible. I will use it with a lead clip, but I am mainly using inline leads at the moment and have been playing with shorter booms quite successfully. 

Another thing I haven't done yet but might consider is using a marker ring swivel,rather than a kwik change, I think because of the big ring it's more likely to sit well on the bottom. 

Something to think about anyway. 

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3 hours ago, elmoputney said:

I was going to just ignore this but I can't. I guess I have to justify all my opinions these days. 

However hard a fish pulls not all the pressure will be on the crimped boom, there is also however much line acting as a shock absorber behind it. Then you also have the clutch on your reel to further lessen the tension. The bend of your rod and your body movements to take away the impact, it won't all be on the rig. 

I use 15lb boom for my rigs, and 21lb line at the moment, and I will tell you why.

in the unfortunate event of a break (which hasn't happened yet and I've had some savage fights with decent sized carp ) more than likely it WILL break at the boom, but to me that is preferable to the fish also dragging about 50yds of trailing line and a lead system that might get tethered and not discharge as it should (and yes i do have a robust lead set up that should discharge) if I have played a fish so hard that my set up has failed I would call that bad angling on my part. Obviously sometimes your set up might fail but things cannot be helped and that is just unlucky (act of god stuff) but... 

I test each boom that I make and have used them for multiple captures so I am confident my process is robust. 

 

 

 

Oh it doesn't take bad angling to leave a rig in the lake, annoying pike can do it for you...

I've retrieved mine and other anglers rigs from the syndicate lake this year and before, some with bait and leads still attached on helicopter, lead clip and other pendant set-ups. The only thing I haven't retrieved is a lead on a run ring...

Pike biting the line as they swim past it chasing fish and the whole lot is gone.

I switch between knotted booms on combi-rigs with and without swivels, both braided on reverse combi's, and coated braid and mono (usually) Amnesia.

The swivel is a benefit for changing just the hook 'linklet' compared to the whole rig, although Jackal as a boom does tend to get stripped.

My booms also last multiple captures.

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1 hour ago, elmoputney said:

 

 

You can crimp tricklink works quite well, I've only got in 25lb and that's a bit too stiff,

if you are concerned about your rig not sitting right you can always lengthen the boom, with the 15lb it does have some flexibility. Since messing with it in the margins I am convinced it's a lot less visible. I will use it with a lead clip, but I am mainly using inline leads at the moment and have been playing with shorter booms quite successfully. 

Another thing I haven't done yet but might consider is using a marker ring swivel,rather than a kwik change, I think because of the big ring it's more likely to sit well on the bottom. 

Something to think about anyway. 

Good in principle but thing that may hinder that would be the weight of the ring swivel as they are a lot heavier.

but,

on the other hand may use less putty lol

rigs huh ..🤔 

 

 

has anyone ever weighed some of this stuff we use 🫣🫣

Edited by framey
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2 hours ago, framey said:

Good in principle but thing that may hinder that would be the weight of the ring swivel as they are a lot heavier.

but,

on the other hand may use less putty lol

rigs huh ..🤔 

 

 

has anyone ever weighed some of this stuff we use 🫣🫣

I could, I have some sensitive scales at work, I do feel that may be some next level stuff though 😂

Perhaps with tank testing and a set of scales you could also measure out the perfect amount of putty required for your rig to make it perfectly  balanced 😬 korda rig skales anyone? 

Tbh I think the weight of a marker swivel vs say a quick link swivel probably wouldn't be that much different. Negligible 

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