yonny

There's a lesson to be learned right there bud - If you've had what you believe to be inquiries on a given spot and you're not 100% sure what the bottom's like, always find out at the end of the session. All it takes is a couple of casts with a bare lead - and you're one up in preparation for your next sesh!
 
I'd say I do more marking at the end of sessions than I do at the start. I agree that on 'proper' waters marking up can spook the carp - therefore if I can get a drop and I know I'm on fish it's good enough for me - but I never walk away without having a quick chuck to determine the substrate.

I know its not a perfect test , better than nowt, you can notice the difference between hooks , I pull back using just the tip of my index finger !

There's loads of products that are just pants in certain circumstances, it's amazing the difference fishing in thick weed makes on your tackle choices & what's in your tackle box .

I test every single hook. As I take it out of the pack I check to see the point is ok, and if I can bend it by hand, and When I pull my knots tight I pull the hook with the grip holes on a pair of forceps. I know I'm pulling the centre of the bend, but any weakness should show up between those checks.
 
I know it's not relevant now, but I have used Kamasan B175's in the past for the bent hook rigs, and I did used to bend them mid shank. I never had one of those go wrong, straighten or bend out. In fact I do still do that when I use them on pike traces as the upper single hook, and again, not had a problem.
 
I think some branded carp hooks are a cheaper copy of some other hooks, the pattern being arrived at in response to other brands being there first, a tackle brand making cost cutting exercises or a compromise of cost vs strength and reliability. In other words I won't trust some tackle branded hooks at all. Get a hook pattern you can rely on, and don't just follow fashion. Get the right hook for your fishing; don't use a thin gauge hook near snags or where you need to put the pressure on.

when I open a new pack I will test one of the hooks , always now , every pack one gets sacrificed ,
 if someone brought a hook out and could guarantee it wouldn't open out I would part with £10 for 10 , even more ! when you look at the money with all your tackle , bait , prebaiting , and that feeling when you loose  a big un after all that time and effort , so demoralising !

I'd be inclined to agree with you Yonny, albeit in a slightly less scientific manner. Atomic hooks are the best hooks I've used in a long time.

Great stuff chaps!! yonny I would go with size 4 krank is poo! I thinks it isn't strong enough for the size of the gape, the 8's and 10's seem a lot better.

I have learnt from experience to test a hooks strength before it is put to use  and if I feel its not strong enough , I do not hesitate , they go in the reject tub !

You mean you test every single hook? Or you test a given brand/pattern prior to using? How do you test them fella?

We cannot say for a fact that the Korda's are softer fella - all we can say is that nealjt's test result and my findings re sharpening are indicative of a hook that is softer than some other brands. If they're softer then yes, they would blunt more easily, it is a given.
 
So you should be mate! It's the single most important consumable item in our tackle box.

They're just not strong enough for my liking bud. That said, I'm a Nene Valley chap so have to deal with serious weed on most waters.
 
Dude - My experience, as QA Manager for a manufacturer of heat treated carbon steel fasteners (the same process used to make hooks) for the automotive industry, tells me it's a fact that if the yield point is exceeded even once, you've weakened the hook significantly - spring rate is compromised so the hook cannot absorb shock as intended. Therefore when stresses on the hook reach a certain level the hook WILL bend rather than flex - it's just a question of whether those stress levels will be reached while the fish is being landed. I'm not saying you can't land fish on modified hooks (as you say, plenty have been landed), just that IMO it's not worth the risk - it's asking for trouble fella.

Agreed yonny, the bad batch line isn't acceptable and wouldn't be acceptable in other retail areas!
 
Re kranks it is a shame as I've now lost confidence in a hook I really like. I don't get why any company would sell poor items and not have decent checks in place. Do they not value their reputation?
 
Two companies I now won't buy from are korda and tfgear. I'm sure a lot of their gear is good, but my disappointment with the kranks from korda and having got some bite alarms from Tf that were just toot, I will now not risk my money on any other products by those companies.
 
I'm reasonably confident Tf would have replaced the alarms, (they were ridiculously quiet and quickly died in the rain) but replacement is too late when I'm on the bank and stuff fails.

The vast majority of hooks come from China but it's a myth that all Chinese manufacturers are bad fella. Some are very. very good indeed. The problems start when the tackle brands try to cut costs by using the cheaper manufacturers (which are the guys you're referring to).
It winds me up - it's fair enough that the tackle brands want to increase their margin, that's standard business practise, but if they choose to go down that route than they should have a robust inspection of product when it gets to Europe. It's clear that in many cases they don't do any testing whatsoever - they just take it for granted that the hooks are sound and then come out with their "you'll always get a bad batch" rollocks when they fail in the field. In those cases you have to blame the tackle firm as much as the manufacturer, or more so in my mind.

The vast majority of hooks come from China but it's a myth that all Chinese manufacturers are bad fella. Some are very. very good indeed. The problems start when the tackle brands try to cut costs by using the cheaper manufacturers (which are the guys you're referring to).
It winds me up - it's fair enough that the tackle brands want to increase their margin, that's standard business practise, but if they choose to go down that route than they should have a robust inspection of product when it gets to Europe. It's clear that in many cases they don't do any testing whatsoever - they just take it for granted that the hooks are sound and then come out with their "you'll always get a bad batch" rollocks when they fail in the field. In those cases you have to blame the tackle firm as much as the manufacturer, or more so in my mind.

Mine arrived yesterday. It looks good but I aint used it yet....
Basically my fist impression is that they've fixed all the problems I saw with the Spomb. Can't ask for much more than that.
Looks well built but looks don't always tell the full story.

Just to second everything Kev said, and to illustrate how hard Kingy can be:
 
I've fished Bluebell a couple of times a year for the past 10 years or so. I started off with Bluebell lake and it took me a good couple of sessions to get to grips with that properly. Don't get me wrong it can be hectic on Bluebell but most people still blank all the time. Those fish have seen everything.
 
Anyway, Kingy; I have fished the lake twice. On my fist visit I had an upper double mirror and thought hey-ho this is gonna be easy, just fish it like the other waters. How wrong I was. The second session, earlier this year, I spent a blank night on the lock bank and saw loads of fish topping in the far corner. First thing in the morning I moved round there and set up as quietly as possible. The fish stayed in front of me and I thought I was in for a cracker.
 
To cut a long story short, I spent 2 days and nights with fish all over me trying everything I could (and failing) to get a bite. At one point I had a group of 12 fish visiting a tiny gravel spot in the margins every half hour. I managed to get 6 chops (i.e. 3 boilies, halved) on the spot and sat back to see if they would be taken, no rig on the spot at this point. Twenty mins later there they are, they were straight over to the spot. As soon as they saw those chops they spooked, and I mean spooked properly. Turned, did the off, and didn't come back.
 
How do you go about catching fish that react to 3 boiles like that?
 
I've been fishing for carp for 15 years and like to think I know a thing or two about catching them, but those fish in Kingy did me up like a kipper.
 
One thing I will say is it must be the most exciting blank I've ever had, and I can't wait to get back there at some point. All the same, if it's your first visit to the complex I would start with one of the easier waters and even then don't count on having a red letter day. Unless you're bang on numbers of fish even Bluebell, Mallard etc can be tricky.

Whilst I'm not trying to be the Swan and Kingfisher police - I think that the fact that you say 'if I only get one I'll be happy' possibly suggests that you are a little unrealistic in your choices.  You are possibly fishing for the fish of a lifetime on those lakes so jumping in at the deep end could be a bit daunting and counter productive on your first visit.  I prefer to think that you work your way up to it if you like but then people will try and get lucky so who knows.  Fishing Kingfisher is mega exciting and if you are lucky to have them showing it fuels that fire like nothing else, what a buzz.
 
Mallard holds good numbers of cracking scaley fish that go 30+, it is busy but lots of swims with lots of water to go at. Halfway along the road bank is a fair bet and when I fished it there was a lovely line of weed at around 40 yards that was good to drop just over.  Sandmartin is smaller and deeper, the deepest water on the complex, nice corners and margins for stalking, less fish than Mallard but a good introduction to gravel pit fishing - again fish over 30 and possibly a surprise or two.  The least pressured lake on the complex but slightly busier than it used to be as people are starting to realise what a decent water it is.
 
Bluebell is the most circus like through summer, it is a mixed lake plenty of good tench and bream and of course carp to 30+  possibly the best looking lake on the complex.
 
My best tip would be not to rush in, check all the lakes out and give yourself an hour or so to consider your options.  Park at the shop and tell them that you want to check the lakes out before deciding and they will let you do it.  Focus on finding fish or likely areas given the conditions first and foremost  and let that decide which lake gives you the best situation.  Study the weather before you go as well as pictures of the lakes so you arrive knowing where the wind is going to be blowing on each lake and when it may swing to over the course of your session - that way you can read situations and be first to move into the right areas.
 
I focus on this and getting the basics right such as anti tangle rigs, tried and tested rig styles and components that you trust, stick to what works for you elsewhere, this is not the time to be trying the latest wonder rig.  I find clean spots so don't use chods or such like but you have to use what you have complete confidence in.
 
If you choose the hardest 2 lakes don't be surprised if they turn up in a corner out of the way of the lines and pressure - they are not stupid but if you are stealthy you can have one in no time at all.  
 
Overall I go back to finding the best situation i.e. free swims where you expect them to be or move to over the course of your session, rather than choosing a lake from the outset.  Most of all enjoy the experience and learn from it - you are paying good money for the fishing but it is worth it.

A 20 from horseshoe holds the merit of a 40 from the monument as well......
Proper carp for proper anglers.

A 20 from horseshoe holds the merit of a 40 from the monument as well......
Proper carp for proper anglers.

A 20 from horseshoe holds the merit of a 40 from the monument as well......
Proper carp for proper anglers.

I'm certainly not convinced of that .yes it will be fishing pretty much whereever you sling it but i couldnt call the Chod a 'general all-round rig.
 
It was designed , i believe , for fishong in silt , and i have used it quite a bit in recent years when Fishing a lake covered in a thin layer of filamous algae as i think it gives a pretty good presentation in cases like that .
 
However as somebody else has said , i wouldnt dream of using it over clean gravel and would be very dubious of its use in heavy weed especially the lakebed to surface stuff.
 
A search of the forum will bring up good alternatives including a paternoster-type rig i believe , that i know Nick and CM to name but two , are big fans of .
 
Imo there is no general purpose rig like a simple standard kk rig in various materials , on a running set up () , simply because of its versatility and its ability to be used for upteen different applications with a tiny tweak to suit conditions .
 
I have used the Choddy a lot over the years but because conditions dictated it , in my opinion of course

Disagree. That may be the point of the rig for less experienced anglers (the chuck-it-out-and-have-a-beer brigade) . For those that are experienced, the point of the rig is to fish spots that cannot be fished effectively with more conventional rigs. It can be used to chuck at fish showing over an area of unknown bottom but that is a secondary purpose.
I would never dream of putting a choddy on a clear area.

The rig on your link is the simplest you will find and will catch carp from any venue.
 
If it ain't broke and all that.

The Linch Hill complex is the best in Oxford. Christchurch and Willow lakes can be fished on a day ticket.

£5 for 3 zigs is VERY pricey!
You can get 100m of Drennan double strength for £5. That will make 33 10ft zigs.