beanz

vaseline works,but if your too embarrassed to buy it then the body produces it own grease....behind the ear is an easy way to grease a hook length,just run it along the crease between head and ear

the line angle will effect whether a lead moves or not, if the tow/flow is coming directly from from the line the lead may bounce, if from the sides it can move/roll but if its coming from above( your facing into the flow/tow) with a semi slack line even a light lead can hold,as the gets line is pinned down,reducing the drag on the line. its called up streaming( if i remeber right) may be worth you finding a feeder fishing on rivers book ,or google it

it could end up working against you ,you'l have a pop up 2-3inches above some feed....great if they take the hook bait 1st. that said, if you give it a go, i cant see why you couldnt add a bag on the hook,as unless your in deep weed it shouldnt pull the hook in,and when it melts the pop up should lift it clear. gluging the pop up would be my 1st choice to add some extra attraction

if using cork balls, putting a needle through can break the shell out the back side, it can be done but is so fiddly tying on with floss is quicker

if differs from lake to lake,some are prolific night waters, others you cant buy a bite at night . some thing to think about though is whether you want rig camouflage or rig concealment to some anglers its the same thing,others it a totally different approach

as you tie the knotless knot, wrap it around a few turns over the top on the way back up. this stop it moving ,as fluoro is rather springy and can loosen( this is when it can weaken ,as it rubs in the eye). also just before you fully pull it through the eye,wet it and gently finish pulling it through tight.

depends on the river........but iv never prebaited the nene and done well,i planed to bait on my 1st ever sess,but took a rod,caught and since have only ever turned up and fed a handfull of bait on the day. finding them is so much more important then pre baiting,fair enough youl get them to feed there at some point, but why feed when a single can do the job

i think an out turned eye works better.any make will do ,as long as its sharp

the d ring has a bait close to the hook,and classes as a short or non existent hair. with surface or zig fishing its more effective to have the bait close to the hook. the is no right and wrong,only situations where one suits better

sounds like a golfer searching for the perfect round same for our sport, i dont think you can ever win at it,only take part. the one thing i do think that makes a rig the "ultimate" is its anti eject qualities,like the stiff hinge,chod but saying that in many situations it can work against you............so as long as any rig has a sharpe hook then it will do. its all the possible variables that make the sport interesting, and so many theories talked about....and all the forums going.

i cant help but laugh when a simple rig gets a tweak then suddenly its a new rig. i added tubing on a hook length once as i didnt have the kit while on the bank to make a combi rig, and wanted a boom on the soft braid i had...do i get naming rights??? but i still cant see that it works like its explained as. surely it still has the possibility of lifting of the deck if a fish wafts it??? then if leafs are stirred up ...the chance to mask the hook....and then if the bottom is more then a chod,wouldnt it sit up ,and possibly spook any fish before they even take it...........then if your going to drop it under the rod tip(like recommended) why even bother with it as id think it would stand out.

it sounds like some 'reinvented' rig like silt/chod ,going off the "litter" description or may a crisp packet over the hook length ????

im pretty sure it comes out the other end [is a fish able to 'spit it out' ] all to often ,

using a weak link to fix the lead on while using leadcore or any leader on a heli/chod set up compromises the safety aspect, you need the weight of the lead on the leader in the invent of a crank off/line break for the hook link to be able to pull free/dump the leader. without the weight ,the leader can easily stay connected to the the hook link, leaving the fish trailing both hook length and leader

go get your size 6 and 8 hooks and see what you think for yourself keep in mind the size of a doubles mouth,and the fact they suck in stones and twigs while feeding,then the difference in weight between the two is so minimal its not worth worrying about. id bet most boillies weigh more then the actual hook any way

if you planned to fish 1m under the surface in 6m depth then on a long zig length and bolt rig ,and presuming the cast went well,then the pop up shouldnt get to the depth where the pressure will effect it. it should float on the surface until the lead reaches a depth where it can pull it under. im not sure i follow you with the choddy comparison, in long grass( as you put it) the choddy would pull down to where the line settled( most likly hiden), a zig could be used to hold a bait above, just like float fishing but with a different line angle

this seems to contradict itself...........a zig is a simple rig really,it can be made complicated with sunken floats and bits, but used with a bolt and long length or just letting line out on a running set up is rather simple compared to a choddy

they call it the mushroom , its meant to lift the hook point clear of the bottom, you can add it to the hair either way, you dont have to do it the korda way. you can drill it all the way through.

is this a joke,whose re-registered for a laugh ???? either that or its a sad fact that natural selection has been badly effected by so many health and safety laws

this is a problem with the clip...it works when the fish takes it away from you...not so great when you retrieve,can cause problems if it snaggy and you reel in. inline works well in weed i find, if you want to dump the lead tehn i use the drop off inline set up.

do you mean youve already put the run rig rubber(buffer bead) on the main line ??? from scratch it should go ...lead, bead then swivel/quick clip......then its just a case of adding the hook link......unless you want a flying back lead,if its not a quick change back lead then add that 1st other wise it can be attached or taken off any time without breaking it all down

thats interesting zander, looking at it i think the could be a possibity of the hook getting spun back and missing the chance to get a hold..........defintitly think if it was tubing and not a ring lining the hair up that would be the case. a few years back i did realy well on full IQ(not soft) rigs, including hair and my thinking was that once it was in the boom effect made it hard for it to be ejected,they would need to back off rather than blow it out. that be said ,any rig the angler has confidence in will always work.

you could tie a loop with with an over hand knot ,at the lenght you want the hair plus about 5mm,then cut a 5mm lenght of shrink tube(you can you just tubing ) then thread the loop through the tube ,then making sure the knot end will sit up near the eye,thread it over the point and up the shank of the hook, once steamed its nice and tidy,if you use shrink tube you can trap the knot inside making things even tidier.or if just tubing make sure the knot is above and cant slide through. with this trick it makes replacing a hair on a old(sharp ) rig easy,just cut off the old hair and do as above. you can tie on the hair but depending on the size of the eye and diametre of hook link sometimes it fiddly to poke the braid through the eye

it would be down to the knot more than the hook i think im guessing it the knotless knot causing the problem you could add the line agliner or try the snell knot

a sharpe one. all the shapes and sizes are meant for the same thing,then id use a rig and bait that got the best out of the hook pattern