salokcinnodrog

No, the hooklink material sounds like a piece of junk I refuse to use Hybrid after I saw a mate have it fail a number of times, no reason, just gave way at the (recommended) knot to swivel or quicklink or the hook. Korda claim that they have sorted the problem, but I just won't use it, especially as many others have said the same thing, and even DF has said that he has had problems with people returning it. The hooklink materials I use are Kryston Mantis, Merlin, Snakebite, Jackal, SuperSilk (not recently) and Amnesia. I have never had any of them fail, so I have NO need to try anything else Each of them works with the "improved" loop knot shown in the Kryston packing and/or the Uni knot. With the improved loop knot though, be aware that even the layered coating of the coated braids will eventually start to break and come away

The Palomar is one of the few knots that is 100% efficient, but the blood knot is pretty bad in terms of breakage and efficiency in many hooklink materials or mainlines. It is a strangulation knot, and can cut through itself when under pressure. The blood knot is the first knot I used when tying hooks and swivels to mono, and even as a child I used to notice the occasional unexplained breakage from it. Also for tying hooks on it is NOT as tidy as a Uni knot or even knotless or whipping knot, especially if you use the hooklink as a continuation to form the hair. The only material I feel comfortable using a blood knot on is Amnesia for my marker rod boom and leader, although it is rated best for some fluorocarbons, but do lighter blob the tag end to stop it pulling through With a Uni knot in mono or coated and uncoated braids I have not had a breakage unless I have had to pull for a break. In fact I have actually had the combi link knot or braid break before the swivel loop knot in Amnesia.

North Met Pit is a Lea Valley lake, and as far as I'm aware is very difficult to get a ticket on as it is nearly always fully subscribed. The fish are BIG, but as I say getting hold of a ticket is the hard part and the fishing even harder. £165 for a Day and Night ticket from memory I don't know about much Bowyers though, although it is also an SSSI and again, you have a waiting list.

What is the hooklink material? Fluorocarbons work better with other knots to those that work with mono, braids or coated braids Since I rarely or even never use fluoros I nearly always use the Uni knot for all my fishing to swivels

Somebody hold me back Just keep it simple, it isn't about rigs, its about location, getting the carp feeding and then putting a standard rig where they will feel comfortable taking it. A whole thread on rigs: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=22185

I knew that there was a reason I dislike lead clips. They do NOT give the best answer to fishing, yet down to over marketing they are seen as the be all and end all. It can be a lead clip that due to angler error (not even intentionally), the tail rubber being pushed on a tad too far, the lug not being trimmed back, or the clip itself becoming jammed with weed, and the fish is being played with half a ton of weed, and a lead that is halfway up the line, leading to the whole lot being lost. I much prefer Inline set-ups in weed; Very little weed actually hangs up on an Inline Distance lead, instead masking the hook or fish on the retrieve, making it a whole lot easier to get everything in. The other option is to go to a set-up that is GUARANTEED to lose the lead, not what is sold as being likely to lose it. Attach the lead to a John Roberts bead semi- fixed onto the mainline to hooklink swivel with a paperclip or tie the lead on with a piece of 3 or 4lb mono, or use the proper clips provided and cut the lug at the (mainline side) top so that the lead can be ejected. These clips while not being designed exclusively as the current Lead clips are, worked well and anglers KNEW that they would have to adapt them.

Mainline straight through? Works for me http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=32598

Taverham Mills used to have some cracking fish in from singles up to 30lbs, although I know that at least one of the 30's got ottered Never forget your floaters in summer, in certain areas during the day or early evening they are extremely confident in taking them. Stalking can work well in certain swims as well. The lake has plenty of gravel bars, weed, lilies, silty patches for long and short range fishing. DON'T ignore the margins. Working from Peg1 round to the left. Peg1-3 itself, in between the trees and past the small islands, not a particularly good area in summer for some reason, the fish move past it, but don't feed confidently, yet in winter is one of the best areas on the lake. Peg 4/5 an area where the fish would cruise around the islands and in the island bay. Road Bank, plenty of gravel in front of you, and a couple of islands. If you cast to the islands around pegs9-10 be very careful, the branches come along way away from the island underwater, fish have been tethered by idiots casting or boating baits too close. The last swim on the road bank in the bay has a deep hole in which I'm pretty positive has a nice inlet spring in. The Point, between the 2 islands, can produce, but is patchy. From the next bay with the pipe connecting to Costessey, an area where the fish can hole up, but fishes best when water is beng pumped in. All the pegs along the bank can produce down to what is number 29 or 30, the last before an area we called "The Backwaters", and all have plenty of gravel or island features in front of them as well as loads of weed. The Backwaters themselves are good for stalking and floater fishing. By being really quiet, you can sneak up on the fish, and they do come in close, but when I say quiet, I mean silent, no vibration whatsoever Onto the Plateau Point, the swim to the right of the main Plateau swim has long produced fish from the far bank corner to the right or under the overhanging tree in front. The Plateau swim, a BIG double swim, but although the fish do go over the plateau, it can be difficult, and if the water level is low, you will be fishing in water which may only just cover your ankles. Carrying on round you have what are known as "The Tench Swims", the 3 or 4 swims with the last in the corner. The 2nd and 3rd from that corner have the remains of a WW2 Bomber in, so can be a bit snaggy as well as having loads of lilies in front. Onto the Cowtail you have the swims on the island, the fish actually are catchable between the island and the main bank, and towards the Plateau is a very big silt patch, that used to hold LARGE bream to over Double figures. Round the Cowtail you have the same water as the Back Bank, and is a shorter walk is worthwhile if no-one is fishing the back bank. Cowtail corner, to the tree in the water along the island to the left. To the right you have a large gravel bank along the island, but it doesn't produce much. The left side of the swim is the better option. To the left the next 3 swims all face to the island, as does CowTail point down the slope, but the point also has water to the left. All will produce at times. The other swim down the slope to the left of the point has a number of nice features. Round into the bay, a couple of swims on the high bank, don't ignore them and fish the margins. Hidden in that bay is a large rock standing proud of the lakebed, it will take a lot of finding (unless you can get a rowing boat out and actually see it). The swim at the back of the bay, margins and fallen tree to the right, lily pad in front. Swim in the corner is pretty much a cut-off. Round onto the meadow swims, all produce fish, and there is plenty of weed. I don't know the lake at all, not much anyway I used to fish (live on) there, but I haven't been back for 8years as I feel it couldn't live up to how I learnt to fish it

It is not all down to lead size or test curve of the rod. A good casting technique, a 2.25lb TC rod with the right size reel, 2.5 or 3oz lead, 8lb line and a shockleader can put a bait well over 100metres. What do you currently have in terms of gear? A cheap or budget 3lb rod may not cast as well as a good quality (admittedly more expensive) manufactured 2.75 or even 2.5lb TC rod I can make a tangle free rig (guaranteed) with no tubing for long distance casting, and that is using a long or short braided hooklink, with either a Helicopter style set-up, or Pendant, Running or Semi-Fixed.

Mono Mainline is extremely unlikely to damage a fish while playing it. The only real reasons to use tubing is to prevent tangles and to provide some protection against rubbing on gravel bars and snags. If you can get away without using it then don't. If you are using it to prevent tangles then about 5cms longer than your rig works.

Here is something for you with fluorocarbon: When fluoro is fished over gravel then the reflection of light back from the bottom can make it glow (re Rob Hughes Carpology and Ian Russel lakebed test), yet over weed it does not reflect back that light. I had a feeling a few years ago that this was the case and so it may affect results. ( http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=25537&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=25 And before I started avoiding leadcore totally: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=16818&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=75

As in tie a knot in it

Simples You actually reduce the risk of one of your problems as well Find a knot that you are comfortable tying in fluorocarbon, and tie the hook on properly. Then using the fine piece of braid tie a hair onto the eye of the hook, maybe using a small piece of tubing to position the perfect exit point from the hook, shank or bend dependant on what you want (the back of the shank gives better hooking potential re Andy Little). You can cover the hookeye and knots with either shrink tubing or fine silicon tubing. My comment about the reducing a potential problem, the out turn on many eyes means that with a knotless knot it has a weakspot that the rubbing of the hook may eventually cause to break. Also if you do find that with a knotless knot, then actually coming out of the back of the eye with the knotless knot reduces both the overturning and reduces the risk of the rubbing breaking the hooklink.

In the Rig Tying Stickies section there are some rig pics, on that thread I have attached a picture of the Kryston Loop knot http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=22185

The rubber hook beads work best when stopping the ring from sliding down to the hookpoint and bend The extra ring on the hook is to stop the doubled over length pulling back on itself and going through the eye if the eye is slightly open at the join as well as it getting caught in the eye as Zander said I think you will find. I very rarely create a join on a hooklink other than combi-rigs, where I want a stiff boom section and a braided hooksection. Play with the lengths for it to work best. I know Moorsey swears blind with a short braided section, about the length of the hookshank (ask him, its his thinking ), whereas I prefer a longer section, between 3 and 5cms long tied to Amnesia. I also use mostly bottom baits or snowman set-ups, so I think that the section tied to swivel or ring in the middle is more suitable for pop-ups (MY thinking) Of course you could make life a whole lot simpler and simply make a hinge in a coated braid Plastic Child safe scissors cut the plastic coating of a braid fairly easily so you don't have to strip it totally

Ok, so you are fishing over a pretty standard bottom, either silt with a few sticks, leaves and twigs, or a gravel bar. On the silty patch you gradually pull back to straighten the hooklink, and as it straightens you pull the hookpoint into a twig or leaf on the lakebed. Or on the gravel patch that you are fishing you pull the hooklink straight, and as you do so you pull the lead and it moves the hook taking the point off the hook as it rubs against stones. Also when you straighten or tweak the rig back, how far do you actually move it? Simon Crow and Rob Hughes actually checked how much movement there was on just tightening down by hand. In some cases the lead was moved by as much as 30centimetres from the point of impact on the lakebed. Far enough to pull it into weed or off your feature. Or another example; You gradually reel down to feel the lead, which is tight on the bottom, either slightly plugged in silt, or tight to a stone. You add a little extra effort to move it, and the lead just pops free, and moves further than you think as it is then effectively on a piece of elastic. That movement could take it away from the "right" spot. Feathering the cast does NOT necessarily straighten the hooklink out. Read my previous post , you CANNOT make a light hooklink fall faster through water than the lead The hooklink will fall around the lead unless it is stiff and pushed away from the lead someway

Why worry about it? A braided rig to me works on the fact that it is not straightened, and is close to the lead. It allows the fish more movement with the hook and bait in the mouth, a straightened hooklink is almost relying on the fish trying to move away to hook itself As Andy says, when casting feather it down near contact and the hooklink "slides" past the lead and enters the water. No matter what though, as the lead falls faster through the water the hooklink will fall around it. Its not tangling in most cases until you pick the lead up on reeling in. If you want to slow the fall of the hook and link through the water then use a nugget of dissolving foam If you do want it straighter then use a Stick mix. I'm happy with a big stringer of baits around the hook bait and it is "tied " onto the hook and the tubing above the lead. Alternatively you could always go to combi rigs with just a short supple section near the hook and a stiffer boom from the lead end (Ask Moorsey about his Combi Link that works for him, mine is a bit different)

Plese read VERY CAREFULLY: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=31393

Aldeby Hall Fruit Farm Lakes, Beccles 5 small Pits: Otter - Crossing Water - Long Water - Round Water - Bridge Water . Good treelined woody mixed fishery with variety of stocks and carp to 28lb plus. Depths between 2 and 8 feet, and the water is normally well coloured. Wooden Stagings in all swims which cater for Disabled Anglers Tickets from:Paul Gibbs - 01502 678121 1 rod £6 2 rods £9 3 rods £12 8am to 8 am includes night. The lakes can be found on the A143 about a mile on the way to Aldeby. Barford Lakes Fishery, Barford There are four lakes at the main Barford Lakes Complex (which includes the Training Lake). Barford Pleasure Lake, 35 pegs, Top Lake, 15/16 swims, Training Lake, 7 swims and the Match only Match Lake. Depths Range from 6 to 15feet deep. Carp are the Main species up to 20lb, although other species are present. Some of the lakes and pegs are suitable for Disabled Anglers Contact: Barford Lakes and Tackle Shop, Chapel Street, Barford, Norwich, Norfolk NR9 4BJ Tel: 01603 759624 Email: sarah@barfordlakes.co.uk Route: From Norwich follow the A47 towards Dereham, then take the B1108 towards Watton, then follow the signs to Barford. After entering Barford on the B1108 you will see a pub called The Cock Inn and there is a Fiat garage opposite. Take the road opposite the pub which is Cock Street. Continue to the end and turn right at the T-junction and carry on through the village for about a quarter of a mile. You will then notice that on the right hand side the road is lined with oak trees. Keep looking to the right and you will see our 300-yard gravel driveway, signed Barford Lakes. Bawburgh Lake Norwich This 12 acre Gravel Pit varies in depth between 2 and 18 feet, offering a variety of shallow plateaux and deep gullies. The Carp are well into 20lb mark, as well as other species. This is a Members only water of the Norfolk Anglers Consultative Association. Route: From Norwich take the Dereham Road towards Bowthorpe, and turn left at the Bowthorpe Roundabout. Turn Right at the Traffic lights and proceed to the mini roundabout, take the right turn down the narrow Bawburgh Road. Bawburgh Lake is on the right of the track. Blickling Lake Blickling near Aylsham, North Norfolk. Set in the grounds of Blickling Hall, owned by the National Trust. This open water of over 20 acres is shallow and weedy at the hall end. Depths vary from 6ft to 10ft at dam wall end.Mixed Fishery with Bream, Roach, Tench and Carp to Double Figures. No night fishing.TICKETS:£3.50 on the bank.CONTACT:01263 734181 Booton Clay Pit, Booton This triangular tree surrounded pit is about 4 acres. There are beds of reeds topping the shallow bars. Carp run to over 30lb Contact: Cawston Angling Club Route: From Norwich take the road to Reepham. Just before Reepham village take the road to Haveringland and Buxton. The pit is on the left after about one and a half miles, well hidden by a hedge of Tall Trees. Common Charity Lakes, Lenwade Situated on Lenwade Common these Lakes are controlled by Great Witchingham Fuel Allotment Charity, and comprise 3 lakes between 2 and 5 acres. Depths vary betweem 5 and 15 feet and the water is usually very clear. There are other species as well as Carp to 20lb+. Route: From Norwich take the A1067 Fakenham road into Lenwade and then take the first left after the Village Bakery and Butchers shop. This leads directly to the fishery and Car Park. Cobbleacre Lake, Hevingham Norwich This is a complex of 3 gravel and Claypits varying in size between 3 1/2 acres and 1/4 acre. The Largest lake varies in depth from 4 to 12 feet with carp to over 25lb. The other 2 are more General Coarse fisheries. Route: From Norwich take the B1149 Holt Roadpassing through Horsford. 3/4 of a mile past the Shorthorm Crossroads turn right alongside the woodyard down Brick Kiln Road. The entrance to the lakes is on the right past Baileys Barn Costessey Pits No2 and 3, Costessey Owned by Anglian Water, these 2 pits are known as the Ski Pit (No2), where Water Skiing takes place and the Carp Lake (No3). No2 is approximately 15acres and has depths between 8 and 12 feet. The water is usually well coloured and has Carp to over 30lb as well as other species. Level swims are provided for Wheelchair anglers near the Main Car Park. Day and Season Tickets are available from Anglian Water Office at Taverham Mills. No3 covers 6 acres and averages over 10 feet deep. The swims are cut in woodland around the margins of the lake. The Carp go to over 40lb. There is a Syndicate on this lake. Contact for both waters: Anglian Water 01603 861014. Route: From Norwich take the Dereham Road towards the Norfolk Showground. At the Roundhouse pub turn right into Longwater Lane. At the end by the school turn left and then take the next right turn towards Taverham. The Lakes are then on the right. Cranworth/Woodrising Water Meadows This 2 acre man made lake has 2 islands and is shaped like a figure of eight. Depths vary from 2-10feet and the water is well coloured. There is a prolific stock of Carp to over 20lbs. Crayfish are also present in the water. Caravanners and Camp site is also available. Route: From Norwich take the B1108 Watton road to Hingham, just beyond the village look out on the right for the road to Shipden, follow the Cranworth signs and the lake is near to Jubilee farm on the right. Felmingham Mill LAKES, Aylsham. Three lakes, depths vary from 3 to 10 feet and contain good stocks of Roach, Tench, Crucian Carp and some double figure Carp to 15lb Day Ticket £3.50 and OAP £2.00 Tel. 01263 735106 Northfield Lakes (formerly Holmans Pits), Southery Two well established oval shaped Clay Pits of around 1 and 11/2 acres. Depths vary between 2 and 7 feet. Carp to over 20lb and other species. Day Tickets. Contact Tel 01366 377551 Route: From Downham Market take the A10 towards Ely for around 5miles and then turn into Southery on the B1386. Entrance to the lakes is the second farm turning on the left Home Lake, Aylsham Natural spring fed lake, 30 well laid out swims, sheltered. Carp to 32 lb, high average size (20+). Taswood Lakes This venue is a collection of 5 lakes, Heron, Broadwing and Spring Lakes all contain some nice carp but Broadwing contains probably the largest of the carp including all the strains mirror's, common's and some great grass carp. All the lakes contain large grass carp so for anyone seeking a big grassie the perhaps is no better place to have a go than this venue Route: From Norwich take the A140 to Newton Flotman, then the right turn to Flordon. After about a mile and a half take the left turn to Tasburgh, the lakes are on the left. Taverham Mills Lake, Taverham Controlled by Anglian Water This beautiful 20acre Lake is almost completely Tree lined, and has extensive Lily Beds. The depths range from 3 feet down to 15foot. As well as Tench and Bream to Double figure there are Carp to over 30lb. Tickets are available from the Fishery Lodge/ Tackle Shop on site. Facilities include Holiday Lodges, Tackle Shop and Toilet. There are both Season and Day Tickets available. Contact: Anglian Water Tel 01603 861014. www.taverham-mill.com Route: from Norwich take the A1067 Fakenham Road into Drayton, and turn left immediately after the Petrol Station. Follow this road into Taverham until you reach the Crossroads. The Fishery is then on the left right next to the Prepatory School at the end of a long drive. Thompson Water, near Merton, Norwich This huge reed lined lake of over 30acres is for the most part between 2 and 5 feet deep, although there are holes to over 10 feet deep. As well as Carp to over 20lbs there are other species. Contact: Tel: 01953 883370 Route: From Norwich, take the B1108 Watton Road into Watton, then the B1110 road into Merton and through into Thompson Village. Turn down Marlpit Lane on the rightand carry on down to the unmade Peddars way (Roman Road), and the lake is on the left. University Broad Lake Norwich This 10 acre Gravel Pit is the only large fishable stillwater actually inside the City Boundary of Norwich. Depths range from 4 to 20 feet, with deep water around much of the margins. As well as Rudd, roach, Tench and Bream, there are Carp to over 20lb. This Lake is controlled by the University of East Anglia, and is Members Only. Contact: Mr. Paul Fountain, Finance Division, The Registry,University of East Anglia, Norwich, Norfolk, NR4 7TJ http://www.uea.ac.uk/~e419/ueasaac/welcome.html Route: Take the B1108 Watton Roadfrom the Centre of Norwich and then turn left into Bluebell road in Earlham Village. The University and the Broad can be seen in the Yare valley on the right. Waveney Valley Lakes Wortwell This complex is probably the best stocked group of Carp Fisheries in East Anglia. Heartsmere, Yew Tree, Marsh Lake, and the Alphabetically named lakes. Depths range from 3 to 12 feet deep over the complex. Many of the Lakes contain Carp to over 30lb. On site there are full facilities, Tackle shop, showers, toilets etc. There are Caravans to hire as well as Day Ticket Lakes. Route: From Norwich take the A140. After Long Stratton take the left turn to Pulham Market, continue along this road, the B1134into Harleston, and then take the road into Wortwell village. The Lakes are well signposted and in the centre of Wortwell on the right. Wensum Fisheries, Costessey Four well established old gravel working lakes in the Wensum Valley, varying in size between 2 and 10 acres, with depths to 14 feet. Clear Water Lake and Rainbow Pool hold Carp amongst other species. This fishery is controlled by Norwich and District Angling Association. Route: Take the Dereham Road from Norwich City Centre until the Roundhouse Public House and Longwater Lane on the right. Follow the road to the end and turn left, then take the next right towards Taverham. The Lakes entrance is on the right, actually between the entrances to Costessey No2 and No3 Pits. I do have a list of other venues, if anyone would like to PM with updated contact information etc I look forward to adding it to these: Wallnut Tree Farm Pool Attleborough Blickling Lake Aylsham Stonegate Lake Aylsham Felmingham Mill Lake Aylsham Home Lake Aylsham Little Lake Land Bungay Chapel Road Lake Cromer Granary Lakes Dereham Dereham Tatts Pit Downham Market Fakenham Willsmore Water Fakenham Gimmingham Lakes Gimmingham Great Melton Reservoir Great Melton Pentney Carp Lakes Kings Lynn Tottenhill Pit Kings Lynn Fosters End Pit Kings Lynn Wood Lakes Kings Lynn West Lexham Moat Kings Lynn Marlingford Mere Norwich Shallow Brook Carp Lake Norwich Reepham Fisheries Norwich Ringland Lakes Norwich Lyng Easthaugh Pits Norwich Bramley Lake Norwich Felthorpe Lakes Norwich Haveringland Lake Norwich Bridge Lake Norwich Abbey Waters - Buckenham Norwich Ling Gravel Works Norwich Bedingham Pit Pit Shippham Geens Pit Snetterton Chiswick Pit Stow Bardolph Little Dunham Carp Lakes Swaffham Bradmoor Lakes Swaffham Billingford Pit Swanton Scottow Pond Swanton Abbot Nunnery Lakes Thetford Highfield Fisheries Thorpe Abbots Holkham Hall Lake Wells-next-the-sea Beeston Lake Wroxham Hoveton Hall Lake

Way to get a rough estimate is to tie a length of wool from the (marker) lead back up the mainline and leave it out for a few minutes. It will be at an angle as you tighten down the line, but should be enough to work with. Running leads and softer more supple hooklinks for me every time. I don't like using Helicopter set-ups unless I absolutely have to.

Do me a favour, turn the CAPS lock off. It is seen as shouting on a Chat room/Forum. If you look at the venues mentioned in Bowza's post, go to the search facility, and type in the names he has posted. You may find information on each water, possibly with what you are after.

You probably didn't get a reply because you were so specific with ESP tube on the other thread. It can take a few days for someone who has the particular information you asked to get onto the forum. Even your headline question on this thread is misleading,, it is only because I usually read EVERY post that I even bothered reading this thread at all The best Shrink tube is NOT bought from a Tackle shop at all! Go into Maplins and have a look at the 1.4mm, or go to Mo's Co on e-bay or and have a look at the shrink tube he sells. In my view those are the best and I do use B175's, but very rarely use shrink tube on them

The last few posts on this thread: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?p=482770#482770

I had a quick search for a pic of the Anchor rig on t'interweb, but unfortunately I can't find one. From Memory there is a published picture in a Tim Paisley book, To Catch a Carp, it is in the Frank Warwick rig section chapter. As you tie the rig using a line aligner or piece of tubing over the eye of the hook you push a stiff piece of mono through the tubing at 90degrees to the eye of the hook so it goes from side to side. This piece of mono (bristle) then forms an anchor shape that helps prevent the rig being ejected. (in theory) There is also another with a bristle used to prevent ejection, it extends beyond the hair at the base of the shank, and is basically like that "hair in the mouth with food" that you are constantly trying to split the 2 up with your tongue I can think of a number of rigs that look rubbish in my hand, but hook very effectively. As Dan says, it is NOT how they work in the hand, but how they hook the carp, hopefully causing minimal damage. I CAN'T comment on the effectiveness or any potential damage of the Anchor or Bristle rig as I have honestly never used them.

Graviers, and Lac De Curton (Rainbow) have definitely been advertised either on forums, in magazines or even in Books. In fact if I remember rightly, Nutrabaits did a Video filmed at Rainbow years ago, advertising the lake and showing a session fishing. Graviers, Bill Cottam mentions the lake a number of times in his book, so to say that they are not advertised is incorrect. In the first place I am pretty positive that advertising space WAS paid for The main 3 lakes mentioned are full because of the "Biggest is Best" approach by some anglers, and some genuinely go to those lakes for the challenge. I don't think that Fishing in France was chosen by all because the fishing is Better or bigger, but to many anglers as a holiday experience. Each angler will have his own reasons as to what makes the lake they fish as the best. To some it may be the numbers of fish, and in others the chance of the size of the fish, or maybe it is simply the holiday and the food package and being made to feel welcome. The numbers of anglers who go to other lakes in France is also high. I am willing to bet that many still go to St Cassien, Lac Du Der, Orient or Chantecoq, and these fisheries have very little advertising, (public fisheries(?). The anglers generally go for the challenge of these lakes. For many years Richardf refused to allow advertising or blatant plugging of fisheries, links were removed (Mrs_Rusheslake even by anglers who fished), and basically there were no commercial posts of any form. Those who advertise on this forum have been pretty much handpicked; many were asked, some lakes refused to advertise, some wanted to advertise, and some were refused by the site owner. Many hours of research were carried out by Richard and others, so that those who advertise were felt to be offering a genuine package that was able to appeal and fulfil their blurb.