salokcinnodrog

DON'T Ever have a swivel attaching the leadcore to the mainline, and really best NOT to use leadcore. Have a read: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=22185 http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=36456 http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=51296 If you don't need to complicate things with a Combi-rig, then don't bother, a standard straight hooklink will catch plenty.

Line through a Tail Rubber, and with the plastic peg going through the inside of an inline lead push the tail rubber over the top of the plastic peg (if worried about line damage a piece of shrink tubing shrunk over the peg will provide protection), and tie the mainline to your hooklink swivel. Then push a rubber tulip bead over the swivel knot and inside the base of the inline lead. The line goes outside the lead, which will pop off if snagged. Far safer than ever using leadcore on an inline set-up, which because it will always trail behind the rig in the event of a snap-off is NOT safe!

Definitely NOT the Korda ones! In my humble view they are probably the worst lead clips on the market, and I don't like lead clips at all unless I positively have to use them. You should have: mainline to swivel with free running run ring or (fixed in terms of so the lead can come off) lead clip, swivel knotted to hooklink or attached to quick link, quick link to hooklink.

Thread moved to correct section. Is this any use? http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=33587 http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=22185

An old thread back up to the top How much do magazines and the fashion rigs actually work in our fishing.? Does using a KD rig really make that much difference over our standard knotless knotted? Come to that, could a line aligner actually work when we may be losing or not even hooking fish on a knotless knotted rig? Is switching to a KD rig the natural answer to that knotless knotted rig "failing"? How many people do think about changing the hair length, the rig length, or even how we feed the swim? Those things may totally change the effectiveness of a rig for the better (or worse). The "standard" hair rig was adapted by Rod Hutchinson and Roger Smith; Hutchys Sliding or Extending hair and Roger Smiths D-rig, both progressions from their fishing at the time. Strange we still use the D-rig (always capitalised due to the "shape" of the hair attachment), yet the sliding hair is almost forgotten in the annals of history. Often we change rigs for the sake of change, or fashion, we don't necessarily take the next progression of adaptation from what we already have. Its all well and good asking what rig to use, on a forum, or reading the answers in a magazine, but they don't give or cover OUR circumstances, we need to experiment ourselves. As anglers fishing we need to have an understanding or natural ability to play with mechanics, as simple as using a line aligner over a knotless knot, and as easy as changing the hair length

DON'T shout And secondly, LOOK: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=41949

As a man that has overcast in to many a snag, the best thing I can recommend to do is to point the rod directly towards the snag, tighten up the clutch and walk backwards keeping the rod in line until the hooklink or line breaks (or you pull in the tree your attached to). It should go at one of the knots, worse case at the reel, but your rod should stay in one piece. Be careful of flying leads/feeders heading back your way though! Wrap a towel or rag around your wrist and grab the line just beyond the rod tip, that way you avoid breaking off at the reel, the worst place it can go. When you do it this way you tend to break the mainline at the hooklink/mainline join

Read it carefully, and so as to make my point clear, I have boldened my reason for using it: No leadcore is safe, especially when you fish it with inline or pendant set-ups. The leadcore in those type of set-ups will ALWAYS trail behind the hooklink, there is NO WAY that the leadcore can be ejected. It is enough weight to hold a hook in and it only takes as little as 15cms, or 6inches, to be able to snag up on a branch, twig or weedbed.

Nick, I value your help and advice on here above many others, as from reading through many of your posts you always have valid points to your discussions as well as doing plenty of research and tests to find facts to back them up... recently I have been drawn towards the leadcore leader for its pinning properties,. however for many reasons I'd prefer to keep away from it, one being that I like my hooklink to be the weaker link than the mainline so if in the event of a lost fish, it'll only be trailing maximum of 18" of line and no lead (all though I do use running rigs mostly and semi fixed rigs using tulip beads when method feeding etc so they're safe regardless of where the line breaks.) I would like my hooklink, line and rig to be as inconspicuous as possible and yet pinned to the bottom as well as possible to stop spooking fish, so I'm guessing that a flurocarbon hooklink would be best? would I benefit from using a flurocarbon leader for the duration my line would trail through the baited area to help keep it as hidden as possible, or benifit more from having a flourocarbon mainline all the way through to reduce the number of knots in my line? how would be best to pin this to the bottom whilst remaining safe? as bits of putty up the line at intervals would prevent the lead coming free wouldn't it? the world of leaders is new to me as I tend to fish nylon mainline through to a nylon hook link, and all though I have had results on this, I'm hoping to target bigger fish through the winter and into next spring and want to do everything I can to aid in hooking the more cautious lumps. so my question to someone who is of far greater experience than myself is, do you have any advice on how I can create an inconspicuous, strong rig that will pin nicely to the bottom yet remain safe? are there any mainline and/or hooklink materials you have found better than most for this you could advise me on? I am asking because I have recently been fishing with whatever I've had knocking around in my dads old tackle box, but I am hoping to join a syndicate next season, and will be getting a new tacklebox and filling it all with new tackle, and as I've been out of the loop so to speak for a fair while what is on the market now is quite daunting and confusing and the mags don't really portray anything safe, and are mainly one large, continuous advert!! I'm asking you because I know you value fish safety above all else and have tried and tested many items out there, and the main reason is you are unbiased! Sorry if this is a long post I'm just a bit lost with it all and thought you the best person I know of to ask No Problem. A few of my tied rigs are in this thread and are basically the white background pictures http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=22185 All of the rigs I have tied in this thread have actually been used for fishing, and all have caught. When it comes to mainline, I use Daiwa Sensor Mono or P-Line Floroclear when I can get hold of it (available in USA and I have had to import it), and fish straight through. I have been using Anti-Tangle tubing over the last 30-45cms of mainline to prevent tangles and provide a bit of protection from snags and gravel, accepting that I will lose a bit of sensitivity with running leads and slack lines. Since I'm not 100% sure on whether the tubing is visible or not, looped or coiled up or not I have been adding a bit of weight to it. (My views on that have changed over time) To keep it down I use a small mouse dropping piece of putty, and shape it so that the putty allows the run ring to slide over it easily. This Running set up is pictured straight on my rods as I was retying rigs after replacing the Mainline. Running Rig with tubing

Paul, Is this any use? http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=32598 I don't want to really get into the whole debate again as I have posted so much about it in the past, but any thread that makes anglers consider what they are doing and fish welfare is always a worthwhile thread. My thoughts are that in most cases there is absolutely no need for a leader unless you are using it for absolute distance casting, and if there are any weed or snags, then bin it, use a safe mainline straight through, and accept that you can't fish as far out. I did start a thread last week about line visibility, so I have a funny feeling that much of what is purported to be true in reducing the visibility of end tackle may actually be a bit of a myth (http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=51785

The line aligner has been covered again in one of the monthlies, Septembers Carpology, and according to palm tests, (which I don't necessarily think are always effective), was the best at grabbing hold and turning in to create good hook pr icking.

Don't know if it is any use to you, but I prefer the knot from the Kryston packing/leaflet. Put the swivel or create the loop and then make an overhand knot (but don't pull tight), take the tag end back through the overhand knot, and wrap around 4 times, then back up through the overhand loop. Now wet the knot and then gradually pull tight. With this knot I find it is soft enough with Kryston coated braids for them to still have some movement without breaking the coating. I also use it for stiff rigs to swivel, where my boom section is Amnesia

Definitely the best. Stood the test of time, so I see no reason to change. I have never had a Kryston braid or coated braid give way on me, and their putty is also the best www.kryston.com

Is this any use? http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=48557 Not the "I don't use Bait floss" bit, but about the knot I use to tie baits on

Try this: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=41949 I refuse to use Glue on any knot I tie, instead relying on tying a good knot. If you consider that Superglue or rig glue are both cyanoacrylates, so essentially the same product. That glue may well strengthen a knot in the immediate short term, but water weakens superglue, in fact one of the reasons that superglue or a medical equivalent is used to replace stitches, so the wound can be glued, and then the glue will weaken and break off as the moisture gets into it. Also that glue will also stop lateral movement on a material. As you play a fish the knot is moving around at the top of the hook eye, swivel or splice. That movement may not appear to be much but if the knot is glued, the knot and line can't move, it may break instead.

Hence my choice for a clear submerged float The bait is well above the float even with only 30cms. I use that short a length so that I can eradicate tangles, any longer and really whacking it out any distance and a longer hooklink can be a right pain to cast. The other thing is that for hooklinks I often use a fluorocarbon hooklink, which sinks, so too long a hooklink may actually drag the hook and bait down. On the occasions I decide to go any longer I've found I need to be casting the hooklink out of a bucket or off the ground or unhooking mat, just don't let the hook snag up when you cast I've done a copy and pste onto the linked thread ealier in the topic

My food bait rigs are the same as my summer rigs, however I do usually tie up some pop-up rigs specifically. In the winter I do tend to use pop-ups more than the summer in an attempt to provoke a reaction and take from the carp when things are hard. I can't afford to lighten the mainline on my current lake, 15lb is needed as the lake is very snaggy. Is this any use? http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=23380

Depends on whether your hookbait is buoyant enough to pull the line through a run ring

Is there anything in this thread for you? http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=34983 On the occasions I use Zig rigs I use a clear Submerged Pike float. So from the mainline I put on the lead on a removable run ring, a rubber bead the submerged pike float and then the hooklink. With a 30centimetre hooklink I can then go up or down in from bottom to top or vice versa increments until hopefully I find the fish. Fox also do an adjustable Zig rig set up

Is this any use? http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?p=355683#355683 It contains links to other hooklink material threads. Personally I still haven't changed much from my recommendations made back then, and the pic in one of the links is of my tackle box, and that still looks pretty much the same Most of my fishing is on gravel and silt areas, where the 2 tend to meet as I think the carp are comfortable feeding in that area. So my combi rig is Amnesia with either SuperNova or Merlin as the final hook section. The addition to my box is Kryston Jackal, which although green has produced fish on gravelly bottoms that do have a coating of silkweed, as has the Combi-rig. Don't confuse yourself with rigs, the knotless knotted or line aligned rigs still produce most of the fish in this country, but magazines tend to promote a particular rig as fashion, and it becomes the latest "must use". Be prepared carp over time can start to eject knotless knotted rigs (as any rig despite what you have been told), and I noticed on a weedy lake they don't always take hold properly, so I switched to a line aligner to correct it with much better results, which worked for me! http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=22185 http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=35896 http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=26640 Have fun with that little lot

For braided or coated braid which is stripped near the hook, after watching some fish manage to eject very easily an "uncovered" knotless knotted hook I switched back to a line aligner, normally using Shrink tube, but it can be just as effective with silicon tube When it comes to very supple mono I may well use silicon tubing to create that line aligner. If I use stiffer hooklinks, then I use tubing to cover the knot, the hook is tied on rather than knotless knotted. I don't believe in the current fashion for a kicker as such, I prefer the line aligner set-up, normally simply following the shank of the hook, its curve or straightness.

No reason why it shouldn't work at all Lead in PVA bag full of crumb, pellets chopped and whole boilies with hook nicked into bag used to work a treat for me. I even used stringers attached to the hook with no problems.

I honestly don't think about how my pop-up rigs face whatever direction. We use camouflaged leads, a hooklink that is neutral or as closely matched as possible, and I don't think a carp knows what a lead is, even if it is uncoated. With pop-ups I tend to use a standard knotless knot rig, although the hookbait is tied on with a uni-knot (tied firs) and bait placed in when making rig up to get bait tight to shank/bend. I have a feeling that most pop-up rigs are picked up, as opposed to being sucked (although open to deliberation and debate), so to watch the bait into the mouth the carp's "attention" is on the hookbait until it loses sight of it in the blind spot is impossible. If they are sucked in, again, all attention will be on bait as it goes towards the mouth, watching for unnatural movement. My counter weight is usually below the hook on the hooklink, and is putty, over either, the end of the coated braid strip or a small power gum stop knot. I think that pop-up rigs have more potential on the thumb test and flipping in to get a hookhold, but I think that most fish are hooked when the carp closes its mouth over and around the bait, which is why possibly you get more top lip or cheek hookholds with pop-ups when they are definitely picking the bait up. Also when it comes to pop-up rigs I have found for me that braided hooklinks are far better than stiffer materials

The acid test is your fishing If you are hooking fish and landing them then the rig is working. Don't follow the hype about having to use a 360 KD D-rig etc, use what works for you. There are many people who advocate the palm test or the thumb test, to test the hooking potential of a rig. Some rigs that hook properly and in the right place I know would fail either of these, yet I have caught many carp on them. What and how you feed, how the carp are feeding all will make or break your rigs efficiency or not.

Years ago I noticed that "naked" line would get sheared through occasionally when playing fish on silt set-ups, so I started playing with a small length of tubing, 2 rubber beads and the swivel on that between the 2. Then Ken Townley I believe it was, mentioned Cox and Rawle Beach Beads for Sea Fishing making a good Helicopter set-up, basically the thing I was working on ready made. It was a removable spigotted bead that would pull apart in the event of a snap-off so that the hooklink could come free, even over a shockleader. They are still available and some Carp Tackle manufacturers produce the same sort of thing now.