salokcinnodrog

Hope that is not my Sliding ring version or I will be causing trouble EDIT: Oh dear, they have overcomplicated the issue and made it slightly more ineffective to my eyes. Adding the rig putty is actually stopping the rig working as effectively, and the "Blowback" version is using the current fashion for Blowback rigs to make it a "seller". I don't suppose you have any idea how long that has been on their website? Just asking, as last year I sent off pics of my version above (with schematics underneath) to CarpTalk with a Catch report.

Is this any use? A leadcore free version: A piece of rigid tubing a soft rubber bead or two (if you want the sliding version), tail rubber ring swivel and quicklink style clip for the lead. The pics and ideas are ages old, so they are NOT my current hook patterns.

I had to do some pics to help somebody out the other day for tying a combi-rig, so I will add them onto here: Cut your braid and stiff section to lengths required. I have used black Amnesia for clarity as clear does not show up particularly well on the scanner Tie an overhand knot in the stiff section, but don't pull tight, and thread the braid through the loop. On the braid tie a Uni knot back down around the stiff section, wet them both and pull tight While you can use a standard knotless knot my current version is along the lines of a sliding/revolving version, so I add on a line aligner (shrink tubing not yet shrunk down) and add on a rig ring with hair and a small stop to stop it.

Near the car park last time I went they had the allowable dates for night fishing every other weekend. I honestly don't know how busy it has been recently, but yes that roped off swim seems to be the first choice. Carp do move all over the lake, I have seen a few down the other end cruising mid water around the brambles. There are also a couple of other swims that give (stalking) access along those margins where the fish do cruise around though, so the roped off area may not always be best. I know that when I was "doing day ticket" lakes, for Trimley I would get the ticket for that weekend and then arrive before first light for that weekend. It would give me time to walk around and listen and look for fish before setting up. I would walk both lakes and decide which I fancied. A number of years ago the bigger fish from the top lake would be put into the bottom lake, but I do know that the top lake does contain carp to over 20lb, as I believe I had the 1st recorded 20 from the top lake. The top lake has a lot more submerged features than the bottom lake

Thread moved to correct section

Try local Tackle shops I'm pretty positive that by Googling "Where to fish in Norfolk and Suffolk" you may find the info on the latest edition, probably http://www.visitnorfolk.co.uk/norfolk/norfolk-angling.aspx or something similar. You could also try WH Smith http://www.whsmith.co.uk/CatalogAndSearch/ProductDetails-The+Definitive+Guide+on+Where+to+Fish+in+Norfolk+and+Suffolk+-9780953185184.html

Very difficult to find a syndicate in the area unless you are recommended! Season and Day Ticket: Taverham Mills, Costessey No.2 Day Ticket (from memory) Shallowbrook; on the corner of the Costessey Road as it goes round the bend into Old Costessey. On Norfolk/Suffolk border you also have the Waveney Complex, Camelot. Head out the other way towards Suffolk down the A11 and you have Swangey, Snetterton and a few smaller waters around Watton in Woodrising/Cranworth, or go along the A47 towards Lyng and you have the various lakes around Great Witchingham and Catch22. Seriously, get hold of the latest Guide to Norfolk and Suffolk Waters

I use it for combi-rigs and stiff links, brilliant stuff. The different colours have different "stiffnesseseses" . The black amnesia is a lot more supple than the clear, green or red It also ties a tidier knot

8 feet of leadcore? Seriously? Yes. 8 feet of leadcore? Seriously? Think someone is JOKING Not joking either. I used to have doubts over using leadcore, like a lot of people do. But i had my choddies set up such a way that the bead would always release if the lead got snagged. Sorry, I am anti Leadcore and many of the reasons why are in this thread: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=32598 It does not take much for the leadcore to kink, and then a lead or bead can get trapped on leadcore, no matter how much pressure you put on the beads CAN get trapped holding the rig in place. I found the pics I mentioned previously on this thread http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=44395&highlight=rubber+bead

There may be some useful info on this thread: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=45767

8 feet of leadcore? Seriously? Think someone is JOKING I had a safe way of using a Silt rig set-up using a piece of rigid tubing ( I did put up pics somewhere): A short length of rigid tubing, ring swivel, 2 rubber beads and/or 1 bead and a tail rubber or stop bead. If you want the rig to be able to slide then put the ring swivel on the tubing and at either end use a rubber bead to hold it. The rig can then slide off the tubing in the event of the fish snagging. If you want it fixed then put the tubing into the tail rubber or stop bead.

Is this any use? http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=33587

By the way, as somebody other than me has pointed out, the Kurvs are almost the same hook as the Centurions, Muggas and an Ashima pattern Yet the Kurvs do NOT hold their point as long as those other patterns.

i'm sorry but that is an unnfair comment to make. The korda wide gape is the most used carp hook on the market,and i haven't yet (touch wood) dropped a fish on a sharp wide gape. i no you are entitled to your opinion but i thought saying they're rubbish is a bit unfair. The most used hook on the market, and many anglers blame other things than a bad hook anyway. I honestly think that Korda hooks are not as good as made out to be. I have used them after persuasion from a friend, and I did lose or even not get fish on them. I'm certain that I had pick-ups with the hooks, but they did not convert into strikable runs. Carp-R-Us Centurions, Kamasan B175's did produce runs from the exact same spot. There are so many people who have been "converted" into Korda Tackle that they won't accept that there is anything wrong with the products, yet in many cases there is, and many anglers won't use them because of that. Go to the "Korda" threads, and for each angler who rates them, there are many who won't. Now when it comes to hook patterns I use those I know work, and after the "missing" fish I will test every pattern to check its performance before I use it in a fishing situation. I have ended up with patterns I'm confident with, B175's, my last few Centurions and Nailers, and Gardner Mugga's.

Glad it suits. It's 2 syndicates on the fishery; Willow Walk, which includes Willow Walk lake, Coates, and Pingrees. Virginia which is Virginia lake (lovely place), Pingrees, Pats, Georges and Reeds, which is really (or was) part of Virginia, but a lot weedier than the main lake. On both syndicates the fish go to over 30. Have fun, whatever you do, say Hi to Ian for me, and also remember he is no fool. He may look very innocent, but if you break the rules and he catches you he will JUMP on you from a great height. He does like his early morning walks, and does not miss much. I used to get regular wake-up calls in the morning, he knew when anglers caught and likes to know what and how. Also he has been known to come out at 1am in a freezing cold February night to do some brilliant pictures for me.

Hit the search button on here for Earith Carp Lakes, I have mentioned them in the past. Also if you google it, you get direct to the webpage, and there is an application/joining form

A question for you... Why do you think that rig tubing is there to prevent lifting scales? You DON'T fish floaters with anti-tangle tubing. I have not lifted or can't remember ever lifting a scale when I fish mainline straight through. The tubing is only used to prevent tangles or to break up the line and prevent it being seen (or felt; vibration, not against the fish). When you fish at any range above about 40metres the line at that range near the end tackle is running along the lakebed anyway

Thanks to Jez, (and others) their hard work in arranging a Social on there, I've been fortunate enough to fish Merrington (once). It really is a nice place to fish in beautiful (but cold) surroundings. If the place is lost to socials because of some idiots it is a sad loss of a lake with some beautiful fish. I have had the pleasure of catching from the lake, and all I can say is it is a lake worthy of the effort. Definitely not all of the fish come from the islands. [edited for grammar NG]

Its a Lea Valley Fishery Fish stocks as yet not totally known, although some are reputed to be LUMPS.

Its not Woody's, I built it Facing up to the back of the islands, the little island on the left, and the big island on the right. A very pressured swim, but the fish do move through the channel between the bank and the island, usually close to the island Rigwise, like I said, KEEP IT SIMPLE, standard hair rig, line aligned, inline or pendant, dependant on where you fish, or whether you prefer to use pop-ups or bottom baits. There is Gravel, silt, weed, lily beds, rocks and tree roots. The main gravel bars are not always the best places to put a bait

No need for the backstop, and most of the time the tubing stays in the bead with no problems. Use a Solar rig "thingimajig (can't remember its proper name ) push the buffer bead onto the metal tube, and then the tubing into the small hole in the thingimajig, and slide the bead back down onto the tubing. Using a large buffer bead or even a rubber tulip bead it grips the hooklink swivel and does not work free.