salokcinnodrog

If I give a full explanation then it seems patronising, yet what you forget is that other people NOT just yourself read threads and opinions, and may need a full answer or explanation. If I had just given a 3 word answer of "Use the Chod" you would have been happy, but it didn't agree with what you wanted to hear. In fact you trying to tell me about how Silt rigs and Chod rig got their name put my back up as I am pretty sure that I probably have a very long memory regarding a vast number of rigs, baits and tackle, in many cases long before some of todays anglers were born. Frank Warwick christened the Chod rig "the Short rig" Just put it this way, I've fished in the 70's, 80's, 90, 00's and now the 10's. Work out how many decades that is! You asked for advice, and I gave you advice and my opinion and some of it from PERSONAL EXPERIENCE! I would totally avoid Helicopter set-ups unless I absolutely have to, and the clue in that personal experience is in this line: 20years ago I was playing around with bomb on the end of the line set-ups and found that that was a fault that they had going against them. It meant that even with 20lb leaders I was losing fish, where even the shockleader was giving way. Then we switched over to that horrible poxy stuff called leadcore, which is something I dislike with a passion after finding out for myself how much of a risk it is in fishing. As for Jim Shelley, then I still honestly don't care, I have had personal contact with him, and sometimes what the great and famous do, is not always the best in terms of fish safety There are other rigs that are effective with a great hooking potential, and many a whole lot easier to set up on a standard lead set-up. Now I fish a water that is very silty; no matter how hard I search I still can't find a hard bit of bottom in the lake, it is very thick (smelly) silt, yet I haven't had to resort to Silt set-ups with the bomb on the end of the line yet, and I have had a fair number of fish out on limited number of sessions.

It wasn't Frank Warwick who christened the short rigs on a helicopter the Silt rig, it was Tim Paisley, shortened from the terminology from "bomb-on-the-end-of-the-line" as he put it "for brevity's sake" The Chod rig terminology came from a conversation between Terry Hearn and Jim Maylin when one asked the other "What's the bottom like out there?" The reply was "its a bit choddy". And Jim Shelley also had to change away from the Silt rig on a number of waters, because it didn't sit right, and wasn't hooking fish Just because someone "famous" does something, it DOES NOT mean that other methods won't work. I use Combi rigs, so I do know how stiffer hooklinks come off the swivel, being as Amnesia is a VERY stiff hooklink material Which is WHY I gave you the picture, so you could see a lead link.

The SILT rig set up (its proper name, NOT Chod, which stands for Claggy Horrible Old Detritus, or something similar), is designed for Silt fishing, NOT in weed, but has been (badly) adapted for any situation (by those who are too lazy to do anything else Actually the hooking ability of a Helicopter set-up is not great, and can be responsible for more lost fish than standard set-ups, some of which since you didn't get any indication you won't even know about. The angle of pull is across the line, so a ring swivel on mainline can weaken the line by rubbing, and then under pressure it breaks, also that angler of pressure can also lead to high numbers of hookpulls. It is something that Tim Paisley wrote about years ago when he was fishing The Mangrove Swamp in Big Carp Summer in his book Big Carp. Just because a lake is silty, or gravel, sand or clay you DON'T have to use a Helicopter/Rotary set-up. You could fish a standard set-up incorporating a semi-fixed or running lead, effectively a paternoster That way using a weak link, you can be sure that the lead will break free if required. Or by using (the only good use for) a Leadcore link, it will pull the lead down into the silt. The lead pulls everything behind it, reducing tangles, and with a flat (pear/bottle) lead, is less likely to sink right into the lakebed. Pictured below in the quotes is the set-up that Derek Ritchie used to land a number of fish in a water he was fishing, and Danny Fairbrass liked it so much he published it in his book The Korda Guide to Rig Making, or something along those lines You can play around with the length of the lead link, and also the breaking strain so that you get it sorted for how you need to fish

Fairlop Waters near Fairlop/Ilford. Dagenham Chase, between Romford and Barking/Dagenham Fairlop have a website which I believe explains rules, whether Day or Season, I can't remember, but I have no idea of fish stocks or sizes. Dagenham Chase was mentioned on here ages ago, may be worth having a dig through the search as I think it is Season Ticket. Obviously as with all of the area, may be worth checking with locals about security and safety on them

I received this message from Ken Townley today. Its something I knew about, but was unable to confirm or deny due to the Laws of Slander and Libel. It was probably an open rumour to be honest anyway.

Fine mono works just as well In fact I tie my snowman baits on with fine mono. Don't confuse yourself with rigs. In most cses a knotless knot rig will work, and is easy to adjust dependant on how the carp are taking. The first thing to look at is your hair length, simply by adjusting that you can get your hookholds in the right place. For my reference I look at where I hook (or lose) carp. If it is right back in the mouth the hair is too long, if I'm getting right at the front of the mouth or losing fish then the hair is too short, in the centre of the bottom lip, perfect. Also how you feed or quantity can change where you are hooking fish. These may offer some help: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=37603 http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=22185

Sure its come up before, but have a look at Lee Valley Fisheries: http://www.visitleevalley.org.uk/en/content/cms/outdoors/angling-fisheries/ Day and Season Ticket lakes, and some very good fishing for whatever you fancy

I made that 34 at a quick count. You have OCD, need serious help and I reckon tablets are the only answer. I know I've got about 25 tied up, and as I use a rig and change it after each fish grab a new one out of the rig bin. When I get home or during my quiet times fishing I tie up a new rig to replace it. A few specific pop-up rigs, and the rest are mostly my "specialised" snowman sliding set-ups for my season ticket water.

It may be a total blanket ban as (mainline) braids are very thin and can cut fish if used straight through or as a hooklink, in fact a few hooklink braids fall into that category if they are so fine; Which is actually the reason why in many cases we fish with a higher breaking strain hooklink than the mainline I.E, 12lb Mainline and 25lb Hooklink If a water has a braided (mainline and hooklink) line ban I am quite happy using mono or fluoro. We all worry about how a hooklink behaves in water. Most rigs work anyway, whether they fall into thumb or palm test as failures. I know a number of big name anglers who use mainline and mono as their hooklinks, Paddy Webb and Lee Jackson fell into this category for a long time. Either use a finer mono for your hair, or continue the hooklink through with the knotless knot. You could simply tie your hook on as opposed to knotless knot, and then use silicon or shrink tubing over the knot. It worked before we had these finer braided hooklinks (Dacron being the first), and will still work today.

Meads is not easy, I know I've been fishing there Put it this way, its not a water I would recommend anyone without much experience go onto; a lot of anglers walk away with their tails between their legs, even on the supposedly easy Brackens pool, which due to its size has been heavily pressured, and specific rules make it a bit more difficult. Tickets are usually fairly easy to come by though, due to the number of dropouts each year. The waiting list for North Met is a case of (I think), fish one of their fisheries first, and then you are likely to get in. There are a number of Day ticket lakes in the area, of which (operated by LV), Banjo is probably the best.

Neither choice is easy, I can guarantee it. Actually I think by just choosing those waters you are limiting yourself as Glen Faba has some good fish in it, but I suppose at 120 acres may seem a tad hard work, but Bowyers also has some big fish. How are you going to split Nazeing as its effectively 3 waters? The North is very difficult with access problems around some of the banks, whereas the South and Central is pretty much one water with continual access, and Brackens is a rather hard 2 acre pool.

From Drayton drive towards Hellesdon up the back road. I'll let you work out where Green Lanes is exactly. Pikewise at Hellesdon Mill I found the mouth of the incoming river Tud better than the Mill pool. I did also manage a number of brown trout from the actual mill pool itself. As for the Carp around the city stretches from Anglian Water to around Dolphin Bridge; SSSHHH!

The carp in the Yare move a LONG way and can be very difficult to find as there is so much water for them to go into. At Thorpe St. Andrew, almost opposite the Girls High school on Yarmouth Road is an housing estate that was built about 20years ago. At the back of that housing estate is (or was) a footbridge across to an old square marina with wooden staging and platforms. Very weedy in the middle, but it was where the carp used to go into spawn when the water warmed up. Those carp have often worked their way down from as far upstream as New Mills Yard on the Wensum, or from as far upstream as they can get on the Yare into the marina. You are really going to have to spend a lot of time hoping, looking and fishing for the carp, but they do go to big weights. I've seen carp sat underneath the staging by The Compleat Angler just sitting sunbathing, and lost a few on the Riverside road area around Carrow Road. As for those bream, they can also do a moving act along the river. Thunder Lane they could be on the bends, or just as easily they could be down by Bramerton/Woods End, or Postwick.

More than 2 types of tubing, as you have also forgotten the joys of plain ordinary silicon tubing that can be used on hooks, often faster and easier than using shrink tube, especially if you are tying up rigs on the bank I also use shrink and silicon tubing on the hooks to create line aligners, which I have confidence in, and although they may be easy, sometimes a standard knotless knotted hook does not catch hold, so the line aligner can be useful. If I can get away with it, I would be quite happy fishing without Anti-Tangle tubing on the mainline, although I'm confident in its use, as a bit of extra protection against snags and gravel rub. http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=22185 http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=35896

There have been carp caught between Costessey and Hellesdon for years Anglian Water Fish Farm was on the mill at Hellesdon, and years ago when the river flooded fish escaped from the farm into the river. Green Lanes used to be the area they sort of holed up, shallows and deeps within a very short section of river. Years ago John Wilson wrote about having 4 bites in an evening, a 2lb roach, a 4 or 5lb chub, a double figure barbel and a double figure carp was the result. I know the exact swim that he took it from as well, although the fallen tree that made up one of the features is no longer there.

http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=46346&highlight=wildmoor+waters Just by posting on a thread brings it back to the top of the section

You're mixed up! A balanced bait rig can be as simple or as complicated as you want to make it. A balanced (2) hookbait can be a snowman hookbait, or you can drill out a boilie and then fill it with foam core, and how much you use, you'll have to play with for each hookbait. You can use a standard knotless knot presentation or you can faff about trying different things, but why make life complicated? http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=50409&highlight=balanced+baits http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=47555&highlight=balanced+baits

I have not fished any lead set-up other than a running lead for over 5years Any use? http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=26640 http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=27479

The snowman is a bit difficult to work out. Sometimes its success may be down to the baits being "lighter" and so possibly more easily sucked in, yet at times, the "wobble" of the bait may get the fish to not accept it. I very rarely fish (overflavoured high visibility) pop-ups at all, I much prefer bottom baits or snowman set-ups, and I may be missing out, but pop-ups can possibly blow and work against you. This thread may also offer some help: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=32834

I know that if we look at rigs in the water, we are (usually) only looking from a margin point of view, and we have carefully laid the rig down. In my case my not switching from braid is because it works for me; I have great confidence in my hooklinks. I know that with the way I set them up they are pretty tangle free, and I want to allow the movement that I feel braid offers over the stiffness of fluorocarbon. You're catching, so what you are currently doing works If you are catching there may well be no reason to change, however, if you are using 2 rods, then try a braided hooklink on one and fluoro on the other, and see which produces most fish. That may mean swapping rods over at times, putting your fluorocarbon hooklink where you have had your braid and vice versa. Compare the results, and get your confidence in what you are doing, preferably with both There probably are times when one material will outfish the other, don't know why, it happens, then all of a sudden it can switch back.

The majority of my braided hooklinks are closer to 30cms long, that is for coated and uncoated braids, come to that for most of my hooklinks all together The rig pic I was thinking of is on this thread: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=42738&highlight=rig+camouflage The most important thing is that you put your rig where the food is, on the silt if the carp feed on, or in it of they dig to get their food, so for that you will have to play with the rig length.

Kryston Heavy Metal. Moulds around absolutely everything and sticks exactly where its put, mono, fluoro, braid coated and uncoated. As for Korda sinkers on pop-ups, I just use small olivettes for pole fishing if it is a very buoyant pop-up, or I want an overweighted bait

Not just Adrenaline, the majority of monos take a lot of time to rest on the lakebed, even if they are described as sinking. It is not until they have taken on water that they eventually settle; part of the reason that it can take so long to get a mono line to sink to the lakebed when fishing running leads and slack line. Sure we may want to have a looped up hooklink, weighted at the lead/mainline end and with the weight of the hook and bait at t'other, but I would much rather have a hooklink that was flat out laying on the lakebed, which even then will take some attention to achieve as most hooklinks do loop up to some extent

Rodney The lake I fish is sometimes very clear, but usually cloudy. When it is clear normally around February to March, the water is so clear you can see the bottom in 15feet of water (and all of the snags if people bothered to look). Even then I still use my coated and stripped braided or combi-rig hooklinks. I do have a picture somewhere of a clear winter margin with a braided rig in it. I know that in the middle of the lake is totally different in terms of what the fish can or can't see, but this margin picture convinced me that sometimes we may try too hard to camouflage everything when we have no need. I'd use fluorocarbon not for its invisible properties, but actually for its different behaviour regarding stiffness and how the fish were taking the bait. Is this any use? http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=33587