salokcinnodrog

I wonder why it has received the name 'chod set-up', as the rotary or helicopter name was about long before the name chod. I've used various type rigs on a helicopter, bomb on the end of the line, rotary or whatever name you want to call it. I've actually used the Withy pool very little as found no need for it, but found that when I did it was fairly tangle free on the standard pendant, and it didn't tangle on the helicopter style. At the end of the day try to keep things as simple as possible, but if being what may be overly complicated works for you then try it.

Mobile pics with Carp.com can be a pain in the butt, but there is a way. Go to photobucket and upload the pics, then when you have done that see if you can copy the image tags and paste each one into a message. Log into Carp.com after copying all the tags, and then as you make the post, you should be able to paste in the tags, although each phone is different, that is how I do it on my old Nokia. As for blanking this week, don't fret about it, the weather has gone cold again, probably put the fish down, and made them difficult to find if they have gone back into their winter hideouts. That is my excuse anyway, as i blanked this week as well

I did try to edit the original post so that your pics show up on post, but for some reason couldn't manage it. The best way I have foun d to put pictures on the site is to have 2 pages open, one set up on Photobucket or your photo host page, and Carp.com post page. Upload your pictures to photobucket, and then go to save and view album. Position your cursor over the picture you want to use, and underneath it will bring up a list of tags, click and copy the tag which starts and ends with the {IMG} code, and then paste it into the carp.com post. That simple knotless knot rig will work and probably catches 95% of the carp caught in the country Also because it is so simple, it is also easy to change, and make different by whatever hooklink material you use; Mono, fluorocarbon, braid, coated braid, all will give different actions and behaviour, and mono and fluoro can be split even further into stiff or lighter breaking strain. I don't know how many times I have written it, but keep things as simple as you can. Location is the important part, then putting the rig in the right place. Complicated is not always best, as I keep proving to myself.

With a buoyant bait at the bend end (ooh er Mrs), attached to the shank or at the base of the bend, and a hair coming from the eye end, you can actually lift the hookpoint above the bottom rubbish, preventing the point being masked on a take. Rod Hutchinson has been mentioned as having published it, but I know that Rob Maylin and Andy Little have both put it in publications, and maybe even Julian Cundiff has said something on those lines. If I remember rightly, one of Hutchy's versions was of a couple of hairs with grains of hemp on them, used when fishing particles (hemp).

I've not been one for PVA sticks, in fact I could count on one finger how many times I have used the method Brackens has some weedy patches, some quite severe, and some not so, and my standard rigs worked on both areas, and nearly all were fished with a stringer. On that water I tended to use either Combi rigs made up using Amnesia and Merlin/Supernova, a loop knot at the hooklink swivel and a line aligned hook on the end of the braid, or my alternative was a coated braid with a stripped back section at the hook end, both were fished with snowman hookbaits. The hooklink was usually about 20 to 30centimetres and attached to a running lead set-up, with the stringer being attached to mainline and hook to prevent tangles. On a weedier water years ago, again I didn't used to bother with a pop-up, but fished a braided hooklink, inline lead, and the whole lot put in a PVA bag; lead, link, hook and bait.

In that case why bother fishing 2 rods?

I've not been down for a couple of years now, although I do know of the occasional fish coming out, but the angler concerned was keeping very much to himself.

Its a pig to cast having a pop-up on a shank/bend mounted hair, and an eye mounted hair bottom bait. I think its called the one up one down rig I used to use it on a water where I could put the end tackle in by hand, and it did work. It worked and hooked a few fish where I had missed some takes on a simple knotless knot rig, but I think it may have worked due to keeping the hook(point) clear of the weed

Yeah i have a few tied up with braid but i always thought ring swivels would work better I'm never sure that swivels work particularly well as we use them in fishing. I don't think that there is a need to be so complicated most of the time, a basic standard pop-up rig will work. If you do need to use a 360, then you will have to use whatever weight it takes to get the hook to sit as you want it.

My thoughts as well. I avoid Korda and other Maggot rings for the same reason. I have removed a few posts, the follow-up comment made about opinions was frankly quite rude and insulting.

Oh, and don't think that Fox Arma mesh is crayfish proof . The little blighters will still cut through the stuff to get to whatever is inside.

A fair while ago Joe (Useph) started this very handy thread: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=32920 A fair amount of the time I put my baits onto a double length of PVA cord or string, and then loop the PVA round the mainline/tubing and then put the tag ends and boilies through the loop. It holds it onto the line nicely with no knots. The tag ends then get used to create another loop which holds the hookbait in place. I then have a line of boilies down the length of the hooklink. Or just as easily I do a number of baits in a mesh, split the PVA down into a length and use the tag ends I have created to tie around the mainline/tubing, without pulling it tight so that the knot doesn't get left around the line. As for bags, I can get long or short ones, and either lick and stick or tie around the line with a double granny. Also make sure you get hold of decent PVA. I still use http://www.moscopva.net/ ; far better PVA than many tackle brands, and at a decent price, cheaper than Korda.

I don't necessarily use all the advice I've been told in the local tackle shop. I'm with James, if I want to provide some protection (more to the mainline than the fish), then I will use tubing. Everything I caught this winter has been on mainline straight through, with no tubing. I used to use tubing almost every time, but after seeing some of Moorsey's results on his plain straight through mainline I thought what the heck, I can convince myself its not needed. Not every piece of advice that you receive or hear of from Big Name anglers is the safest thing you can do, after all, I can think of a couple who advocate long lengths of leadcore. Have Fun reading this little lot: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=25587 http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=32598 http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=39794

Me trying NOT to be sarcastic

No you aren't. It also goes green if you cover it with Kryston Greased Lightning 'Which Bloomin Mainline!': http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=28523 4 pages of ideas and opinions

Line cutting into fish is another load of rubbish spread by the tackle manufacturers. Do you use a leader when you fish zig rigs or floater fishing? I somehow think NOT. Plain straight through mono stands less chance of cutting fish than leadcore, and a leader in weed is an absolute danger that can risk fish beng tethered in the event of a break-off. You are adding another weak spot in your line, that of the knot joining the mainline to the leader, and under pressure is the first place that breaks. With a snapped off leader, if a fish is going round in the weed, it doesn't take much for the rubbish to build up and for the fish to become tethered. As for slack line, considering you were asking about line tension and bobbins on another thread (see I do read ), I know a fair bit about slack line fishing, and it only works effectively with a running lead, which to my mind can only be fished with a pendant lead, not an inline. You can even fish slack lines with a very heavy bobbin, but with the indicator at maximum drop, i.e. the weight does NOT come into play until the fish starts to take line. Note, I do say I use inlines in weed, but for that I resort to a tight line, and stay semi-fixed.

What bobbin would you suggest? Wouldn't want to use a leader in weed. In fact, I would try my hardest to avoid them altogether if possible. I wouldn't use a leader in a water with any weed or snags, and I would prefer NOT to use a lead clip that may or may not discharge the lead if it got caught up. Tie the lead on with a piece of fine line or attach it with a paperclip. The other thing is that a zipp shaped inline lead may also slide through the weed easily without snagging up, and with that fitted breakaway style will likely be very safe. Also can put the whole lot in a bag, hook, bait, hooklink and lead.

Are you looking for a coated or uncoated braid? For years I have stuck to Kryston braids for both, and use Merlin, Supernova, Mantis or Mantis Gold. None have failed, so I see no need to change, although I have recently been looking at Sufix/Gardner braids with a few ideas just in case.

I said this a very long time ago, as I refused to use leadcore, I was practicing the " Naked chod" as it seems to be known, whist most hadnt heard of it . I do not use a top bead, I have never found a reason to use one and I use the lightest leads possible and on small lakes I often use 1/2oz leads. I have been told by "experts"that it wont work!, well I must ONLY fish for suicidle carp. Do you do anything to stop the rig travelling up the line on your cast then beens as though no top bead? Or do you just let it go? Which could mean your rigs 30 - 40ft back from the lead by the time it hits the water Try doubling up a length of PVA string. Then pulling itself through a loop around the mainline. It will hold naked chod beads still. Or use a piece of dissolving foam to create the same effect.

Ian, I'm the same with tying loops on the bank, so tend to tie up a load of pop-ups at home with Sainsbury's basics floss, or even 4lb mono. In my case, it can be quicker to tie (or clip) on a fresh ready baited rig than tying baits on on the bank, so I have a few mega hard meshed hookbaits already on rigs in the rig bins. Tie a Uni knot loop at the end of the floss, and put your pop-up in it. Then with the 2 tag ends tie the pop-up on the bank to your rig ring with a couple of overhand knots, and then lighter blob the tag ends to stop them pulling free. There was another thread on it, http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=48557&highlight=bait+floss although since I wrote that, I have switched back to dental floss as I have been using rig rings and the like for my hairs on a snowman set-up, and floss tends to avoid the little blighters called crays who can cut mono with their claws The other thing I found with meshing baits and tying them on, is that the stocking mesh tends to offer better grip than the perfectly smooth skin of a standard pop-up

As Liam says, go the easy way with with a Pike Float fished next to the hooklink swivel. Or if you want there is a Fox Adjustable Zig Rig kit As for avoiding hooklink tangles with a long hooklink, you could always tie a PVA bag or stringer to the swivel, and nick the hook into the bottom corner of the bag. It doesn't even have to be floating baits either, but an active groundbait that constantly moves from bottom to top and Up and Down, or the floating baits that rise from the lakebed to the surface will give the same impression as your hookbait. It was mentioned in a magazine recently, but I've been doing it for years

I've got 2 rig bins and a rig wallet. The rig wallet contains pop-up rigs, which I can remember every single hook pattern and size, although it is pretty easy to remember B175 I try to keep my rigs as simple as possible, so it is normally a case of seeing D-rig on a size 8, and then what the hooklink is made from. I do have a few hinged pop-up rigs for very buoyant baits, but most are on stripped back coated braid. As for the 2 rig bins, they contain my standard rigs, either on braid coated and uncoated or combi-rigs. I gave up worrying about hook size, and use a size 6 for almost all of my bottom or snowman presentations. When I change a rig I just tie up a batch at any time the same as previous rigs. The rigs are all pretty much the same length as I don't think that rig length matters so much with running leads.

Might be the Domhoff knot? This might explain it: http://www.gofishing.co.uk/Angling-Times/Section/how-to/Coarse-fishing-advice/Fishing-Knots/How-to-tie-the-Domhoff-fishing-knot/

Glad you know I was teasing It does sound like snail if you aren't sure whats being said. Must confess I very rarely use hooks smaller than a size 4, although with pop-ups I do often use a D-rig on a size 8 straight shank hook. I do sometimes use a hinged rig set-up, normally 15lb Amnesia or Preston Reflo Powerline mono and I do a knotless knot then put the ring on the tag end, force that tag back through the eye to create the D, then lighter tag the end to stop it pulling out. For stiff rigs I go back to 15 or 20lb Amnesia, a 2 or 3 turn blood knot and then tie on a supple hair, although I have used it with a KK. I found with the KK and stiff hair I lost a few fish, so switched back to the supple hair, but I wasn't fishing over a bed of bait at the time. Would the Multi Rig hook set-up work for you? Can be used with a coated or uncoated braid.

Snail? Snell knot There is a Knot tying sticky with knot links at the header page of the forum, but this is the Snell knot direct: http://www.animatedknots.com/snell/index.php?Categ=fishing&LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www.animatedknots.com