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Showing content with the highest reputation on 22/06/20 in all areas

  1. Yonnys right, but it’s a simple fix the D on the hook needs to be tighter to the hook eye... I’ve used this rig for the simple fact I find them easier to tie than a chod.
    4 points
  2. yonny

    The very stiff hinged rig

    Nah that's not accurate buddy, just look at the spinner/ronnie - very short and zero stretch. The important bit in shaping the stiff link on a hinge/chod or steaming the shrink tube on a spinner/ronnie is to ensure the shape of the hook is extended. You should be able to draw an imaginary line along the shank and it should continue progressively all the way down to the swivel with no nasty angles or corners. These rigs are basically intended to be an extension of the hooks shank. The one you tied here is almost spot on - that smooth radius from the bend of the hook to the putty is what you're after.
    3 points
  3. Yeah that's what I was thinking, it's essentially a particularly safe 360. A novel idea for sure.
    2 points
  4. It does actually spin like a 360 rig in the water, better than a mini ring swivel and fish that close their mouth over the pop-up get hooked dead set. It doesn't work on 'suckers and blowers'. I think John Claridge was playing with something similar.
    2 points
  5. yonny

    The very stiff hinged rig

    This is why out-turned eyes are generally used for stiff rigs. The gape on Nick's rig is closed far too much (imo) by the standard curve shank.
    2 points
  6. yonny

    The very stiff hinged rig

    What is your thinking here Nick? Why do you think this would give extra movement over a standard swivel? Surely there will be similar friction between the tungsten beads and the mini swivel than there would between the ring and barrel on a standard swivel? In the image above the gape is closed way too much imo. The stiff material is supposed to serve as a sweeping extension of the hook shank, there should not be any right angle between hook and the hook link imo.
    2 points
  7. Hi all, I was considering a switch to sinking braid mainline to get better lead feel down and better bite indication but braid is not allowed on my water. I have been using Gardner GTHD line which is a low stretch mono and I have no problems with is whatsoever. BUT, would a fluorocarbon be the next best thing to braid or should I consider other low stretch monos? I see the technology for fluorocarbons has got better and looking at the Ultima Power Carp lines. Just wondering what peoples thoughts are with my query or if they could make any recommendations? Thanks - Ed
    1 point
  8. I'm using size 4s maybe I need proper shark hooks, they aren't small eyes either, maybe the extreme is just too extreme, will keep having a play though, maybe the non extreme will be better to use, or I can find another use for it, I'm not buying anything else 😂 I already have a few chod filaments and fluoros 😳 maybe next time 😏 That being said the cam h20 that's in the hydrolink is lovely to use just needs bending amd shaping into place,
    1 point
  9. Try Gardner ultra skin stiff for your chod sections and hinge stiffs mate, after steaming there class and work as good as a filament on this rig. You’ve had some good fish lately mate simple and effective you know that 👍
    1 point
  10. If you're using small hooks it's tricky, but wet the end and give it a little twist, it will go. I sometimes struggle getting it through the slim anti tangle sleeves, but it does with a little practice.A thin bait needle can help sometimes
    1 point
  11. Peachy orangey sweet fruity lol I vaped the liquid once it was lovely too
    1 point
  12. I’m intrigued with this version of this rig because I can see potential for a much safer 360, defo a good idea with adjustments.
    1 point
  13. The other thing is it does also work like a Withy pool rig, with the excessive curve, the hard part is making sure you don't use overbuoyant pop-ups. You do really have to trim them down to get it right.
    1 point
  14. I meant on nicks 360 type rig, I'm with you on the hinged one
    1 point
  15. One thing I did notice about stiff part length is that the longer it is (probably to a certain point) , the trickier it was to eject once it pricked, and the more flexibility (in the curved chod link) it had the longer the hook stayed stuck in my hand, I can't really explain what I mean very well but being really stiff from the double strands of the multi rig loop, made it seem like it would be tougher to eject, i think I am trying to say it is more springy if its a bit longer 😳
    1 point
  16. bluelabel

    The very stiff hinged rig

    I always worry that the hook point looks too closed off with those rigs
    1 point
  17. Suddenly got a bit of signal. Under the hook are 2 tungsten beads below a mini swivel. The Gardner Tripwire is overhand looped and lighter bobbed to prevent pulling through. It definitely works😉
    1 point
  18. salokcinnodrog

    Spawning

    The carp can do it again and again, I've seen them go back for more as late as the end of August. They spawn, start building eggs again and if it is warm enough go spawn some more.
    1 point
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