Which 2 do you generally use?

[Andy Hull]

If you had to tie and use just 2 rigs : -

 

1 - Which would they be and why?

2 - What hooklink would you use?

3 - Which hooks?

 

Im asking as after reading another thread it made me re-think a bit about what i need to buy.

I don't want to end up with a box full of "Expensive" hooks and hook link materials that i don't/won't use.

 

Thanks

 

Andy

[yonny]

Clone rig and HSR - because they can be modified to fish effectively over pretty much any substrate.

Rig Marole CAMH2O - because the different breaking strains can be used to construct the above rigs perfectly.

Atomic Chodda/Sabre - because they're the best (read: most reliable) hooks in the world IMO.

 

My +1 hooklink would be ESP Tungsten Loaded coated braid, simply because it's the best coated braid I've come across and it's always handy to have some in the box.

[keeno86]

for me it would have to be the standard knotless knot hair rig for bottom presentation. id use a wide gape hook pattern for this and n trap soft hooklink material, i like to use a kicker or small piece of heat shrink on  this hook as it turns much more aggressively. for my second rig it would have to be Darrel pecks pop up rig, its the most simple pop up rig you can tie (easily found on a google search). for this rig i would use a choddy hook and n trap stiff hooklink material.

 

for me the 2 hooklinks above cover just about any presentation i need to, and tie my other favorite rigs. as for the hooks, the wide gape pattern has landed me more fish than anything else, although i have to say that i have played with the krank hook and im a big fan of that also. as for the choddy hook for pop ups, ive found nothing that sits better. a note on the wide gape, i used korda kaptors first, they very the sharpest hooks ive had straight out of the packet but i did have more than a few bend on me, i now use the wide gape x from korda, ive never had any issues with that hook.

[jh92]

I use a basic hair rig for all my fishing, maybe with abit of shrink tubing. The braid I use for the rigs is sufix sheath skin and for hooks I use korda kurv shank size 8 barbless. I've had great results on all the lakes I fish and it works out really cheap as well lol

[cyborx]

1) bog standard hair rigged mono (cut from whatever my mainline is at the time) but connected to the lead swivel with a lower breaking strain loop to form a weak point.

2) hinged semi stiff rig for pop ups

3) combi rig.

first one because sometimes you just cant beat going back to the start as i find it can and does trip up the beasties plus it can be used with all baits and most methods too.

hinged semi stiff rig with the hinge formed by peeling back the coating and a little tungsten putty added, i like to play with pop ups (and even fish with them sometimes) and the coated braid will make it harder for mr carpy to deal with. the ESP has a nice fine diameter and i find it easy to tie plus it will accept most knots too.

combi rig, why? i dont know really but i have 3 rods so why knot

my reel line at the moment is ESP olive in 15lb, pretty fine at 0.35 and is hard to spot when under water, sinks fast too, has good abrasion resistance and damned good knot strength and so it makes a good hooklink too, provided you build in a weak spot that is and so i use a short loop of 8lb to connect to the swivel, the hook will be a #6 or #4 armapoint ssbp or sssp in microbarb, sometimes with a kicker sometimes knot

 

hinged rig will be ESP two tone to a armapoint lsc micro or a gardner Mugga in #6 with the bait as a popup mounted either on a KD or a blowback rig.

 

lastly, i am currently experimenting with combi rigs and the one i am tying atm is with ESP stiff rig bristle with a two tone hooklink.

i take a #4 ssbp and a 6" length of two tone, strip the braid completely and form a knotless with hair, put on a kicker. take the stiff rig and put a 1" bend in then thread the braid thru the bend and whip 6 turns away from the hook eye, come back over the whips with two turns and back thru the bend the same way you go in, dribble and draw tight then cut off the tails, add tungsten putty to the whipping and then add a quik clip to the other end and steam straight. make the hooklink part as long or short as you need to. stiff section more or less ensures that your bait is presenting + it has the added benifit of acting like a spring to reset your bait after an aborted pickup.

[salokcinnodrog]

I tend to use a standard knotless knot, with an added line aligner as my starting point on most waters.

Hooklinks are simple, braid, coated braid or mono. Since I have been using Kryston since the 1990's with no problems I see no reason to change what works for me, so it's Mantis and Merlin.

 

The mono is usually Amnesia, quite stretchy, but is where I do change my hair attachment to a floss or braid hair.

 

The coated braid is also handy in that it makes a pop-up rig easy to attach putty to, attach the putty where you have stripped back to.

[hutch]

I'm down to just 1 at the minute which serves both presentation's I favour, 7-8 inches of ESP Tungsten Loaded, strong wide gape hook (at the minute this ESP Croygen Grippa not used them long enough to make a proper evaluation), piece of tubing over the eye, hook ring swivel and hook bead, I just adjust the hook bead and putty to weather i am using a pop up or wafter.

 

Looks like most of the good reliable rigs are already covered in other posts 

[yonny]

at the minute this ESP Croygen Grippa not used them long enough to make a proper evaluation

What  you initial thoughts on these hutch? I quite like the look of them.

Don't suppose you sharpen them do you? If so, how long does it take you? I prefer a hook that takes ages to sharpen as they're always far more durable and hence reliable than those that sharpen quickly.

[hutch]

I don't sharpen them, but to be honest they are sharp straight out of the packet i have drawn blood several times when tying simple rigs, I love the pattern perfect for the rig i use them with and the hook holds have all been nailed so far, the only thing I am not certain of is the coating it seems to taint quite quickly but i need to use them more to give a proper verdict, another nice thing is the price point 50p a pack cheaper than my previous choice

[yonny]

I like the look of all 3 patterns in the range tbh. Let me know how you get on longer term plz fella, it'll take something special to get me off the Atomic hooks but I'm genuinely interested in the results of that new tempering process used to treat these.

[nealjt]

After a lot of searching I've settled on these hooks in 6 and 8.

 

http://www.deceptionangling.co.uk/shop/index.php?route=product/product&path=98_102&product_id=225

 

Oooh can't do two rigs though

 

Reverse combi / flick rig, what ever you want to call it. (Very short stiff section)

 

Normal combi

 

Knotless knot

 

Hinge stiff or Chod.

 

All made with different combinations of solar contour 15lb, rigmarole camh20 20lb and hydrolink 15lb. And occasionally korda mouth trap in 15lb although will now probably stick with camh20.

 

If it had to be one material it'd rigmarole hydrolink in 15lb as it gives so much choice [emoji39]

 

My go to rig would definitely be reverse combi with short stiff section. Love it

[nealjt]

OK if it had to be two

 

1 - combi made with hydrolink (25lb braid outer with 10lb flouro inner) hooks as above

 

Length would a pretty standard 6-8 inches. Tied stiff, with small perfection loop to the swivel. Hook end would be tied stiff, chod style whipping knot with a small D, about an inch from the hook I take out about an inch of the fluro to give a short curved stiff section from the hook with the "hinge" of no fluro and the rest stiff to the swivel. I think the curve gives brilliant turning, and makes it more difficult to eject. Kind of makes the hook much bigger or a bit like spitting out a tooth pick. I add a tiny split shot to the end of the curve in the hope that it pulls the hook down into the mouth. When I lay the rig on my kitchen surface and move the swivel so it drops off the side usually the hook will turn and grip the edge and stop it falling to the floor. This is currently tied with a size 6 hook straight point wideish gape and in turned eye. Straight point to help with hooking rather than a curved point for grip. Plastic bait screw on the d with a 10mm pop-up. This sits just off the bottom and ends up more critically balanced than popped up.

 

Sorry for the essay, but you did ask "why" [emoji12] [emoji12]

 

Oh yes rig number two would be a naked running chod never any longer than 3 inches made from camh20 or mouthtrap with the biggest hook and smallest bait I can get to work [emoji39] bottom bead set anywhere from a foot up to 3 foot from the lead and top bead would be 3 - 4 foot up from that. Why...? Because I was suggested to try it that way...

[newmarket]

Straightforward kk uncoated braid rig cos I'm lazy

 

And

 

Naked Chod cos I'm lazy and it means no matter where you (pub)chuck it your pretty much guarenteed to be fishing

[snowmanstevo]

Been using the multi rig for the last 12months.... Can't fault it really,top hook holds

[Andy Hull]

Thanks for all the responces guys, this has given me plenty to look at and plenty to find out about.

 

Thanks again

 

Andy

[salokcinnodrog]

Thanks for all the responces guys, this has given me plenty to look at and plenty to find out about.

 

Thanks again

 

Andy

If it is any use to you:

For me, I do try to keep it as simple as possible. I don't want to cast out, and then retrieve a rig that resembles a ball of cotton wool, tangled around itself.

 

I don't usually want to be faffing around with complications, and I don't often do quicklinks. The reason for always using a swivel to join mainline to hooklink is that it is easy, simple, and I can hide swivel in buffer bead, which I think reduces the movement that a fish has before you get an indication. A swivel also means I can cut away any fragged length of mainline the running lead has slid up and down on. A swivel is a simple join to cut a length of fragged mainline away, then retie.

 

As an add, I say I don't want many complications, but I have mentioned this before, I want to be able to adjust the hair length to deal with the situation, so I do use a sliding ring on the shank.

 

The picture and quote below is from the Sticky at the top of the section, but this rig has accounted for numerous carp, some over 30lb, and also a very large tench.

 

 

 

Sliding Pop-up Rig

This rig is pretty similar to one I am currently using for Pop-ups and Snowman presentations, and I have pictured that below. Although in the picture above I have tied it with Kryston Mantis, and stripped back the coating about a third of the way along,.

 

The bait is tied onto the rig ring with a fine piece of nylon, hair braid or dental floss, I've been using 4lb Mono.

To tie the bait on I tie a Uni knot loop at the end of a piece of nylon and thread in a Pop-up and then pull tight. I then put a bottom bait on the hair and tie it to the sliding rig ring. If to use it for pop-ups then instead of adding a bottom bait you can just tie on that pop-up. If you need to weight it down with putty, then the ragged edge of the coating will hold the putty on, so you can strip as much or as little as you want.