In other news I damaged it in transit on Friday. You can't get them any more so I'm absolutely gutted. I taped it up and it's lasting so far but long term I need a replacement.
At shorter range and with no significant baiting levels a plastic stick is absolutely fine (although I found the Korda jobby goes brittle and snaps after a couple of years regularly exposed to the elements). At longer range and with heavier baiting levels a decent long carbon stick is immeasurably better than plastic imo. I bought the ACA carbon stick after spending a week in France baiting heavily at range with the Korda stick - it killed me - my arm/shoulder took a month to recover. Same venue/tactics with the ACA carbon stick the following year was a doddle. Like anything it's a case of right tools for the job. Carbon is defo better but only in the right situation imo.
Imo the ronnie is no good for bottom baits. It's too heavy to be taken correctly, you need the pop up to take the weight out of it.
Smaller hooks on ronnies is a no-no imo. They lead to inconsistent hook holds. Bigger hooks work much, much better in my experience.
100 yards is a long way with a stick mate. Even the very best distance sticks will struggle past 120ish.
For distance the best are the ACA and the Daiwa - but they are pricey.
Gardner do a decent one called the Propella I think. Decent for distance. Avoid the Scorpion - it's a short range stick.
For value is has to be the Diem one - it's cheap as chips and half decent.
No mate. They are the heaviest two carbon sticks on the market buddy - mainly due to those ports.
Best will depend on what you're using it for. What kind of distance do you need?
I buy my maggots direct from the maggot farm that supplies the surrounding area/tackle shops. I actually now request mine with no cleaning or riddling whatsoever - straight from the line - and just the tiniest bit of dust. They're absolutely disgusting and stink to high heaven - which imo is exactly what you want for fishing.
Most guys love a nice clean riddled wriggler but in terms of effectiveness I do not believe it's the way to go.
Doesn't work mate, they just go all pasty. I've done it with GLM powders, liver powders etc. It's the heat that makes them sweat. Only cooling will prevent it.
I'll generally give the spot one big hit for the night ahead (at least a gallon plus whatever else I'm using with them) but that's because the lower stock waters I fish do not tend to respond well to the constant disturbance of the little/often approach.
When the fishing is tough there is no better method imo. I've had sessions where I've been forced to top up in the night such is their effectiveness. When they're bang on it you can get through gallons and gallons.
Oscsha is right. Unless you keep them cold they will sweat.
Sweating, within reason, doesn't bother me that much. Imo the carp are attracted by the excretions/ammonia given off by the wrigglers. When I use maggots I'll use quite a lot - at least a gallon a night. I'll happily buy 2 gallons at a time and by the second night they're clearly sweating their nuts off but still all alive. I'll never buy more than 2 gallons in one hit as by the third night you can see they're starting to turn/die.
There's a £2k drone on the deck of a big pit in France I used to fish once a year. Of course if the "angler" could actually cast a rod (he used a bait boat too) he'd have stood a chance of retrieving it on rod/line😂
Old school.
Big Game always was (and still is) a decent and reliable line but technology has moved on - there are better options out there nowadays imo.
"Boilies don't work on here"..........
"They don't take floaters on here mate"............
I'm sure, like me, you've heard it all before Phil.
Carp are carp - imo any method, done well, will catch fish on any carp water.
I always try not to plan anything prior to arrival - unless I'm pre-baiting. I find too much planning leads to a blinkered approach on my part and results in poor decision making. With no planning I can just turn up, find fish, and fish for them.