yonny

I am not aware of any brolly that provides a cavity between the brolly itself and the wrap. This essentially makes the wrap completely redundant as you need that cavity to reduce condensation. It is the layer of air that insulates against condensation. In terms of heat and heat loss, no wrap is capable of insulating a brolly to any degree of effectiveness. Your body is the key heat source so decent clothes and sleeping bag is what you need here. Brollies that take a warp include: Trakker Tempest Brolly Aqua Fast & Light ESP Lo Pro All very good brollies, but imho a complete waste of time and money adding the wraps.

I'm guessing the high salt content will inhibit the tigers production of that thick jelly-like sugary slime no? It's your call buddy. Like you say we cannot tell you that you are wrong, we cannot provide the evidence you seek. Let's just hope your tactics don't yield said evidence.

They're proper good they are, and they're actually one of the cheapest options with image stabilisation there is!! Mrs would go mental if I bought some of them lol.

It's about risk innit. It's been known since day dot that particles need to be prepared correctly to eliminate all risk to the fish. It's your call to ignore that risk. In the UK if we even thought about using unprepared particles, on ANY water, we'd be banned for life. On a side note, even prepared particles aint that good for them. Imo the least we can do is try to improve digestibility through decent preparation. At least that way they get the benefit from the limited nutritional content on offer.

This time of year I'd happily use either tbh buddy.

I've seen it on several occasions. On one syndi I saw a bed of boilies go weeks uneaten, they slowly rotted on the deck. I'm not sure what you would consider 'normal' and 'highly attractive' baits. I only use bait that I consider to be attractive. There are numerous records of this happening in angling books. On an overstocked lake I'm sure you're right, bait will get taken almost anywhere. But on lower stocked waters you need to think carefully imo.

I guess it also depends what can be considered an average lake buddy. For examples, I know you fish big un-pressured inland seas, where here in the UK we tend to fish highly pressured waters with fish that have seen everything. I know for a fact that on many of these UK waters, bait in the wrong place will go un-eaten and rot on the bottom.

I would agree with you that salt and other substances are yet to be proven but I understand that it is scientific fact that AAs are attractive/stimulate feeding in carp and other fish.

I looked into it very closely buddy but never did it. They're essentially fancy composters. We do have a composter which is absolutely loaded with worms but the mrs won't let me nick them lol.

For me the most significant thing is putting your bait where the carp like to feed. Your bait could be in position for weeks. If the carp are not prepared to feed there, or worse; they're not there at all, it's all a waste of time.

All animals are built from amino acids (proteins).

Fox have just bought out the new micron m and micron mx. Worth checking out.

How much do you want to spend buddy?

They wash away to nothing and cost a fortune mate. Not worth the hassle. Your best bet is maggot and worm, including the mud the worms come in. Don't add crumb, hemp, or corn, they'll make the mix less effective in a situation where naturals are the one.

Complete lunatic. He hacked one of the other forums after he was banned so all you could see when you logged on was a massive photo of some turnips lol. No joke. He was on the X Factor too. A link was posted to the footage and he went completely mental, proper meltdown, got the solicitors involved and everything (come to think of it that melt-down might have lead to the hacking). His writings are well known to go on and on and on...... lots of it drivel, with seemingly hundreds of over-priced, over-complicated recipes. I can see why you didn't like it mate. Bait can be as complicated as we want to make it but the absolutely key basics are covered very, very well in the bait chapter of Mike Willmott's first book Carp Life. Really good chapter, dead simple, and covers all the really, really important stuff.

Absolutely agree. I probs agree with that too mate. Tbh I'd use the S2's in almost any situation other than an all-out baiting campaign (when I'll want to be using a matching recipe), but spring is when they come into their own imo.

In the summer when I'm fishing boilies I prefer to use a corkball pop up. They provide a proper food signal that cannot be matched by airballs imo. Cork ball pop ups are after all made out of food. In winter I'm less concerned about a food signal as such, rather I'm looking at giving them something more blatant that they just cannot help but investigate. Airballs are decent here. I'll also use airballs when birdlife is a problem, when I want to use smaller hookbaits over none boiled baits (which is quite often), when I want to suspend alternative hookbaits such as maggots, and when I want a hi-attract/hi-viz smelly one off the side of the main spot. I'm sure there's other reasons too. For singles I'll happily chuck a cork ball out but I'm just as confident in a bright smelly airball.

Agree. I'm amazed guys would advocate that as an effective tactic. No one is disregarding free-lining in the right situation, but chucking baits 50 yards with no lead just doesn't make any sense at all to me.

Agree 100%. I've tried all sorts in the past when it comes to bait but my successes have had little to do with bait. Confidence and drive are more effective attributes than any bait can ever be imo. That said, I will always check out any new ideas and theory's in the bait world. It's all part of the never ending learning curve that is carp angling.

So they say mate😉 Tbh I don't see how their requirements can change that much prior to and after spawning. After all, they're already re-building their ovaries and eggs just weeks after spawning. By the start of winter they're full of eggs.

I'm not sure it's an attractor as such but they do need salt and if it can be applied in a pre-baiting situation (i.e. with food) it can certainly help establish an area in the longer term.

Very effective but that is due to the amino content (digested worms) rather than pH change. Imo a food signal will always be more effective than a simple investigation trigger. Certainly in any baiting situation anyway. For singles and zigs the jury is out.

@elmoputney on paper your theory should work but it might be tricky to execute. You're spot on that the pH shift is simply the investigation trigger, but the amino liquid will serve as a feeding trigger, and the maggots simply can't be ignored. I have played with massively over-flavoured pop ups for their local pH changing properties but only in winter. I haven't pursued pH change as it applies to mass baiting as imo any soluble high amino solution will serve as a better attractor. You need to watch your sharpened hooks buddy. The lower the pH, the quicker the hook points will be attacked, so make sure either you protect the points very, very well with wax, or use a hook straight from the pack.

Cant be compared bud. The proper jobs aren't cork balls. Cork balls are always better imo, but there are occasions when you need a standard pop up, that's where the proper jobs come in for me.

The yellows filter the brighter colours on the spectrum of light during dawn and dusk but at night there is no light to filter. You'd be even more blind Elmo. They are great for dawn and dusk though.