yonny
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Everything posted by yonny
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Imo if you need to wash out your baits to get a bite there is something very wrong with your bait. We pay all that money for the most attractive bait we can get then wash all the attractors out. Makes no sense to me. If you want a soft bait try washing in; saturating in a water/glug/hydro mix. This adds to the attractors rather than washing them out and softens them up nicely. As they're saturated they don't take on silt either.
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Exactly what I was going to suggest. In terms of tactics, same as any lake mate, find the fish and fish for them.
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The green candy floss is our enemy mate.
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😂😂 Any bobbins will do bud, heavier is certainly better for zigs imo.
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Singers lol? Swingers? Sinkers? Auto correct I'm guessing lol.
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Honestly, I'm no that fussy when it comes to zigs mate. I will use big hooks though (normally a 6). Any old wide gape or curve shank jobby will do, I've even used chod hooks. As long as they're needle sharp I don't think it matters, I don't think mechanics are anywhere near as important with zigs. I always add a tiny bit of silicon to hold the gape open though.
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That is not the fault of the hooks lads. That's you dinging them on gravel on the retrieve. You need physical contact to bend a hook point. The sharper the hook, the less contact you need to bend them. Changing to a blunter hook is not the answer imo. You need to lift that rig off the deck prior to retrieving👍
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I've not bought putty in ages. I use the old Taska Tungsten Chod Beads. They balance my pop ups perfectly. Been using the same ones for maybe 4 or 5 years now, I think they cost me 3 quid. Can't get much cheaper than that.
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Like any fluoro/stiff hooklink it works well on clean substrates with a lead clip. I wouldn't use it on dirtier spots, even with a heli set up. Abrasion resistance is better than mono so should be ok around snags within reason. I'm not sure that's the right reason to use a rig mate. Have a think about what you're trying to achieve. Assess the spot and select the rig that presents/acts most effectively on the substrate👍
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Imo it's not worth saving a quid or two when it comes to something as critical as rigs. If you're looking to save cash save it on the big superficial buys - shelters , bedchair etc.
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I would consider 49% off to be a sale lol.
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With lots of nuisance species around the sooner you get them on those boilies the better imo. With corn and pellet you'll need to be ready to get through a hell of lot of tench and bream to get to the carp.
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I consider floater fishing to be stalking.
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@Highy, get an ANKER off Amazon. Reasonably priced and very good quality.
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Agree lads. That's a big risk to take. A game changer no less.
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Schoolboy error my friend!!!! Agree.
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Tackle I'd like to see invented?
yonny replied to Dicky123's topic in Carp Fishing Tackle and Equipment
You'd struggle big time imo mate, not good for distance. I once did a France trip with 30 odd kg and my spot was 100+. Baited with the stick all week, absolutely destroyed me. I pulled my shoulder, blistered my hands, all sorts😫 I remember the shoulder got better weeks and weeks later and just as I thought it was sorted I climbed a tree on a local pit and pulled it again lol. -
Tackle I'd like to see invented?
yonny replied to Dicky123's topic in Carp Fishing Tackle and Equipment
I'd like to see a carbon barrow. It'd cost a fortune but would be a fantastic weight saver. -
Tackle I'd like to see invented?
yonny replied to Dicky123's topic in Carp Fishing Tackle and Equipment
Dunno @oscsha, stick is good for up to 120 max imo, no good at 120+. -
My approach would be to fill it in with hemp and boilies. The carp will smash the hemp to bits, it'll wean them on to the boilies. Once they're eating the boilies I'd drop the hemp entirely. Best and quickest way to empty an un-fished lake imo.
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Yes mate, that's normally the root cause.
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That can only happen if the hook hasn't penetrated far enough mate. Not the fault of the hook. Just unlucky buddy.
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Agree, the trick is hitting the clip just right I.e. not too high, not too low.
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Imports. Don't count!
