salokcinnodrog

Vinegar may make a very good attractant. It is the solvent base in a few liquid food dyes, and I have used them in a (food) bait myself. As for beetroot, I can't see it being a total failure, as I'm sure it is exactly the same as any other bait, put it in the right place, and it should catch. It is just whether it is an attractant or repellant with the vinegar. As for beetroot on its own, it bleeds and will stain anything with its natural red dye, lemon juice will remove it.

Whatever hook pattern I have faith in and use normally, length around 20cms, but will change dependant on hookholds and losses, and always a braided hooklink.

Don't get me wrong, where there is a need for distance casting, then the use of a shockleader will mean that you can reach the fish. Yet in any water with snags or weeds in then the leader should be dispensed with. I used to fish Suffolk Water Park a fair bit, and that is very weedy, some serious gravel bars, more flint than gravel, and some large swan mussels. I was using a set-up that incorporated leadcore, to (hopefully) prevent the bars wearing through the line, but the leadcore on playing a fish actually went round the end of the bar, and cut off above the leader, leaving the fish trailing a rig and leader, and probably a lead as well. On the same note, I also retrieved a load of line, attached to a leader, complete with lead on helicopter set-up and rig, that had been cracked off. That same water has also lost fish that have been tethered up when the leaders have caught up in the weed. It is one of the reasons that I started thinking about safety and removing leadcore and leaders from my set-up.

Adding any leader to your mainline increases the danger and risk of tethering to fish. In fact if you fish a water with any weed or snags, then you should accept that you can't use a leader, even for maximum distance casting, and fish closer. I'm actually getting to the stage of believing that fishing with a leader should not be part of carp fishing. The only place that a leader should be used is for absolute maximum distance casting, but only in large clear waters. A leader increases the chance of rigs being unable to eject off the leader should it get twisted or even over the knot. If you do suffer a break-off, and the line gives way, then when you are putting tackle under stress, the weak point has been shifted towards the rod tip. You may be able to tie a perfect knot, but the first weak point nearly always gives, and that weak point is the mainline to leader knot. The result, you have lost fish (maybe), rig, leader, lead etc. But now as the line cracks back around itself, it may have birds nested, and so preventing ejection. If you leave a leader with baited rig etc in the lake, that rig is fishing until the bait or hook rots away. Also in most cases, a leader does absolutely no use whatsoever in disguising your end tackle. A tight line will allow vibrations and sound to travel down it, whether mono, fluoro etc. So using an apparently clear line (or supposedly invisible underwater), does not necessarily mean it can't be detected. In fact even underwater, fluorocarbon will be visible in certain conditions, it passes a shadow over gravel, sand or clay (!), and can be seen along the same lines as a mirage. Over weed it may not be noticed, but then we come back to the tackle risk. The best way to disguise your line is to fish it slack, or running along the lakebed. In fact at much above 40metres, I reckon the line will be running over the lakebed anyway as it naturally drops down from the tips in an arc.

I wonder why it has received the name 'chod set-up', as the rotary or helicopter name was about long before the name chod. I've used various type rigs on a helicopter, bomb on the end of the line, rotary or whatever name you want to call it. I've actually used the Withy pool very little as found no need for it, but found that when I did it was fairly tangle free on the standard pendant, and it didn't tangle on the helicopter style. At the end of the day try to keep things as simple as possible, but if being what may be overly complicated works for you then try it.

Mobile pics with Carp.com can be a pain in the butt, but there is a way. Go to photobucket and upload the pics, then when you have done that see if you can copy the image tags and paste each one into a message. Log into Carp.com after copying all the tags, and then as you make the post, you should be able to paste in the tags, although each phone is different, that is how I do it on my old Nokia. As for blanking this week, don't fret about it, the weather has gone cold again, probably put the fish down, and made them difficult to find if they have gone back into their winter hideouts. That is my excuse anyway, as i blanked this week as well

I did try to edit the original post so that your pics show up on post, but for some reason couldn't manage it. The best way I have foun d to put pictures on the site is to have 2 pages open, one set up on Photobucket or your photo host page, and Carp.com post page. Upload your pictures to photobucket, and then go to save and view album. Position your cursor over the picture you want to use, and underneath it will bring up a list of tags, click and copy the tag which starts and ends with the {IMG} code, and then paste it into the carp.com post. That simple knotless knot rig will work and probably catches 95% of the carp caught in the country Also because it is so simple, it is also easy to change, and make different by whatever hooklink material you use; Mono, fluorocarbon, braid, coated braid, all will give different actions and behaviour, and mono and fluoro can be split even further into stiff or lighter breaking strain. I don't know how many times I have written it, but keep things as simple as you can. Location is the important part, then putting the rig in the right place. Complicated is not always best, as I keep proving to myself.

With a buoyant bait at the bend end (ooh er Mrs), attached to the shank or at the base of the bend, and a hair coming from the eye end, you can actually lift the hookpoint above the bottom rubbish, preventing the point being masked on a take. Rod Hutchinson has been mentioned as having published it, but I know that Rob Maylin and Andy Little have both put it in publications, and maybe even Julian Cundiff has said something on those lines. If I remember rightly, one of Hutchy's versions was of a couple of hairs with grains of hemp on them, used when fishing particles (hemp).

I've not been one for PVA sticks, in fact I could count on one finger how many times I have used the method Brackens has some weedy patches, some quite severe, and some not so, and my standard rigs worked on both areas, and nearly all were fished with a stringer. On that water I tended to use either Combi rigs made up using Amnesia and Merlin/Supernova, a loop knot at the hooklink swivel and a line aligned hook on the end of the braid, or my alternative was a coated braid with a stripped back section at the hook end, both were fished with snowman hookbaits. The hooklink was usually about 20 to 30centimetres and attached to a running lead set-up, with the stringer being attached to mainline and hook to prevent tangles. On a weedier water years ago, again I didn't used to bother with a pop-up, but fished a braided hooklink, inline lead, and the whole lot put in a PVA bag; lead, link, hook and bait.

In that case why bother fishing 2 rods?

I've not been down for a couple of years now, although I do know of the occasional fish coming out, but the angler concerned was keeping very much to himself.

Its a pig to cast having a pop-up on a shank/bend mounted hair, and an eye mounted hair bottom bait. I think its called the one up one down rig I used to use it on a water where I could put the end tackle in by hand, and it did work. It worked and hooked a few fish where I had missed some takes on a simple knotless knot rig, but I think it may have worked due to keeping the hook(point) clear of the weed

Yeah i have a few tied up with braid but i always thought ring swivels would work better I'm never sure that swivels work particularly well as we use them in fishing. I don't think that there is a need to be so complicated most of the time, a basic standard pop-up rig will work. If you do need to use a 360, then you will have to use whatever weight it takes to get the hook to sit as you want it.

My thoughts as well. I avoid Korda and other Maggot rings for the same reason. I have removed a few posts, the follow-up comment made about opinions was frankly quite rude and insulting.

You know every thread comes up about Rushes Lake, I am convinced that Kim is into bribery to those who go to write a good report about it It's those breakfasts that I'm sure are famous. Seriously, on every report I have ever read about the lake and owners, has only ever been good.

Oh, and don't think that Fox Arma mesh is crayfish proof . The little blighters will still cut through the stuff to get to whatever is inside.

A fair while ago Joe (Useph) started this very handy thread: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=32920 A fair amount of the time I put my baits onto a double length of PVA cord or string, and then loop the PVA round the mainline/tubing and then put the tag ends and boilies through the loop. It holds it onto the line nicely with no knots. The tag ends then get used to create another loop which holds the hookbait in place. I then have a line of boilies down the length of the hooklink. Or just as easily I do a number of baits in a mesh, split the PVA down into a length and use the tag ends I have created to tie around the mainline/tubing, without pulling it tight so that the knot doesn't get left around the line. As for bags, I can get long or short ones, and either lick and stick or tie around the line with a double granny. Also make sure you get hold of decent PVA. I still use http://www.moscopva.net/ ; far better PVA than many tackle brands, and at a decent price, cheaper than Korda.

I don't necessarily use all the advice I've been told in the local tackle shop. I'm with James, if I want to provide some protection (more to the mainline than the fish), then I will use tubing. Everything I caught this winter has been on mainline straight through, with no tubing. I used to use tubing almost every time, but after seeing some of Moorsey's results on his plain straight through mainline I thought what the heck, I can convince myself its not needed. Not every piece of advice that you receive or hear of from Big Name anglers is the safest thing you can do, after all, I can think of a couple who advocate long lengths of leadcore. Have Fun reading this little lot: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=25587 http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=32598 http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=39794

Me trying NOT to be sarcastic

No you aren't. It also goes green if you cover it with Kryston Greased Lightning 'Which Bloomin Mainline!': http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=28523 4 pages of ideas and opinions

Line cutting into fish is another load of rubbish spread by the tackle manufacturers. Do you use a leader when you fish zig rigs or floater fishing? I somehow think NOT. Plain straight through mono stands less chance of cutting fish than leadcore, and a leader in weed is an absolute danger that can risk fish beng tethered in the event of a break-off. You are adding another weak spot in your line, that of the knot joining the mainline to the leader, and under pressure is the first place that breaks. With a snapped off leader, if a fish is going round in the weed, it doesn't take much for the rubbish to build up and for the fish to become tethered. As for slack line, considering you were asking about line tension and bobbins on another thread (see I do read ), I know a fair bit about slack line fishing, and it only works effectively with a running lead, which to my mind can only be fished with a pendant lead, not an inline. You can even fish slack lines with a very heavy bobbin, but with the indicator at maximum drop, i.e. the weight does NOT come into play until the fish starts to take line. Note, I do say I use inlines in weed, but for that I resort to a tight line, and stay semi-fixed.

What bobbin would you suggest? Wouldn't want to use a leader in weed. In fact, I would try my hardest to avoid them altogether if possible. I wouldn't use a leader in a water with any weed or snags, and I would prefer NOT to use a lead clip that may or may not discharge the lead if it got caught up. Tie the lead on with a piece of fine line or attach it with a paperclip. The other thing is that a zipp shaped inline lead may also slide through the weed easily without snagging up, and with that fitted breakaway style will likely be very safe. Also can put the whole lot in a bag, hook, bait, hooklink and lead.

Are you looking for a coated or uncoated braid? For years I have stuck to Kryston braids for both, and use Merlin, Supernova, Mantis or Mantis Gold. None have failed, so I see no need to change, although I have recently been looking at Sufix/Gardner braids with a few ideas just in case.

Costessey Number 3 was always a low stock difficult fishery with old fish. I think that when I lived in Norfolk it only contained 10 fish, and that now is a lot less. Probably the only water on the complex that could be fenced The Ski Pit (No.2) was another water that took a lot of effort to get onto the fish with such difficult bankside access. Fencing No.2 is almost impossible, different landowners or controlling clubs on the various sides. Just had a thought, it is not syndicate, and I don't know how badly affected but is Booton suitable? There are or were some decent fish in there, but it is not an easy easy water. I ask as I don't know your disability, so am presuming you are able to walk but not long distances. My disability enables me to walk a reasonable distance with a rest,i am interested in taverham as i understand it has facilities for disabled fishing. My concern is how busy does it get? but would try to go on quite times as i am no longer working. Bear in mind it is a lot of years since I fished it, but it is a back breaking walk for anyone, especially if you go to the far side of the lake. The river mill and bridge on the meadow are not particularly barrow friendy. The high slope angle on the meadow bridge mean that pushing a barrow over it can be painful, and the mill itself is quite narrow with a few of the old metal strips still embedded in the ground. The lodge outside toilet was just a basic WC. As for the Taverham swims, some of them were woodchip, some gravel, and some mud/natural, a few had wooden fronts, but some on the road bank, cow tail and the stock pond/plateau did have a high step down into them. It was usually fairly busy at weekends, with a few swims left over, but Bank Holiday weeks it was often very crowded, and finding a swim could be a 'mare.