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salokcinnodrog

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Everything posted by salokcinnodrog

  1. Some of the best pop-ups straight from the tub are actually some of the worst for taking on water when pierced, and as for what Beanz says, cork ball can be such a mess. The quick water ingress can get the paste to fall away from the cork ball as well. I don't bother with the bait floss method of tying them on, I simply use a fine mono to tie them on with, which I have found can cut into the skin, almost cauterising itself and the pop-up enlarges around it. I've had pop-ups stay buoyant for days doing that Uni knot in the nylon to create the loop, insert pop-up, pull loop tight, and job done. I do the Uni knot whether I am tying pop-ups onto ring or if it is a continuation of the knotless knot with braid as my hooklink.
  2. Don't want to confuse you further after reading so many posts but...... If I was going to go for a rig to use anywhere it would definately be the simple running rig described in this thread and linked to a few times. Inline leads give good hooking potential but I only use them on hard bottoms like clean gravel or sand. In light weed or silt an inline is more likely to drag the end of the hooklink into the silt, potentially leaving the rest of your hooklink sticking up off the bottom. If you use the running rig you are more likely to get good presentation as a pear lead will bury into the silt bottom first, hopefully leaving your hooklink flat along the bottom so the carp won't see it. The thing with inline leads is that for Semi-fixed lead set-ups they offer the best hooking potential, however they don't work on all waters, and some carp have learnt how to deal with them I definitely wouldn't use an inline lead over gravel, too much chance of the lead forcing the swivel into the gravel and risk damaging the hooklink and hooklink knot I would however use an inline in weed as it is less likely to tangle than a pendant set up A running inline lead is not likely to work as planned, it only takes a tiny bit of grit or weed to jam up the lead and prevent it running. Did you then have the fish on a running set up or on a semi-fixed set-up? For running leads, I still resort to a large run ring stopped from hitting the hooklink swivel knot by a bead or tail rubber. Mine or Gaz's links are all still valid I reckon I don't think that that is a fair comment to make. Nutrabaits, Richworth Mainline etc have been tested, and proved to have worked and caught fish, and as a (boilie) starting point is probably the best place to start. Not everyone has access to the bait knowledge or companies who can knock out a good food source boilie at £6 a kilo.
  3. I'm with Keenook on this, Waveney Valley is a nice set of lakes, you've got Marsh, Yew Tree, Heartsmere as well as the lettered series C, D/E. Plenty of fish to go for, all have good 20's, the chance of a 30, and in a couple, the possibility of a 40 Alternatives in Norfolk, Taverham Mills would be my other choice. There has been a lot written in the past on the forum about Cobbleacre (hit the search facility, i'm feeling lazy ). However I will give you a swim by swim description on Taverham Mills as well as a few other possible on this link: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=46858 Also have a look at Suffolk Water Park
  4. Started as a "wicked" comment, didn't expect to get quite so much feedback, I should know better I cleaned up as much as I could without taking away from the thread as some of the posts are covering both topics. Anyway, here is a PVA link that may be useful: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=27183
  5. Right, I have copied and pasted all the leadcore posts onto this thread: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?p=509296#509296 This thread is about Solid Bagging, and it will stay that way. Any more leadcore replies can go onto that thread above, or I will lock this thread again as I did while I did the C&P
  6. And therein lie 2 problems in themselves The use of leadcore in carp fishing and then the use of that name of manufacturer Leadcore: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=32598 http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=39794 http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=38886&highlight=acf http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=47006&highlight=acf I used the "it won't work with leadcore" as there is absolutely no safe reason to use leadcore as a leader in carp fishing Why not? If used in the wrong hands it can be dangerous but so can everything... Tubing.. Leaders etc..... I use it and know alot of people that use it and have had no problems so i dont really think you can say that... I know from reading your posts that you personally dont agree with using it and thats fair enough but its clear from what other people have said that they are just jumping on the "bandwagon" and agreeing with you. ? I used to use leadcore, helicopter and pendant set-ups, did a lot of experimentation and No there is NO safe way to use a Leadcore leader in any of them. Even if you think that it is safe, it takes only a small kink to trap a bead or rig, even on a heli set-up, which means that a fish is trailing it around, rig and leader. As an example, I trapped a 3oz lead in a kink formed by casting and hitting the water, and swung it around my head. The lead could not pull free. The added weight of a leadcore leader trailing prevents even a barbless hook being ejected. If you are stupid enough to use a pendant or inline leadcore set-up then you are increasing the danger factor, the leader could snap-off ABOVE the leader and then a fish is automatically stuck trailing the lot. The experiments weren't just playing and trying it on the bank. I was casting the leadcore and rigs into 4foot of water at various ranges from just metres out to 70metres. Leadcore does NOT lay totally flat along the lakebed, it does NOT merge into the bottom. It is more visible than standard mainline. I also had to retrieve fish snagged up on a heli leadcore set-up in freezing cold water up to my chest that had managed to swim around a branch. Sam asked about Solid Bagging and also whether he needed to use tubing or leader. I added the not with leadcore as a "wicked" comment (hence the icon) and then gave links to Leadcore and Leader threads when someone queried the use of leadcore with PVA bags, hoping that if someone decided to query the leadcore comment that they would add onto one of those threads As for solid bags, they can be used with Helicopter, Inline or Pendant set-ups. Best way I have found with inline and pendant leads is hookbait in corner inside the bag, add a bit of rig, put in a bit of filling, rest of rig, more filling, then add lead to top inside the bag. It tidies it up nicely with a lick and stick, although you do want the lead centrally. With Helicopter set-ups, filling in bottom of bag, add lead, a little bit more filling, then hook onto side of bag and then lick and stick
  7. And therein lie 2 problems in themselves The use of leadcore in carp fishing and then the use of that name of manufacturer Leadcore: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=32598 http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=39794 http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=38886&highlight=acf http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=47006&highlight=acf I used the "it won't work with leadcore" as there is absolutely no safe reason to use leadcore as a leader in carp fishing
  8. Lick and stick the bag up. It will lick and stick around standard mainline, leader or tubing It doesn't work with leadcore though
  9. Fish to what you find is right for your fishing. As Stoogi has says there is much difference between the same size hook in various brands and patterns, there is not really a universal hook size guide. Its not just carp fishing that will make you think about the hook size you use, I often use size 8's for roach fishing, be it with sweetcorn or bread as bait, and for carp and chub I will if need be go up to a size 2. A size 2 in a chubs mouth with a large lobworm, slug or bit of bread easily gets lost, and a carp can easily suck in the same size worm on that hook, or even a large piece of crust The main reason for the size of hook we use is more to match the bait size to, although with hair rigging we can make that more difficult to think about.
  10. Is this any use? http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=46858
  11. The most important part of river fishing is exactly the same as lakes, location, and I use exactly the same rigs on the river, although lead set-up may vary from my favoured running lead. One of the most beautiful carp I have caught, at 28lbs, came from a river and was caught with 2x 15mm glugged baits on a line aligned rig of about 20cms made with Merlin braid on a semi-fixed lead over a few handfuls of pellets.
  12. Mentioned on here as well I believe Club Water wise you have Kelvedon and District, Sudbury and District Angling and CAPS, all are mentioned on the forum a few times
  13. Plenty of silver fish, a few chub, fewer barbel and even fewer carp. It is fairly snaggy, there are not that many carp in the actual weir section as the carp are pretty nomadic along the river.
  14. Sure, totally agree, which is why the hair is so important, yet why so many people fail miserably when they fish a bait close to the shank with a very short or non existant hair.
  15. I remember reading part of this book at school, but when I decided to buy some books for my children for Christmas I couldn't help myself reading it again from the start to finish. An amazing tale of how a Cross bred dog from California makes it all the way up to The Yukon into the harshness of Sled dog life during the goldrush. I started the book and couldn't put it down until I had read it from cover to cover.
  16. Its a case of examining every situation as you come to it, and I work on where I where I hook the Carp. I want the Carp to be as confident in my bait as possible, so I tend to keep rigs as simple as possible as well. If I need the hair length extended I will do so. Taken from Andy Littles, Anglers Mail Guide to Carp Fishing, must have been published in the late 80's/early 90's
  17. I totally agree that location is the first part of fishing, but I also think that at times there is a need to come up with something more complicated than the basic. Obviously on "overstocked" lakes the carp will have to pick up almost every item, and in order to make sure that they get the food item will take a massive risk to eat it first. Yet on waters with different circumstances, be it weed, more wary fish or fish that don't necessarily need to eat bait to survive, then you may well need to go more complicated. I also think that in many cases anglers avoid the next step in rig evolution, jumping into the fashionable rig as opposed to the next step forward. A very inefficient rig can be made very efficient by getting the feeding situation right
  18. Use a used Polystyrene cup as bait then
  19. If Gaz hadn't locked it I would have done Problem being that individuals think that it is safe to use because after all Mr. Shelley uses and recommends it, or fisheries won't ban it because the money issue, more anglers more money, and to heck with the risk factor. Here is another thread, I believe complete with a pic or 2: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=38886&highlight=advanced+carp+fishing 13 pages debating the leadcore issue, and how much magazines actually put into showing the risks or discussing the issue
  20. Wrong choddys are for weed. Jim Shelley uses a choddy over any bottom apart from hard bottoms. The lead will sink into the weed and the rest of the leader or mainline will settle on top as long as the pop-up only just sinks under the wait of the leader or putty etc. A well tied and balanced choddy will settle on the tiniest strands of weed or bottom debris! Chods aren't for weed, honest indian The proper name for the set-up was Silt Rigs, that is where they were first designed for. They've become a standard approach, but in weed they can actually cause a few problems; hookpulls or line breakages where the ring abrades the line, or even when the line is being pulled at 90degrees to the fish. I believe Adam Penning has a few comments on it in this months Carpology Rotary Letter, Tim Paisley in one of his books, and also the great Danny Fairbrass said as much in The Korda Guide to Rig Making A semi fixed or running paternostered bait is better in weed, a long tail on a run ring attaching the bomb with a weak link
  21. Safe Zone DOES NOT refer to fish safety, it is the area around the hookbait that he is trying to create. I have retrieved a Safe Zone leader, that was not in any way safe at all. The lead would not or could not be removed by anything other than brute force and a pair of pliers to cut the lead off. The leader was attached to tens of metres of line, and the rig could not be ejected Extra Safety? You have been brainwashed, extra safety is NOT using leaders at all. In fact, having seen some of the big name anglers and how they fish, some definitely haven't heard of carp safety or don't care. That matter was definitely brought up in this months Carpology. IS using a 10ft length of leadcore safe? Honest answer... I can name a big name angler who does! Every time you put on a leader you are moving the weakest point further up the line to the mainline to the leader knot. Without a leader the weak point is the mainline to hooklink join (usually swivel or quicklink), and so in the event of a break the fish is only carrying a hooklink, hook and swivel, which CAN easily be ejected as there is no tension on the hook. EVERY leader increases the risk of a fish getting tethered, a lead not releasing, tension holding the hook in place. Have a read of some of the back issues of Carpology, I can't remember who, sorry, but tubing is apparently able to be caught up on weed and pulled down causing bunching up. (Something I'm going to have to experiment with in a fishing situation ) That possibly leads to a lead not being able to be released. In other words, Leaders and tubing are less safe than plain straight mainline straight through. The choice of the tiny possibility of lifting a scale with mainline, or the larger risk of tethering a fish on a leader? I'm fishing WITHOUT leaders, and where I don't need it without tubing as well. Now lets leave it at that I did give the original link, but here it is again, as all these posts have been copied and pasted: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=32598
  22. Ashmire has been mentioned on the forum in the dim and distant past It may be worth digging up an old thread and asking for any new information on that thread, the new posts bring it back to the top of the section ( Search Facility, type in Ashmire, Click "search all terms" and specify UK Where to fish section. Also in Cambridgeshire, again, been mentioned in the past is Earith Carp Lakes
  23. Is this any use? http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=22185 there are a few rig pics of stiff and D-rig set-ups. When it comes to mounting a pop-up (or even Snowman) onto a rig ring or D-rig I create a loop at the end of the hair material (in my case usually 4 lb mono) by tying a Uni knot and putting the pop-up into that loop and pulling tight. Then with that bait I can then work out the hair length required and tie the hair onto the ring with a Uni or Blood knot.
  24. Another way of adding cork to the rig is simply to fish it as the top bit on a snowman or as one of a series of baits in a stack rig. Tim Paisley had a series of Big Winter Carp on his stack rig which I seem to think was 3 10mm boilies on the hair with a corkball being 2nd from the top.
  25. Anything on here any use? http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=46858
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