salokcinnodrog

Alternatively have a sliding rig ring on the shank with a bead or stop to stop it sliding round the bend and off the hook, and attach your soft material hair to that

I've brought this back from the Abyss, as I was going through my photobucket and found a couple of rig pics I took on a lake. It is not the most coloured water, yet even up close and personal, it is almost impossible to see the actual rig underwater. I know the hookbaits are easily visible, I know that on one it is possible to see the tubing, and looking carefully, the lead. These pics may have been taken in the margins, but just how visible is the rig out in the main lake where the water is deeper and visbility not so clear. Is the main lake going to be so clear in gravel as it is in the top picture? As an add, from the top picture, I did actually catch a carp from that spot!

A simple rig ring will work, as would a standard quick link. A swivel is used for the ease of attaching the line at either end, and it sure as heck doesn't prevent line twist or allow the swivels to spin freely Swivels also make for good locking deviices, locking the lead clip, locking the inline lead to a swivel is easy

As simple as you can get, although I used to use braid where the River Gipping was quite slow. An inline lead, braided hooklink, knotless knotted and line aligned. As much of my fishing was up close and personal on such a small river I was able to lower the lead and rig in with no worry about tangles. On areas I had to cast, then a PVA bag kept it tangle free

And why didn't I think of that Possibly cos of the worry of finding the hole after, but considering I bell the end of the plastic inserts on inline leads in that manner to hold the sleeve on, I should know better

Solar did do the http://www.solartackle.co.uk/products/rig-gear?ptitle=bullet-buffer-beads_159 to fit their gear, but rubber tulip beads also work: http://www.tacklebox.co.uk/terminal-tackle/beads/anchor-rubber-tulip-beads.html I found that occasionally all of the tubing pulls out of the beads (hence part of my choice for going naked, but these beads seem to work best and take most tubing. I suppose it is possible to safely glue the tubing into the bead, (the run ring will ensure the lead is able to come off, and in the event of a mainline snap it usually goes at the hooklink swivel) but then the tubing after a while will possibly crack at the bead.

In the link, I know the bottom pic shows my rig length and make-up. That is not to say it is right or wrong, but I prefer to have two thirds of the length being the stiff material. I know others have different feelings on that.

Combi-rig pic and set up on this thread: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=57620 The rig in the pic had actually been on the rods, and had recently landed a new PB for me, hence the knot tail of the mainline being just cut off the rods, and rig photographed

If I said Amnesia would you be surprised? In 20 or 30lb breaking strain, and black or clear dependant on lakebed. I honestly don't think that in many cases the hooklink really matters if it is camouflaged on the lakebed, there will be weed, twigs, sticks, stones and everything that all show up, and so break up the hooklink materials from being too obvious. Add to that, and in the depths of the lake, I bet your clear water is a lot more murky I think it was the first material used for a combi-rig tied to braid, and I started using it back in the 1990's and still use it today. The only change now I that I'm pretty much using Merlin for the braided section almost exclusively

I'm not sure that the lead is ever responsible for hooking the fish, unless the carps acceleration and the lead weight are at absolute... I used to use 2-3oz inlines a lot (but not for around 10 years, went to running leads), a length of tubing, braided hooklink and know I could stick the whole lot in a bag. My thought was always that the quicker the fish moved off and got to the lead, with least movement from the lead and the hooklink swivel, then the sooner the hook would pr ick and the run would be indicated. Fished with a dead tight line, absolutely no slack and the indicator at the top just under the rod. It worked for years with monkey climbers, and then with swingers. I used the standard Korda leads, and plastic inserts supplied, then lighter flamed and belled the end of the insert on the hooklink end. Over that I would then fix a neoprene sleeve and that locked over the swivel.

I can honestly say I have not used a hooklink anti tangle sleeve. I knot the hooklink material to the swivel, job done. No tangles, no worries and if the possibility of tangle is there (only with braid), then I have PVA.

Tie your hook on as normal, then with the soft braid for your hair material, tie that into the eye of the hook with a blood knot. I cover the eye and knots with shrink tubing to protect them. It does mean that you are changing rigs or retying when you need to change hair length though.

Ty checked out combi rig looks like a super rig like the fact that when casted the stiff boom would petrude with minimal chace of a tangle give the hook total freedom to move, simila to a rig i usually us just with out the stiff material and instaed i peel back coating of hook length. will get on the combi over week end. how effective do you find it ? Hi Mate, Being as it is your post, could you do a copy and paste of the link onto this thread: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=55800 I'd do it myself, but being as you dug out the link, you should get the post and credit I have put a pic up on another thread of my combi-rig set-up, but reckon I can put it up again here: You don't have to use the sliding/revolving rig ring, a plain straight knotless knot will work, but in the other thread I believe I give my explanation of why I use the revolving ring. Also the supple section can be any braid you prefer, and the boom I know a fair number of anglers prefer a fluorocarbon, but I'm old fashioned, and why change what works for me?

It is a method I use a lot, when stalking fish, and when I know that they visit the area. I often bait a few areas up, then fish a few minutes in each one before re-baiting and moving on around the lake. It produces a lot of good fish for me, tench and carp. I also enjoy teaming it up with a centre pin, there is nothing like the screech of the reel as you get a proper take after plenty of dips and glides of the float when the fish are brushing the line.

Nige, Have you tried this rig although using a plain standard ring instead of the swivel? I understand that a swivel will give a little bit more weight to balance the pop-up, but I think that a rig ring will still give correct movement along the D-rig section

I deleted my previous post on this thread as I felt I had to quantify some of my comments: I thought about it, I worked on it, and I came up with the same as I used however long ago I originally put this up, although I have changed the hook pattern. I use the same hook arrangement with a coated braid and a combi rig, although the only difference between the two is the choice of coated braid or combi: These rigs can be used for snowman, pop-up or bottom baits with little change. The hair length on a pop-up is shortened, in fact the bait is tied in a loop and then attached to the rig ring tight to the hook shank. I then use the knot on the combi-rig or the end of the stripped section to attach putty to for the pop-up height. With the snowman I put the bait in the loop and then tie the hair at the length I think is right, so that the bottom bait of the two will be on the hair. As for a plain bog standard bottom bait, the hair is tied on with a standard loop and then hair stop is used to hold it in place. The advantage of the rig ring is that I can change the hair length to suit my fishing, rather than break it all down to change it.

Plenty of theories for and against a pop-up in a PVA bag. The pop-up is the most noticeable piece of food, carp eats first, gets hooked. Alternate, the bottom bait is just hoovered up by carp as it eats patch of food. Both work, or both fail and don't do as well as you expect... Is this any use?

You may possibly find these useful: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=57582 http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=55800 The second link I gave you, I updated it last year, but I still use those style rigs, even though the pics I put up myself (my own rigs on there) and thread originally went up around 2008

Other link still working as it is Zander1's Chod rig 'Rant' in Past Hot Topics

Korda sliders?

The ring swivels should in theory help prevent snap-offs, but from experience, they don't work as said on the tin If you slide a perfectly smooth piece of metal up and down a rope, the rope will start to fray, and eventually wear through, that is what I believe happens with ring swivels. Add to that if the ring swivel is in contact with the lakebed, and I reckon it happens a bit, then you may get a piece of grit or stone may take a tiny chunk out of the ring swivel. I use swivels a fair bit, and I have seen even braid will wear tiny nicks into the metalwork, if that happens on a ring swivel, another chance of a snap-off. The Cox and Rawle Beach Beads I refer to in the other threads, I have a link, however, no matter what Cox and Rawle say DO NOT glue them together, and put the bead with the large hole up the line nearest the rod tip. You can then put either a ring swivel or a standard swivel on the taper: http://www.coxandrawle.com/products/accessories/beach-beads

Don't know how I missed this first time around, must have been offline for a fair while and not using the forum or it was that horrible word Chod, so I purposely avoided it... There is a horrible possibility with the ring swivel on the mainline. No matter how you go, the naked chod is a risk in as much as the ring swivel under tension can wear and abrade the mainline, causing unexplained snap-offs While in this case it would only (or should) just leave a small rig and hook in the fish, it is a snap-off that should not happen You would be far better off to use what I suppose is a chod bead. Have a read through these: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=51296 http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=37603 The second link contains a pic of my 'Heath Robinson' looking Silt Rig set-up, which can be fished as sliding or semi-fixed

I must confess that while I appreciate tidiness in rigs I'm sure that mine don't always come out as the best looking. I have a habit of lighter tagging the end of braids at knots to stop them fraying as I think it looks tidier, but when it comes to knots on mono or braids I do prefer to use the Grinner/Uni knot as it is what I am comfortable with. I do make sure that I bed all my knots down carefully, and then give them a darn good pull to test them before casting out, and I very rarely have a break, unless I need it, when it will nearly always go at the knot. That need it, should a fish find the snag, or if I overcast into a tree etc, then I want the line to break at the knot, so that I am not leaving lengths of line hanging around (and I can then go and grab the rig out of a tree if possible). I also believe in keeping things as simple and possible. I think that as anglers we often overcomplicate the issue, cute fish, they can out-think this rig or get away with it so we go to adding too many pieces of metal around the hook that we really have no need for when all we need to change is the length of the hair we fish, and learn in some cases to fish and feed better to keep the fish interested in the area

I've said it before, and will probably say it again. The best and most simple rig a knotless knotted rig with a hook and hair on the end. It can be made of supple or stiff hooklink materials, braid, coated braid, mono, basically the works. It can then additionally be line aligned, shrunk tube with kicker or whatever you wish to call it... http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=55800