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  1. OldBoy

    Early Horseshoe days

    Not always like that Ian, A fantastic swim for floater fishing back in the day, before flying rats arrived 👍 Just if anyone is actually interested, back then it was an early fox bed chair, think an Argos sleeping bag and a blanket on top...... did me ok at the time 😟
    3 points
  2. Sounds like you @OldBoyare the one who would be more at home on the other forum As yonny said, if you've not got anything constructive to say, then its probably best you dont in future??? Thanks in advance
    2 points
  3. Sorry, English isn’t my first language, so I try my best to learn your fishing tactics by asking questions, since I can’t express myself freely in English. I often fish at unfamiliar venues hundreds of kilometres away from home, which is why I had to buy a bait boat fitted with sonar. Even so, I frequently draw a blank. Take today’s spot for example: the average depth here is 4 metres, with the deepest points hitting 6–7 metres, while the bank-side water is only 2 metres deep. I chose the transition zone between the 2-metre shallow shelf and the 4-metre channel drop-off.
    2 points
  4. The guy has given us a paragraph explaining what he's doing and is asking for advice to improve. Give him a break. It's no wonder this place is dead when newbies get jumped on for no reason whatsoever. If you can help him, do so. If you can't, just move on.
    2 points
  5. Is that not what a forum is for?
    2 points
  6. Be handy on the pit when the wind is up. You might have to dig them out so I can see what ancient relics look like 😂
    2 points
  7. Hmm! Your eyes and ears are your biggest advantage. My fishing for years was fishing waters big reservoirs and lakes, for a maximum of 48hours. I'd get home from work, frequently at 11pm at night, load up my gear and go fishing, arriving at the water between midnight and 1am. The picture is just 30acres of a 75acre water I fished for 10years. Even arriving that late I would often sit listening before deciding where to set up. To start with, the only baiting I would do is with PVA stringers or PVA bag of pellets, no other free bait. I don't use a bait boat, everything is by hand, throwing stick or spodding bait in. In fact I put most of my bait in either as I left, or on specific baiting sessions where I was prebaiting for later trips. Getting your lines the right distance is easy with distance sticks or walking it out. I don't worry about water temperature, if it is not iced over it is possible to catch. Fish will be where they want to be, they may follow wind lanes, move from weedbed to weedbed to natural food. As much as you ask, there really is no substitute for being on the water, while carp as a species tend to behave the same, every water is different and they have their own rules. Fish can follow a new wind, especially in summer if it is warm, but not so much in winter. As the wind grows stale they will move back off it. Don't immediately think that long range is the answer, many fish get caught from the margins. It is easier to see them, easier to bait for them, and easier to cast at them (quietly). Does your big baiting attract nuisance species? There is no point in piling bait in if other species eat everything before the carp find it. It is easier to cast in a PVA bag of bait and your hookbait, than stand spodding for 1hour if it is going to get pinched by something else.
    1 point
  8. After I reeled in my rig for the first time, I measured the lead weight and found its temperature was 22.8°C. I reckon this temperature is pretty suitable. Also, is my spot right on the transition between shallow and deep water? I’ve heard this kind of area is known as a fish highway/fish path.
    1 point
  9. Even though relevant laws and regulations are in place, many reservoirs are privately contracted. The contractors carry out illegal fishing using nets, and some rivers are frequently plagued by people using electric fishing devices. There are very few spots available for long-term shore camping fishing, and the viable ones are far away. In many areas, fishing rods fitted with reels are prohibited. Yet we have a strong passion for angling. We are still willing to give it a go even when fish stocks in a given water body are scarce. After my last post, I did walk around the reservoir with a monocular to scout the water. I am not sure whether I failed to identify fish bubbles or there were other factors, but I spotted no signs of fish activity at all. There are crucian carp close to the bank, yet I have never seen anyone land carp or other large fish from the shore. Perhaps the bankside areas are too disturbed and noisy.
    1 point
  10. S34MH1

    How to bait up effectively?

    I’ve learned all my fishing knowledge entirely online. I spend far more time studying fishing content on the internet than actually fishing on the water. That’s why I often get flustered and confused the moment I arrive at a fishery. I’ve come to realize that instead of second-guessing things on my own, I’d be better off asking seasoned anglers with plenty of real-world experience. They share advice with no commercial agenda, unlike me who only has book knowledge with no on-water practice.
    1 point
  11. I only use backleads when margin fishing to keep line pinned right down. I slide them on. Small ones around .5oz. captive backleads are something I’m looking at for a big pit im fishing. Still trying to work out if they’d actually be beneficial or not.
    1 point
  12. I have various weights of the fox captive back leads. i don't use them religiously but when I need them they are in a lead pouch in the bucket ready to go along with the solar flying back leads back from donkeys years ago when Richard walker was a boy lol. don’t strike when using them either just pick up the rod and let the line tighten and mostly they then drop off. if weed has gone around the gate and stops it opening a little flick of the rod usually sets it free.
    1 point
  13. Like @yonny I do not like using backleads, for the reasons he states. If you add a backlead, you add an extra angle, and angles reduce indication. I will only use them if there are boats on the water I'm fishing, where I need to get the line below the boat hulls or engine. When I do need to use them, it is the Gardner Tackle Captive Back lead for me. The majority of the time I can get the line running along the lakebed by sinking my rod tips below the surface. That is on reservoirs and lakes. Add in any distance above 40metres and the line runs along the lakebed anyway, unless there are features like gravel bars between your rod tips and the end tackle.
    1 point
  14. There are no hard/fast rules but generally you'd go heavier for longer distance work and lighter for close-in stuff. I personally am not a fan of back leads. They reduce sensitivity and if there's any weed or debris around they can cause big problems. I remember watching a lad having to land a fish in a boat a few years ago.... his back lead had snagged in the weed. Once released, the rig/fish was also weeded up. It was like a spiders web of line around his swim, looked like a nightmare. He lost the fish. If I had to use one, I'd use a flying back lead. The important thing is getting that last few feet pinned down.
    1 point
  15. OldBoy

    Making hydrolysates

    Also think groats, bit of an old skool thing, might also soak this stuff up too, if you can be bothered with it all now
    1 point
  16. I remember those days mate, "You can add these liquids to your spod mix, your particles, your powdered groundbait, your pellets." Agree with the groundbait, maybe glugging air dried boilies too, if anyone ever does that now? Tbh, otherwise a waste of time and effort...... Tin hat on! 👍
    1 point
  17. OldBoy

    Early Horseshoe days

    Just rooted out some old pics from the times I had on there when the CS took it over. I was one of the anglers who paid the money for them to actually purchase the lake, not sure what is going on there now tho. Wondering if there is anyone on here who actually fished it back in the day, so many good memories and people I met there. as ever time moves on and lost contact with everyone.... no Mobile phones and social media in those days
    1 point
  18. welder

    Early Horseshoe days

    I can see why it's called Winter Bay. Ian.
    1 point
  19. crusian

    West Ham

    There you are , Newmarket , David Sullivan gone ! . 😃
    1 point
  20. legend 👌🏻
    1 point
  21. I've not forgotten Jack, my mate is finding out for you. He did say it has got very tricky there but some decent sized fish to try for..
    1 point
  22. It's wonderful to obtain firsthand information and experience shared by European anglers. This is a fantastic forum with plenty of kind people.
    1 point
  23. As @yonny says, your eyes are the most important tackle item you have, although I do sometimes set up without seeing fish, on a 'hunch', in a swim I have been baiting or down to what I expect from the weather forecast. Although I do sometimes get it wrong that hunch often pays off. It may be that without realising it I have noticed some sort of indication that there are fish in the area. You may walk around and see obvious signs, coloured water, bubbles, fins breaking the surface, even rolling and jumping, they are obvious reasons to set up in an area. When I am in my swim, my binoculars are always close to hand, but I also put store on hearing fish. At night I spend plenty of time just listening to the lake while I read a book, you can hear fish crashing, which can give you the need to move or recast towards them. I don't own any of the technical equipment you mention. My bottom substrate composition finder is a marker float and lead. The lead on the marker rod, cast out and retrieved slowly tells me the lake bed, if it is weedy, silty, gravel, sand or clay. Each feels different. Cast the marker float and lead out. If the lead goes into silt it will plug, and need a fair pull to move, it then glides back but feeling 'sticky'. Hit a gravel patch it's like wheels going over a cobbled road, sand and clay is like a smooth road. Cast into clay, the lead may stick, but then pull and glide easily. Look at the lead when you have reeled in, clay and silt will often stick to the lead, weed will be caught up around it. Hit weed with a cast and it can stick, reel in, it feels like it is pulling back. Any of those spots you can normally find the depth by letting the float up to the surface, although weed is difficult. Do I think about bait? Yes and no! Sounds silly, but! If I am fishing over particles I don't normally want a big boilie, I want a bait the same sort of size as the particles, so maybe a 8-12mm boilie. If I'm fishing boilies I use the same boilie as my free baits. I know my boilies are acceptable, I know that the fish eat them. What works on one lake will normally work on another. To be honest, the main reason I change what boilies I use is down to baits becoming unavailable or occasionally just because it doesn't seem to be working. Originally when I joined Brackens Pool I was using Smokey Mackeral, and it worked. The company I was testing for gave me a new bait, I just could not get it to catch, so I I had to change. That new bait did work on other waters and was released, it just didn't work on Brackens. I was using KMG on Nazeing Meads and Alton Water and I loved it, it was catching me fish from both, and on Nazeing, possibly the garlic element was reducing crayfish interest (not sure, don't know, but I had less problems than with other fishmeal boilies), I took it to Botesdale, and started catching on it, then the bait company stopped making it. Again, I could not get confident in the new bait, hence a change to Shrimp, which I have caught on within 3 trips on a very temperamental water.
    1 point
  24. Just watch any video with terry Hearn in it Most of the time the fish are not on the bottom anyway so most of that can be discounted at times of the day watch for strange movements in weeds look for bubbles. look for bow waves. find one and you will usually find more once you know HOW to look. use the wind and follow it down or across the lake.
    1 point
  25. I have polarized sunglasses and binoculars. I’ve never tried observing from a tree, but thanks for bringing that up; it’s helped me see just how important this is.
    1 point
  26. A successful angler will always be on the fish and if that means spending more time looking/searching than fishing then so be it. If you're not on the fish then none of the other stuff (dissolved oxygen, rigs, tackle etc) matters.
    1 point
  27. Your eyes....... they're the most important piece of tackle you have. Pressure, depths, temps etc etc are all good starting points but I'll not fish until I see a carp to fish for. You cannot catch what is not in front of you.
    1 point
  28. newmarket

    West Ham

    I don’t like to talk about it much 😁 I’m not too bothered about division 2 to be honest mate , I’ve seen 6 now in my time , not sure we’ll be back anytime soon though with the Porno perv I’m charge . heres hoping Panorama broadcast their investigation soon and it gets him out . Devastated about those cheating G-its Varsenal winning the title though . I did laugh the other day when the chief cheat Gabriel put that penalty over the top though .
    1 point
  29. I used to love my Wavelock with the Fox Jekh Shelter overwrap. I think that I went mark 1 Fox EasyDome next. That is a Taverham Mills swim, and Delkim ST's and Fox Swingers as well.
    1 point
  30. And here you have raised very pertinent additional points. Any ingredient in a boilie is denatured, or liquids evaporate as they are boiled, less so if they are steamed. By denature, the food value is reduced, the protein level is lowered, and enzymes 'killed', even vitamins and minerals are reduced, especially those on the outside skin of the boilie. The inside of the bait may still not be 'cooked' on short boiling times*, as the full temperature takes time to get to the middle. So the only part of the boilie that still contains fully effective or as you nicely describe it, beneficial effects is the middle. The best way to get these liquids to continue working effectively is to soak or glug the baits after boiling. You can add these liquids to your spod mix, your particles, your powdered groundbait, your pellets. I don't know if anyone remembers the days of the CarpWorld/Nutrabaits Lac Fishabil trips, but Bill Cottams favourite mix I think was a bucket of birdfood, boilies crushed and whole with added Nutramino, Multimino PPc and condensed milk. This is where you have different effects in water, the solubility of the liquid, how it mixes in the lake. Some liquids will spread out across the lakebed, others will cloud lakebed to surface. The 'hope' is that the carp will follow the reverse track of the water current if any down to the source, and it creates a spot to investigate. *My aim when making my own bait was to have a solid skin, but a paste middle.
    1 point
  31. Hey 👋🏼, good luck in starting out with the carping. Over here we use relatively light tackle compared to gar fishing or shark fishing ect. There's no need to use things like steel traces. They have really soft mouths so they have to be played a little more carefully. The teeth they do have (pharyngeal teeth) are back in they're throat and more like human molars for crushing food items so no need to worry about steel traces. The aim is to make your rig look as inconspicuous as possible under the water. Rods are generally around 2.5lb - 3.5lb test curve Size 4 - 12 hooks depending on size of carp we are targeting. Most lakes around the UK don't hold many large fish(fish over 30lbs) Wide gape & curve shank being 2 popular hook types. Usually barbless or micro barbed so the fish has as little damage / stress as possible and can be unhooked / put back swiftly and safely after a pic or 2 if it's a nice one lol Hook lengths are usually around 12lb - 25lb and usually braid or fluorocarbon. Might want to go heavier if your fishing for 40lb+ fish. Hope this helps. Would be cool to see a few mexican carp Tight lines & Wet nets
    1 point
  32. I was banned too after questioning some crazy claims regarding SHB. It's refreshing to see some real feedback thou.
    1 point
  33. Of course it is it, obviously, but..... what next? What hook size, what bait? Think it might be more interesting if this guy actually explained the waters he is actually fishing tho tbh! Sadly no info on any of that, just more questions that seem to be a bit boring, doesn't give any details of anywhere that is being fished, that's my problem. If he is really in Asia, could probably share some good information on fishing there..... I suspect not though ☹️ Hopefully proved wrong 🤞
    0 points
  34. Hello mate, From a previous post of yours : I'm from Asia, and our holy grail is landing giant common carp, grass carp, and black carp Not sure why you keep posting on here with so many questions? sorry mods. Maybe you can share some of your actual fishing experiences so far that you need so much advice? 😂👍
    0 points
  35. OldBoy

    Early Horseshoe days

    Based in West Sussex mate, My main venue now is a certain group of club lakes off A27, have to say it's not what it used to be ...... sign of the times I guess, lovely big beds of pads ripped out and slowly turning into brown puddle lakes ☹️
    0 points
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