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Posted

It depends on how you attach the hook to the hooklink.

 

If I use a Kamasan B175, I knot the hook on 'properly' with a very precise shrink tube to form a bent hook effect. A stop bead on the hook shank, and a rig ring running up and down the shank.

 

The alternative way I fish it is with a Uni-knot loop with the pop-up tight to the hook and knotless knotted with a braid hooklink.

 

I do occasionally use a Chod hook, but again, I always have the bait tight to the shank.

 

I have found that inturned eyes on the hook, tend to give (me) better hook holds than out turned eye patterns.

 

Most of my pop-ups are fished close to the lakebed, only just above bottom rubbish.

Posted

 

 

Has anyone any thoughts about which is the best hook to use for a Pop Up  pls. ? 

 

Depends on the rig you are using to present the pop up's, for example multi rig/hinge stiff rig would use a chod style hook as where my current presentation using something similar to what Nick describes with a ring on the shank i use a wide gape style hook.

 

Different patterns are suited to different presentations  :)

Posted

Going back to the original title of the thread 

 

 

 

Krank Chod Hook or Chod Hook

 

I know people on here have had good experiences with the Krank hooks but for me the curve is to aggressive and they can cause mouth damage from the movement they create in the mouth (Struggling to find good evidence of this though).

 

So for me the 2 hooks are completely different.

Posted

Ah excellent Hutch ! .

 

I worded my original question clumsily which meant that  this thread went off at a slight - BUT very welcome ( because I learnt more stuff ) tangent .

 

I'm very interested to read what you say about mouth damage with Krank hooks ,  Hutch ,  as when I unintentionally caught a 2lbish Tench on a barbless Krank ( sz. 10 I think  )   its' mouth was full of blood when I came to unhook it .

I haven't had another incident like that again , and I wonder if like some of the published rigs and hooks Kranks  are more aimed at bigger Carp ? . 

Posted

Found this on Luke Moffatt's website for Graviers regarding hooks http://www.lukemoffatt.com/carp/carp_restrictions.shtml

 

 

 HOOK   GUIDE

Use of certain types of hooks are not allowed at  THE GRAVIERS , both on the Main lake, and the Long lake.

This rule has not been introduced to try to stop you from catching!

During my own investigations into the risk of damage caused to fishes mouths by certain hooks, the conclusion was made that certain hook patterns greatly increase the risk of tearing, double hooking, and failure to be ejected in the case of a cut-off or crack-off.

Hooks must be barbed... and have a straight shank .....Curved shank hooks are not allowed!

Curved shank hooks are not allowed at the Graviers...It's mainly the extreme curved patterns that can be very difficult to eject if left in a Carp's mouth, and can cause considerable mouth damage, depending on the hook hold.

It's difficult to have a "curve limit" on hooks, so for that reason all curved shank hooks are banned at the Graviers.

When choosing your hook, rather than try and find a border line acceptable hook...why don't you just get some straight shanked hooks and save all the messing around....it's much easier !

The pictures below are examples of  different hooks to help you understand which hooks are ok.....

                                         

                                                                                                  NOT ACCEPTED

                                                          thumbnail_10933_600.jpgthumbnail_01168_600_000.jpg468-centurion-2000-solo-kopie-lq-nahled-thumbnail_07743_600.jpg

                                                        The hook patterns shown here are the types not accepted

                   

                     The key characteristic of banned hooks is the curved shank / back of the hook....

                     Any hooks that have been modified, (bent) are also not allowed.

                     If you are unsure about your preferred hook pattern, please do not hesitate to ask.

Posted

Thanks Hutch , that's very interesting , and hopefully will be the catalyst for some healthy debate .

 

It certainly makes me want to give more thought to the Kamasan B175 - as recommended by Nick and Tim .

 

:wink:

Posted

Thanks Hutch , that's very interesting , and hopefully will be the catalyst for some healthy debate .

 

It certainly makes me want to give more thought to the Kamasan B175 - as recommended by Nick and Tim .

 

:wink:

Strangely enough, I think it's the B175 that was the original bent hook, a quite intentional bend being put in the shank of the hook. It is the mouth damage that bent hooks did that saw them being banned on most lakes.

 

Longer shanked hooks or an additional length created by tube seem to have a better hook up ratio than shorter shanked hooks.

I think the first shank extension on hooks was probably on the Savay rig? Just a lengthening of the shank with tube, then a sliding hair, but in many cases it was this shank extension that created more hook ups.

 

You then have the tubing being used to create the bent hook effect, but without the damaging effects of the actual bent hook.

Posted

 

You then have the tubing being used to create the bent hook effect, but without the damaging effects of the actual bent hook.

 

Is that method what they now term as a kicker Nick ?

Posted

 

 

Is that method what they now term as a kicker Nick ?

 

To me yes

 

 

Had to read that 3 times ! Surely if there after getting hooks ejected with a min of damage Barbless would be preferable ?

 

 

This one is down to people personal thoughts on the subject some think that barbed hooks have less chance of moving once the fish is hooked, as where barbless due to lack of barb have more chance of slipping and then rehooking or tearing the mouth of the fish.  No hard evidence either way, some folks on here might have run into this item before.  

Posted (edited)

To me yes

 

 

This one is down to people personal thoughts on the subject some think that barbed hooks have less chance of moving once the fish is hooked, as where barbless due to lack of barb have more chance of slipping and then rehooking or tearing the mouth of the fish.  No hard evidence either way, some folks on here might have run into this item before.  

 

Yer i see where your coming from Hutch, We need Barbed for hooking and subsequent landing, and Barbless if we snap up and the fish needs to expel the hook.

 

Least evil wins :)

Edited by snoozer
Posted

Yes I guess that is what is now a kicker. The other alternative to the bent hook was invented or credited to Jim Gibbinson (really worth reading his Carpworld articles, and books), the Line Aligner. It also created the same difficult to eject the hook effect that the bent hook did.

 

The inturned eye I think helps with the 'kicker', it sits more naturally. The line aligner I think works better with a straight shank hook.

 

Now I know the barbed and barbless debate has come up many times, but I have also seen and read of barbed hooks being ejected after a fish loss, dependant on certain conditions.

Ken Townley also wrote about this in Big Carp. A lost fish, trailing the hooklink and possibly a short length of line (with no added weight, lead or leadcore) can eject a barbed hook.

 

The barbless issue is that hook cuts deeper, and wobbles in the mouth during the fight, creating a bigger hole, and obviously more damage.

The barb holds the hook in place, preventing wobbling, therefore less damage. The barbed issue is the hook is harder to remove, and people sometimes rip it out as opposed to seeing it is deep hooked, and cutting the hook rather than trying to force it out.

 

 

 

Is that method what they now term as a kicker Nick ?

Hooks must be barbed !

 

Had to read that 3 times ! Surely if there after getting hooks ejected with a min of damage Barbless would be preferable ?

To me yes

 

 

 

This one is down to people personal thoughts on the subject some think that barbed hooks have less chance of moving once the fish is hooked, as where barbless due to lack of barb have more chance of slipping and then rehooking or tearing the mouth of the fish. No hard evidence either way, some folks on here might have run into this item before.

 

Posted

Yes I guess that is what is now a kicker. The other alternative to the bent hook was invented or credited to Jim Gibbinson (really worth reading his Carpworld articles, and books), the Line Aligner. It also created the same difficult to eject the hook effect that the bent hook did.

That man shaped the early years of my angling attended a talk by him blow my mind in those days (early 90's) :)

Posted

Oh good Barbed or Barbless :)

 

I used barbed hooks even on barbless only waters , which is nearly all that I have fished.

 

I'd rather be kicked off a lake than cause mouth damage to a fishy , though having said that , the Bailiffs on my water know I use em and why and they are quite happy for me to do so as they have seen the way I unhook fish .

 

:)

Posted

Got to say I like both the korda krank hooks, and use them for most of my rigs. I've not noticed any excessive mouth damage, but have found they do hold in well. I find it difficult to agree with "all curve shanks cause damage" as surely there would be a debate much like the barbed or barbless?

 

Crusian I would reccomend the krank choddy for pop ups.

 

Barbed v barbless I tend to use barbless mostly either due to rules or thinking they are easier for fish to loose if line snaps

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