salokcinnodrog

Andy, Please forgive me for making assumptions, but from the posts of yours I have read, you are an angler who watches, looks, understands and comes to sensible conclusions, and are interested in the history. You don't appear to be a 'catch at all costs' angler, but obviously you want to catch, if possible from a normal water. Sadly many modern anglers don't have the same ethics as you show, they don't care for the history or the fish, just treating them as numbers.

Cor! I can honestly go back some time with my Carp rods. As a 'yoof', I remember a twin tip ledger rod being used for carp, brilliant for carp to double figures and big tench, then I bought a Daiwa Specimen rod. My next purchase was a pair of 2.5lb North Westerns, which were built by John Wilson, used for carp and pike until one was stolen along with some of my other gear from my shed. I must have kept one in my room, which is why that wasn't stolen. The next set were Century Armalite Mk.l's in 2.25lb. I rebuilt these myself going down to 5 rings plus tip, and learnt to cast with Abu Cardinals, then Shimano Baitrunner 4000's to over 120yards with 8lb Sylcast line and shockleaders. I loved those rods until they were traded in. From that I went to Armalite Mk.ll's in 2.75lb, again I rebuilt them to my spec's and paired them with 6010's, the same size reel, just new numbering, sadly another set of rods that were stolen. When I bought my Century 2.75lb SP's I started with 6010's, but soon switched to Shimano Aerlex's. Another set of rods I loved, for casting and playing fish on. I seriously wish I didn't sell them to a mate when I bought my Century NG's, which I had built for me to my specifications at Century, with the ball rest on the butt, which became standard on all NG's. The NG's are not a long distance casting rod, although 100metres is possible. I did have a set of 3 FMJ's, a beast of a casting rod, 3-5oz casting weight, but seriously heavy for fish playing. I still own the NG's, but eventually got a set of Rod Hutchinson The Ones in 3.25lb for long casting on the Lagoons. I am not so keen on them strangely, although they are growing on me. Gaz mentions surface fishing, I had a Daiwa Pro Specialist 11.6 1.5lb rod for that, lovely rod, but after I stupidly broke the tip I have bought a Shakespeare Barbel rod which gets used for that as well as chub and roach fishing.

For years I have a specific Marker rod, albeit my original Marker rod was a North Western 2.5lb carp rod, one of a pair that wasn't nicked. When we were allowed to use 3 rods at Taverham I put this rod into carp fishing alongside my Armalites (mk.l's). My Century M1 2.75lb Test curve marker rod, I have kept specifically as a marker rod, mainly because it is the only rod I have that is equipped with braid on the reel. Saying that, after what must be 10years it is getting soft, and I am now struggling to hit 100metres with it. It is probably not helped by the Korda Marker floats needing such a big lead to feel the bottom; 3.5-4oz compared to 3oz maximum with an ESP Mini marker. The Korda float is so big, and buoyant it lifts any lighter lead than that. I have noticed my marker casting distances decrease over the past few years. I reckon the M1 will get pressed into service as another fishing rod for floaters on the lake for carp with a controller. Guess that means I'll have to buy a new marker rod😖😱😳😉

I have had a couple of 5's. One from The Wensum and one from The Gipping. I haven't seen a Gipping 5 for a few years, the numbers of fish and weight seems to have dropped, and I think our furry friends are partly to blame.

Gipping Mate. Total tackle, rod, reel and landing net, a bucket of dog biscuits, small tackle carry with hooklink material and a couple of packs of hooks, and my scales and sling.

From what I can gather it was legit and above board. Jeremy Evans (Jemsue) I think has more detail on his FB page (on my friends list if you aren't), and the posts he has made about it. I have made that point for ages about getting fish from only clean stock, be that your own breeding programme or certified fish farms. After some of the shenanigans with some fish farms or suppliers though, I would double check their integrity totally. I know some who were buying infected fish from abroad, then bringing them into UK and dropping them in lakes, complete with apparent Section 30's.

I always understood that fish that survived KHV were carriers themselves, and could infect other fish. I think To get rid of KHV totally from a water it has to be drained, the bottom limed and allowed to stand fallow, and can't be restocked for 2 years. This allowing fish movement from a water that was even suspected of having KHV in the past is just plain stupid, and shows how easy it to transfer disease from water to water. That is infected fish from 10years ago, not just a year or so! It is not hard to look at past records of KHV outbreaks, probably most of them are on EA website, or even here, (😉😅)

2 hours, time for A bit of jungle stalking with freelined dog biscuits for a couple of 3lb chub

This may interest you: I have saved it as a pic, I do know though it can be read, or correctly, my tired eyes were able to focus on it

While I totally agree that dipping mats, nets and slings can help, drying them out totally is also a requirement, and not flitting from venue to venue does also help as in most British summers it is rare to get good enough hot dry weather and UV light to kill the virus. This year is an exception! Another part of the problem is of course fish movement, legal and illegal. I have written in the past about fish being moved from fishery to fishery by ignorant 'anglers', fish theft or even 'legitimate' movements within a club. I have seen carp moved from a small park lake into a syndicate lake (now lost to most anglers), seen fish moved from the river Gipping and put elsewhere, into some quite high profile fisheries (not under current managements approval I must add) as well as other local lakes. These fish movement comments have made me enemies locally as I have stood up to those doing it, and named and shamed them locally and nationally.

I absolutely love my P1 pod, it is the danglies. For years I was happy with a pod I could use as goalpost buzzer bars with banksticks or pod, but now the P1 does everything. The knurled pieces, loosen and tighten on the leg angle allowing 180 degrees of movement, meaning you can get totally level in conjunction with P1 banksticks provided. You do have to purchase the additional buzzer bars, so it is not quite complete, but they are definitely worth the money. The bite alarms can be tightened down, then the positive lock means they face the correct way. You may find, if you abuse your gear like I do, the ends of the buzz bars can become wobbly, in the centre inside is an allen key locking pin that will just need tightening up. One thing I will say, it can be worth getting a longer pair of banksticks in case you need to extend and lift the front to get over weed, or the rear to dip tips as I found myself this week to get under boats and weed.

Kings Lynn is quite a way out, but my answer would be a drive back towards Norwich to look at Taverham Mills on the a1067 down Sandy Lane at Taverham on the edge of Norwich. Other than that, same area, Shallowbrook at Costessey. You also have Charity Lakes at Great Witchingham, near Dinosaur adventure a bit further out towards Dereham, but I am not sure of ticket status.

It is basically a Multi rig, but with an extended hair to put multiple bottom baits on rather than a standard bottom bait. I use it a bit on Nazeing and had some good fish on it, usually with around 3 8mm wooden balls on the hair, or at times a 20mm bottom ball, a 15mm pop-up and a meshed bait. http://anglinglines.com/blog/how-to-the-kebab-rig/

I had that happen Wednesday evening, thought I was really onto a winner, but no joy. All that happened is that loads of weed floated up to the surface. When the ducks and coots started pecking into it, and it drifted into my swim, I chucked my spomb rod out to clear some of it away, and all the weed was filled with my previous nights particles. I think that the weed was just breaking away, no fish, just sheer amount of it.

I don't usually get bugged with scratchy itchy bites, although the annoyance of the little buzz just next to your ear as you are about to fall asleep really does do my head in. Last night I had a mosquito hunt and clapped them for their performance, along with a slow thumb move as they landed on the brolly. The inside now looks like something out of Apocolypse😖❗️ Permethrin can be sprayed on clothing, in fact modern army combat clothing is permethrin treated. If the insects are bad, then I usually use Expedition as mentioned above or Repel 55 as the picture

Recommendations are very important, I have bought a few lines on manufacturers bumpf, some on looks and a few on recommendations. While recommendations or reviews are very important, and the most honest review is usually that on the internet forum, I would say, that because we fish differently, some things just don't work for every angler. Lines I have bought on manufacturers review include Nash Bullet (original), Berkley Big Game, Ultima, and Daiwa Sensor, actually Simon Wheeler, the reps advice. The first three, I would give back to the manufacturer and tell them to try again, they were that bad.😖💩 Daiwa Sensor, I would happily use again at any time.👍 Gardner Pro Blend, I was asked by Richard Gardner to give a test on a spool he sent me, basically test to destruction, tell him the results, and write an honest review on it. I did (somewhere on here is the review) with knot strengths, breaking strain, diameter tests, abrasion test, the works. I still use that line happily. P-line Floroclear, I saw (or didn't) on a stand at 5lakes, being demonstrated in a tank of water. In water the line was not visible; I could see the hook, and bait, the swivel but not the line. It got put on the rods in a successful attempt to get me away from using leadcore* * (See various arguments on it, me now against its use)

I use two lines now, P-line floroclear, and Gardner Pro blend in light or dark to match the lake water colour. I know I can rely on either of them. For years I used Daiwa Sensor in brown, and again, I would know I could rely on it. The Gardner and Daiwa are budget priced lines that outperform most more expensive lines.

Always braid with a shockleader for the marker rod. The feel of features with braid is a whole lot better

Couple of reasons I do it: While I am not a big caster, I have cracked off spods straight through on 50lb braid with a miscast. The lack of stretch means if you do mistime it, or have to stop the cast, the line just 'pings'. I can't remember which fishery it was, but on a friends facebook post, the fishery found the same thing, numbers of cracked off spombs attached to braid only. I have also had braid on a proper spod rod wear grooves in the tip and butt rings. I do also like my fingers, and braid on a miscast can cut deeply. One thing I will say using a standard carp reel, is that using a baitrunner (or even fighting drag) to pull line off the spool as you get your depths is useful.

I use 15lb mono with a 50lb shockleader for spodding. In fact I use 'last years' mono which I wind off my fishing reel onto the spod reel, then tie on new shockleader. As for marker reel, I use the same type of reel for marker as I use for my fishing, admittedly a 7000 Beastmaster, but for years it was an old Shimano 4000 size baitrunner, same size as I used for fishing. That would be equivalent to a modern 6000 size baitrunner.

I'm wondering how much more visible a fluorocarbon coated line is made by a coating of sediment from a lake. When I changed the line on my reels, you could see and feel the sediment on the line, dry and powdery, with a whitish coating. In the water, obviously, it is not dry, but does it stick out on the line? Does it stick in between trips, or does it get washed off, then recoat it? I tend to reel in between my fingers a few times, and give my line a coating of Greased Lightning every now and again, which I think reduces the sediment sticking for a while.

Hence my post about using marker float and lead😉 Years ago, I did a basic map for Suffolk Water Park, all marker float and lead. I did a complete map of Earith Virginia syndicate, strangely enough, which I sent Guddler a copy.

The honest answer is I have never used a fish finder, well with the exception of my own eyes. I have seen Guddler, an old member on here, using a finder attached to his radio control boat at Suffolk Water Park use one to work out the lakebed. That is he got the features mapped out for him on the screen, brilliant, could save a lot of time if you are not marker float and lead orientated. However, it does not tell you where the fish will come in to feed, or even the exact feeding spots😉 I have also had the pleasure of being able to go out in a boat to find features and map a lake, rowing over fish, watching their (occasional non) reaction, even lowering baits in from the boat. For years, pike anglers have been using fish finders on boats, discovering large shapes, fish in midwater, and it can give an idea where the fish are, although a pike resting midwater, it can take a lot of bait finding what it wants, or even watching it ignore everything. Your eyes can tell you so much, from slight swirls, to shows like rolling, coloured water, or even real jumping. Technology is brilliant, but the Mark l eyeball is more brillianter😖😉😅🐟

I don't know what the fault is. On the post section you have a lower section that says 'click to choose files', below that is accepted file types, gif, jpeg, jpe, jpe, png and Max total size 8MB. Click to choose files on ipad and it brings up where the pictures are stored, 'tick' the pics, then 'done' and they will or should upload. If your wifi, data link (phone internet connection) or broadband is slow or pauses, then it can fail to upload. The other way is to go back to third party hosting, having a web site store your pictures, then adding in the picture link as an 'img' link

They can be temperamental. You may need to 'grease' up the stem to stop it 'sticking' to the water. Mind you, casting an adjustable zig rig can be awkward to cast, but definitely less so than an 8 foot hooklink!