salokcinnodrog

My Spomb is hit the marker distance, clipped up and then sorted. I do prefer mono on the Spod/Spomb rod.😉

Can be a very good idea. Google a place can throw up some very interesting maps or satellite images. Does anyone remember this one?

There is a 'but' in that: all animals require nutrition, be it vitamins and minerals, protein, fats and carbohydrates. Bread is a ball of carbohydrate, pretty much instant energy; the first nutritional requirement to be fulfilled is energy. Carp will eat most things, or try them. Forget the word bait for a minute, change it for food. There you have the nutritional requirement, protein, fats, carbohydrates. If you can provide a food that the carp can eat long term, you are supplying (as an example) every week, then they may actively search it out. In fact, you can prove this with farm fish, throwing pellets in, they are ready and waiting, and will eat them every time. No fishing pressure, but a food. Now swap it back in as bait. A fair few years ago at Taverham I baited up a fishmeal bait every day in a particular spot and time. (The joys of running the place). There were fish that were there almost every day, and feeding as soon as the boilies went in. I could drop boilies in on top of them, and they ripped the bottom up. Another area I baited regularly, the carp would feed heavily in the area, not just my bait, but tearing up the bottom for bloodworm as well. I could fish this bait in pretty much every swim, and know the carp would take it readily if they found it. Now we come to why carp may stop taking a particular boilie. You simply aren't feeding enough to get them to eat comfortably. They have become wary. They know the food is good, but if every time they eat it a big predator hooks them, stresses them out and lifts them out of the water, may start to leave it. Prebaiting again regularly may be enough to get them feeding and taking the bait as food again, or in many anglers cases it is the reason to change baits. I have tried using baits made from liquidised maggots, casters and worms. The real thing produces more fish than boilies, but small fish can be a nuisance.

Same here. While fishing Nazeing I would sit looking at pictures of 16.11, going through the times of year she came out and what swims she was caught from. Never got close. Other people caught her fairly quickly, I fished the lagoons for 5 years and avoided her and the other 40's. I caught other fish, but nothing over 32. I fished the same as them, no big fish. I did my own thing, same result. I think I posted it on here before, I fished Bromeswell one day, was chuffed to bits with a carp going just into double figures. I fished Nazeing for a couple of nights, and I caught a 10lb mirror, which was a let down. The other thing that may be relevant is that I don't often fish waters for specific fish, Nazeing was an exception, but even there almost any fish was a good fish. My best session on there was a winter session, where I had walked around before I started. 3 20's and a double after the lagoons thawed, I was pretty sure I had found fish when I set up.

I am humming and haa'ing about splitting this topic up as Elmo and Yonny have put in a very important view, that I follow. I go onto almost every water, even every session, knowing I will catch. My confidence is in my bait, which I know works, I know my rigs are effective. That does not mean that I am using the most up to date super fashionable rig, but that I can find the fish, put my rig in front of them and create a feeding situation that works to get them to take my hookbait. Strangely at Nazeing, on The Central and South, at times I think I was not confident in what I was doing. I was beaten before I arrived. Yet the times I caught I had had a good walk round, seen fish and set up on them. I wasn't able to spend time there when I wasn't fishing, so may have missed out. On Alton, I didn't necessarily see them, but somehow knew I had got it right, possibly because I had spent so much time round there. It is 5miles from my home compared to 70.

No point in being unhappy, it doesn't get you anywhere, says the person who can suffer from severe depression😖😉 Single, reckon most of the time that is better for me. Work, surviving, got a few things on the burner, one of which could see me at my last place of work, even if it is a step down in responsibility, but possibly going onwards and upwards again. Friends, that is good, related to fishing, a long time fishing buddy and I got into the syndicate we both wanted. I was able to repay a long time favour. Years ago when I was struggling he lent me the money to join Earith, which he allowed me to pay back over time, think it took me 18months for £300. This year as he is self employed and not earning until the end of August, I was able to pay his syndicate fees, which I'm not in any hurry for, when it comes it come, if it does. (Not being funny, but I am not worried if he doesn't pay it back). Fishing, I do have to wait until 1st September to get carp fishing on the syndicate, but I have been looking at the Wensum, and keeping in touch with a couple of big barbel areas. Like Elmo I find this coronavirus rationale boring, along with the disagreements mask or no mask, lockdown or freedom. You make a point and keyboard warriors are looking to cause trouble. I have had to work with it. Hygiene has been a way of life, tissue or napkin over face when sneezing or coughing, washing hands after binning said tissue, before serving every customer, in the restaurant or bar, social distancing in the restaurant and bar.

No Mate, that is the length I found worked for me on that water. I would say the fish were regularly pressured and fished for.

I would play around with inline leads, and found that rubber tulip beads would hold better than the Korda insert. A couple of manufacturers rubber buffer beads also hold inside the lead. I did go through a stage of neoprene sleeving on the (original) Korda stiff plastic insert to hold onto the swivel. This is a rubber tulip bead in an inline lead. Think that holds pretty well, I'm lifting the lead up myself from the worktop.

Totally slack line, or as slack as you can get it. I cast out, and tighten to the lead, which sounds wrong, then I put the rod tip under water, pull line off the spool as I get the rod on the buzzer, keeping the tip under water until the last second of lifting onto rest, with as much slack as possible. I put indicator on, knowing it will pull slack out of the water, so pull more line off reel, until indicator goes straight down. The line after I have finished will be running over every rod ring, and should be dropping straight down from the rod tip. It may take a while for the line to sink, and settle, so you may need to pull a little more line off the reel a couple of times. If your indicator starts lifting you will see you need to give a bit more slack.

Even if you 'land' on gravel there is often a layer of silt on it. The lead plugs in, you drag it free, then you tighten the line. Best bet is to cast, gently reel in, slowly, until the line tightens, do NOT move the lead.

Don't forget that water transmits vibration differently to air😉 I watched the semi-fixed lead, and the inline lead that pulled off the swivel; neither of them is a true running set-up. Got bored at that point as what happens on the bank is not what happens underwater. A true running lead needs to be fished slack line, and an inline lead has some increased resistance over a run ring, more so on tubing! You can get single bleeps from (small) fish hitting the line hanging from the rod tip. I found with running leads I got a couple of bleeps then a screamer. My preferred way to fish a running lead with slack line is put the line in a clip above the reel as well. Thought I still had a pic hanging around. This was my running lead on tubing set-up I used on Nazeing, and still use now.

I fish running rigs both with or without tubing. I tend to use tubing when there are things that can rub and frag the line down near the lead. The tubing protects the line. If the water in the swim is clear, block, snag or gravel free then I will fish with no tubing. I don't buy (😁) into tubing 'protecting fish', it was originally used to prevent tangles with softer hooklink materials, and is called anti-tangle tubing for that reason. I do not know which tackle brand it was who started advertising or promoting it as fish protection, but in over 30 years of carp fishing I have not seen mono line cut a fish or lift a scale. If any fish was going to have a scale lifted, I think it would be a big scaly mirror where scales are prominent. A common has its scales overlapping and smooth. If you buy Korum Run Rings, I seem to think they do come with silicone tubing to cover the link clip

Welcome to Carp.com. I have moved this into UK Where to fish section of the forum. I did have a quick look at existing threads, but as you said, there is no up to date information.

I live in Suffolk, near the River Gipping, and that is low and clear. Most fish are in the streamier areas, where the oxygen is higher. I have been up to the River Wensum in Norfolk a few times recently after I spotted a couple of large barbel in an unknown area. The mills and weirs are low, just downstream of Hellesdon Mill is very shallow, not helped by the mill having flow diverted as work is being carried out. The main flow is coming from the Tud downstream of the mill. We really need some consistent rain to get the flows going again, and we need the rivers to hold their levels rather than the pressure weirs just allowing any excess to rush out.

Excellent result. The nice thing is your thinking solved your problems and you worked out what to do.

I have had a Solar Sod Pod and have the P1 Pod. The original Sod pod is good, lasts for years, and still make money when sold, because they last. However as you said, stability with 3 rods is always a worry on a single central buzzer bar. The P1 pod has a wider double locking system, but you do have to buy the buzzer bars separately. From looking at the Worldwide compared to the P1, the difference is the legs are longer; I had already got longer sticks so I could make it higher. Quality of Solar gear is high, you know it will last

I went through a stage of having fluoro yellow, fluoro green, fluoro pink, orange, white, purple, or yellow as the fish in the lake I was fishing at the time would change what they wanted or would accept week to week or session to session. In one winter for a couple of weeks, the working pop-up was Green Zing, fluoro green, then it was Pineapple in fluoro yellow, a couple of weeks of popped up sweetcorn, then Monster Crab in orange on one rod, and Squid and Octopus in pink on the other, and orange Tutti Frutti produced the occasional fish. The Strawberry ice cream in red failed to catch, The Secret in purple caught a few, then all of a sudden halfway through a week session in winter, coloured pop-ups stopped working and from then on every fish came to Smokey Mackeral food source bottom baits. When I moved onto Nazeing I simplified my baits; Squid and Octopus (pink) and Monster Crab (orange) were close to the Smokey Mackeral in terms of smell, so I used them as the top bait on a snowman, and caught regularly on that, along with a dark red Garlic Oil and Spice combination of my own, used as pop-up topper or as pop-up. Bromeswell in spring last year, the pop-ups that worked were The Secret, and Pineapple Juice. On the reservoir last season I just carried my Garlic Spice combination, and fished that on one rod. If I caught on my food source bottom bait, (KMG) I didn't catch on the pop-up, and if I caught on the pop-up I didn't catch on the bottom bait. A few fish this year have come on snowman baits, a pink KMG pop-up over a KMG bottom bait. You can either get every flavour or colour combination going, and keep chopping and changing, until you find what works, although fluoro yellow Pineapple are a pretty good cert on many waters, possibly confusing the heck out of yourself, or just get a couple of pop-ups, maybe one to match your bottom bait and that pineapple, and have faith.

I'm not one for glugging baits or hook sharpening. My view is the hook is straight out of the packet, it is sharp enough. There is a but in there, I use Gardner Muggas and Solar 101's, they are sharp from the pack, and they will penetrate my finger, and the carps mouth. As for glugging or soaking baits, I have not done so in goo or other soak for years. I know my hookbait work on runs waters, and my harder venues.

The few trips after I have had after lockdown has been fishing over hemp with boilies. Around 5-10litres of hemp would go in when I arrived, and I would fish over it with boilies on the hook for 3 or 4 days. The only extra baiting up was done with boilies on PVA stringers.

I gave up believing the amount on the spools. On my 10000 Baitrunners I have loaded straight onto the reel spool. On my Beastmasters I have some backing line. Backing line is usually just 'last' years line, and then when I strip the old line off I just go as far as the backing. At some point I must have been sad enough to work out that a bulk spool spread across 3 reels and I loaded the original backing so that it filled exactly. That bulk spool will give you 3 reels, plus leftover, so you might as well use it at.

Stick to one water, preferably a fairly easy one. Find out what works. It could be pellets, particles or groundbait with a boilie on the hook. Stick to one rig, stick to one bait. I look at every single session, every trip, on every water. If I blank it is what am I doing wrong? If I catch it is what can I do better? In most cases we screw up our chances on getting into the swim. We pile bait in, sit on it, and have given the fish all the food they need to take their time to eat. The weather at the moment is warm, so warm that the fish may not be comfortable feeding. It can be better to just put out single hookbaits, maybe a small PVA mesh or bag. It may even be that right now the way to catch on some waters is floater fish at dawn or as the day cools down. In terms of rigs, a knotless knot rig will still catch most fish. Don't get confused with Ronnie Rigs, German rig, 360 or whatever. Put your rig where the fish are, you can find them. It may be that you need to go to an easier water to catch a few fish

I was going to make a comment before reading your last post, I'm glad I held back for a change😖😉 My honest answer is many rigs are sold just to sell more tackle for tackle brands, and confuse anglers, however you have a genuine reason for buying ready made rigs. I would still buy just a standard line aligned hair rig for bottom baits or D-rig for pop-ups. There are a couple of ways of attaching bait to the swivel: Put a pop-up or bottom boilie on a baiting needle, A pellet band through the swivel, then the pellet band through itself, then put the boilie on the band and stop it with a boilie stop. Or you could tie a pop-up to it.

As much as I like 'rare' shaped hookbaits, I do tend to just grab a boilie out of the bag and stick it on the hook, simply because I now get my bait direct from RH rather than make my own. I have caught on various specials; massive cube boilies, sausages boiled then cut into discs, boilie mix rolled flat and then cut with a playdoh cutter (Bart Simpson), cut down boilies, uncooked air dried boilie mix, then obviously the boiled brick cut into cubes.

I'm a Gardner Pro fan myself. Used it for a few years now with no problems

I did used to turn my own casters in the past, although 2 pints of maggots would only give me 1/2-3/4 pint. Your tinned products should still be good. I was watching a programme on TV a few weeks ago, a tin of sardines from the 1960's was opened and found to be still edible with no loss of nutrition or taste after scientific testing.