salokcinnodrog

I have rempved some links from these posts Pleaase remember :

You can grease the hooklink to make it float (mucilin or vaseline), although the last little bit near the hook you may want to sink anyway I do have a successful little rig/hook set-up that the line is held above the water near the hook with a controller or freeline set-up It was kind of featured in a ACF magazine article recently anyway , although I do it slightly differently

I have a question on this and it bugs me. So Lead weights are banned above size 8 shot and below 1ounce, so how come we use Lead wire to wrap around the hooklink or for pop-ups? To be honest because of this I've started confusing myself, but also rubbing hooklinks in putty to weight them down rather than putting lead wire around them.

Which is why: With a paternoster you do have to strike the hook in. It is NOT a self hooking rig.

The high point of the tubing I always make face forward. So the high point of the tubing is on the hookpoint side. Fishingaddict, I will disagree with you. It doesn't always, and I know that for a fact, cos I actually get in the water to check. I lost 2 fish this week where the hook hadn't flipped round properly. I will state it may also depends on hook size, but in the case this week I was using size6 Centurions, where I hadn't had a problem previously, but different fish can deal with different rigs in different ways

Not sure how much was covered in that Complicated Rigs thread about Paternosters, so I'll say I tend to use 8lb Line for the Lead link, but to make sure that it is a Weak link I normally tie a couple of overhand knots in it. If you make an overhand loop knot at either end and have either a Run Ring or swivel able to go up and down the Mainline, then you can change the Lead or even the Whole Lead link and go back to a Running Lead. Length will usually be about 20centimetres long for me, but it is easy to play around with to find what works best for you. Hooklinks I tend to stick to what I normally use, Braid or coated braid, unless I'm fishing for Tench or Bream then I go back to Mono (don't ask, don't know why ). The whole lot is normally pretty tangle free, especially with a PVA Bag, or even Mesh. What I tend to do with Mesh is to stick the hook in the end, and then at the other end where I can't get an overhand knot tight I Split the PVA Down, so that I can overhand knot the 2 "flaps", I think I put a better description on 1 of the PVA threads somewhere. (probably on this: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=27183 )

Basil was landed at over 40lb on 6lb line. You've probably now discovered why it is better to tie your own rigs. If its anyones fault then if you lose a fish it is only your own. There are a fair number of threads on questions about tying your own rigs or whether to buy Ready Made, and my answer is always the same. Buy one to learn, then make them yourself. You cannot change what you have with a Ready Tied, except shorten it. Yet how you fish you may need to lengthen the rig or hair yourself, so by being able to tie your own you can adapt what you are doing.

That to me is the best answer so far,and if more people thought like that it would make my job on riggy waters far harder. Yes we all know that tackle catches anglers,however it also catches fish. You need to taylor your gear to where you fish,simple realy Frank, Just for you and how far I tailor my rigs to the lakebed. This is from the lake today. The straight (ish) line 90 degrees to the base of the pic is actually a reed stem. The lake was a bit murky, it is normally a brownish peaty hue, so this pic is not too clear, even if only taken from a metre away. The only thing that you can possibly make out is the red blob of a Hookbait. The Rig itself is toatlly camouflaged into the bottom. Correction I can actually make out the lead! You actualy got yourself out on the bank Nick I new this without seeing the photo,how?well I know you are one of the few thinking anglers out there. My point earlyer was I agreed with you on that at some point be prepaired to be different. This cannot be done if you dont have the equipment to be different. I know 100% if anybody fishes an unfished water with a standard hair rig setup,then they will truely reap the rewards. However if you try the same setup on a heaverly fished water with big carp,then you will fail the majority of the time. I fish some waters where the carp have seen everything,if you fish with any of the rigs you see in the mags/books/forums etc you will catch,but not regulary. If you sit back and think, then use materials and setups you know the carp have not seen before you will catch on a regular basis. In the past few years I have proved this time and time again. Indeed I did, and half knackered myself in the process. Was at work in London for 10am ish, and back to Ipswich in time for 7pm. Quick dinner and fishing by 9pm (that included getting to the lake) Problem is I wasn't different enough and suffered 2 hookpulls on standard Knotless Knot tied rigs. Changed the hair length between hookpulls, (it was on the same rod ), or actually removed 1 of the baits so that I had a longer hair. The hook wasn't turning in properly, so I need to adapt what I'm doing. Already got the rigs tied, but I wanted to be sure that what was happening was a hook turning problem rather than just "1 off" hookpull.

From the search facility: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=36311&highlight=merrington Posting on a subject brings it back to the top of the section

That to me is the best answer so far,and if more people thought like that it would make my job on riggy waters far harder. Yes we all know that tackle catches anglers,however it also catches fish. You need to taylor your gear to where you fish,simple realy Frank, Just for you and how far I tailor my rigs to the lakebed. This is from the lake today. The straight (ish) line 90 degrees to the base of the pic is actually a reed stem. The lake was a bit murky, it is normally a brownish peaty hue, so this pic is not too clear, even if only taken from a metre away. The only thing that you can possibly make out is the red blob of a Hookbait. The Rig itself is toatlly camouflaged into the bottom. Correction I can actually make out the lead!

It seems that text talk is becoming the norm on here now. I wouldn't even bother answering a post when the person writing can't be bothered to use the English language It was a year ago that the post was made And must of been one I missed as even then if I did see it I would have deleted it!

Suggestion for you, go to the Advanced Carp Fishing section, and read through a thread called "Complicated Rigs": http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=9536 It can be a bit heavy at times and some of us really went into it, rig length, how fish feed, rig lengths, simple or complicated, lead set-up the works. 6 pages of what may be very thought provoking ideas and thoughts

It may well be the type of knot you used. Different materials require different knots. Some monos will accept a Blood Knot, yet try that with most fluoros and it will snap every time. It may well be that the figure of 8 knot is not suitable for Dacron, you may have to find an alternative. What who anyone suggest and I will try it, I really like the material except the breakages , so if I can continue to use I would be happy Have a look at splicing, I think from memory that Dacron can be spliced Also the Grinner or Uni knot for Dacron

It may well be the type of knot you used. Different materials require different knots. Some monos will accept a Blood Knot, yet try that with most fluoros and it will snap every time. It may well be that the figure of 8 knot is not suitable for Dacron, you may have to find an alternative.

That may work out more expensive! With Ready Made (shop bought) rigs you can not change the things that you may need to to put fish on the bank. Learn to tie your own as quickly as possible The things you need to change are usually the rig length or the hair length. You may be able to shorten a shop bought/ready made rig rig, but you sure as heck can't lengthen it. If you are losing fish to hookpulls or hooking them in the extremity of the lip, then you will likely need to lengthen a rig or hair. I find braid actually easier to tie knots with because it is more supple, and I haven't changed how I tie my rigs in over 16years.

How far down south? I believe if you type in Linear as a search then you will come up with some info, (good and bad). You also have various waters in Norfolk that have been posted on: Swangey, Taverham Mills, Catch 22, Waveney valley, it may be worth a search for them

For as long as I can remember, Ouchthathirt has had the rolling eyes at the end as his signature When I used it I found the ESP the best Leadcore

I know that in the Where to fish A-Z Sticky there is a phone number: Carrow Row Farm Lakes.....Titchfield, Hampshire.....01329845102 It may or may not be helpful

Because if used with a heavy lead they also give added benefits that you'll know all about. I'll get back in my cave! i fish running leads and no lead core i saw the danger 12 months before fisheries started banning it ,my weak link is the knot from hooklink to swivel , hope you will put the carps welfare first now chaps and fall in line behind the Kent carpers who are pioneering the bans or don't you read the posts on carp welfare. If you wish to debate Lead Clips, then find a thread devoted to the Supposed Safety Clip like this one: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=36335&highlight=lead+clips This thread is devoted to the Beachcaster set-up and will stay that way!

its not fair to assume people would accept a free ticket to fish anywhere there are places and people i would not fish or fish with on principal if you offered to pay me, this point has now been removed 3 times without anyone telling me why , Joe and i know each other we are friends we pm each other regularly, we just dasagree over this one small point yet this post has been removed 3 times what is so offensive or frightening about it , if your going to remove it again please have the curtisy to explain why The reason it was removed is because there was no explanation as to why you wouldn't fish it!

I felt this thread was starting to get too personal. My views are the same, regardless of venue. As for the other thread link, i can't say. I wasn't a mod when that started. If you read the other thread the posts on bad venues are normally pretty constructive with a reason or series of reasons why a venue is bad. Fish with Scabs on may be caused by a number of reasons. Immediately after spawning the fish are covered in cuts and sores, is that their fault? Or yours for fishing for them? Give them time to recover adn a WEEK later they will have pretty much healed. That is on every water. I will gladly leave any post with CONSTRUCTIVE CRITICISM, but any that are just slagging off someone or something I will delete. I have removed a series of posts that are extremely personal and denigrating without reason, and got miles off topic. I even dealt with the Slagging off off why a Topic was removed. Incidentally if you wish to moan at why a topic or post is removed, then asking a Moderator or Admin via PM is more likely to get a nicer response than posting threads on the board asking about it. Now the topic is Cuttle Mill> Cuttle Mill has been part of Carp Fishing for a long time, and is part of its History. It has been publicised as a water where you have to work for your fish, and you live by the rules and regulations of the place. The drawing for swims, it may or may not rule out watercraft. Arriving and filling in a swim with Bait may work against you, but sometimes may produce a big hit. No matter what swim you get you are still going to have to work for your fish, so that means the watercraft element is still involved, or maybe many don't think enough about watercraft , just thinking it means turning up and looking for fish isn't watercraft. It can mean how you present your bait and how you bait up. That is a separate topic in itself (and there are threads on the subject). Cuttle Mill a water where many PB's have been broken, where many have had their first 20. You have even had a response from the Owner on the thread and what he has said holds true.

The tension of the bait on the water and the angle of the line that you have down to the float If you are worried about it sliding down then as Kev has pointed out, a stop knot and a rubber bead above it will prevent the hooklink sliding down. Like I said you really need to get the depth right unless you can come up with a good sliding set-up.

I've used the Beachcaster set-up in the past, and simply used a Link swivel with bait and hook attached to it with about 15cms of mono and attached that after casting the float out. The bait and hook weight pulls the link down to the correct height, it is free running down the line (obviously (i think )). If you are watching the bait you can see a take and know when to strike. It has been banned on some waters for dangerous set-ups that don't come apart and on some because of its success. It does have some shortcoming in that a sliding depth set-up can be difficult to arrange with a large float above the lead.

That makes sense to me! If you do decide that you need a D-rig, there is a pic in the Rig Tying Sticky: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=22185 Probably tied with a Coated Braid and I think from memory I have weighted it down with Wire around the hooklink. If you basic Pop-up rigs are working then stik with them. The most basic Pop-up rig is a Hair attached to a hook ( ) with a loop at the end. If you are happy piercing the pop-ups then this still works, if you prefer to tie the bait on (as I do, ) then a Uni Knot at the hook end of the hooklink material to create a loop, stick a pop-up in the loop and pull tight. Then attach the hook Knotless knot style. You can use whatever hooklength material you are comfortable with. Just use a power gum stop knot to attach any putty to to get your pop-up height (I prefer using power gum to having a shot on the line in case the shot weakens it), or even attach the putty round the Hookeye.

If on the day I was having this happening I would be changing the hair length or rig length. Fish falling off usually indicates that the hook isn't going in far enough, so I would lengthen the hair and/or rig length. However if you are doing what everyone else does and Fishing with a PVA Bag then it may be that this is what is causing the Carp to be very wary about picking up the hookbait. So it may pay to put more bait down, with a spod, catapult etc. It may even be that the Carp are wary of that particular bait! No easy answers, you will have to adapt and see accordingly.