salokcinnodrog

How far down south? I believe if you type in Linear as a search then you will come up with some info, (good and bad). You also have various waters in Norfolk that have been posted on: Swangey, Taverham Mills, Catch 22, Waveney valley, it may be worth a search for them

For as long as I can remember, Ouchthathirt has had the rolling eyes at the end as his signature When I used it I found the ESP the best Leadcore

I know that in the Where to fish A-Z Sticky there is a phone number: Carrow Row Farm Lakes.....Titchfield, Hampshire.....01329845102 It may or may not be helpful

Because if used with a heavy lead they also give added benefits that you'll know all about. I'll get back in my cave! i fish running leads and no lead core i saw the danger 12 months before fisheries started banning it ,my weak link is the knot from hooklink to swivel , hope you will put the carps welfare first now chaps and fall in line behind the Kent carpers who are pioneering the bans or don't you read the posts on carp welfare. If you wish to debate Lead Clips, then find a thread devoted to the Supposed Safety Clip like this one: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=36335&highlight=lead+clips This thread is devoted to the Beachcaster set-up and will stay that way!

its not fair to assume people would accept a free ticket to fish anywhere there are places and people i would not fish or fish with on principal if you offered to pay me, this point has now been removed 3 times without anyone telling me why , Joe and i know each other we are friends we pm each other regularly, we just dasagree over this one small point yet this post has been removed 3 times what is so offensive or frightening about it , if your going to remove it again please have the curtisy to explain why The reason it was removed is because there was no explanation as to why you wouldn't fish it!

I felt this thread was starting to get too personal. My views are the same, regardless of venue. As for the other thread link, i can't say. I wasn't a mod when that started. If you read the other thread the posts on bad venues are normally pretty constructive with a reason or series of reasons why a venue is bad. Fish with Scabs on may be caused by a number of reasons. Immediately after spawning the fish are covered in cuts and sores, is that their fault? Or yours for fishing for them? Give them time to recover adn a WEEK later they will have pretty much healed. That is on every water. I will gladly leave any post with CONSTRUCTIVE CRITICISM, but any that are just slagging off someone or something I will delete. I have removed a series of posts that are extremely personal and denigrating without reason, and got miles off topic. I even dealt with the Slagging off off why a Topic was removed. Incidentally if you wish to moan at why a topic or post is removed, then asking a Moderator or Admin via PM is more likely to get a nicer response than posting threads on the board asking about it. Now the topic is Cuttle Mill> Cuttle Mill has been part of Carp Fishing for a long time, and is part of its History. It has been publicised as a water where you have to work for your fish, and you live by the rules and regulations of the place. The drawing for swims, it may or may not rule out watercraft. Arriving and filling in a swim with Bait may work against you, but sometimes may produce a big hit. No matter what swim you get you are still going to have to work for your fish, so that means the watercraft element is still involved, or maybe many don't think enough about watercraft , just thinking it means turning up and looking for fish isn't watercraft. It can mean how you present your bait and how you bait up. That is a separate topic in itself (and there are threads on the subject). Cuttle Mill a water where many PB's have been broken, where many have had their first 20. You have even had a response from the Owner on the thread and what he has said holds true.

The tension of the bait on the water and the angle of the line that you have down to the float If you are worried about it sliding down then as Kev has pointed out, a stop knot and a rubber bead above it will prevent the hooklink sliding down. Like I said you really need to get the depth right unless you can come up with a good sliding set-up.

I've used the Beachcaster set-up in the past, and simply used a Link swivel with bait and hook attached to it with about 15cms of mono and attached that after casting the float out. The bait and hook weight pulls the link down to the correct height, it is free running down the line (obviously (i think )). If you are watching the bait you can see a take and know when to strike. It has been banned on some waters for dangerous set-ups that don't come apart and on some because of its success. It does have some shortcoming in that a sliding depth set-up can be difficult to arrange with a large float above the lead.

That makes sense to me! If you do decide that you need a D-rig, there is a pic in the Rig Tying Sticky: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=22185 Probably tied with a Coated Braid and I think from memory I have weighted it down with Wire around the hooklink. If you basic Pop-up rigs are working then stik with them. The most basic Pop-up rig is a Hair attached to a hook ( ) with a loop at the end. If you are happy piercing the pop-ups then this still works, if you prefer to tie the bait on (as I do, ) then a Uni Knot at the hook end of the hooklink material to create a loop, stick a pop-up in the loop and pull tight. Then attach the hook Knotless knot style. You can use whatever hooklength material you are comfortable with. Just use a power gum stop knot to attach any putty to to get your pop-up height (I prefer using power gum to having a shot on the line in case the shot weakens it), or even attach the putty round the Hookeye.

If on the day I was having this happening I would be changing the hair length or rig length. Fish falling off usually indicates that the hook isn't going in far enough, so I would lengthen the hair and/or rig length. However if you are doing what everyone else does and Fishing with a PVA Bag then it may be that this is what is causing the Carp to be very wary about picking up the hookbait. So it may pay to put more bait down, with a spod, catapult etc. It may even be that the Carp are wary of that particular bait! No easy answers, you will have to adapt and see accordingly.

The bait presentation covers plenty of options, whether you are fishing over pellets, particles, boilies or a single hookbait. In that little lot you can change your hookbait and how it is offered very easily, PVA Bags, stringers, spod loads of bait out, orput your boilies in groundbait. Far better to get the Carp eating the bait comfortably whatever the presentation than changing rigs just because you have been sussed on what you are currently doing.

Matt, Do you have any worries about gluing the Knots? I know I started a thread about Superglue and Knots ages ago, because I was worried about Superglue cracking or reducing the movement and cracking/breaking the knot or material. (Edited to include link) http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=20072&highlight=superglue+knots

Or a soft Hookable pellet (or plural) straight onto the hook.

Don't know if its any use to you, but I have been tying a number of rigs as a Combi rig with a Stiff upper section of Amnesia and then a supple section of Braid at the hook end. If you knotless knot the hook on it makes for an easy life Loop knot the amnesia at the swivel, then tie an overhand knot at the hook end, but don't pull tight. Thread the braid through the overhand knot and then Uni knot it down the Amnesia, wet and pull both knots tight. I've found that the best length of the amnesia is a minimum of two thirds of the hooklength to reduce tangles. The same sort of effect can be created if you want to have the braid section attached to a Rig ring as a junction between the 2 parts. Either way works well as a pop-up or as a bottom bait rig. Putty can be moulded over the knot or the ring to give you your counterweight. It doesn't PVA Bag very well, because of the stiff upper section, but I've been lowering my hookbaits in on 1 water (Hintlesham), and the pop-up rig gets cast with no freebies around it.

With a Line aligner you can use Shrink Tubing or Silicon tube to protect just the hookknot or extend it to make the hair come off the shank of the hook where you want it to. If you look at http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=22185 you should see in the pics where in the (my) rigs I have used Shrink (black) tubing to position the hair and protect the knot in one. Then if you go down to 666 pics you can see where he has used silicon tubing on the shank, but not covering the eye. At the same time in some at the top I have allowed the knotless knot and the whipping to position and hold the hair.

Just out of interest as i'd never heard of it until now, how would you know if weils disease was prevalent? I just googled it and it doesn't sound pleasant! You don't! Also bear in mind that Weils disease can be spread by Rats, Squirrels, Foxes, Badgers and some other mammals as well. Obviously if Rats are present and a problem you are not going to be licking your line.

I think I've just about worked out what you are trying to say about what the hair material is made from. With a Knotless knot in most cases the Hair is a continuation of the hooklink, so whatever your hooklink is made from that is what your hair is made of. On most occasions I'm lazy and use a braided Hooklink of Merlin, or strip the end of a coated braid etc Snake Bite, Mantis etc. and tie the hair with that and have a short section of uncoated braid above the hook on the hooklink. If you go to this Sticky: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=22185 you have a guide to the Knotless knot. On occasion though if I'm using a Mono or Stiff Hooklink then I want a soft hair. When I do that I use either Uncoated Dental Floss, 4lb Mono or ESP Hair Braid, dependant (lazily ) on what comes to hand first when I put my hand into the Tackle Box. I tie the Hair onto the eye of the hook, then tie the Hooklink material on and use Silicon or Shrink Tube to cover and protect the knot. A small pice of silicon down the shank of the hook holds the hair where I want it to be in place.

For just about every knot I have switched to the Grinner/Uni knot whether it be on braid or mono, I know it won't give way, but the Palomar is just as effective, in fact it is almost 100% efficient. Blood knots can be very bad for some monos and nearly all braids, although with Amnesia the 2 or 3 turn blood knot is probably the best knot going. With every knot, wet it or lubricate before pulling down tight or you can create a weakspot. A simple dab of spit on your knot works, or you can use Lypsil which some people do to avoid putting their mouth near the line which may give problems if Weils disease is prevalent.

Luck to make up for the bad times I'd been having My two pennorth worth: It is a nice place with nicely laid out swims with wooden chippings on most swims. The islands will look better with leaves on the trees (I saw it in COLD April), and most swims have a fair bit of good open water to aim for. The fish fight well and are in good condition from those that I have seen. The other thread: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=34096

When I used to use Leadcore I used to splice my own, and never had one give way with ESP (although I did have a batch of Gardner Leadcore that did, but that was a case of the (melted) Needle knot frayed). The advantage with Splicing your own is you can get different size loops, a small loop at the Mainline end and a larger one at the hooklength end for fast hooklink or lead changing. It is also possible to splice certain Braided Hooklink materials which gives you some nice presentations if you care to think about it

Do we head to the Ctitically Balanced Bait too early when using Pop-ups? To me the Critically Balanced bait is the last step in Pop-up presentation when you are trying to create that "suck and in it goes". Yet that "Suck and blow" could be moving the Critically balanced bait around preventing it being taken, especially when the fish are really moving the bait around with the swirling around the baited area. I know a few people reckoned that the Critically Balanced approach worked best in winter when Carp were mooching more. Jez, Like you I like the Over weighted Pop-up, but I think it works best for fish that pick up the hookbait, or it does in the way I tend to fish pop-ups, very close to the lakebed.

The lasy info I had was pretty basic. It is Day Ticket controlled by the National Trust, with Carp in. I don't think that Googling it brings up much either The best place to gain any information unless someone has fished it may be to purchase a copy of John Wilson's Guide to Fishing in Norfolk and Suffolk. It may receive a mention in there. If not you won't have lost anything as that will mention loads of other waters in the region

I know I carry loads of different Hooklink materials, but seem to use 2 in particular for most of my fishing; Merlin or Snakebite. And no I don't read the mags Fish with what you have confidence with , but be aware that at some point in your fishing you will need to be different to other anglers or that the Carp may have learnt how to deal with your "usual", so always have something you can change or experiment with.

If teflon slides in better do they use teflon coated needles at hospitals Thin Film and Interfaces at Cambridge University were researching the possibilities about using them for syringes. I know that Teflon is used in other Medical Situations I think you will find that PTFE| is Teflon, as Teflon is the DuPont Trade name for the produced product http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polytetrafluoroethylene As for the occasional bad hooks, it could be down to the surface having to be rough to apply the coating to allow it to "stick" or seal. That roughening could be weakening the hook itself as it will be creating heat that is not "in the right form"

How about a few reasons for a Teflon coating? 1) it prevents water getting to the base metal and stops it going rusty. 2) it allows a better penetration as it does not stick and slides in and penetrates better (in theory) 3) Non flash finish. That quote is from the Fox Armopoint hooks, all the reasons in 1 quote, but if you don't believe me then this Patent from 1992 should cover it all!