salokcinnodrog

It is rather interesting as I've nearly always fished a shorter hair and rig for Particles than I do for Boilies, probably something to do with trying to avoid the hook and bait going too far back in the mouth so as to avoid Bite-Offs. Do you find you end up with shorter rigs for particles than you do for boilies or are the 2 about the same, or do you change dependant on the feeding situation?

May be useful, but so is a Length of Hair Braid or mono. Not as specific as Korda's extenders, but I've been extending hairs that way for years and don't see why I should put money in someone else pocket for something that I can do with a little intelligence and common sense myself

All I have ever heard about Rushes Lake has been good. It may be worth using the search and seeing what other people have said about the venue, as it has come up in the past.

Sorry, I have had to remove some threads from The Fishing In France Section due to some idiot. A Reminder for you. PLEASE DO NOT RESPOND TO INSULTS, just ignore them.

The perfect hair (and hooklink) length is where the hook falls into the Carp's bottom lip, just inside the mouth. If its too long then the hook is too deep inside the mouth, if its too short then the Carp is hooked in the extremity of the lip, or you may suffer hookpulls where the hook has gone in too far forward. There are a fair few threads about rigs and hair lengths, hooklink lengths, so it may be worth digging up some of them. The one with most explanation is probably called Complicated Rigs, and is in the Advanced Carp Fishing section. The whole thread is worth a good read.

Depends! I often use Olivettes held on the hooklink either with the Rubber that comes with them, or a Piece of Amnesia threaded inside them, and if that is not enough weight then add putty onto it. If I'm using a Combi Rig then its putty on the Knot, or sometimes I prefer putty on the Hook eye itself.

Maybe even forget the Hair as well A Prawn has the same sort of shape as a hook, so just thread it up. As 666 has said, other fish are very good at beating Carp to the bait

Its not new, but this thread, is also entitled Etang Damvilliers. It may have some ideas for you on there.

thats what i was thinking korda 12 to me looks like e.s.p 8 I have noticed this before as well, miffed me a bit at first till I realised when I got home and compared and realised that I wasn't going mad! There doesn't seem to be any universal size comparisons. Different hook manufacturers often use different gauges. In some cases different tackle brands get the same hooks and even then a size 8 in one is the same as a 6 in another and they come from the same factory.

Take your pick of sizes from a size 6 up to size 12. As long as the rig does what it is designed to do, and you can get the carp to take the bait then whatever size you want to. A 10mm pop-up on a size 6 may look unbalanced, but if the Carp haven't seen it before then it may well catch.

Good Luck When You're up and Running, the details can go on here: Lakes and Fisheries in France

Thread moved into UK Where to Fish. There is a bit about Trench on the forum if you use the search but what is known is kept very quiet. If you look up the older threads then it may be worth having a quiet word and see if anyone will give you any information via PM, or you may have to buy a few drinks and get known socially

It definitely does not make for a 100% Safe way of Fishing a Running Lead. I really experimented with Leadcore on a water over Christmas/New Year time, getting into the water to check its safety aspect with regards as to its twist and trapping Run Rings, beads etc on it. It does not take much for leadcore to become dangerous (Leaders Thread and another in Advanced Carp Fishing, sorry can't remember which one). Tubing it is then. I haven't used running rigs before, I usually use Korda Inlines/Leadclips with tubing. Didn't know leadcore was prone to twisting. Valuable lesson learnt, hopefully others will read this. I'm lazy myself, and tend to buy the Solar Running Rig Kits. With the Beads provided you can make a safe Running Lead set-up and also a shocker set-up. I did have a look in Lathams Fishing Tackle, (Potter Heigham, or inside QD in Ipswich) and picked up some Zebco Run Rig Rubber and Rings. These are a nifty little set of Run Rings that go over the Swivel Buffer/protector that can also be converted to use as a Semi-Fixed set-up just by pulling the Run ring down to the base of the Buffer. I've also found that these Buffers take most sizes of Tubing. A tip for you if you want to pin your tubing down, and that is to put putty at the top of the Tubing, or on the Mainline, it sinks the top of the putty, and hopefully hides the rig tubing slightly. Some of the better putties can stick to the top of the tubing and not come off, so please check that it will pull off if you get a snap off. If you use enough so that the Run Ring can't pull off over it then you may be making a rig that is not safe.

It definitely does not make for a 100% Safe way of Fishing a Running Lead. I really experimented with Leadcore on a water over Christmas/New Year time, getting into the water to check its safety aspect with regards as to its twist and trapping Run Rings, beads etc on it. It does not take much for leadcore to become dangerous (Leaders Thread and another in Advanced Carp Fishing, sorry can't remember which one).

Not being funny, but alarms that rely on a magnetic roller wheel are seriously less sensitive than the Sundridge/Dellareed Optonics that had a light breaking vane, and that includes Dave's Giant/RT alarms. The magnet wheels provide drag (more weight to move, increased torque, extra friction to overcome) as the line is taken, more than the water surface tension that gives tension to the line on a take, (I THINK), so the line may not actually be turning the wheel. A heavier/thicker line may make a difference(?) I went from Optonics that I had fitted with 12vane roller wheels to Delkims, and the difference with the Vibration was markedly improved. The only thing I had to worry about was working out how to cut down wind bleeps that I had not been used to! As good as cheap alarms are in terms of cost, they could well be cutting down your Running Lead effectiveness, but will be good with Semi-Fixed/Bolt rigs where the Carp ARE Running. A vibration alarm could well be the way forward, even without the Running Leads as eventually if you read the thread Stoogi and I picked out, Carp may start to get wary of Bolt Rigs. At this point you may definitely need to get onto Running Leads on your water anyway.

Oh Oh! Have a read of this: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=26640 I'm certain I say it in there. With a Slack line, and a Running Lead, when you get a take, the line pulls tight, the fish is running, it does not stop when the line pulls tight to the Rod/reel. Why should the Carp take line off the Bait runner? you should have struck the run before then, even if you haven't the set-up still works well It is the slack line and heavy lead that creates the running situation. You don't need to go up to 4or5 oz, I use 3oz (Flat or Bottle Leads). A lighter lead than that in most cases is unlikely to stay still on the take. You don't need to have tension to move the roller, because the tension comes when a fish starts to run. You do not need to have any indicator on the line at all. I use Running Leads for Night Fishing, and don't have to sit by my rods. Yes I use Delkims, but my Mate uses either Giant alarms or Ron Thompson's (can't remember which) which have a wheel, and does the same as me. You hit the run before it takes line from the reel (or should), even if you don't the fish is still likely to be on the line. The Lead is free-running up the line, so there should be no possibility of the Carp using the weight of the lead to eject the hook. If you are worried about not having a True Running set-up then use a shocker set-up, again, indicator straight down, no tension on the line, then you get a run, the fish moves the set distance then the Run Ring hits a bead (stop-knot, whatever), you then get a continued Semi-Fixed set-up with the Lead offering resistance. If you have your indicator dropped straight down, and the slack line you stil get the indication. Seriously I use the Running Lead set-up on a large water and small waters.

Even with that Pendant lead attachment, if the lead has a swivel then it will behave slightly differently from a lead without one, or correctly there is a slight difference in the pivot point and point of resistance between the two.

LOL! Try this for a poser... If everyone fishes with a 2oz lead then going down to a 1oz may totally confuse the fish, alternatively going up to 3 or 4 oz may work. A 1oz Lead may not sound much, but if the Carp are used to 2oz and are feeling for it, then the resistance from 1oz is different, and be less, as a result the Carp may go back to running again. Whatever you are trying to do you are trying to confuse the Carp. Its not just down to lead size on losing fish; Your rigs have to be right as well. A hookpull can be down to the rig being too short, the hair may not be long enough, or even you have too much or too little bait in the area. You've got to play around with other things as well, consider all the possibles. If you/everyone else is using the same method, PVA Bag with 4-6inch hooklink then the Carp may be used to the situation. Just by increasing the bait in the area, or changing the length of the hooklink may create a different scenario that the Carp are not used to dealing with. Also Stoogi has pointed something out that may be worth expanding on, a Flat Lead may offer more resistance than a Tournament or Pear shaped Lead which could roll on a take, so a Flat 2oz lead may be all you need to do to convert a dropped take or hookpull into a fish on the bank. Even a Pendant Set-up may not be providing enough Bolt effect, the Lead Clip and lead attachment may be rolling or moving slightly, so it could be a case of going to an Inline set-up. This last week I had 1 hookpull, from the feel of the Carp it was too small to take the bait into its mouth and was just holding the boilie. So question for you, do I change the rig or lead after just 1 lost fish? Answer for you, or my thoughts NO!

There is a very good saying in Life, KISS, Keep it Simple Stupid. Get the location on and the simplest rig will catch. Most of my fish from this week came on something like this: A Basic Braid Rig: How simple is that?

Lot in the thread that Tony has mentioned. Will admit I've not had the problem of Line lifteng scales either. My tubing tends to be about 5cms longer than the Rig in most cases. If I want to camouflage the end tackle, or protect the line against snags, gravel or flint though it can be as long as 1600mm

That's the reason I don't like the place. How can I expect to walk around the lake each day looking for fish if I can't be sure it's safe when I'm gone.

LOL

Can I suggest you read the thread from start to finish?

As simple as tying a piece of weed to your line at the swivel and hook. You can trap the weed under the knotless knot as you tie the hook on. Personally I don't bother, my hooklinks look camouflaged enough in the water with the materials I use. I do get into the water at times to check as well But if you think you need to do it and it gives you confidence then try it, maybe on 1 rod and with an ordinary uncovered hooklink on the other and see which produces most

Forgot or didn't know? Helicopter, silt rig, semi-fixed pendant and Inline lead, all forms of Bolt rig: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=22185 Also almost anything that uses a lead clip held over the hooklink swivel