salokcinnodrog

Thread moved to Fishing in France section. It may pay to read the Stickies at the top of the Section and see if anything suitable presents itself

Lol, I doubt my Brand is of Lower Quality, its ESP! I have looked over the roots of lilies that were dragged out and they were covered in young mussels. I have since looked over the Sensor Mono and had to replace some of it due to wear, so the Leadcore obviously was cutting in more than the mono? I don't think that Braid is actually as Abrasion Resistant as Mono in many cases. All I know at the moment that on the Lake in question I am really struggling on Leadcore and on Mono. I've used Leadcore on Reservoirs with very little silt, and a mostly gravel bottom and had far better results on that than on the Tubing End Tackle Rods

Tackle Box sell it, think it was one of their specials originally .

I'm not sure it does prevent Cut-offs on Bars. I think in some cases it actually increases the risks as the line is lower in the water. As for near snags, I view it as a complete NO NO! (As I have probably stated on some of the other threads) I have been debating its use at the moment and I had a Smash up with Leadcore on Thursday last week. The Leadcore was totally worn through on a Lily Root that had broken from the Main Patch and was embedded in the Lake Bed. Yet the Mono as it was not textured but smooth was wearing and rubbing over the Root. The Lead core was cutting and being worn. I know that the Lead was able to break free on the Running set-up, as I reeled in about a metre of Leadcore that had been rubbed through and the Running Lead Ring was not attached to the line. So somewhere in the Lake the most the Carp is dragging around is a 15cm hooklink and a swivel with 5cms of Leadcore, from just above the splice

There are plenty of Leadcore Threads, these may offer some more opinions: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=28497 http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=24280 http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=22497

Please can you read this Link: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=24442 I have edited Posts that contain weblinks. Any information on links should be PM'd. This thread is for Anglers experiences and answers on a Venue. Final Point, do any of these help: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=19962

You tie a basic Rig either Line aligned or knotless knotted. Then you get a piece of line and loop it over the point behind the barb. On that piece of line you put a shot. The name of the Rig, probably something along the lines of: SHOT ON THE HOOK RIG!

Think you should have done a Search! I have posted as much as I know on the venue in the past on at least 3 threads!

Mrs_Rusheslake (Kim) is a member of this and another forum. If you PM her see what she tells you about the Lake I have never heard a bad word against the fishery. This is direct from the French Fisheries Sticky at the top of the French Section

Thats all well and good if you know how to tie a knotless knot. Hope Nicks (salokcinnodrog) link helps... Same link as Gaz, he beat me to it by seconds

Its ok I scare everyone, even myself

Trust me, my toys are firmly in my Pram, and my Dummy in my mouth, although you keep on like that and they won't be and it won't be me who suffers:twisted: Location using a Bait Boat makes no odds, it doesn't need mentioning. Its just as easy to put a Bait in the wrong place with a Bait Boat as it is to miscast by casting. In fact I would bet my Casting against any Bait Boat. I gave you my views on Hooklink Material, the quote is mine from another thread on Rig Camouflage Their is NO right or wrong Rig material, just find one that you are comfortable with and you catch Carp on. I'd say that is the be all and end all, but its not; You also have to get the Lead Set-up arrangements right as well. Carp may be sussing out "your" Semi-Fixed Lead Tight Line set-up, so you may have to get onto Slack Lines and Running Leads, or Paternoster Set-ups.

Boults, Nice to see that you are thinking your way into your fishing. (thats not a sarcastic remark, just that not enough people try to think their way around a problem before diving straight onto the local source of "free" knowledge) I see what you are saying, but the hair length need not be short and the bait tight to the hook with Shrink Tubing. That is just the way that the majority of people are fishing at the moment. If you look at my other rigs on the Sticky, you can see that I change the hair length dependant on my findings The Rig I have pictured is one I have been using with a 15mm Boilie on the hair; When the Bait is on the hair it actually comes to just past the Loop Knot, so I have a longer hair than standard (or different to other anglers). When I get to a New Water I tend to find out what has been used before and then go on from that. If the water is lightly fished then I have a very short hair, the bait almost "shank mounted" (tight to the back of the hook on a short hair), then as I check hookholds and possible dropped runs etc I lengthen the hair and or the hooklink. In the same way a poor hookhold can be caused by too short a hooklength, the hook and bait is prevented from going into the Carp's mouth because the hooklink (hooklength) is not long enough. This too short a hooklink can be responsible for not getting a good hookhold, or even for not getting takes or a series of individual bleeps that don't develop. If you look at your hookholds when you land a fish and even on lost fish you can decide whether your rig is right. If the hook is embedded firmly at the back of the bottom lip, then your rig is just about perfect. If its close to the front or you are losing fish then the hook may be pr1cking the fish too early. If the Carp is hooked at the back of the mouth then the rig may be too long.

The most basic simple rig will catch on the hardest water if you have the main 2 aspects right. The first and most important Tony has pointed out, and the 2nd is find a bait that the Carp want to eat. That quote is from this thread: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=17661 (complete with my typo from when I first posted ) http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=22185, This is the Sticky that 666 refers to. Believe it or not for the majority of my fishing I still use a basic Line aligner rig. I don't think that I have changed set-ups for over 15years! The only thing I do change is the length of the hair and the length of the hooklink. This pic below is actually one of my rigs and I have caught many fish on this style of rig, to 28lbs from a variety of venues. Braid Line Aligner with Shrink Tubing:

The Bait boat makes no flipping odds. Bait Boats are another issue totally and should be kept to the Bait Boat threads. To be honest by mentioning it you have put a lot of people off Its a Love/Hate topic and I think more, me included Hate Them! This is my reply basically on another thread. You cannot catch fish that aren't in the area, so my advice to you is concentrate on locating the Carp, then get a Bait that they are confident eating. You make no mention of what bait you are using. If its those Overflavoured, Hi Attract pop-ups, then they may be working against you. You would be far better to get onto a Food Source Bait and applying it properly and pre-bait with it. The Carp's confidence in the bait will increase and probably so will your results. If the Carp's confidence in the bait is high and they are happy eating it, then in most cases it doesn't matter a flying fig what your Rig is!

Can I suggest this: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=22185 Its the Sticky at the top of the Rig Tying section, comes with a diagram of how to tie the knotless knot, which is probably the basis for just about almost every rig available

If you have any problems with the hair twisting then when you tie the "knot" then have a few turns below where the hair exits on the shank of the hook. This twisting seems to be more apparent with mono's or fluoro's.

In Carp Fishing the Rule is, that there are no Rules. What works on 1 day may not the next. Therefore it pays to experiment when removing the Coating of any Coated Hooklink as at any given time the Carp may want it differently from the day before. For years I have been using Snakeskin, Snakebite, and Super Mantis, and have played around with literally thousands of different combinations and there is no right or wrong answer. Stripped back millimetres from the eye or line aligner, or even 5-10centimtres. In fact there have been a few where the only coating was stripped was about 25mm away from the hook, where I wanted to create a hinge. I'm fishing a new water now I have in fact gone all the way back to basic Braids, out with the Dacron and Kite String again

Its a type of Line Floatant, normally used by Fly Anglers to keep the flies on the surface

Another point that I didn't extend onto is that Carp may take soaked/dipped boilies quite happily, but regular captures on them and they may start to get wary and eventually refuse to take them. A continually overflavoured bait and the Carp may start to not take them

If you are losing leads then the Lead clip is working efficiently. As soon as the Fish is picking up the Rig and swimming off the Lead pulls free of the Clip as the Rubber slides up, which is exactly what they are supposed to do. The Rubber is sliding free and preventing the fish from getting snagged in weed etc. If you are annoyed at losing leads at minimal contact with the Lead clips, then switch to the Carp-R-Us Lead Clips, they have a 3 stage Clip for changes in tension of your choice. MAKE SURE YOU READ THE INSTRUCTIONS WITH THESE FIRST, as they are not a standard Line clip.

Blooming Lead Clips are a Bad point as far as I'm concerned. When they do actually what they say on the Tin, (after experimentation) then in actual fishing situations they don't work. It may only take a little weed and the whole safety clip effect is negated. I prefer Running Leads and if there is any possibility of a Lead getting snagged then I attach the Lead to the Run Ring with a Paper Clip. The Paper clips opens out in the event of it getting snagged under very little pressure. The other option is a length of fine nylon and the lead attached to that, held in plac ewith PVA on the cast. The Running lead rig I use are the Solar ones, but they also do make full Semi-Fixed set-ups. http://www.solartackle.co.uk/

Air Drying reduces the Moisture Content in baits. Oils may turn to a sticky snot type thing on the outside of them. When the Bait is rehydrated then the flavour will still be released. Hence why I don't like using Artificial Flavours in Food Source Baits. If you use them as an Individual Attractor bait with no freebies around they may still work. The Carp do not eat the individual hookbait.

Only 483,000 , thought there were more than that I have a large selection of hooklink materials, Braids, Fluorocarbons, Coated Braids, Mono's. All have their place in my fishing, although for the majority of the time I use Braids and Coated Braids from Kryston. The best thing I can suggest is that you buy some of the various hooklink materials and experiment to see what works for you. Because of the cost it pay pay to get various materials sharing with a friend and then play around trying them between the 2 (or More) of you.

Essential Oils can be overloaded. Many are best at extremely low dosages, Leek and Garlic are best at levels as low as 2drops per 250ml Bait Soak. The type of flavours, as pointed out above by Gaz in his point about Natural Flavours are important, but even Citrus Flavours or Fruit flavours on Esters can be overloaded. I have written about the types of flavours in the past. Thats from this thread: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=24365