salokcinnodrog

Like I said in a previous thread just down the page , if you are fishing a bed of bait then you don't want a pop-up, you want your hookbait at the same level as the rest of your bait. If you are fishing a Food Source boilie in an area of baits then you may want to have your bait the same level as the freebies, in other words on the bottom. Or you may want to have it popped up slightly in the hope that it will get taken first, or you may need to have it critically balanced, so that the carp sucks it the same as the freebies, and the hookbait shoots into the mouth. Beware that pop-ups and critically balanced baits can start to work against you in the Food source baits. As for a Hi-Attract pop-up, you don't have to have a different rig from your bottom baits, just either tie a piece of power gum at the height you want it off the bottom and cover it with putty, or do the same with shot. As for other pop-up rigs LOOK AT THE STICKY AT THE TOP OF THE SECTION

Jez, I won't argue about the weight of it, cos I actually know. I also know that the Leadcore is thinner than the tubing (may sound obvious I know), but Lead is actually denser than the Tubing. Like you I'm getting to the stage that I'm worried about Leadcore, although a lot of it is down to irresponsible use and in the wrong hands etc. Used responsibly I don't think it is a risk, but if there is any risk of it causing damage to Carp and/or creating a Death Rig then it should not be used. Unfortunately we have magazines advocating its use, and its not always shown in its true use or why. No thought is given onto the rigs or attachments that are safe with it.

Try weighing one metre of the heavy duty esp anchor tubing and then 1 metre of leadcore and tell me which is heaviest. Give me a clue

I suggest you dig up previous threads on the subject "Tubing vs Leadcore". Then realise that while a object may have more Mass (weigh more) its density is not that of another. In other words while 1 tonne of feathers weighs the same as 1tonne of coal, the coal is more dense and will take up less space. BASIC PHYSICS!

I believe it was Mike Wilson who originally used Glass Weights at Savay. He was concerned due to the effect of an Electrical Current occurring between dissimilar metals in water. He was using the glass from a Chandelier. Wonder if he realised the continuing possibilities of Clear Leads. As for Clear hooks, why is it not possible? We have polycarbonates that are extremely strong and sharp and may well be able to manipulated/extruded into the right shape. Will it be an edge though? How much difference is there between a sharp metal hook that is difficult to see in water, especially if hidden under a boilie and a polycarbonate (sic) hook? Look at how, in many cases your hook lands on the lakebed, often with the boilie landing on top masking it from view, especially as the boilie is not usually as dense as the Hook.

Please be very careful with Helicopter/SILT set-ups. I have posted this in the past: AT Suffolk Water Park I was smashed up on my Marker rod on a Safezone Leader. The Safezone Leader cut through my Braid. I eventually retrieved it with my Spod Rod. Attached to the end of the leader was about 50metres of Line I reckon. I tried to pull the Lead off the Korda Leader and it would not come off, even using Pliers. The Eternal Bailiff Trevor also tried to remove the lead, pulling against me and the pliers. No Matter how hard we pulled, the Leader would not release the Rig or the Lead. Whenever I have needed a Silt/Helicopter set-up I use either the Solar Helicopter rigs or make up my own.

Probably the same height as the rest of the bait off the bottom. In other words if your carpet of bait is about an inch off the lakebed then put your hookbait at the same height If you are fishing a bed of bait then don't fish the hookbait off the bottom. Balanced bait on the bottom would probably be far better

If you look in the Rig Tying section there is a sticky at the top entitled along the lines of Carp Rigs. There are pics in there of a few Pop-up rigs. Also if you type in Pop-ups as a search there have been debates on how pop-ups actually behave in the water as well as debates on piercing as opposed to tying on

I would not say the BlowBack rigs are simple. The simplest rigs are Knotless Knotted with a Hair. From that you can change most things easily, the hooklink length or the hair length. Then add into that the Mantis, that is not a "basic" braid. It makes Combination rigs easier to tie, so I would not class it as simple.

Members, Times and viewpoints change. Members of forums come and go, so different members will not always see the "older" threads. Although on many questions I may say use the Search facility, thing is on that thread, unless you knew exactly what you were looking for then you wouldn't have posted your question. If you look at the Complicated Rigs thread then I would not say the BlowBack rigs are simple. The simplest rigs are Knotless Knotted with a Hair. From that you can change most things easily, the hooklink length or the hair length. Then add into that the Mantis, that is not a "basic" braid. It makes Combination rigs easier to tie, so I would not class it as simple.

Try reading this thread: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=9536. Its called Complicated Rigs, and I started it in 2005. I must admit that it is Headache inducing at times, but there are some very pertinent points on it. It goes into Rigs, Lead attachment and more.

I've said before about playing with rigs in the past, and on most occasions there are only a couple of things that need changing. The hair length and the hooklink length. Look at where you hook fish, or if you lose any when playing fish consider where you are likely to have hooked it. The perfect rig hooks fish normally in the middle of the bottom lip. If the hook is too far forward in the lip, or you are loosing fish then the chances are the hooklink or hair length is too short. If the hook is far back in the bottom of the mouth, or has scraped down inside the mouth then the hair or link is too long. Play with those things first to get your rig right. From the hair rig the next step in presentation was by Rod Hutchinson and another Savay Angler Roger Smith(?) at the same time. Rod Hutchinson came up with an extending hair rig, and I believe it was Roger Smith who came up with the D-rig. The D-rig is good for bottom baits and pop-ups as well. The other thing that may need to be considered is also how the fish are feeding. With large beds of bait, then a shorter rig may be better. If the bait is spread further apart then a longer hooklink may be needed. Unfortunately every trip you may need to play around to find out what is right. Even then you have your Lead set-up to take into consideration. For some of the answers on that look at Semi-Fixed vs Running leads in Advanced section.

It may also be worth having a look at the Sticky at the top of the Fishing in France section: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=19962

I think that any of the members of the Forum who have been here a while know how bad my temper is. Those who have the misfortune to annoy or get me angry at work have seen me fire off and to heck with the consequences, and to be honest it may not always be their fault. We all get angry or annoyed at times, and I know in my case, think later. Its those times when maybe, me included, should step back and think about our reactions and actions. Look at it this way, I got into Serious Bad Company when I was in my late teens, and made some bad mistakes. Its fishing that brought me back to Earth when I lost it. Its Fishing that kept my head out of my Backside when Liz and I had Serious Problems. Passing the skills gained from fishing onto the latest generation is something that I wish more would do. Anything that puts something back into the Pursuit and even in a small way keeps some Youth away from some of the things that I got into is worthwhile. Next question for you Shaun, have you tried the rig with various different lead set-ups and weights? Is there any specifics that work best with it?

Sounds like a fair apology to me

Right I have edited this thread to remove the digs. I just removed a load of posts, so something that may have been pertinent might need to be retyped and reposted. In other words THINK before you reply, Insults, Digs and Swearing WILL NOT be tolerated There is nothing in there that needs anyone to fire off at. Goblin and I made the point that basic rigs may work best if you can get the feeding and location right. Goblin even complimented you on your thinking and working on a theory. Also we gave you the idea that it may need experimenting with, fishing it alongside a basic rig to see which catches best. Any "tat" rig may catch fish if IT IS PUT IN THE RIGHT PLACE, where the Carp are feeding comfortably. Lets keep to the topic.

Lol, You should see the amount I experiment and try things out I came up with a Pop-up rig that I think is unique. The weight of the material used to tie the pop-up on was the actual counterbalance to hold it down. The pics are in the Sticky at the top of the Rig Tying section of the forum. Strange I didn't use it yesterday while I was playing around on my Runs Water, but I was more concerned with comparing Lead set-ups.

I don't think that the bait near the lip will be able to indicate which bait the Carp picked up. The Hook will position itself in the lip in the fight. As to the rig's effectiveness, I'm not sure about it. I know in the past that someone tried the hair in front of the eye, so the bait was positioned in front of the point of the hook. Don't forget though, if you feed right then the carp will often pick up the most basic rig going.

Just a quick point, Helicopters give the worst Bite Indication and lead to more ejected/aborted takes

Oh Gawd, don't get me on the helicopter rigs debate, they are limited in their applications. SHOULD NOT be used in Weedy waters, they do not offer the best of indications, http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=26640, in fact with how I attach my leads should I need them to break free . I have not found the Lead to get snagged with an inline in weed. The weed normally slides over the lead, and then down to the fishes head, which covers its eyes, in many cases it then comes free. Next point on those 2 threads is how I attach my Running leads if I need the Lead to come free, use a paper clip. Really about Lead clips and their uses we should be discussing on those threads

I don't want it to! Like I was trying to explain there are times when you don't want or need the lead to discharge. I don't use that set-up in weedy waters, (I prefer Inlines). If I get a snap off, which is likely to be above the lead, then the Bead and Tubing pulls free from the swivel. In fact it is very rare that I use Lead Clips at all, as the majority of my fishing is with Running Leads. With Running Leads, again, if I get a snap off then the Lead is free running and comes off the line easily.

In which case why do you need a lead clip then? If you don't need the lead to discharge then a Lead clip is not an essential, there are other ways of holding the Lead on. I used this method for years with no problems:

In many cases they don't! Not always down to the Lead Clip working incorrectly, it can be used wrongly, the rubber can be held on too tight by being pushed on too far, or the lead clip may not have been trimmed back. In some cases a Lead Clip may not even be needed at all. If you want to use a Lead Clip then in my view the Carp-R-Us ones are the best. Adding a length of line to the Lead clip the line can pull the Rubber free, or will breal on the cast. Consider that with a 3oz lead you can be creating a force of 30lbs! So a length of half lb mono is likely to break. If you don't use a Lead clip then tying the lead on with a weak link has been used for years. It can be tied on at casting with PVA to hold it during the cast As with all read the Instructions.

On the occasions I use stiff rigs then I tend to use Clear Amnesia.