salokcinnodrog

Can I suggest this: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=22185 Its the Sticky at the top of the Rig Tying section, comes with a diagram of how to tie the knotless knot, which is probably the basis for just about almost every rig available

If you have any problems with the hair twisting then when you tie the "knot" then have a few turns below where the hair exits on the shank of the hook. This twisting seems to be more apparent with mono's or fluoro's.

In Carp Fishing the Rule is, that there are no Rules. What works on 1 day may not the next. Therefore it pays to experiment when removing the Coating of any Coated Hooklink as at any given time the Carp may want it differently from the day before. For years I have been using Snakeskin, Snakebite, and Super Mantis, and have played around with literally thousands of different combinations and there is no right or wrong answer. Stripped back millimetres from the eye or line aligner, or even 5-10centimtres. In fact there have been a few where the only coating was stripped was about 25mm away from the hook, where I wanted to create a hinge. I'm fishing a new water now I have in fact gone all the way back to basic Braids, out with the Dacron and Kite String again

Its a type of Line Floatant, normally used by Fly Anglers to keep the flies on the surface

Another point that I didn't extend onto is that Carp may take soaked/dipped boilies quite happily, but regular captures on them and they may start to get wary and eventually refuse to take them. A continually overflavoured bait and the Carp may start to not take them

If you are losing leads then the Lead clip is working efficiently. As soon as the Fish is picking up the Rig and swimming off the Lead pulls free of the Clip as the Rubber slides up, which is exactly what they are supposed to do. The Rubber is sliding free and preventing the fish from getting snagged in weed etc. If you are annoyed at losing leads at minimal contact with the Lead clips, then switch to the Carp-R-Us Lead Clips, they have a 3 stage Clip for changes in tension of your choice. MAKE SURE YOU READ THE INSTRUCTIONS WITH THESE FIRST, as they are not a standard Line clip.

Blooming Lead Clips are a Bad point as far as I'm concerned. When they do actually what they say on the Tin, (after experimentation) then in actual fishing situations they don't work. It may only take a little weed and the whole safety clip effect is negated. I prefer Running Leads and if there is any possibility of a Lead getting snagged then I attach the Lead to the Run Ring with a Paper Clip. The Paper clips opens out in the event of it getting snagged under very little pressure. The other option is a length of fine nylon and the lead attached to that, held in plac ewith PVA on the cast. The Running lead rig I use are the Solar ones, but they also do make full Semi-Fixed set-ups. http://www.solartackle.co.uk/

Air Drying reduces the Moisture Content in baits. Oils may turn to a sticky snot type thing on the outside of them. When the Bait is rehydrated then the flavour will still be released. Hence why I don't like using Artificial Flavours in Food Source Baits. If you use them as an Individual Attractor bait with no freebies around they may still work. The Carp do not eat the individual hookbait.

Only 483,000 , thought there were more than that I have a large selection of hooklink materials, Braids, Fluorocarbons, Coated Braids, Mono's. All have their place in my fishing, although for the majority of the time I use Braids and Coated Braids from Kryston. The best thing I can suggest is that you buy some of the various hooklink materials and experiment to see what works for you. Because of the cost it pay pay to get various materials sharing with a friend and then play around trying them between the 2 (or More) of you.

Essential Oils can be overloaded. Many are best at extremely low dosages, Leek and Garlic are best at levels as low as 2drops per 250ml Bait Soak. The type of flavours, as pointed out above by Gaz in his point about Natural Flavours are important, but even Citrus Flavours or Fruit flavours on Esters can be overloaded. I have written about the types of flavours in the past. Thats from this thread: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=24365

Snakeskin is by Kryston You may have to check your hooks as well, as some hook eyes are slightly different sizes depending on the manufacturer

It can be either way around! The Pop-up nearest the hook is a totally different presentation, that for some reason fools some, normally, Larger Carp that have been regularly caught on standard snowman presentation

It really is worth using the Search facility. It is also worth looking down the page. You will find if you post a subject that has been covered within the last month or so you will receive very few replies as users can't be bothered to answer a subject again. Mike has given you the link to the Leadcore subject, which is actually the next topic down at time of writing. I have locked this thread.

If the Lead is attached to the End Splice, then the Rig should come off the other end of the Leadcore. If you use Running Leads then the Run Ring the lead is attached to should be free to come off the Leadcore, and it can pass over the splice.

If you are using Clear Amnesia as the Stiff boom Part of the Combi Link, then what matters is using a loop knot to tie it to the swivel. The Hook section play with what works best and is most camouflaged. I use Amnesia Combi Links over gravel, silt and limited patches of silkweed with no problems.

Please Not the 360 Rig! I would definitely advise against its use That rig is lethal to some Carp when picking up the bait. It can cause double hooking as well as being more Iron than needed. Try this thread covering some of the Dangers of the 360 Rig: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=25774

Never have confidence with Supergluing Knots. A Splice will hold on itself without Superglue. I always worry that after a period of time a Superglued Knot will break, (a subject I have brought up in the past: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=20072) I test every knot before I cast the rig out, the Mainline to swivel knot, the Hook knot and the Hooklink to Swivel Knot, as well as when I tie the rigs they are checked and tested

Yes you can land 20lb Carp on 12lb line. Work out that the breaking strain can take approximately 4 times its own strength underwater, so in theory you could land a 48lb Carp on that 12lb line. In practise and with experience you will discover that you can actually do better than that. The simple answer is learn to tie your own rigs. If you are happy to trust somebody else's knots then fine, but if there is a breakage, who do you blame? If you have tied your rigs there is only yourself. Next issue, the cost of ready tied rigs, works out expensive compared to the cost of getting the materials yourself. 10 rigs cost you £20 if you buy them ready made. For £20 with the cost of the materials you could tie 20rigs at least! You will need to learn to tie other knots at some point and preferably soon, for your sake and that of the Fish. Some lines do not take a Blood Knot well as it is a strangulation knot and it can cause breakages! For other knots, with step by step pics try this: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=25551 Mike has put up a link to the Basic Rigs sticky in New To CarpFishing, but there is also this one in Rig Tying. http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=22185 The first post gives a step by step on tying the knotless knot. The first rig pics are the same as the basic rigs as well Monofilament is stiffer than Braid, this stiffness may start to cost you fish. Braid is as easy to tie as Mono, in fact easier and may be safer as you do not get that crinkle effect that you do with Mono. That crinkle can be a weak spot in your line which could be the point the line breaks. Just for a quick pointer, I took a friend fishing the other day who had been buying ready made rigs, it took 5 minutes and 2 demonstrations for him to learn the knotless knot using braid. Now if I can do that on the Bank in a wind, then I'm sure if you ask someone politely in either the Tackle shop, or on the bank that you would like some assistance with learning then you may receive some help.

I must admit I don't like loop to loop with Mainline to leadcore. I prefer a proper knot. The loop in the Mainline is a potential weakspot. Any Loop formed using an Overhand knot is nowhere near 100% in terms of strength. Also in weed, the Leadcore, even with a "safe" set-up, is a liability. The leadcore can get tangled round the weed, tethering a Carp. Even if the Running Lead is ejected, which in weed is not always a definite, then the Leadcore is weighty enough to tangle around any weed and prevent the rig being ejected. The Carp then has to break free, which is damaging the fish.

Think thats the Original Claw rig. It was published in Kevin Maddocks and Julian Cundiffs Guide to Carp Rigs

I think the only safe knots to use with Leadcore to Mainline are the Needle Knot, or to splice it and then a Uni/Grinner knot through the splice. The Leadcore if you get a snap-off must not become a Death Rig, so if the water is weedy or snaggy then don't use it. It will tangle round weeds and snags even with no Lead attached. I prefer to use Running leads with it, although Helicopter rigs slide off the Leadcore better if only Rubber beads are used, and must NOT be glued into place. Even putting the bead on by making another hole with a Baiting needle can get trapped on the Leadcore, far better to use a small piece of silicon under the rubber bead. I have written in the past about a Leadcore rig that cut off my Marker, that I eventually managed to snag and drag in at SWP. There was no way a Fish could eject the lead, I tried, and Trevor the Bailiff tried, using Pliers and full force between us. The rig swivel would not slide off the leadcore, so whoever was using the so called "safezone" rigs could have been responsible for a Fish death.

Hi Mate, Welcome to the Forum. I tend not to use Mono for hooklinks, I prefer the suppleness of Braid and adaptability of Coated Braid. If I start getting low on any hooklink material I make sure I go and purchase some more. On the occasions I do use Mono hooklinks I basically just use Knotless Knot or the Hookknot tied down the shank (Domhof) and a supple Hair tied on. The Anchor style rigs with the mono bristles are supposed to prevent the hook being blown out of the Carp's mouth. Not used them much myself. They are a pain in the butt to tie, and I prefer to get the Carp feeding comfortably and so they don't even think about blowing the hook out

I often use it with a Food Source bait on the hook end of the hair and a Hi-Attract pop-up as the furthest away bait. It gives the best of both Hi-Attract/hi visibility and also the food source bait on the same set-up. It has worked well for me with Carp to to 25lbs on it, and often produces when the Food Source Baits on there own don't. Have used it on clean bottom, on weed and over silt.

If you are using Boilie dips then my advice is to fish single hookbaits, with limited or no freebies around it. You are relying on the attraction of the Hookbait to pull the carp to the bait. As for overdosing, even with shop bought dips and glugs, unless you know that they don't contain any ingredients that, in excess, can repel carp then its possible that they can be overdosed. I much prefer Glugs/dips that contain things like Nutramino, Multimino, CSL Liquid, but with no added flavours. It tends to be the flavours that act as a repellant in excess. Who knows what percentage of flavour in a dip is going to make it repellant? Its also far better to get the carp onto a long term food source bait and feed regularly, (even when not fishing), than to fish Attractor baits as in many waters the carp are now getting extremely wary of Hi-Vis and/or overflavoured hookbaits.