salokcinnodrog

Is this any use? A leadcore free version: A piece of rigid tubing a soft rubber bead or two (if you want the sliding version), tail rubber ring swivel and quicklink style clip for the lead. The pics and ideas are ages old, so they are NOT my current hook patterns.

I had to do some pics to help somebody out the other day for tying a combi-rig, so I will add them onto here: Cut your braid and stiff section to lengths required. I have used black Amnesia for clarity as clear does not show up particularly well on the scanner Tie an overhand knot in the stiff section, but don't pull tight, and thread the braid through the loop. On the braid tie a Uni knot back down around the stiff section, wet them both and pull tight While you can use a standard knotless knot my current version is along the lines of a sliding/revolving version, so I add on a line aligner (shrink tubing not yet shrunk down) and add on a rig ring with hair and a small stop to stop it.

I use it for combi-rigs and stiff links, brilliant stuff. The different colours have different "stiffnesseseses" . The black amnesia is a lot more supple than the clear, green or red It also ties a tidier knot

8 feet of leadcore? Seriously? Yes. 8 feet of leadcore? Seriously? Think someone is JOKING Not joking either. I used to have doubts over using leadcore, like a lot of people do. But i had my choddies set up such a way that the bead would always release if the lead got snagged. Sorry, I am anti Leadcore and many of the reasons why are in this thread: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=32598 It does not take much for the leadcore to kink, and then a lead or bead can get trapped on leadcore, no matter how much pressure you put on the beads CAN get trapped holding the rig in place. I found the pics I mentioned previously on this thread http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=44395&highlight=rubber+bead

There may be some useful info on this thread: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=45767

8 feet of leadcore? Seriously? Think someone is JOKING I had a safe way of using a Silt rig set-up using a piece of rigid tubing ( I did put up pics somewhere): A short length of rigid tubing, ring swivel, 2 rubber beads and/or 1 bead and a tail rubber or stop bead. If you want the rig to be able to slide then put the ring swivel on the tubing and at either end use a rubber bead to hold it. The rig can then slide off the tubing in the event of the fish snagging. If you want it fixed then put the tubing into the tail rubber or stop bead.

Is this any use? http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=33587

By the way, as somebody other than me has pointed out, the Kurvs are almost the same hook as the Centurions, Muggas and an Ashima pattern Yet the Kurvs do NOT hold their point as long as those other patterns.

i'm sorry but that is an unnfair comment to make. The korda wide gape is the most used carp hook on the market,and i haven't yet (touch wood) dropped a fish on a sharp wide gape. i no you are entitled to your opinion but i thought saying they're rubbish is a bit unfair. The most used hook on the market, and many anglers blame other things than a bad hook anyway. I honestly think that Korda hooks are not as good as made out to be. I have used them after persuasion from a friend, and I did lose or even not get fish on them. I'm certain that I had pick-ups with the hooks, but they did not convert into strikable runs. Carp-R-Us Centurions, Kamasan B175's did produce runs from the exact same spot. There are so many people who have been "converted" into Korda Tackle that they won't accept that there is anything wrong with the products, yet in many cases there is, and many anglers won't use them because of that. Go to the "Korda" threads, and for each angler who rates them, there are many who won't. Now when it comes to hook patterns I use those I know work, and after the "missing" fish I will test every pattern to check its performance before I use it in a fishing situation. I have ended up with patterns I'm confident with, B175's, my last few Centurions and Nailers, and Gardner Mugga's.

A question for you... Why do you think that rig tubing is there to prevent lifting scales? You DON'T fish floaters with anti-tangle tubing. I have not lifted or can't remember ever lifting a scale when I fish mainline straight through. The tubing is only used to prevent tangles or to break up the line and prevent it being seen (or felt; vibration, not against the fish). When you fish at any range above about 40metres the line at that range near the end tackle is running along the lakebed anyway

No need for the backstop, and most of the time the tubing stays in the bead with no problems. Use a Solar rig "thingimajig (can't remember its proper name ) push the buffer bead onto the metal tube, and then the tubing into the small hole in the thingimajig, and slide the bead back down onto the tubing. Using a large buffer bead or even a rubber tulip bead it grips the hooklink swivel and does not work free.

actually if you tie a flourocarbon rig with an inturned eye you will notice that the angle can get a little acute between the line and the hook ie something like a fox SR whilst not full out turned will be a lot better I seem to remember a well known angler mentioning that with a standard hook pattern and straight eyed hooks the fluorocarbon was being worn or cut by the hook eye. I seem to think he preferred an extreme inturned eye, and bringing the fluorocarbon out from the back of the eye.

http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=37416 Is that any use?

You've got 2 different answers as to what Dan and Jules find easiest, and here is a 3rd, so you are going to have to work out what suits you. I tie a Uni knot loop at the end my hooklink and tie the hook on knotless knot or a piece of (4lb) mono if I tie a separate hair. Fit pop-up into loop and gently pull it down tight. I don't often use individual pop-ups as hookbaits, but I do usually use a snowman set-up, and tie the hair long enough for the bottom bait to go on as well and still loop the pop-up.

From the experiments I carried out, the brands that the inner leadcore poked out, ESP, Gardner etc, basically all of them after time, and a few casts! One of Levigsp's fishing partners did, and discovered that the rig was running along the fish's cheeks and causing "burns".

I can't put it any other way, but I will advise you NOT to use leadcore in your fishing. The cost is relative, not just the cost of what you gets for your money, but the risks it poses to the fish we love in tethering and dead fish. I may be "one track" minded when it comes to leadcore, but in my honest view, leadcore does NOT give you any advantage in your fishing, and is an absolute risk to the fish, either in marks, scars or the potential for tethering and killing fish. In my view there is NO safe leadcore rig set-up, and Numbers of fish have been found tethered and dead when leaders have been used. Leadcore does NOT hide the rig, in fact it is more visible than a standard mainline, and it does NOT pin the line to the lakebed. Have a read of some of these and then please I ask you, don't even think about using leadcore in your fishing: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=32598 http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=38886&highlight=advanced+carp+fishing http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=40711&highlight=advanced+carp+fishing http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=39794

But why add a fluoro leader (http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=32598), when at any range it is going to serve no useful purpose? At around 40metres, the line is going to have arced down from the rod tip to the lakebed anyway, and is camouflaged against the lakebed.

Silicon tubing I can't remember which one I have got I bought a large pack of silicon tubing years ago, and I have kept it tidily packed away in a plastic box, only comes out when I need it. Most of my hook rigs are shrink tubed, with 1.6mm black shrink tube which I get from Mo's Co. Anti Tangle tubing; I was buying either Solar or Fox Running rigs, which come complete with the run rings, buffer beads and a length of anti tangle tubing Not used the Rig Marole tubing yet, just haven't found the need for it, plus I worry about having to cut it down and leaving that little sharp piece of wire sticking out at the end

Most people fish semi-fixed leads, so I want to be different, and I think that running leads give increased indication and proper screamers. Ye iv been put off my lead clip set up ever since my mate started catchin more than me wen he started using leadcore on a helicopter rig, our baits were the same but he seemed to always catch a few more than me, i think im gonna have a re think and expiriment with different rig styles.... plus rig tubings really starting to pee me off not being able to slide the line thru it Rig tubing is easy to thread! Use a Gardner Tube threader, or a diamond eye pole elastic threader and it will go through almost any tubing. I can thread Solar tubing with standard mainline though with no problems. I gave up using Korda as no matter what I couldn't thread it. I do NOT think that Leadcore is a safe fishing option, in any way shape or form: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=39794 http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=32598 http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=38886&highlight=advanced+carp+fishing http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=40711&highlight=advanced+carp+fishing Thats just a few for you

Most people fish semi-fixed leads, so I want to be different, and I think that running leads give increased indication and proper screamers.

Tel, Thank you for the consideration of the thoughts posted. Unfortunately I believe that manufacturers are sometimes pushed into releasing products without due consideration, fashion or maybe because of "fish at all costs". I'll post this pic again as it shows my standard lead set-up, a running lead going up and down tubing, although the rig is "top secret" As you can see on this occasion I hadn't pinned the tubing down with putty, although sometimes I do, it depends on whether I feel that the fish are spooking off the tubing if it has raised off the lakebed. Looks good i personally wudnt be confident with such a long hair but im sure u have reasons for this, would u use this set up with slack lines? as its a running rig I'll let you into a secret, Long Hairs work better than short ones in most cases And what is a tight line? I haven't used tight lines for years unless the conditions are so bad that I can't them them slack. A running rig is only a running rig if it is fished with a slack line.

The set-up pictured above works for pop-ups or bottom baits, and over various types of lakebed Just tie a rig to suit how you think is best

Tel, Thank you for the consideration of the thoughts posted. Unfortunately I believe that manufacturers are sometimes pushed into releasing products without due consideration, fashion or maybe because of "fish at all costs". I'll post this pic again as it shows my standard lead set-up, a running lead going up and down tubing, although the rig is "top secret" As you can see on this occasion I hadn't pinned the tubing down with putty, although sometimes I do, it depends on whether I feel that the fish are spooking off the tubing if it has raised off the lakebed.

I don't use a leader, EXCEPT where I am distance casting. I use straight through mainline with the last 30centimetres protected by tubing. For Silt/Helicopter rigs get a piece of RIGID tubing of between 1-5cms, a rubber bead (2 if you want it to be able to slide up and down the line, or use a tail rubber to hold the tubing in place), a bullet buffer bead or tail rubber, and a ring swivel. Tie your rig onto the swivel as normal, and use the ring on the swivel to go onto the rigid tubing. Put the rubber bead onto the tubing to hold the rig in place, and then push the tubing into the tail rubber or bullet bead. You can either tie the lead on or use a quick link style clip, and the bullet bead protects the knot. If it is free running the tubing can slide up and down the mainline. It CAN also be used with a leader, and because the rubber bead (NOT glued into place), will eject off the tubing in the event of a snap-off, the ring swivel and rig can also be ejected. Aside from the fact that I had been playing with a rig set-up using hooks that are over 10years old to give me an idea, this is still pretty much my current set-up for sliding or helicopter set-ups

No, I'm not misunderstanding. And in this case it wasn't Leadclip it was a Safezone Helicopter leader, where the rig should be able to be ejected. Shockleader, the only need for a leader, absolute distance casting, and NOT if there are snags!