salokcinnodrog

From Cemex Friday night the 31st July 2009: http://www.cemexangling.co.uk/new_site/venueinfo.php?function=viewvenue&venueid=213 I'm pretty positive I've posted about Ringland before, if I have just by posting on an existing thread would bring it back to the top

A number of lakes, with limited membership on each, very difficult to get into, or find info on. You get onto lake1 (eventually, if you are lucky, have just won the lottery and a bird has pooed on your shoulder ), then as the existing members see your ability then you get your membership upgraded the next year with the increase in cost onto the next lake etc. As for getting Contact Details, very difficult, pretty much the same people/person as the West Stow syndicate, which has the same sort of restrictions I think. The only difference is you can actually walk around The Stow as it is in the middle of the Country Park From Thetford, you may well be better off heading towards Cambridge for waters

Sensible idea, and I do the same, however as I use Combi rigs with a loop I still want the Amnesia Boom straight and loop perfectly formed when fishing, I do make sure I can straighten them on the bank. I rub some heat into the Amnesia, either through my fingers or up and down the trouser legs, then get a Solar Bead thing, (that you use to put the beads on tubing), and push that through the loop, get forceps or grips on the hook and then straighten the hooklink with gradual increase of tension, NO jerky movements. It also means that I'm additional testing my knots as well

Now you're asking something, its such a long time since I fished it that I can't really remember the make up of the bottom , although I seem to remember it was fairly hard bottomed, a few silt patches. It seemed to have a bit of a tinge, not majorly coloured, you could make out the fish about 30cms under the surface at 30metres range, but not the exact size or enough to identify them.

Go to Search facility, type in "Suffolk waters", specify UK Where to fish section of the forum, then click search all terms. You will find a MASSIVE list of Suffolk waters come up Lets just say what I know about Creeting is not that good. Probably your best bet is to get into a good club, and accept that you will have to wait for a fish as what is available in Suffolk is very limited.

Welcome to the Forum. 6,7,8, sounds like the "Wooded" bank from memory, but I'm not totally sure, its a long time since I've been there. You get booked into your pegs and can't move on Yew Tree, unless a swim is free, which really puts Stalking them down. The Carp do move about the Lake, as do the Catfish, but the Carp can be seen as they move. You will pretty much know if you are in the right area as they do show up in the water and give themselves away. Cats can and will take Fish based baits, and scrap like heck, even the smaller ones, although the carp will take the same baits , and I know that Trigga did work on there. The majority of anglers fish TIGHT to the emergent features, which are pretty obvious, islands etc. When you cast if you are on the pylon bank, be very careful with your casting, as the pylons do eat up tackle, as do the trees on the islands. Check the Current Rules very carefully as the Bailiffs can be very strict

Mate, As I say the best PVA going I regularly order from his shop (even if I do take the E-bay link I've saved in favourites ). Whenever I buy anything I forward a copy of the PayPal receipt and just check and confirm the delivery. I even get an e-mail confirmation (often personalised rather than the "mass produced" sale) back as well. Always spot on, arrives when he says.

Thats the joys of carp fishing mate!!! Put it this way, I've hardly used Fluorocarbon or Mono as a hooklink except for Surface fishing (yes Fluoro with Vaseline on it for Surface, minus the last bit near the hook), sticking to Braid (Combi links or straight) and Coated Braid for years. I manage to catch a few fish. It may be a case of picking a braid that matches the Lakebed as much as possible, or it could be the suppleness creates confusion, whatever, to me Braid works and I do a lot better because I have confidence in it than when I use Mono or Flurocarbon I think that Fluorcarbon also has slightly less stretch than Mono. Mono is between 18-25% I think, compared to the 15% (ish) of Fluoro

Not forgetting that with Mo's Co (in my view the BEST PVA supplies), if you spend over £10 (before carriage) you get a free goody from him. I've always received a small packet of Long Distance Lick and Stick Bags. These are perfect for up to 4x 18mm Boilies or a small amount of crumb. Tucker, You say about Oil based ingredients slowing down the dissolve time of PVA, even dropping the Bags in High Oil pellets can slow the dissolve time down to the eventuality of not dissolving at all

Blast from the past, and I know that it has been mentioned on the forum before I'm going to have to point you in the direction of the Search facility as I can't paste in the link. Go to Search, click "search all terms", specify The UK where to fish section of the forum, and then click search. You will have about 10 threads come up. Information is sparse, and I don't know current rules or stocks; It is a long long time since I fished it. Just watch out for the Crays

The big "bundle" of PVA splodge where it is all tied up can take a lot longer to dissolve than the main bag. Knots also take a lot longer. I very rarely use PVA Tape or string to tie a bag off, I put hook and hooklink inside, kept from tangling by the Pellets/boilie crumb etc, then the lead, top it off with more filler, twist the top shut and then get a wet finger and totally slide and twist. I know that I will get a Splurge where it takes longer to dissolve, but I have checked the dissolve of the bags previously, and know that the main bag has dissolved.

You might be right in some cases but far from all. Before I even try to fish a lake I try to get a detailed underwater substrate report, I then do a lot of leading with a 4oz-pear lead and 60 lb braid. By tying the two together I get a good idea of how the bigger carp will feed. That then tells me what type of rig I should be using. What a lot of people cannot get into their heads is a lot of different rig work in exactly the same way mechanically. What you are trying to do is find the method of feeding, then you choose one of the rigs that will present the bait in a fashion that will work mechanically on that feeding fish. The reason so many rigs have been invented is that people will always try and make a rig that will hook better/quicker than any other in the same situation. The person who sticks to one rig alone is the person denying themselves of valuable fish. Earlier this year I fished an estate lake. I fished running leads and the hook was knotless knotted with an aggressive hair on normal nylon line with bottom baits. I was catching fish like there was no tomorrow and there was no reason to change. But these were nave fish in turbid water. The following week I was on quite different water, an old very large gravel pit with a very low stock. If I had fished the same as the previous week I think I would have caught in the end by luck, but I do not think I would have caught what I did. I fished running leads again but the rig consisted of the much-maligned 360o rig attached to flouro and critically balanced snowmen. If you saw how the fish were hooked you would not have any doubts; to say the hooks were in is an understatement. There is another side to this. The selfish person inside of me says the less people think about these things and stick to their guns and use simple rigs, the better it is for the like of me. Frank I love it when I can follow Frank's posts with such an observation and him quoting and giving such a reply to a very well thought out query as yours DW, For years my first thought has always been to keep it as simple as possible when moving onto a new water, on the Reservoir I did use Knotless knotted or line aligned rigs to coated braid with the exception of snowman baits when I preferred a D-rig (don't know, don't ask. I actually queried my thinking on the "Complicated rigs" thread that is still available in Advanced Carp Fishing section), however like Frank I work out the Lakebed to suit what rigs I use for what I want to achieve. When I moved onto the Hertfordshire syndicate I figured that the lake was going to be more pressured than my standard waters and that I wanted to use Double baits with a Snowman. I had not been able to see any Carp feeding on a previous visit. I had also figured that I needed a rig that could behave similarly on clay and gravel. This pressure I figured would mean that basic rigs while giving the potential to work if the feeding situation was right, would be regularly used. As a result I wanted something that the Carp had NOT seen, or unlikely to have seen before or for a long time, this rig turned out to be very effective, but other rigs would probably or maybe possibly have produced the same result if put in the right place. In Franks post the last line makes me chuckle as in the past I have said "keep it simple", but I match my hooklink material to the lakebed to be as camouflaged as possible. It would make many anglers cringe when they see the effects I go to camouflage Lead, hooklink etc

I think a lot of people forget that Rigs tend to be designed for the Fish in a particular water (Withy Pool Rig, Bent Hook rig (I won't advocate that definitely), Savay Looney Rig etc), and as such the rig needs to be set for how particular fish behave. Yet across various waters there are similarities, and there is also "Rig Fashion" as published by the magazines. As I said in my previous post, the majority of anglers are currently using whatever is the Magazines latest wonder presentation, not really thinking about their fishing and how the carp in their water behave. Go onto an "overstocked commercial" and just about any rig put in the right place with the right feed situation will produce, that can be a standard knotless knotted rig. The fish need to feed, they need to take an anglers baits and so the rig is just there as a risk. Yet on highly pressured Big Fish waters, where the BIG Carp are more wary then the rigs will need to be adapted to produce and be something that the Carp are not expecting. It is there that Rig development comes from, but, always that but, the anglers who catch those Big Fish get their name in lights, or the press, and that rig that they have adapted or developed is the new or regurgitated fashion. Also most anglers who fish waters do not move on in the logical extension to the standard. From the standard hair the basic adaption was by Hutchy to an Extending hair or Roger Smiths D-rig, both very successful, yet I bet a vast number of anglers have just jumped past these adaptations to the current wonder rig.

Believe it or not I don't work on Rig Mechanics. For the majority of my Carp fishing since 1994 I have used pretty basic Line aligners or Knotless knotted rigs, although depending on situation I have used D-rigs or my version of the revolving/sliding hair rig. I also know that the over the "Palm" and "over the thumb" tests can show that a hook will flip in to the fishes mouth, yet in reality it doesn't always do that. In most cases the only thing we need to change are the rig length or the hair length, yet I'm willing to bet that very few people actually look into the fishes mouth to see exactly where the Hook has hit home (unless they've watched Danny Fairbrass DVD's ) Nowadays the fashion is for Branded rigs and hooks, the Curve/Kurve, Longshank, Wide Gape etc, yet people do not think about the actual tying or even the hooklink material, all of which can make a hook behave differently depending on the fish, or even what the lakebed is made up of. In most cases most of the anglers who are confusing themselves seeing what they do in the articles would be far better off with that Drennan Super Specialist and putting that simple rig in the right place rather than worrying about the rig as opposed to its location

Go to the Search facility at the top of the page, type in Hertfordshire and then specify "Uk Where to fish section" and also click "search all terms". There is a whole thread devoted to various Day Ticket waters in Hertfordshire. For syndicates and clubs I know for a fact that there is very little on here. In fact from the area you have specified I also know that just by driving/cycling around you will find absolutely loads of waters

Even my Loop knots get attached to a swivel. If you use a swivel and want to use a loop knot, then the knot in the Kryston packaging works with minimal loss of strength. Tie, but don't pull tight, an overhand knot where you want the loop to end, put swivel or link on, with tag end go down through the overhand knot and then go 4 times round the main piece of line and then back up through the overhand loop. Lubricate knot and gradually pull both ends to tighten. Never had one of them give way

I wouldn't say the Snowman is a rig, more of a presentation. You can adapt a number of rigs to become Snowman style, simply by using a longer than than you would for a single bait. D-rig, Sliding/Revolving hair, or even basic knotless knotted can all be adapted to Snowman baits. As for where to use it, anywhere you feel confident in its abilities and your approach

There are a couple, but very difficult to get into. Very closed Syndicates. SWP is the best bet. I live in Suffolk and travel away for my fishing!

I use a loop knot attached to the swivel with Amnesia and Combi rigs, and a Uni knot for Braid and coated braids. It is the movement issue that I figure on. A stiffer hooklink will not move as much as a more supple hooklink, so to allow that extra movement and confidence I work out what I need to achieve, that includes checking what sort of material I need for the hooklink.

A number of manufacturers do Hair braid, or use whipping thread (very strong for the same thickness as cotton). To the hooklink, tie the hair material (my favoured Uni knot ), and then slide it down the front of the hooklink to the top of the knot and tighten and then through the eye from the front, point side to the back. You can then fix your hair loop and a gentle overhand knot will hold it to the shank. If you are Silicon or Shrink tube covering the hook then it looks even tidier

From the current rules I gather that on Slipe Lane is baiting up with Stringers and Bags only! I know what I've been told in regard to fish stocks and weights of fish, weed and features, but is there any more up to date information on Slipe Lane around at all?

WOW, a whole days wait! It can take a couple of days (or up to a week) for people to see a thread and reply on that subject You won't find much on going swims as due to the happenings at the lakes there are as yet no real hot swims. (Last year fish were moved from lake to lake as the Trout lake was closed for Trout fishing and Trout removed. Carp and other coarse fish then moved and stocked into the other lakes). The only way to find out is to get yourself down there and fish and learn as you go. The only advice that I can offer you regarding bait is that my mate who fished it was getting some of his boilies from me, and I've been on Smokey Mackeral for a couple of years. When he bought his own (and also for another mate) they used B&F co and bought what they were used to. I'm not sure what his groundbait and spod mix was made up off, but I know that again they used B&F. So that may be worth a start and see if they can offer any help

It has been used on Drayton Reservoir as a viable catching method, regular baiting, catapulting boilies, groundbait over the float. Mostly by the Match anglers who used to fish there. Add some floating bits into your groundbait, so you have a groundbait that sinks and then some of the particles float up along with some groundbait that breaks up and go down you create an area that has particles (as in pieces) constantly in the area.

You dont tend to find to many mains hook ups on the bank though I like useing the kettle for shrink tube, esp when useing coated braids, never had a problem as long as you take care, and it also give's you the chance to run the coated braid through the steam aswell, which when held under tension it will cool prefectly straight, ensureing that rig will fall away from our lead You know my rig tubs, full of rigs tied at home I very rarely tie a rig on the bank. It is not just Shrink Tube either that can be used to "lengthen" the shank, certain silicon or other tubing can be used for the same effect, and also reduces to a certain extent that knot movement that WickieShaun was talking about.

Regarding the Line aligner vs Shrink Tubing vs Knotless Knot: By adding a length of shrink tubing almost any pattern of hook can be improved by lengthening the shank. A standard piece of Shrink tubing straight over the eye, or Knotless knot does not always cause the hook to flip in and hook properly, IT DOES depend on the pattern of the hook in some cases (or in my opinion it does ), hence the preference for a line aligner by some. Who says you need to use a Kettle to get your Shrink tubing right? Use a Hair dryer then when in shape drop in COLD water to hold the shape Saying that I've never found a braided hooklink to get damaged over the spout of the kettle as it boils