salokcinnodrog

I had an issue with the Albright knot, and knots are something I practise and practise until I get right, so for more than one to fail, meant that something wasn't right. It may have been the 2 hooklink materials not matching, as knots have different material preferences I use a pretty lazy knot for my Combi-rigs, an overhand in the stiff material, and then with the braided material going through the overhand knot, I tie a Uni knot up the stiff material. This is the knot I use for shockleaders as well, so i know that they don't give. I will say however, after every fish, check your knots on a combi-link. I have lost fish when I was too lazy (stupid) to do do, and the hooklink knot gave way after the pressure of landing a 20lb+ fish on it previous cast. I've pinched this from the Spod and Marker Set-up thread in Past Hot Topics (my own post): There is a Sticky in Rig Tying about tying various knots for Shockleaders, but I still recommend this knot for Braid to Mono: Tie an Overhand knot in the Shockleader and then thread the braid through it, then do the loops around the Leader, wet and pull tight.

Looks like the original hair concept, only with a braided hair instead of the original mono methinks. A method that is now relatively unused, and I know of very few people who tie on their hairs now, although I do have a few secret edges for that. Light mono, Cotton, excellent hair material, as is dental floss, but the secret is rod whipping thread I just used to use a blood knot and lighter tag the end or actually *** tag (Don't think about it) so I didn't melt the hair material down past the knot as I was prone to do Advantages, you can play around with hair length without needing to tie up a whole new rig. Disadvantage over knotless knot, fiddly to tie if you are all fingers and thumbs. Another method I would use was to tie the hair material into the eye of the hook, and then whip down the hookshank to just above the bend, fix with half hitch and then tie the loop at the end of the hair. It camouflages the hook, the theory of mine being that a matt finish is not so shiny as the bright hook.

Years ago I bought a set of Century Armalites, hand built by John Wilson when he had his shop in Norwich, John's Tackle Den it was. I eventually replaced them with a set of standard Armalite mk ll's. The ring spacing was slightly different, and the handle wasn't quite the right length for me, so I stripped down the blanks and rebuilt them, to my own specifications. The SP's I bought around 2003 were off the shelf, and seemed right anyway. As for my NG's, custom built. However these are not cheapo budget range rods at all anyway Now I'm not sure, but I think that cheaper standard range rods are not likely to be as well built as more 'luxury' up market tackle ranges. I noticed someone mentioned the spline of a rod not always being lined up on a factory built spec, and I have seen this in action, in fact if I remember rightly, Sharpy86 may even have something to say abut Free Spirit rods not always being lined up properly. Some of it is undoubtedly snobbishness, yet some of it is getting it right for you.

I have found that by putting a needle through a cork ball pop-up not only changes its buoyancy, the paste or boilie skin can actually fall off the cork ball. Like Ouch, I prefer to tie my pop-ups on, although I nearly always use specific pop-up mix pop-ups now. If I was using cork ball pop-ups, I would also use a braided loop/dental floss loop as opposed to mono, which may cut into the boilie skin as well

I actually have a use for leadcore with this type of set-up, it is the lead link. I also use a standard run ring, in fact The leadcore can be spliced on, but I decided that for this length I would whip and brace (what is the correct name?) and then lighter tag the ends so they won't pull through the whipping. The run ring on this means that should it get snagged it will pull free, and the fish will not be trailing any nasties other than the rig.

You mean something like this? Can be fished without the stop knot above the bead, although the version above is one Derek Ritchie used on a weedy water, but it will work equally as well on silt (and in some cases better than a Silt/chod set-up. I would also play around with the hooklink and lead link lengths to get it right for you

And with leadcore and pendant or inline set-ups, it only takes a tiny kink and the fish could now be trailing a death rig. If you have to use leadcore, then only ever with a helicopter set-up, but my advice, is ditch the leadcore totally. I know about inline running leads, and yes, they can work, but are they working as we think they are? I came to the conclusion, if I want a running lead, use a run ring. If I want to fish in weed with an inline, then use a straight semi-fixed inline

Just reading this and realised I didn't make it particularly clear. I make the hair from the mono, by tying a uni knot loop at the end, and putting pop-up in to get the hair length right. With the pop-up in place, I then attach the hair to the ring allowing enough space for a bottom bait as well. I then remove the pop-up, and put bottom bait on the hair with baiting needle, the pop-up then gets put back into the loop. The pop-up effectively becomes the bait stop.

I leave the tag end of the knot at the top of the bag nice and large, so that I can use the tags to knot around the lead clip or mainline just above the run ring. I then put the hook through the bottom corner of the bag. This method also works with mesh bags as well as solid PVA. I must admit though, I do prefer to make them up on the bank for each cast rather than have ready made bags. It may cost me a bit of time, but when I'm fishing, I have plenty of time spare. I don't like hooking them straight to the hook on its own, I worry about a wind-milling cast tangling up. I also like the hooklink not being straightened out, and having to feather a cast will straighten a hooklink if the PVA is on the hook alone.

Sorry, I am sure that leadcore does damage fish as it rubs over them, and I don't think that mono line does. Do you use a leader when floater fishing? When stalking or when zig rigging? All methods that are likely to be mainline through to a hooklink. Frank, (Levigsp) and I are convinced that leadcore rubs, and can friction burn, even if the scar doesn't show up instantly. I used to use leadcore (exclusively), and have caught fish that have long marks down their flanks from what I'm sure is leadcore rub. Add to that, a 40lb leacore or to some extent any leader is used by some to haul fish from areas where they simply shouldn't be fishing anyway simply because it is snaggy or weedy etc. Now I'm certain that the leadcore argument will go on and on, simply because some people don't care, some because that is what is published, and some who don't feel swayed by argument or debate. I have the view that I will not use a leader at all, unless I need to cast long distances, when a mono leader (Amnesia or Greased Weasel) is used to take the shock of casting. If there is weed or snags, tough, I have to accept I can't cast as far. I make sure that my lead can be ejected; a run ring will slide over most leader/mainline knots, or I have a Heath Robinson homemade bead set-up for silt/helicopter or that dreaded chod word should I ever need to use them. A piece of stiff tubing, a rubber bead at each end, with a ring swivel for the rig in between. The rubber bead will pop off the end of the tubing, the ring swivel and rig can come off the tubing, and up over the line or any knot. This homemade set-up can be fished as a semi-fixed arrangement when I need the rig near the lead (long casting), or as a free running silt set-up by athe addition of a tail rubber in place of bottom bead to 'fix' it to the lead attachment.

I like that top rig, although please make sure that the lead swivel will pass over the leader knot Maybe use a larger run ring? You may find that you don't need the tubing so long coming down the hooklink. Also if you use a coated braid with a section stripped back from the hook, the stiffness near the hooklink mainline/leader join will help prevent tangles to some extent as well

I had some nuggets that I knew were fresh in my tackle box, but only a few so I threw them away, well out my bedroom window. It has since rained, had storms etcs, but the sad remains of a few of the nuggets are still stuck on the lead flashing. i have doubted that all of them dissolve properly, and in fact I think that some baits have been zig rigged without anglers realising it. After casting in when using them, I was only ever happy if I could see the nugget come to the surface after breaking away from the hook. The ducks on the lake would then be picking up the mush,

I use both the stripped back and the combi-rig. With a combi-rig, I would suggest that you check the knot between the materials after every fish, and change the hooklink regularly. I have had a knot fail after I played and landed a good 20, then without checking the knot between the braid and Amnesia cast out, and then lost another good fish when the knot gave way. My fault for NOT checking! With the stripped back hooklink, the same rig can be used to land a number of fish, obviously checking hook and the knots as well, but you only have to check hook knot and mainline join, compared to the 3 on the combi-link.

Swivels are more than just a convenience for me, and I still don't think that they work as intended, probably partly because we cover one side with a nice lead clip or rubber sleeve, to stop tangles, but also because I don't think that line as it compresses and twists will exert enough 'pressure' to untwist. I think a swivel needs a fair amount of force to make it swivel. One thing that they are very handy for is attaching the hooklink to the mainline. The eye is large enough to pass the mainline (or hooklink) through twice to create a very safe strong knot. I don't like joining lengths of line together, (mono leader or braided (leadcore for those that have to ) a knot creates a weak spot; so joining a hooklink with a knot to mainline is a worry for me, although I do it when I'm small fish fishing with fine lines One very big advantage that swivels have in that join is regularly changing rigs, you automatically cut away a (short) length of the mainline, this piece of mainline just happens to be the section most likely to be damaged anyway, the lead rubbing over it, the run ring running up and down it, all will weaken that last bit especially, plus with the lead, it is the section that gets most force exerted on it during casting, causing stretch, and weakened line.

Gents, Please, all of you. I know, don't argue, be nice, play fair. Now I have edited this thread to remove some of the comments, and if I have deleted anything on the rig details of relevance, I apologise. Hopefully it makes sense, and still works.

I'll give you fair warning, superglued knots are very bad in fishing, and it is not just my view, especially with braids, as Dave Chilton makes this comment on the Kryston DVD, and his company sell a fishing glue. What happens is the knot can't move or flex, the glue then breaks, but as the glue breaks it tears the braided material. Unfortunately I have proved this by accident on t-shirts and jeans when I have 'splodged', and the clothes then rip on the glue spot

I never glue knots, superglue will cause lines and materials to fracture. As for a good loop knot to use, try this: http://www.kryston.com/articles/ultimate-knots/ Non Slip loop

One of my Nazeing rigs from last January, I still use this on a free running lead, running on the mainline, with no tubing. In fact, this rig I cut off one of my rods when changing the line: Mantis coated braid, stripped back, knotless knotted, and a hair with additional loop created for tied on pop-up, above standard bottom bait, a snowman presentation. The small piece of silicone on the shank means the hair leaves opposite the barb. This very rig produced 4 carp without changing the rig or hook. If it's sharp and good enough, no need to change it

I'll cut the post down a bit as I don't want a massive quote; Doppelganger has been on the market for around 10years or so I would reckon