salokcinnodrog

I've brought this back from the Abyss, as I was going through my photobucket and found a couple of rig pics I took on a lake. It is not the most coloured water, yet even up close and personal, it is almost impossible to see the actual rig underwater. I know the hookbaits are easily visible, I know that on one it is possible to see the tubing, and looking carefully, the lead. These pics may have been taken in the margins, but just how visible is the rig out in the main lake where the water is deeper and visbility not so clear. Is the main lake going to be so clear in gravel as it is in the top picture? As an add, from the top picture, I did actually catch a carp from that spot!

A simple rig ring will work, as would a standard quick link. A swivel is used for the ease of attaching the line at either end, and it sure as heck doesn't prevent line twist or allow the swivels to spin freely Swivels also make for good locking deviices, locking the lead clip, locking the inline lead to a swivel is easy

As simple as you can get, although I used to use braid where the River Gipping was quite slow. An inline lead, braided hooklink, knotless knotted and line aligned. As much of my fishing was up close and personal on such a small river I was able to lower the lead and rig in with no worry about tangles. On areas I had to cast, then a PVA bag kept it tangle free

Being as the Match lake is only fished during the day, other than fish being moved occasionally between the 2 at night, it didn't get the problems of the Main/Specimen Lake. It holds a fair number of 'match size' carp, some roach and bream and maybe a perch or 2

Okey cokey, being as it is 'my area' and I know a bit about the whole complex. Breakaway Melton had problems in the past with drug users, dealers and the bailiff, tackle thefts etc all being 'inter-related'. This bailiff was ejected, and the replacement was very quick to stamp his authority in an attempt to bring things right, but unfortunately this upset a number of the idiots who carried on causing grief, so the new bailiff then quit. He has since been replaced by a gentleman, who I know reasonably well, who will put you right, and tell you if you are wrong! However there are still the occasional idiots fishing Melton as it is day ticket. I posted this on another thread around November time: You have the choice, as it is a water I fish a bit, and would like to continue fishing, I would hope that you are able to make your choice from this. It is a nice venue, with some nice fish, it has had troubles, but is hopefully on the way up, and if I ever meet you on there, I can only hope that you find what I have said the truth and we can have a chat.

And why didn't I think of that Possibly cos of the worry of finding the hole after, but considering I bell the end of the plastic inserts on inline leads in that manner to hold the sleeve on, I should know better

Solar did do the http://www.solartackle.co.uk/products/rig-gear?ptitle=bullet-buffer-beads_159 to fit their gear, but rubber tulip beads also work: http://www.tacklebox.co.uk/terminal-tackle/beads/anchor-rubber-tulip-beads.html I found that occasionally all of the tubing pulls out of the beads (hence part of my choice for going naked, but these beads seem to work best and take most tubing. I suppose it is possible to safely glue the tubing into the bead, (the run ring will ensure the lead is able to come off, and in the event of a mainline snap it usually goes at the hooklink swivel) but then the tubing after a while will possibly crack at the bead.

In the link, I know the bottom pic shows my rig length and make-up. That is not to say it is right or wrong, but I prefer to have two thirds of the length being the stiff material. I know others have different feelings on that.

Don't know if anyone is interested in the Traditional Lake at Suffolk Water Park: http://www.suffolkwaterpark.co.uk/the-lakes/traditional-lake

Combi-rig pic and set up on this thread: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=57620 The rig in the pic had actually been on the rods, and had recently landed a new PB for me, hence the knot tail of the mainline being just cut off the rods, and rig photographed

If I said Amnesia would you be surprised? In 20 or 30lb breaking strain, and black or clear dependant on lakebed. I honestly don't think that in many cases the hooklink really matters if it is camouflaged on the lakebed, there will be weed, twigs, sticks, stones and everything that all show up, and so break up the hooklink materials from being too obvious. Add to that, and in the depths of the lake, I bet your clear water is a lot more murky I think it was the first material used for a combi-rig tied to braid, and I started using it back in the 1990's and still use it today. The only change now I that I'm pretty much using Merlin for the braided section almost exclusively

I'm not sure that the lead is ever responsible for hooking the fish, unless the carps acceleration and the lead weight are at absolute... I used to use 2-3oz inlines a lot (but not for around 10 years, went to running leads), a length of tubing, braided hooklink and know I could stick the whole lot in a bag. My thought was always that the quicker the fish moved off and got to the lead, with least movement from the lead and the hooklink swivel, then the sooner the hook would pr ick and the run would be indicated. Fished with a dead tight line, absolutely no slack and the indicator at the top just under the rod. It worked for years with monkey climbers, and then with swingers. I used the standard Korda leads, and plastic inserts supplied, then lighter flamed and belled the end of the insert on the hooklink end. Over that I would then fix a neoprene sleeve and that locked over the swivel.

I can honestly say I have not used a hooklink anti tangle sleeve. I knot the hooklink material to the swivel, job done. No tangles, no worries and if the possibility of tangle is there (only with braid), then I have PVA.

Tie your hook on as normal, then with the soft braid for your hair material, tie that into the eye of the hook with a blood knot. I cover the eye and knots with shrink tubing to protect them. It does mean that you are changing rigs or retying when you need to change hair length though.

Ty checked out combi rig looks like a super rig like the fact that when casted the stiff boom would petrude with minimal chace of a tangle give the hook total freedom to move, simila to a rig i usually us just with out the stiff material and instaed i peel back coating of hook length. will get on the combi over week end. how effective do you find it ? Hi Mate, Being as it is your post, could you do a copy and paste of the link onto this thread: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=55800 I'd do it myself, but being as you dug out the link, you should get the post and credit I have put a pic up on another thread of my combi-rig set-up, but reckon I can put it up again here: You don't have to use the sliding/revolving rig ring, a plain straight knotless knot will work, but in the other thread I believe I give my explanation of why I use the revolving ring. Also the supple section can be any braid you prefer, and the boom I know a fair number of anglers prefer a fluorocarbon, but I'm old fashioned, and why change what works for me?

It is a method I use a lot, when stalking fish, and when I know that they visit the area. I often bait a few areas up, then fish a few minutes in each one before re-baiting and moving on around the lake. It produces a lot of good fish for me, tench and carp. I also enjoy teaming it up with a centre pin, there is nothing like the screech of the reel as you get a proper take after plenty of dips and glides of the float when the fish are brushing the line.

Nige, Have you tried this rig although using a plain standard ring instead of the swivel? I understand that a swivel will give a little bit more weight to balance the pop-up, but I think that a rig ring will still give correct movement along the D-rig section

I deleted my previous post on this thread as I felt I had to quantify some of my comments: I thought about it, I worked on it, and I came up with the same as I used however long ago I originally put this up, although I have changed the hook pattern. I use the same hook arrangement with a coated braid and a combi rig, although the only difference between the two is the choice of coated braid or combi: These rigs can be used for snowman, pop-up or bottom baits with little change. The hair length on a pop-up is shortened, in fact the bait is tied in a loop and then attached to the rig ring tight to the hook shank. I then use the knot on the combi-rig or the end of the stripped section to attach putty to for the pop-up height. With the snowman I put the bait in the loop and then tie the hair at the length I think is right, so that the bottom bait of the two will be on the hair. As for a plain bog standard bottom bait, the hair is tied on with a standard loop and then hair stop is used to hold it in place. The advantage of the rig ring is that I can change the hair length to suit my fishing, rather than break it all down to change it.

Plenty of theories for and against a pop-up in a PVA bag. The pop-up is the most noticeable piece of food, carp eats first, gets hooked. Alternate, the bottom bait is just hoovered up by carp as it eats patch of food. Both work, or both fail and don't do as well as you expect... Is this any use?

I seem to remember the word Dream Lakes coming into this thread somewhere, and Mainline do make their Dream Lakes Specials; Boilies that they 'recommend' for use on the lake. If that is the going bait, and plenty get put in, then I would likely have a hedge bet and take some of them with me Now I know that shoals of fish can really clear up a fair amount of bait, and so I would probably say 10k of that and at least the same or more of another bait I had confidence in. It would probably be fill it in to start with (dependant on advice), fish over it, then top up as I needed.

You may possibly find these useful: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=57582 http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=55800 The second link I gave you, I updated it last year, but I still use those style rigs, even though the pics I put up myself (my own rigs on there) and thread originally went up around 2008

Other link still working as it is Zander1's Chod rig 'Rant' in Past Hot Topics

Korda sliders?

Copied and pasted from http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=57613&sid=363dc90a90e20fa7fc103dc03e3f89ee I don't use one mate, I haven't really used boilies for the last couple of years I'm just saying with their track record you'll be safe with them. I'd use them any time if I were back on the boilies.

The ring swivels should in theory help prevent snap-offs, but from experience, they don't work as said on the tin If you slide a perfectly smooth piece of metal up and down a rope, the rope will start to fray, and eventually wear through, that is what I believe happens with ring swivels. Add to that if the ring swivel is in contact with the lakebed, and I reckon it happens a bit, then you may get a piece of grit or stone may take a tiny chunk out of the ring swivel. I use swivels a fair bit, and I have seen even braid will wear tiny nicks into the metalwork, if that happens on a ring swivel, another chance of a snap-off. The Cox and Rawle Beach Beads I refer to in the other threads, I have a link, however, no matter what Cox and Rawle say DO NOT glue them together, and put the bead with the large hole up the line nearest the rod tip. You can then put either a ring swivel or a standard swivel on the taper: http://www.coxandrawle.com/products/accessories/beach-beads