salokcinnodrog

And with leadcore and pendant or inline set-ups, it only takes a tiny kink and the fish could now be trailing a death rig. If you have to use leadcore, then only ever with a helicopter set-up, but my advice, is ditch the leadcore totally. I know about inline running leads, and yes, they can work, but are they working as we think they are? I came to the conclusion, if I want a running lead, use a run ring. If I want to fish in weed with an inline, then use a straight semi-fixed inline

I've moved this into UK Where to fish section This thread may also help: http://www.carp.com/topic/19088-lake-to-hire/ I would also suggest Taverham Mills in Norfolk, may be a fair drive to you though. http://www.taverham-mill.com/ Other places I can think of, quite difficult with very few carp, but some cracking tench (I believe it had otter problems in the past, but none there at present), Horcott near RAF Fairford. Season Ticket costs the whole sum of £16 last season, and the bailiff is on the bank almost all the time. (http://www.spotfish.co.uk/fishery/horcott-angling-club)

Just reading this and realised I didn't make it particularly clear. I make the hair from the mono, by tying a uni knot loop at the end, and putting pop-up in to get the hair length right. With the pop-up in place, I then attach the hair to the ring allowing enough space for a bottom bait as well. I then remove the pop-up, and put bottom bait on the hair with baiting needle, the pop-up then gets put back into the loop. The pop-up effectively becomes the bait stop.

I leave the tag end of the knot at the top of the bag nice and large, so that I can use the tags to knot around the lead clip or mainline just above the run ring. I then put the hook through the bottom corner of the bag. This method also works with mesh bags as well as solid PVA. I must admit though, I do prefer to make them up on the bank for each cast rather than have ready made bags. It may cost me a bit of time, but when I'm fishing, I have plenty of time spare. I don't like hooking them straight to the hook on its own, I worry about a wind-milling cast tangling up. I also like the hooklink not being straightened out, and having to feather a cast will straighten a hooklink if the PVA is on the hook alone.

Sorry, I am sure that leadcore does damage fish as it rubs over them, and I don't think that mono line does. Do you use a leader when floater fishing? When stalking or when zig rigging? All methods that are likely to be mainline through to a hooklink. Frank, (Levigsp) and I are convinced that leadcore rubs, and can friction burn, even if the scar doesn't show up instantly. I used to use leadcore (exclusively), and have caught fish that have long marks down their flanks from what I'm sure is leadcore rub. Add to that, a 40lb leacore or to some extent any leader is used by some to haul fish from areas where they simply shouldn't be fishing anyway simply because it is snaggy or weedy etc. Now I'm certain that the leadcore argument will go on and on, simply because some people don't care, some because that is what is published, and some who don't feel swayed by argument or debate. I have the view that I will not use a leader at all, unless I need to cast long distances, when a mono leader (Amnesia or Greased Weasel) is used to take the shock of casting. If there is weed or snags, tough, I have to accept I can't cast as far. I make sure that my lead can be ejected; a run ring will slide over most leader/mainline knots, or I have a Heath Robinson homemade bead set-up for silt/helicopter or that dreaded chod word should I ever need to use them. A piece of stiff tubing, a rubber bead at each end, with a ring swivel for the rig in between. The rubber bead will pop off the end of the tubing, the ring swivel and rig can come off the tubing, and up over the line or any knot. This homemade set-up can be fished as a semi-fixed arrangement when I need the rig near the lead (long casting), or as a free running silt set-up by athe addition of a tail rubber in place of bottom bead to 'fix' it to the lead attachment.

If you do decide on Lee valley, it's likely I'll be back on Nazeing. I've got withdrawal symptoms for the lagoons, and I'll happily put kettle on for you, if you can handle black coffee, and chat if you ever wander round when I'm there

No worries, I didn't want you jumping in at the deep end, fishing for fish you weren't ready for, either not knowing the effort required or the skill ability. A bit of a difference between an overstocked day ticket water with a couple of easy 30's or the more natural balanced fishery. I believe that Carthagena has taken this years membership on, but you'd be looking at around £400 if you went for that lake syndicate, although one of the 2 has 40's as well. It is actually not that far from Nazeing Meads, on the road from Broxbourne station towards Nazeing. Also come to mind is Kelvedon and District, Silver End, some old fish, very weedy, but I know quite difficult. Anyway if you follow the previous link I gave to Lee Valley there are a few in there, although North Met and Bowyers I think have a waiting list

I'm a little bit iffy in worrying about 'having to catch a 30', but that is just me, possibly because I don't know your ability level, and knowing how few and far between 30+ fish it has taken me with over 30years fishing experience, only ever catching 3 30's. Suffolk is pretty much a no, although NS fisheries, West Stow and Nunnery may have space, although very much a case of what you know (have a look at Suffolk Venues) I can point you directly to Lee Valley fisheries, and they are not syndicate. They have venues from the edge of London to Harlow, Broxbourne and Hoddesdon. Nazeing Meads has 3 lakes, Brackens, which has a few 30's, 2 acres, but quite a hard 'riggy' water, where the fish can shy away from pressure, or the Lagoons, which I know hold 30+ fish, although I have only managed to get to 27 so far from there. http://www.visitleevalley.org.uk/go/fisheries/ There is a gallery on each fishery as far as I can remember, and a few of the fish may look familiar

I like that top rig, although please make sure that the lead swivel will pass over the leader knot Maybe use a larger run ring? You may find that you don't need the tubing so long coming down the hooklink. Also if you use a coated braid with a section stripped back from the hook, the stiffness near the hooklink mainline/leader join will help prevent tangles to some extent as well

Suffolk Water Park gets very busy at times, and even with the board showing captures and weights, and anglers wanting to move swims, you really have to be fast if you change swims. You also get anglers queuing up behind you if they want to fish the swim and you show you are leaving! Parts of the lake are very weedy There is an existing thread on Suffolk Water Park, which I have added some of their catch reports on, so I will try to copy and paste this onto that thread: http://www.carp.com/topic/2029-suffolk-water-park/

I had some nuggets that I knew were fresh in my tackle box, but only a few so I threw them away, well out my bedroom window. It has since rained, had storms etcs, but the sad remains of a few of the nuggets are still stuck on the lead flashing. i have doubted that all of them dissolve properly, and in fact I think that some baits have been zig rigged without anglers realising it. After casting in when using them, I was only ever happy if I could see the nugget come to the surface after breaking away from the hook. The ducks on the lake would then be picking up the mush,

I use both the stripped back and the combi-rig. With a combi-rig, I would suggest that you check the knot between the materials after every fish, and change the hooklink regularly. I have had a knot fail after I played and landed a good 20, then without checking the knot between the braid and Amnesia cast out, and then lost another good fish when the knot gave way. My fault for NOT checking! With the stripped back hooklink, the same rig can be used to land a number of fish, obviously checking hook and the knots as well, but you only have to check hook knot and mainline join, compared to the 3 on the combi-link.

They may be competitors, but can I suggest you ask for some advice and maybe help from Mrs_rusheslake (Kim) on here and possibly Moorsey? They may be able to give you some on hand advice for setting up the fishery and getting the full licences and SIRET code etc. I know that although both are members on here, if you Google Moorlands and Rusheslake you should be able to find them, and they both have Facebook pages

Swivels are more than just a convenience for me, and I still don't think that they work as intended, probably partly because we cover one side with a nice lead clip or rubber sleeve, to stop tangles, but also because I don't think that line as it compresses and twists will exert enough 'pressure' to untwist. I think a swivel needs a fair amount of force to make it swivel. One thing that they are very handy for is attaching the hooklink to the mainline. The eye is large enough to pass the mainline (or hooklink) through twice to create a very safe strong knot. I don't like joining lengths of line together, (mono leader or braided (leadcore for those that have to ) a knot creates a weak spot; so joining a hooklink with a knot to mainline is a worry for me, although I do it when I'm small fish fishing with fine lines One very big advantage that swivels have in that join is regularly changing rigs, you automatically cut away a (short) length of the mainline, this piece of mainline just happens to be the section most likely to be damaged anyway, the lead rubbing over it, the run ring running up and down it, all will weaken that last bit especially, plus with the lead, it is the section that gets most force exerted on it during casting, causing stretch, and weakened line.

Gents, Please, all of you. I know, don't argue, be nice, play fair. Now I have edited this thread to remove some of the comments, and if I have deleted anything on the rig details of relevance, I apologise. Hopefully it makes sense, and still works.

I'll give you fair warning, superglued knots are very bad in fishing, and it is not just my view, especially with braids, as Dave Chilton makes this comment on the Kryston DVD, and his company sell a fishing glue. What happens is the knot can't move or flex, the glue then breaks, but as the glue breaks it tears the braided material. Unfortunately I have proved this by accident on t-shirts and jeans when I have 'splodged', and the clothes then rip on the glue spot

I never glue knots, superglue will cause lines and materials to fracture. As for a good loop knot to use, try this: http://www.kryston.com/articles/ultimate-knots/ Non Slip loop

Nice big set of reservoirs with some very nice fish, which unfortunately seemed to have picked up the nickname of 'The Stow' in the angling press: http://www.thameswater.co.uk/about-us/8986.htm http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Walthamstow_Reservoirs