salokcinnodrog

Combi-rig pic and set up on this thread: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=57620 The rig in the pic had actually been on the rods, and had recently landed a new PB for me, hence the knot tail of the mainline being just cut off the rods, and rig photographed

If I said Amnesia would you be surprised? In 20 or 30lb breaking strain, and black or clear dependant on lakebed. I honestly don't think that in many cases the hooklink really matters if it is camouflaged on the lakebed, there will be weed, twigs, sticks, stones and everything that all show up, and so break up the hooklink materials from being too obvious. Add to that, and in the depths of the lake, I bet your clear water is a lot more murky I think it was the first material used for a combi-rig tied to braid, and I started using it back in the 1990's and still use it today. The only change now I that I'm pretty much using Merlin for the braided section almost exclusively

I'm not sure that the lead is ever responsible for hooking the fish, unless the carps acceleration and the lead weight are at absolute... I used to use 2-3oz inlines a lot (but not for around 10 years, went to running leads), a length of tubing, braided hooklink and know I could stick the whole lot in a bag. My thought was always that the quicker the fish moved off and got to the lead, with least movement from the lead and the hooklink swivel, then the sooner the hook would pr ick and the run would be indicated. Fished with a dead tight line, absolutely no slack and the indicator at the top just under the rod. It worked for years with monkey climbers, and then with swingers. I used the standard Korda leads, and plastic inserts supplied, then lighter flamed and belled the end of the insert on the hooklink end. Over that I would then fix a neoprene sleeve and that locked over the swivel.

I can honestly say I have not used a hooklink anti tangle sleeve. I knot the hooklink material to the swivel, job done. No tangles, no worries and if the possibility of tangle is there (only with braid), then I have PVA.

Tie your hook on as normal, then with the soft braid for your hair material, tie that into the eye of the hook with a blood knot. I cover the eye and knots with shrink tubing to protect them. It does mean that you are changing rigs or retying when you need to change hair length though.

Ty checked out combi rig looks like a super rig like the fact that when casted the stiff boom would petrude with minimal chace of a tangle give the hook total freedom to move, simila to a rig i usually us just with out the stiff material and instaed i peel back coating of hook length. will get on the combi over week end. how effective do you find it ? Hi Mate, Being as it is your post, could you do a copy and paste of the link onto this thread: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=55800 I'd do it myself, but being as you dug out the link, you should get the post and credit I have put a pic up on another thread of my combi-rig set-up, but reckon I can put it up again here: You don't have to use the sliding/revolving rig ring, a plain straight knotless knot will work, but in the other thread I believe I give my explanation of why I use the revolving ring. Also the supple section can be any braid you prefer, and the boom I know a fair number of anglers prefer a fluorocarbon, but I'm old fashioned, and why change what works for me?

It is a method I use a lot, when stalking fish, and when I know that they visit the area. I often bait a few areas up, then fish a few minutes in each one before re-baiting and moving on around the lake. It produces a lot of good fish for me, tench and carp. I also enjoy teaming it up with a centre pin, there is nothing like the screech of the reel as you get a proper take after plenty of dips and glides of the float when the fish are brushing the line.

Nige, Have you tried this rig although using a plain standard ring instead of the swivel? I understand that a swivel will give a little bit more weight to balance the pop-up, but I think that a rig ring will still give correct movement along the D-rig section

I deleted my previous post on this thread as I felt I had to quantify some of my comments: I thought about it, I worked on it, and I came up with the same as I used however long ago I originally put this up, although I have changed the hook pattern. I use the same hook arrangement with a coated braid and a combi rig, although the only difference between the two is the choice of coated braid or combi: These rigs can be used for snowman, pop-up or bottom baits with little change. The hair length on a pop-up is shortened, in fact the bait is tied in a loop and then attached to the rig ring tight to the hook shank. I then use the knot on the combi-rig or the end of the stripped section to attach putty to for the pop-up height. With the snowman I put the bait in the loop and then tie the hair at the length I think is right, so that the bottom bait of the two will be on the hair. As for a plain bog standard bottom bait, the hair is tied on with a standard loop and then hair stop is used to hold it in place. The advantage of the rig ring is that I can change the hair length to suit my fishing, rather than break it all down to change it.

Plenty of theories for and against a pop-up in a PVA bag. The pop-up is the most noticeable piece of food, carp eats first, gets hooked. Alternate, the bottom bait is just hoovered up by carp as it eats patch of food. Both work, or both fail and don't do as well as you expect... Is this any use?

I seem to remember the word Dream Lakes coming into this thread somewhere, and Mainline do make their Dream Lakes Specials; Boilies that they 'recommend' for use on the lake. If that is the going bait, and plenty get put in, then I would likely have a hedge bet and take some of them with me Now I know that shoals of fish can really clear up a fair amount of bait, and so I would probably say 10k of that and at least the same or more of another bait I had confidence in. It would probably be fill it in to start with (dependant on advice), fish over it, then top up as I needed.

You may possibly find these useful: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=57582 http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=55800 The second link I gave you, I updated it last year, but I still use those style rigs, even though the pics I put up myself (my own rigs on there) and thread originally went up around 2008

Other link still working as it is Zander1's Chod rig 'Rant' in Past Hot Topics

Korda sliders?

Copied and pasted from http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=57613&sid=363dc90a90e20fa7fc103dc03e3f89ee I don't use one mate, I haven't really used boilies for the last couple of years I'm just saying with their track record you'll be safe with them. I'd use them any time if I were back on the boilies.

The ring swivels should in theory help prevent snap-offs, but from experience, they don't work as said on the tin If you slide a perfectly smooth piece of metal up and down a rope, the rope will start to fray, and eventually wear through, that is what I believe happens with ring swivels. Add to that if the ring swivel is in contact with the lakebed, and I reckon it happens a bit, then you may get a piece of grit or stone may take a tiny chunk out of the ring swivel. I use swivels a fair bit, and I have seen even braid will wear tiny nicks into the metalwork, if that happens on a ring swivel, another chance of a snap-off. The Cox and Rawle Beach Beads I refer to in the other threads, I have a link, however, no matter what Cox and Rawle say DO NOT glue them together, and put the bead with the large hole up the line nearest the rod tip. You can then put either a ring swivel or a standard swivel on the taper: http://www.coxandrawle.com/products/accessories/beach-beads

Don't know how I missed this first time around, must have been offline for a fair while and not using the forum or it was that horrible word Chod, so I purposely avoided it... There is a horrible possibility with the ring swivel on the mainline. No matter how you go, the naked chod is a risk in as much as the ring swivel under tension can wear and abrade the mainline, causing unexplained snap-offs While in this case it would only (or should) just leave a small rig and hook in the fish, it is a snap-off that should not happen You would be far better off to use what I suppose is a chod bead. Have a read through these: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=51296 http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=37603 The second link contains a pic of my 'Heath Robinson' looking Silt Rig set-up, which can be fished as sliding or semi-fixed

I'm really glad that the publicity ban on West Stow and Nunnery has been lifted. Both have been excellent fisheries, although I do know sadly a few fish have been ottered (I do NOT know about total losses if any). These lakes are definitely places worth a look

I must confess that while I appreciate tidiness in rigs I'm sure that mine don't always come out as the best looking. I have a habit of lighter tagging the end of braids at knots to stop them fraying as I think it looks tidier, but when it comes to knots on mono or braids I do prefer to use the Grinner/Uni knot as it is what I am comfortable with. I do make sure that I bed all my knots down carefully, and then give them a darn good pull to test them before casting out, and I very rarely have a break, unless I need it, when it will nearly always go at the knot. That need it, should a fish find the snag, or if I overcast into a tree etc, then I want the line to break at the knot, so that I am not leaving lengths of line hanging around (and I can then go and grab the rig out of a tree if possible). I also believe in keeping things as simple and possible. I think that as anglers we often overcomplicate the issue, cute fish, they can out-think this rig or get away with it so we go to adding too many pieces of metal around the hook that we really have no need for when all we need to change is the length of the hair we fish, and learn in some cases to fish and feed better to keep the fish interested in the area

Thread moved in UK Where to Fish section. I know that you have a rather large (oversubscribed) club near to you, but also nearby are a fair few waters that may well be day ticket as well as Thorpe Lea. Have a shout about at local tackle shops as they may well be able to give some very good advice.

I've said it before, and will probably say it again. The best and most simple rig a knotless knotted rig with a hook and hair on the end. It can be made of supple or stiff hooklink materials, braid, coated braid, mono, basically the works. It can then additionally be line aligned, shrunk tube with kicker or whatever you wish to call it... http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=55800

A while ago I came up with the idea of tying a hair to the tags of fire extinguishers tags, or even the little tag that often holds labels to clothing or other items, and using the pointed end to push into my bait, a stiff broom bristle could also work. It sounds really awkward to tie, but is actually easier than it sounds; Put your hooklink material through the eye of the hook, and then tie the material onto the tag end. You then have a stiff bit at the end. Then attach the hook with a knotless knot so you then have a stiff and supple hair that you can attach the bait to. I will try to come up with a pic, but I'm not sure when that will be as I will have to go back to old fashioned methods

Strangely enough I just brought a leader thread up to the top of the section as I don't believe in their use for much fishing: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=51792 If you do decide that you must use a leader or that a fluorocarbon leader will help (not necessarily true in my mind as mono can be made to 'disappear' underwater) However I do use the same knot for for combi rigs; joining Amnesia to braid or shockleader to main line and it is a Uni knot to overhand conection: Tie an Overhand knot in the Shockleader and then thread the braid through it, then do the Uni knot loops around the Leader, wet and pull tight.

To me fishing programmes can't be any better than John Wilson's Go Fishing, and Passion for Angling, although Jeremy Wades River Monsters does come close. Sadly I have not seen any of Martin Bolwers Catching The Impossible. I found Total Fishing a bit too techy and they would change subject too often, with some absolutely awful fillers, best cup of tea, best pork pie. The Greater Rod Race from Ireland to Lowestoft I did find quite interesting with Mick Brown and Matt Hayes, trying to get a decent weight to make that many miles. I did struggle in the last programme though as I know where they were supposed to be fishing rather well, and it did not look like the banks of Taverham that I know and fished a lot, so that may have meant that a few other places could have been 'fudged'