salokcinnodrog

If you want them dead freeze them for a couple of days. If you do it simply overnight they will come back to life. Maggots can't be kept too long before they go off, a week maybe two is the maximum, and they need care and attention to keep the best out of them. You will need to riddle them, to remove casters and dead skins, and stop them sweating, so keep a bit of sawdust in them, and replace it after riddling. You also need to keep them in the fridge or a cold atmosphere in a container with air holes. If you have a 2pint maggot tub, do NOT keep more than a pint and a half of maggots in it. You may also want to know how fresh they are before you try to keep them; if the thin end has a large black spot then they are fresh, as the spot shrinks they are getting older, so give you so idea if you need to freeze them.

After a few more years abuse, the plastic o-rings on the valve of my Webtex Warrior eventually perished, and a quick whip round with a short length of PTFE tape was only going to be a temporary solution, so I raided the TFH stuff from work. The new toy is a TFG Thermolite stove, again a Gas job, with piezo ignition. The hose going under and along the base actually pre-warms the gas into the burner, so it does get a very good heat. It packs away tidily into its own flat bag. Time to set up is just screw the canister onto the hose, open legs and done.

Those 'horrible plastic Shark tooth' things? It took me 10 years to break one of those on my Aerlex reels. It is probably only the past 5 years that they have had metal clips, and compared to the circular metal clip on my Baitrunner Shimmy's I much prefer the plastic thing. The line sits behind it better and does not unclip with those plastic ones. As mentioned, they weren't actually designed as a casting clip, but instead as a a line clip to prevent the line free spooling while not on the rod. I wonder if Shimano and Daiwa are different in strength and materials? I think Tacklebox may do spare spool parts as well, but not 100% sure

I wish! Plus mentioning other shops means I am not advertising unfairly Oh, and there is part of the Angling Direct dynasty at Beccles

Suffolk? Off the top of my head, a few for you: Gladwells at Copdock Birds at Blakenham Markham's on Woodbridge Road Breakaway Tackle on Bramford Road Stuart's Clay traps, Melton Tackle Up, Bury St. Edmunds Sax Angling, Back of market Saxmundham. Of course I would recommend Gladwells, I work there, but I would say we have some of the best selection of rods, and nicest service going. Birds may be the biggest tackle shop with most brands, but... For obvious reasons I haven't been in another tackle shop for over a year, so I wouldn't say what stocks are like.

Spong 301 £3

I would hum and hah over a new set of Century rods, and then probably say what the heck and stick with The Ones. I buy my gear as to what is suitable and what I need already pretty much

Shimano Beastmaster XTA 7000 Big Pit with a Baitrunner free spool system. 15lb Gardner Pro Light, no leader 130metres I think, I have not measured it for some time, and have not yet pushed it with my new rods, I am estimating, so could be well out, although I don't think I am overestimating 60 acres 12feet rod.

I work in a tackle shop and I would disagree Please don't ask me to put down in public what I think though I can think of better rods to spend your money on, try the Fox Warriors, Rod Hutchinson The Ones.

Hoggs of Fife: Strathmoor Shooting Trousers and Strathmore Jacket

Sometimes I need a further angle to keep my lines direct, or fanned out.

. I use my alarms on buzzer bars or separately, and I also like to choose the volume on the alarm, or not. Next thing, if one alarm fails I can send it off for repair or replace, I think I may struggle doing the same with that full buzz bar system. The next issue, on my buzzer bars, I can change the width of the buzzer bars to suit the angles or reel width. I can also remove my buzzers from the buzz bar when I pack up, and put away safely away from by buzz bar bag so they don't get broken or damaged in the pod bag.

Pretty much the only place I fish a pop-up is over dead leaves, and I won't add a stringer that may drag it down into the leaf muck, although a PVA bag with added foam or even dog biscuits mixed in with the chops and pellets. I want my pop-up to be above the leaves, but not so high that it is mid depth or a zig rig, about 5cms ish I guess is my usual. I do test my pop-ups so that I can see how it sits on the lakebed.

Don't get me wrong, I have used sticks, and still occasionally do so, especially in tight swims with no bank access, but it is very rare. My point is this, as. Yonny has pointed out, sticks are not worth £60 odd. I always carry a spare set of bank-sticks, so I can use them if required. I can still cast at, and gauge how far past, a marker float. It is actually rare for me to clip up even when aiming for a marker, although islands I nearly always do clip and mark. Marking the line is easy, so I know I am in the same spot When I walk along the bank, I keep the line off damaging ground. Overhanging branch, or gatepost I can clip my lead around, I then walk my line out with the rod, so the line does not touch the ground at all. If it is a grass bank, I will walk the line out leaving the rod, bail arm open, taking the lead and bait out, then retrieving.

How about you simply mark your line when you get it right first time? Then knowing where the line marker is you cast out to another area, and clip up again, then retrieve and cast to your spot? You avoid line twist that is created by winding round sticks, and you also get your rod out to the spot faster, even though you have cast, retrieved and recast, compared to putting round a set of overpriced banksticks, then lifting and untwisting from them as you reel in. Seriously for years I have got to my features without banksticks, by various means; walking them out, clipping up and creeping up on emergent features, or by allowing line out before reeling in and then clipping up, hitting a marker float etc

Let's see, arrived at Earith at 12ish, at night, in the dark, walked line along bank to distance of island feature, cast to edge of island, caught fish within 10minutes. Walked line along bank, had another fish just before first light.

Them and rats chewed through it while fishing

Sadly you can't sew over repaired holes that have already been fixed and chewed again

I allow for it Easy enough when you keep your rods back and tips not overhanging the waters edge, as I stand close to the edge when casting. I also have a line marker on the line, so it is easy enough to be sure where I am in relation with the rods on the rests.

Some figures for you, I measured it at work today Width 650cm Length 190cm Basically if you are under 6feet tall it will be long enough, although if you are quite broad chested it may be a big tight widthways. I think you would be able to keep your sleeping bag wrapped or folded inside when you pack away.

Yes, yes, and yes! Don't know how long I've had mine, but it is honestly worth the money. The only thing I have had to do is put a new mesh on mine as it got battered and torn after catching on brambles and mice. Spomb, do not get the Fox one!

I tend to reel in every day to check my bait, I need to check I still have some on the hair, so I reel in all three rods at the same time. After getting the distance right in the first place, and clipped up and cast, I mark the line, power gum or insulting tape I check where the line marker is on the rod in relation to rings, buzzer etc. When I retrieve at the next reel in time, it is no problem to actually put line in the clip before reeling in. I then have no need for distance sticks.

No problem Reel your rods in, walk your rods out, both or all three, clip up, then cast them in turn. No leaving rods unattended

One of my spots in Nazeing just happens to correspond with the distance from an overhanging tree branch which I attach the lead to, to the second swim along the bank and footpath. Only 63metres, but try working out 63m in wraps I have actually seen somebody put their distance sticks on the bank in this swim, and a cyclist fell over them as he avoided a car and a dog and dog walker coming into the car park through the gates. There are some swims that you can't walk the line out, you are 'stuck' in a dug out, but it's still easy to mark the line with power gum or insulation tape after casting to a marker. I have often said I don't think that a quick check with a marker puts the carp off. The number of fish I have caught by being sure I am in the zone, and retrieving the marker after aiming at it. In fact I have had numerous fish within minutes on various waters, from Weybread, Taverham, Brackens and Earith.

Gardner Pro in 15lb with a shockleader, been using the Sufix Sea leader recently