salokcinnodrog
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Posts posted by salokcinnodrog
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6 hours ago, S34MH1 said:
I use a bait boat to locate my swim and save the position as Spot A. I set up my rod pod with the three-point alignment method: rod pod, bait boat and a marker on the opposite bank. I put the largest quantity of bait at Spot A, and place one rod on each side of the rod pod with only a small amount of supplementary bait. What is the reasonable range for this whole setup? Are there any improvements I can make to my current baiting method?
My bait boat has significant GPS error, and waves also stop it from staying in a fixed position. Should I use line stops to precisely control the line length from my reel? I’ve noticed some anglers use rangefinders and laser pointers to get accurate distance and angle for the bait boat. Is it necessary for me to buy these tools?
Hmm!
Your eyes and ears are your biggest advantage.
My fishing for years was fishing waters big reservoirs and lakes, for a maximum of 48hours. I'd get home from work, frequently at 11pm at night, load up my gear and go fishing, arriving at the water between midnight and 1am. The picture is just 30acres of a 75acre water I fished for 10years.
Even arriving that late I would often sit listening before deciding where to set up. To start with, the only baiting I would do is with PVA stringers or PVA bag of pellets, no other free bait. I don't use a bait boat, everything is by hand, throwing stick or spodding bait in. In fact I put most of my bait in either as I left, or on specific baiting sessions where I was prebaiting for later trips.
Getting your lines the right distance is easy with distance sticks or walking it out.
I don't worry about water temperature, if it is not iced over it is possible to catch.
Fish will be where they want to be, they may follow wind lanes, move from weedbed to weedbed to natural food.
As much as you ask, there really is no substitute for being on the water, while carp as a species tend to behave the same, every water is different and they have their own rules.
Fish can follow a new wind, especially in summer if it is warm, but not so much in winter. As the wind grows stale they will move back off it.
Don't immediately think that long range is the answer, many fish get caught from the margins. It is easier to see them, easier to bait for them, and easier to cast at them (quietly).
Does your big baiting attract nuisance species? There is no point in piling bait in if other species eat everything before the carp find it. It is easier to cast in a PVA bag of bait and your hookbait, than stand spodding for 1hour if it is going to get pinched by something else.
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It's so long since I bought them I don't think that the 1oz version is still in the range.
The only reason I used them at all was when I fished in the sailing club swims at Nazeing Meads on the Central Lagoon if boats were in use, which is over 7years ago.
It was solely to take the line below boats hulls.
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On 10/06/2026 at 14:11, S34MH1 said:
I’ve noticed back leads come in a wide range of weights. How do I pick the right one for different fishing scenarios?
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Also, I once came across a type of back lead on YouTube. I remember it’s designed to flip over upon entering the water, and it automatically releases from the line when a fish is hooked or when you lift the rod. I thought it was really well-engineered. The only thing I recall is that it has a bit of green on it. Does anyone remember the model number? I just can’t find it anymore.
7 hours ago, yonny said:There are no hard/fast rules but generally you'd go heavier for longer distance work and lighter for close-in stuff.
I personally am not a fan of back leads. They reduce sensitivity and if there's any weed or debris around they can cause big problems. I remember watching a lad having to land a fish in a boat a few years ago.... his back lead had snagged in the weed. Once released, the rig/fish was also weeded up. It was like a spiders web of line around his swim, looked like a nightmare. He lost the fish.
If I had to use one, I'd use a flying back lead. The important thing is getting that last few feet pinned down.
Like @yonny I do not like using backleads, for the reasons he states.
If you add a backlead, you add an extra angle, and angles reduce indication.
I will only use them if there are boats on the water I'm fishing, where I need to get the line below the boat hulls or engine.
When I do need to use them, it is the Gardner Tackle Captive Back lead for me.
The majority of the time I can get the line running along the lakebed by sinking my rod tips below the surface. That is on reservoirs and lakes.
Add in any distance above 40metres and the line runs along the lakebed anyway, unless there are features like gravel bars between your rod tips and the end tackle.
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7 hours ago, ianfrog said:
Anyone know of anywhere that can supply these as putting isotopes in the supplied heads doesn`t appeal, have you seen the price of isotopes these days !!!!
About £15 a pop, and Korda 3x 25mm were the cheapest for my Solar heads. I had to buy 3 to fit my old Solar indicators after I broke an IPRO head. Perfect world I now want some clear shrink tube to go over them...
7 hours ago, ianfrog said:As a result I am trying to find an adaptor that is 5mm thread female down to a 2BA male (3 of).
Custom Reel King or Matrix might be worthwhile.
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The new Bulin T4 is in use.
I think that I paid £20 for the original when I was fishing on Alton Water, so that makes it at least 5years ago. Not a bad life for it to wear away with plenty of use. The new one despite shopping around did cost £31 though.
Despite having the piezo ignition, the carbon builds up on the burner so it eventually stops sparking, or the button sticks, so I always have a lighter.
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7 hours ago, S34MH1 said:
don't know if I'm missing something crucial or if I've lost sight of what truly matters. Whenever I feel this confusion, I always default to fixating on my tackle: should I buy a dissolved oxygen meter? A device to analyze the bottom substrate composition? A thermometer that reads water temperature at different depths? Or perhaps invest in better groundbait and hookbaits? But I suspect that's not how a truly skilled angler thinks. So how do I become a real master angler?
3 hours ago, S34MH1 said:I have polarized sunglasses and binoculars. I’ve never tried observing from a tree, but thanks for bringing that up; it’s helped me see just how important this is.
6 hours ago, yonny said:Your eyes....... they're the most important piece of tackle you have.
Pressure, depths, temps etc etc are all good starting points but I'll not fish until I see a carp to fish for. You cannot catch what is not in front of you.
As @yonny says, your eyes are the most important tackle item you have, although I do sometimes set up without seeing fish, on a 'hunch', in a swim I have been baiting or down to what I expect from the weather forecast.
Although I do sometimes get it wrong that hunch often pays off. It may be that without realising it I have noticed some sort of indication that there are fish in the area. You may walk around and see obvious signs, coloured water, bubbles, fins breaking the surface, even rolling and jumping, they are obvious reasons to set up in an area.
When I am in my swim, my binoculars are always close to hand, but I also put store on hearing fish. At night I spend plenty of time just listening to the lake while I read a book, you can hear fish crashing, which can give you the need to move or recast towards them.
I don't own any of the technical equipment you mention. My bottom substrate composition finder is a marker float and lead. The lead on the marker rod, cast out and retrieved slowly tells me the lake bed, if it is weedy, silty, gravel, sand or clay.
Each feels different. Cast the marker float and lead out. If the lead goes into silt it will plug, and need a fair pull to move, it then glides back but feeling 'sticky'. Hit a gravel patch it's like wheels going over a cobbled road, sand and clay is like a smooth road. Cast into clay, the lead may stick, but then pull and glide easily. Look at the lead when you have reeled in, clay and silt will often stick to the lead, weed will be caught up around it. Hit weed with a cast and it can stick, reel in, it feels like it is pulling back.
Any of those spots you can normally find the depth by letting the float up to the surface, although weed is difficult.
Do I think about bait?
Yes and no! Sounds silly, but! If I am fishing over particles I don't normally want a big boilie, I want a bait the same sort of size as the particles, so maybe a 8-12mm boilie. If I'm fishing boilies I use the same boilie as my free baits. I know my boilies are acceptable, I know that the fish eat them. What works on one lake will normally work on another.
To be honest, the main reason I change what boilies I use is down to baits becoming unavailable or occasionally just because it doesn't seem to be working.
Originally when I joined Brackens Pool I was using Smokey Mackeral, and it worked. The company I was testing for gave me a new bait, I just could not get it to catch, so I I had to change. That new bait did work on other waters and was released, it just didn't work on Brackens.
I was using KMG on Nazeing Meads and Alton Water and I loved it, it was catching me fish from both, and on Nazeing, possibly the garlic element was reducing crayfish interest (not sure, don't know, but I had less problems than with other fishmeal boilies), I took it to Botesdale, and started catching on it, then the bait company stopped making it. Again, I could not get confident in the new bait, hence a change to Shrimp, which I have caught on within 3 trips on a very temperamental water.
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12 hours ago, S34MH1 said:
Yeah, that’s exactly where my anxiety stems from. I’m not from Europe, so I’ve been learning carp fishing online. Countless articles keep stressing how wary carp are, covering line diameter, line colour, sinker concealment and whether hook coatings reflect light. It’s left me pretty anxious and unable to tell what matters most, haha.
For years, around 1995 to 2008 ish I used Daiwa Sensor in brown, on various lakes and reservoirs. From 2008 or 2009 I started using Gardner Pro, normally light as the waters I fish are normally clear. I mentioned above about leaders if I was casting long distances, Drennan Greased Weasel in grey, Amnesia in clear or black has never been an issue.
13 hours ago, yonny said:The thicker it is the easier it is to see. I've watched carp spooking off lines numerous times.
I've watched carp spooking around lines, and it's usually tight lines. I've also seen them spook off fluorocarbon mainlines, whether it was the shadow on the lakebed or possibly the vibration (?) I don't know.
Unless your rod tips are mega high, and fishing super tight line, at anything above 40metres the line near the end tackle is likely to be on the lakebed, unless you have 'raised' features like gravel bars to hold it up.
I've not been one for 'fish protection' * as with monofilament or copolymer lines, I think the line rarely damages the fish. Braided mainline/leaders and leadcore however I do think can cause cuts, grazes and scarring if they rub.
I occasionally fish with tubing, but it is a rarity, and it is for the real name, anti-tangle tubing, to prevent braided hooklinks tangling around the mainline.
I normally fish with my rod tips as low as possible, often underwater, to keep the line down, and if I can with running leads and slack lines.
*Fish protection, that doesn't mean I don't think they deserve protection, but just that the line is not at fault.
We normally fish rig rigs or floater fishing with naked mainline, and hook carp on tench gear, or accidentally while float fishing or ledgering for other species.
Camouflaging weights, (sinkers), is it necessary? On my current water the lead in many swims is in the silt. Just dropping a lead in the margins, it is a job to find it. I have lost a few that I have seen fall off the link clip, the run ring fell after a pike bite-off, or where I dropped the blooming thing. I do paint and coat my leads, with a hard varnish, but I think its more a confidence thing camouflaging than a requirement.
The fish I had this week and subsequent casts, I had to pull the lead free from the silt!
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2 hours ago, S34MH1 said:
What pound test fishing line do you use? Do you think the diameter of fishing line affects your catch?
What are you fishing for?
How big do the fish go?
Is the lake snagged, weedy or clear?
I fish waters where the carp go to over 40lb, my normal line is 15lb, 0.35mm. I need that line to cope with weed and algae, occasionally long casting as well as playing the fish.
If I go to an 'easier' water with carp to just maybe 20lb and few or no snags then I will use 10lb 0.30mm line.
Does diameter make a difference? On a water I used to fish my shockleader was Drennan Greased Weasel in 40lb with a diameter of 0.58mm, or 30lb Amnesia which I have no idea of the diameter.
I caught with that diameter line as I do now.
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1 hour ago, Asterman said:
Hi
Quote
Any ingredient in a boilie is denatured, or liquids evaporate as they are boiled, less so if they are steamed.
That is really interesting when you consider the hottest byproduct of boiling water is steam itself...If added to boiling water it will take longer for that to come back to steam temps and also far longer to reach the centre of say an 18mm boilie where it rarely gets higher than 60 degrees up to a 2 minute boil. Less so if steamed?
However, i do like to learn. Feel free to explain.
Steaming baits are not done in the water itself.
The boiling water is below the bait, (food) so strictly speaking the term boilies is a misnomer, they are now 'steamies', which has been used by bait companies.
You are using the steam to cook the baits rather than the water itself.
A pan of water, a grid above it, and a lid keeps the steam circulating around the items being cooked.
Because the steam is essentially just cooking the outside of the items, the middle does not get heat damaged (denatured) to the same extent as boiling. It also means flavours and liquids do not get washed out like they do when boiled.
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On 26/05/2026 at 23:43, Jack Acres said:
hey everyone,
i’ve been in east sussex, near hailsham, for a couple of years now, and i’ve done many a session on hawkhurst, isfield club and a few other day tickets but none of them (other than hawkhurst) really tick my box for carp. Is anyone able to point me in the right direction of a decent sydnicate within a reasonable distance. Any replies or PM’s are much appreciated,
Cheers, Jack.
Welcome to Carp.com
I don't know if it is any use, but https://spsfishing.co.uk/coarse-section-info/
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On 27/05/2026 at 10:44, OldBoy said:
Never tried that, so long ago I can't remember if the underside of top skin was actually reflective or not 😀
Do have a couple of pics from way back with the Hutchie dome covered in snow tho! Last week of the then close season, bright sun in morning then woke up to snow!
Deff wouldn't like to be bivvied up in this weather atm tho! 🥵
I know that a few people on Taverham Mills put it on 'upside down' to try to keep the sun from making the bivvy too hot. I never knew if it actually worked or not.
I've had heatstroke a couple of times, even just under a plain brolly when fishing a couple of days. I can guarantee it is not fun, the headache and occasionally being physically sick really knocks you out. I've gotten to making sure that I have some shade to put the bivvy up in or able to sit in if at all possible if the forecast is for hot and dry. Not forgetting plenty of water to drink!
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17lb. Despite the grimace, it made me smile, and laugh.
I'd only just cast the rod in after getting back with Sky after a walk round the lake when it went off, I was sorting out the next rod, mid PVA bag making. Bait was in the water 2minutes, not sure the PVA on the first rod had even dissolved.
First fish on the Shrimp!
- kevtaylor, yonny, elmoputney and 4 others
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On 25/05/2026 at 13:26, crusian said:
Hello Newmarket .
I was sad that West Ham got relegated ( would have been much happier if it had been Chelsea ) , but you'll now have all those " friendly " local derbies against Millwall to look forward to .
😁
On 26/05/2026 at 07:00, yonny said:I would have preferred to see Spurs go down but WHU will have to do😅
To see my beloved Sunderland go to Europe for the first time in my life (and I'm 47 years old tomorrow!) is absolutely mind-blowing. Still can't quite believe it.
Chelsea going down would have been my ideal as well.
Sunderland in Europe, that quite a thought, and not being funny, Europa League is a 'better' competition than Champions League. The teams for Champions League are almost nailed in at the start of the season, whereas Europa League can be anyone.
Mind you I do wish that we could also go back to European Cup Winners Cup as well, but UEFA and FIFA make too much out of CL.
8 hours ago, elmoputney said:Well done to Sunderland, Could you imagine how smug arsenal fans would be if that happened though. No one wants that, they are already smug enough.I'm quite happy West Ham went down instead of spurs though 😂
I've not been watching much kickyball lately, I'm all about womens rugby these days, went to Twickenham to watch the Red Roses the other week. They make footballers look like a bunch of Daily Express reading Karen's. 😱
Rugby altogether I love, although it has gotten a bit silly on head to head and targeting, especially in the mens game, and that's players who are going in too high and not wrapping up rather than referee being picky.
The Red Roses have definitely brought the game to life for everyone. Women's games sold out, and in some big stadiums.
Mind you, I do miss Abby Dow, not as spectacular as Ellie Kildunne, but could she motor.
- crusian and elmoputney
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On 24/05/2026 at 08:45, newmarket said:
Morning Gents . I’m a moderator on a football fans forum and I’ve had exactly this problem .
we have set in place a system where all new applicant members have to have their details ratified by a Mod and then have their application activated .
The majority of new applications come from Eastern European spammers so their IP addresses give the game away straight away .
Those that are not so obvious get sent a related question by email to answer .
you’d be surprised how many Romanians think Bobby Charlton used to play for West Ham 🤣.
It means I have spend an evening once a month cleaning up the Spammer new account applications but it’s better than spending your whole life deleting and banning , which is what was happening before .
Genuine applications usually make themselves heard on the forum pretty much straight away and the obvious spammers can usually be spotted by their ridiculously Eastern European usernames .
I set the membership to include a non bot verification. Unfortunately I don't necessarily see new members joining if they go in bulk.
I've added loads of Eastern European email and IP addresses and suppliers to the ban filter, but Asian and Indian are as bad.
The joy of VPN's is a problem as well, and I think that settings currently restrict access from them.
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10 hours ago, welder said:
Thanks for that, Nick. Maybe I'm not quite as daft as I thought.
Ian.
I wonder if it was originally 'no particles'?
A change since then and we might have an explanation.
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2 hours ago, welder said:
It wasn't on the three occasions I've fished there and I can't find any reference to it on their website. Perhaps I missed that bit?
Ian.
I had a look, can't see it on there and screenshot the rules to double check:
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17 hours ago, framey said:
After moving from a brolly
I purchased a Shakespeare cypry dome
(oooh ark at me dead cool….🤣🤣🤣😵💫)
Penge angling post dated cheque spread lol
I never had a Cypry Dome myself, Bruce had one which we shared a couple of times in the winter on the Meadow swims at Taverham.
I did get the Rod Hutchinson Apotheosis, the one after his first dome, when I fished at Earith, very comfy, even in winter, although it did end up smelling of damp. I'd pack up in damp cold weather and not get the chance to dry it until the next session.
I always wished that I had gotten a Yateley and Horseshoe ticket, but money and travel was always restrictive until around 2000 when I got my Hotel and Catering Manager HND.
I've moved this back to UK Carp Fishing as although it is 'venue based' and referring to Horseshoe I think is history and worthy of general conversation.
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1 hour ago, newmarket said:
I think I’ve kinda grown DOWN over the years 🤣
You seemed very grown up when I came down to meet you, or was that because your lovely wife was keeping an eye on you?
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On 22/05/2026 at 12:29, OldBoy said:
That explains it mate, btw I did notice the brolly with 'storm sides' fitted?
I used to have a WaveLoc brolly with an overwrap fitted back in the day, then moved onto a Hutchie bivvie dome... luxury at the time 😂
I used to love my Wavelock with the Fox Jekh Shelter overwrap.
I think that I went mark 1 Fox EasyDome next.
That is a Taverham Mills swim, and Delkim ST's and Fox Swingers as well.
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6 hours ago, OldBoy said:
Leaving aside the obvious faffing around making this stuff.
It might be me not understanding, but what would you actually use these liquids in?
If added to a boilie base mix, wouldn't the boiling process actually kill any 'benefical effects?
I get adding to a groundbait might work, as for a spod mix, wouldn't any effect just vanish in the volume of water in any lakes..... guessing a lot of this 'science' might have been tank tested?
And here you have raised very pertinent additional points.
Any ingredient in a boilie is denatured, or liquids evaporate as they are boiled, less so if they are steamed.
By denature, the food value is reduced, the protein level is lowered, and enzymes 'killed', even vitamins and minerals are reduced, especially those on the outside skin of the boilie. The inside of the bait may still not be 'cooked' on short boiling times*, as the full temperature takes time to get to the middle. So the only part of the boilie that still contains fully effective or as you nicely describe it, beneficial effects is the middle.
The best way to get these liquids to continue working effectively is to soak or glug the baits after boiling.
You can add these liquids to your spod mix, your particles, your powdered groundbait, your pellets.
I don't know if anyone remembers the days of the CarpWorld/Nutrabaits Lac Fishabil trips, but Bill Cottams favourite mix I think was a bucket of birdfood, boilies crushed and whole with added Nutramino, Multimino PPc and condensed milk.
This is where you have different effects in water, the solubility of the liquid, how it mixes in the lake. Some liquids will spread out across the lakebed, others will cloud lakebed to surface.
The 'hope' is that the carp will follow the reverse track of the water current if any down to the source, and it creates a spot to investigate.
*My aim when making my own bait was to have a solid skin, but a paste middle.
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13 hours ago, BBQ King said:
Not only is the effect the same, the products you mentioned are more or less hydrolysates.
Yeast extract is typically produced through autolysis/hydrolysis of yeast cells.
CSL contains degraded proteins from the steeping process.
Products like Minamino/Nutramino derived much of their effectiveness from predigested soluble protein fractions, meaning proteins have already been broken down into peptides and amino acids, which is essentially what a hydrolysate is.So yes, those products worked long before “hydrolysate” became a fashionable buzzword — and they still contained hydrolysed material chemically speaking.
That is still completely different from saying “adding water creates a hydrolysate” or that oat milk is automatically one. Hydration and hydrolysis are not the same thing. Hydrolysis specifically means actual cleavage of chemical bonds, particularly peptide bonds in proteins.
"Not only is the effect the same, the products you mentioned are more or less hydrolysates"
Oh dear, you really need to be right if you do want to try to make a point.
If you really want to get in an argument I will wear you down with facts, and be correct with my facts, which sadly yours are not.
I can get my data from the original research I did years ago, quite frequently back in the early 2000's when I was working with bait manufacturers. (Some of the references and sources are listed)
The oat milk research was when I was working in the catering industry as we had to do full allergen test and have full data sheet to hand. Also standard oat milk will not produce a cappuccino with much 'body', you won't get ⅓coffee, ⅓milk and ⅓froth, you'll get a milky coffee, almost identical to a latte.
So far I have shown many of your arguments as incorrect, and instead of 'cherry picking' and missing words out like you. (You were close on Nutramino)
13 hours ago, BBQ King said:adding water creates a hydrolysate”
You missed a bit:
Hydrolysates are simply formed by adding water, adding an enzyme, or acid to create a smaller particle.
I do mention adding an enzyme or acid, which you ignored.
Yes, commercially produced oat milk is a carbohydrate hydrolysate. (https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC10534225/)
During manufacturing, oat flour and water are combined and treated with natural food-grade enzymes (like amylases). This enzymatic hydrolysis process breaks down the oats' dense, gritty starches into smaller, sweeter, and highly soluble simple sugars (like maltose and glucose)
This controlled hydrolysis serves three critical purposes:- Texture & Creaminess: It prevents the oat starch from turning into a thick, gummy paste and ensures a smooth, milky liquid.
- Natural Sweetness: It breaks down starches to naturally sweeten the beverage without requiring the addition of processed sugars.
- Ingredient Labelling: Because the starches are broken down intentionally to sweeten and smooth the drink, labels will often list "hydrolyzed oats" in the ingredients.
Multimino is a form of pre-digested liquid food. However, instead of being a traditional animal-protein hydrolysate, it functions as an amino-acid-rich syrup based on Phosphorylcolamine (PPC) and natural extracts.- How it works: Because the protein chains are already broken down, this highly water-soluble syrup is considered "pre-digested," making it extremely easy for fish to digest and absorb.
- Ingredients: It is traditionally a blend of PPC, predigested liver extracts, spleen extract, fruit extracts, and natural sweeteners.
- Difference from Hydrolysates: While pure hydrolysates (like Salmon Hydrolysate) are the direct breakdown products of whole animal flesh, Multimino is a specialized medical-grade nutrient supplement that provides a similar profile of free-form amino acids.
Nutrabaits Nutramino is essentially a human-food-grade pre-digested liquid food. While Nutrabaits sometimes uses the term "pre-digested," the process of breaking down complex proteins (like liver, spleen, and gastric mucosa) into highly absorbable, free-form amino acids is exactly what enzymatic hydrolysis entails.Because it mimics a pre-hydrolyzed or pre-broken-down protein source, it gives carp an irresistible and instantly digestible amino-acid profile.Standard corn steep liquor (CSL) is not naturally classified as a hydrolysate. It is instead the raw, concentrated liquid byproduct of the wet-milling process, generated by soaking corn kernels in water and sulfur dioxide.
Liquid Yeast is an interesting one, it is actually the soluble liquid left behind after the hydrolysate has been removed.
This is used as a flavor enhancer (like Marmite or Vegemite) or as a nutrient for cell cultures.
Active Liquid Yeast: This refers to intact, living yeast cells used in baking or brewing. This is not a hydrolysate.
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1 hour ago, BBQ King said:
In a simplified angling conversation you could say “more digestible or usable protein”, but technically that is a shorthand, not the definition.
The human sports nutrition comparison also does not really settle the bait question. For humans, normal dietary protein may be digested perfectly well, and hydrolysed protein supplements may often be overpriced. I don’t disagree with that.
But in baitmaking, the point is usually not digestion after eating a meal. The point is solubility, leakage, free amino acids, small peptides, smell, taste signals and how quickly compounds become available in water. That is why a fish/liver hydrolysate, liquid liver, CSL or fish sauce-type product is not the same thing as simply boiling hemp or saying “protein is digestible”.
So I’m not saying every product called hydrolysate is magical, or good value, or even good bait. I’m only saying the word has a real technical meaning. It refers to controlled breakdown, not just “more digestible protein”.
You are missing the point, it does not need hydrolysates to have a 'controlled breakdown', to enable protein to be more easily digested, or solubility and leakage. Absolutely everything you have put down about free amino acids and peptides does not require hydrolysates.
That was accomplished for years with Multimino, Nutramino, Minamino and various other brand names, Corn Steep Liquor and Liquid Yeast or other ingredients. Soaking and glugging baits after boiling in them did exactly the same thing. They could also be mixed in with the base mix.
The effects are the same.
Hydrolysates are simply formed by adding water, adding an enzyme, or acid to create a smaller particle. A basic hydrolysate is oat milk!
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2 hours ago, Paul S said:
None of my own baits use any preservative, natural or synthetic, including hookbaits even though (and before someone points out) they are not consumed..
Bet you they do😉
If you put a flavour in a bait, it has the base solvent, which is in many cases a preservative. If you put in a powdered ingredient, it likely contains either an anti-caking agent, or an ingredient to slow down or prevent it going rancid, they are preservatives.
Even basic sugar and salt are forms of preservative.
4 hours ago, BBQ King said:hydrolysate” is not just a posh word for digestible protein. It usually means a material where proteins or other polymers have actually been broken down by hydrolysis.
Actually it is, to quote myself "Hydrolysate is a posh way of saying more digestible or usable protein".
If you copy my statement above, go to Google and then type in 'is' followed by pasting my wording above you will get the answer "Yes, basically it is", and then a scientific process review.
I would not have said it without knowing what I was saying, and buzzwords get put into baitmaking just like in convincing humans that isotonic, hydrolysates, are better for you than a standard diet.
However, for the average person, regular protein is digested and used just fine. Hydrolysates often come with a much higher price tag, so you are mostly paying for the speed of absorption rather than a magical increase in overall nutritional quality.
Then you have potential side effects of hydrolysates, poor palatibility, bloating, gas, diarrhoea or constipation and funnily enough, many contain preservatives, sugar alcohols, thickening ingredients and artificial sweeteners.
How to bait up effectively?
in UK Carp Fishing
Posted
Chill down all!
I'm one of the traditionalists.
I don't do bait boats, I don't do GPS or echo sounders, and I tend to rely on my own skill (or lack of) and watercraft. Saying that, I don't fish big foreign waters where they are required, although you could argue that Alton Water and Ardleigh reservoir may qualify at well over 400 and 150acres respectively. Even on them I stayed traditional.
Come to that, say on Cassien, I don't think that fish caught using GPS and sonar are any or much bigger than fish caught in the 1980-2000's before they were a regularity.
I do do wading out, looking for feeding spots, watching the water, listening for fish. I bait up with throwing stick, by hand or by spod/Spomb.
I use bankside markers as aiming features for casting at, and if I can't cast there I don't fish there.
Sometimes I get it right, sometimes I get it wrong.
This 'next level' thing seems to have come from other sports into fishing, and to be honest, it winds me up. You fish or you don't fish, fishing should be relaxation and escape from the rubbish that the world throws at you, not the 'be all and end all', yet I believe to pinch Bill Shankly's (?) words fishing is not a matter of life and death, it's more important than that. There seems to be from the days of paper magazines to now, a cadre of 'fish chasers', bounty hunters for the biggest fish in a lake. I suppose it started with Heather, Basil, Jumbo and the like from Yateley where anglers fished specifically for the named fish.
I want to fish to enjoy myself, chasing targets can stop that enjoyment, and I have to remind myself that every now and again; @yonny will know exactly what I mean as we had a message conversation about a big common that I was chasing. Fishing exclusively for that I 'forgot' to think about other areas of the lake, staying in 2 or 3 swims.
Continually blanking can limit your enjoyment, if that happens, take time out, go to an easier water for a trip or two. I could be fishing at the syndicate now, but I reckon a week off, go sea fishing for an evening, and maybe find a quiet swim for the start of the river season and hopefully catch a chub.
Another issue can be 'gremlins', or things that just seem to wind you up or go wrong. I had many years of easy fishing, where I caught plenty of fish, I didn't break a rod, I didn't have swans and ducks taking the baits, yet at the moment those issues are a'plenty.
I don't know how to beat the gremlins, maybe an exorcism?
Take fishing for what it is, but learn from every trip.