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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/02/21 in all areas
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2 points
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Diawa floorit fluoro mainlines
elmoputney reacted to salokcinnodrog for a topic
Yes it does sink well. Stretch is around 10%, roughly half of what mono is. One thing, if there is algae in the water, as with any line, it does bring it to the surface. I do like it and use it when I can get hold of it.1 point -
Diawa floorit fluoro mainlines
elmoputney reacted to emmcee for a topic
I've used the daiwa floorit. It's still on the spools on my 3lb Tc rods. I found it a good line. Sinks and casts ok for a fluro. I had it on all my spools, only changing to gardener gt/hd when I got on my current lake as I wanted a line that would cast but also sink in time. On a side note, I've never had so much line frap or line twist since going over to the gt/hd. Definitely be changing that before I go again. Oh, I've got a couple of spools with the fox flurocarbon on them, it's pretty good. Sinks like a stone but not good for casting (if you want to hit 100yds I mean).1 point -
Diawa floorit fluoro mainlines
elmoputney reacted to salokcinnodrog for a topic
I know a few people rate Tiger line, I think Johnson Ross sell it in 1000 and 250 metre spools. I have used P Line Floroclear in 15lb, a fluoro coated copolymer, that is good stuff. I have to have a good search on ebay and buy a few spools at a time as it is imported, often from Poland or USA. (There is currently one spool on the bay in UK and carriage on the Polish is around £9.90). P Line do do Tactical Fluorocarbon, but I have not heard on seen reviews.1 point -
Diawa floorit fluoro mainlines
elmoputney reacted to framey for a topic
Easier to replace as a 1 shot spool when needed though back it out with cheap line first..1 point -
Diawa floorit fluoro mainlines
elmoputney reacted to Golden Paws for a topic
I did look at Kontour but it only comes in 200 metre spools and only in 12 lb BS.1 point -
Diawa floorit fluoro mainlines
elmoputney reacted to Carpbell_ll for a topic
I use the 16lb which seems way too fine when you first get hold of it. when I first put it on the reels I went to a field and casted them out tied it off to the goal posts and reeled in I was near casting the length of the pitch with 2 oz leads and 6000 baitrunners on 10 foot rods I would happily use the 12lb tiger line but that might get moaned about.1 point -
Diawa floorit fluoro mainlines
elmoputney reacted to Carpbell_ll for a topic
Tiger line never had a problem with it, PB Products do a fluro that is claimed to be way ahead of anything else, going by the price i doubt many will be using it. 400M for 60 notes. https://anglersworld.ie/products/pb-products-ghost-dragonfly-fluorocarbon1 point -
Diawa floorit fluoro mainlines
elmoputney reacted to B B for a topic
Iv used X line and found it wiry and also didn’t enjoy using it one bit.... but on a small water I fished that was 3-4 ft deep and with a family of swans it was invaluable and helped put two low 20’s on the bank. It casts better with a bigger spool on your reel and gets dirty but a wet wipe used now and then fixes that on your trip, after seeing how the line gets dirty I got into the habit of cleaning all my lines I use. Looking forward to hearing how you get on with the feeder pole it would have perfect on that small water.1 point -
Diawa floorit fluoro mainlines
elmoputney reacted to Golden Paws for a topic
Mono's are hygroscopic which mean's they absorb and take on water. Fluoro's aren't but being soaked in warmish water will probably make it more manageable and is probably worth doing once you have pre-stretched it.1 point -
Diawa floorit fluoro mainlines
elmoputney reacted to Golden Paws for a topic
Fluoro is great for sinking (double the density of water), near invisible, pretty tough and it isn't affected by sunlight degradation like mono's. Unfortunately when you have some great plus points, like most things in life, there's always a downside. I used X line for a while but hated it so much I gave the rest of the bulk spool to a mate. After several years I decided to try fluoro again and bought some Berkley CF600 after seeing some good reviews. I loaded it on the spools and the stuff was literally leaping off as I was winding it on. First time out I was casting out 40 yards to the far bank on a long narrow lake and had a wind knot in the middle and created a huge bird-nest. The stuff is stiffer and more wiry than mono's and you're not going to cast it as far. (Understatement!) However, I have still got it on my (spare shallow) spool and I have been using it but you have to treat it with a bit more thought than mono's. The first thing is to stretch it before use as this increases it's handling and it will wind on a lot better. Then before you cast out the first good few trips, walk out your casting distance and stretch it again and it should behave much better. I've still got it on my reels as I haven't fished long distance for quite a while and am fairly happy with it. I did look at the Daiwa and Gardner and both seem to be OK and would happily use any of them, even X line as at the time I probably didn't look into it enough and treat them differently to mono's.1 point -
Dogs and fishing
elmoputney reacted to B B for a topic
1 point -
Canal Pre Baiting
Pete Springate's Guns reacted to ouchthathurt for a topic
I love getting on the canals, always approaching them with the same basic game plan mate. firstly, location is the most obvious thing, however it's surprising how often it is skipped over. Often, canal carp are not as pressured as their lake brethren, so can be easier to see and pin down. I would start with a prebaiting campaign. But with the current weather, I would probably lay off for a few weeks until the milder weather comes around. Although canal carp are more active and feed in colder temperatures than lake carp in my experience, they will still slow down and feed a lot less in the winter. My start would be with hemp/particle/corn/pellet with a few boilies added. Keep it going in initially to attract all species. As much as I want to stop other species in their tracks, I won't go straight for boilies until I know carp are visiting regularly. Flowing water carp (river/canal) tend to be very nomadic, especially in stretches where there are little in the way of cover or features to hold them, this is where I would attempt to create a reason for them to visit a chosen spot time and again using bait. Once I was happy I knew carp were hitting the spot regularly, I would do away with pellet and corn etc and wean them into boilies to deter the nuisance species and target the carp better. Although flowing water carp are less pressured, they can be spooky - catching one carp off a prebaited spot can spook the others and they often drift away, so I try get as many spots going as possible. Then I can leapfrog the carp on the move and be set up waiting as they reach my next spot. Good thing about most canals is you can follow the carp along the bank. More of my successes come from sections with lots of features and bushes etc, boats and marinas are good places to try. Get a mountain bike and some polaroids and go searching. Carp are always gonna drift from one section to another, unless something holds them. Lock gates, weir pools etc. I find once i am on fish, they're catchable, the trick is to find them first. Find them, feed them, catch them... Rigs wise, I tend not to get too riggy anyway, I believe location and quality bait is key anywhere, especially on a canal or river. Long casting is generally not an issue, so I tend to go for strong and simple gear. My main line is .35mm Shimano technium, (got 20lb b/s on testing it myself) with leadclips or inlines as a lead arrangement. Hooklinks are often just mono or a tough coated braid. Simple knotless knot to a strong size 4 hook. I'm an avid leadcore user, (although if I use leadcore, then I use helicopter rigs as I think they’re safer) although I'll also use rigtube as happily. I want something tough and abrasion resistant, not all techy and complicated. If bottom debris and crayfish are an issue, then pop ups would be my choice, if I can present a bottom bait without any problems, then I'd go for that first. Backleading to prevent boats/kayakers etc catching my lines is important as well as keeping my gear on the path clear so walkers/cyclists don't run it down! I like to keep light and mobile so I can keep moving onto fish if my present spot isn't producing, before finding a night spot in a quiet stretch to do an overnighter. - this I bait regularly to keep the carp interested. Somewhere a little less snaggy and more open for fish safety reasons after dark. It's ok fishing locked up in the weedy/snaggy bits in the day where you can be on it and in control quickly but at night, I want it a bit more risk free where a run off a clutch won't cause issues. The carp will leave the snags and explore more at night anyway, so you make the best of both worlds. Finally, if you can rake the swims of crud and bait them, then try it - if all you do is clear a load of litter off the canal bed, then it's a good thing! I'd try get as much out as possible, anglers are guardians of our environment, rubbish is an eyesore and anglers tend to get blamed - more flak we could all do without, even if we are blameless. Clear the spots of the rubbish and hope the carp gods will smile on you. Canals and rivers are tricky venues, but I love them. They fish through the winter too usually, I've got a little canal lined up for the winter months. Just wish I could get there this winter! oh and check out “canal carping” book by rob maylin and friends, i just picked up a copy for under a tenner online. Good luck mate.1 point -
Dogs and fishing
elmoputney reacted to ... for a topic
1 point