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Anti Eject rig


elmoputney

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Hi guys 

I got thinking last night about rigs and wondering about reversing the standard combi type coated braid hooklink, I've kind of come to the conclusion of using  the coated braid section to create a D and have a stiff section a couple of inches after the eye then stripping the coating off to have a suppleish semi stiff boom section with a few inches of coating left to stiffen the loop end and keep it tangle free with the usual anti tangle sleeve, I just thought most rigs we seem to use nowadays have a stiff boom section so this may be different to what a modern day carp is used to, I was primarily trying to make an easy snowman rig and I figured this may make it tough for the carp to eject 

Also this one should be PVA friendly which should help keep it tangle free 

Just an idea feel free to have an opinion on it as I am really just guessing at present  :)

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No harm in giving it a go buddy but I think you're bamboozling yourself.

2 hours ago, elmoputney said:

I was primarily trying to make an easy snowman rig

Imo your multi would do the job perfectly well and you can't get much easier than that👍

Rigs, within reason, aint that important imo. It's putting them in front of feeding fish that is the make-or-break factor.

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I just quite enjoy thinking about rigs  tbh,I am pretty certain some will be working more effectively than others I still believe we get done a lot more than we think,however I noticed a small flaw in this one when I water tested it and that is I don't think the uncoated braid would sit very nicely on the bottom as it seemed to rest above it and may just end up looking like a bird's nest after a few bream have wafted past it could use a few small blobs of putty but you may be right the multi is probably more suitable 

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  • 2 weeks later...
9 hours ago, elmoputney said:

I couldn't keep away from thinking anti eject so I've gone for a reverse combi rig I've tried a few different patterns but think I like the chod hook middle one best it sits best in the water I think 

IMG_20190909_000239.jpg

Does anyone else think this would be better with.a combi link swivel to connect,I think it may just turn better so I've ordered some 🤔

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3 minutes ago, yonny said:

To connect the stiff to the soft?

I don't think it matters that much buddy. Both with and without a swivel will work well.

Yes for exactly that job, I was looking at them in the tank last night and couldn't help feeling the fish has to approach it right to get a take where the swivel may just help turn it faster I think and may help with the hooking 

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8 minutes ago, framey said:

You need to use a proper free rolling swivels that work under water, not sure how many actually do tbh

i wouldn’t look too deeply into it if you have enough supple section it should spin and face the right way 

I actually have sucked some rigs up myself and they do work

Yeah I think it would spin and work ok tbh but I just wonder if it would swivel better with a swivel 😀

 

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28 minutes ago, yonny said:

I only use fluoro for weed-free waters, it's never going to be as strong and durable as a decent braid. For St Ives I'd not go near it elmo.

I am starting to agree with that comment I think,tonight will be simple rig tying, I was listening to the Nash tackle podcast last night and mark voosen said we tend to overcomplicate rigs and length is one of the more important things he said the longer the rig the more pick ups but the shorter it is more runs (Its just finding the sweet spot in the middle that does the best of both )  :)

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20 minutes ago, elmoputney said:

we tend to overcomplicate rigs

I agree.

21 minutes ago, elmoputney said:

the longer the rig the more pick ups but the shorter it is more runs

I disagree, too much of a sweeping statement for me that is. Rig length should be chosen to perform on a given substrate - to suit the rig and the angling situation.

22 minutes ago, elmoputney said:

mark voosen said

For every known angler that tells us one thing there is another known angler telling us something completely different. I wouldn't take any of it as gospel mate.

I try to let the carp teach me what I need to know. A few hours watching the fish you're trying to catch will tell you more than any known angler can.

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54 minutes ago, yonny said:

I agree.

I disagree, too much of a sweeping statement for me that is. Rig length should be chosen to perform on a given substrate - to suit the rig and the angling situation.

For every known angler that tells us one thing there is another known angler telling us something completely different. I wouldn't take any of it as gospel mate.

I try to let the carp teach me what I need to know. A few hours watching the fish you're trying to catch will tell you more than any known angler can.

He did go into more detail that was mainly the bullet point,and he found this after doing underwater filming for a couple of years it was quite interesting tbh,while I agree that you have to use the right set up for the right situation, I still think learning from others can help you think develop your own angling, you can learn a lot from listening to other people's opinions and trying them yourself OR manipulating into your situation (which is generally what I do with the info I like to think),even if afterwards you think it was a waste if time you've still learnt it was a waste of time rather than wondering about it,

Maybe now I've gone fill circle and realised simple is best :)

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1 minute ago, elmoputney said:

I am pulling it beyond its life :) using a pair of pulling tools 

but tbh I don't think I am putting majorly excessive load on , I know I wouldn't be breaking braid in the same strength bs 

I’ve never gone that far 

I just snug them down until it looks like it kind of clicks difficult to explain but you can see it if you look

have you tried going twice through the eye? It helps spread the load better on the knot old fashioned way but it worked

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